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list dated 3 February 2012

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Carruades de LafiteF201012×75cl£2,400291-94LessMore
RP: 91-94
2010 Carruades de Lafite: Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot and a dollop of Cabernet Franc, the beautiful 2010 Carruades de Lafite may turn out to be one of the finest yet produced (although I still have a weakness for the brilliant 2003, which is drinking beautifully at present). Notes of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, licorice, herbs and cedar are all present in this full-bodied, opulent, stunning second wine. It will be drinkable upon release and should last for 20 or more years.
Duhart MilonF201012×75cl£8001094-96LessMore
RP: 94-96
2010: This large estate (190 acres) has been on a qualitative rise for nearly a decade. A classic Pauillac, the opaque purple-colored 2010, a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, reveals beautiful notes of creme de cassis, licorice, tobacco leaf and forest floor. Bigger and more muscular than most previous vintages, this full-bodied Pauillac possesses stunning density as well as intensity. Atypically high in alcohol for this property, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years.

JR: 17
73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot. Extremely deep crimson. Sweet pruney start – looks much more intense than Carruades, presumably because of all the Cabernet. Very introvert; not much nose. Juicy, fresh and liquorice – lots of energy. Lots of freshness. Dry finish. Very subtle but with extremely marked tannins. Just a little rugged. But the fruit is wonderfully concentrated…

Decanter: 18
Concentrated black fruits, powerful yet lifted, structured and long term elegance, a great Duhart. Drink 2020-35.

Neil Martin: 92-94
A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon (slightly less than 2009) and 27% Merlot, cropped between 24th September and 12th October, the Duhart has a well-defined, classic Cabernet bouquet with blackberry, smoke and a touch of cigar box. Quite Zen-like and introspective in a way but very fine delineation and class. The palate is very well balanced with very ripe Cabernet fruit, just a touch of spice and dried herbs coming through, very Duhart, very Pauillac in style with a slightly austere Pauillac finish that I really appreciate. I probably prefer this to the 2009. Excellent. Drink 2017-2030+ Tasted March 2011.
Eglise Clinet20106×75cl£1,640296-100LessMore
RP: 96-100
2010: Proprietor Denis Durantou has again produced one of Bordeaux’s most profound wines, which seems to be happening routinely at this tiny estate on the Pomerol plateau. Opaque purple to the rim, with a wonderfully sweet nose of mulberry and black fruit, hints of mocha and caramel, and some subtle background oak, the 2010 is very expansive, multi-dimensional, with stunning purity, richness and equilibrium. The finish is very long, with significant tannins, but they are beautifully integrated. This is a massive L’Eglise Clinet that will need 8-10 years of cellaring at the very minimum, and should keep for 40+ years.

JR: 18
‘In 2009 it was easier to present primeur samples.’ Very dark and glowing crimson. Savoury and dense and lively. Lip smacking. Lots of sweetness and nerve. Well done! A very firm thread and great integrity. Lovely texture. Much more sweetness than I would expect for a 2010. Racy and charming but with real density. ‘The most complicated thing was to decide how many pumpovers to do each day. We reduced the number and the length of the macerations. Alcoholic fermentation was at less than 28°C. Because we were so afraid to extract tannins we couldn’t age in barrels.’

Decanter: 18.5
Undoubted power and concentration. Rich, dense and profound but reserved. Layered fruit on the palate. Bigger structure than ‘09 although a touch awkward at this youthful stage. Drink 2020-2040.
Grand Puy Lacoste201012×75cl£6001093-96LessMore
RP: 92-94
2010: One of the finest Cantenac Browns made in the last half century, the 2010 may be even more impressive than the 2009. Sweet, fat notes of blackberries, forest floor and earth emerge from this inky/purple-colored beauty. The tannins are slightly more serious and elevated than in the 2009, but the big, bold, full-bodied 2010 represents a remarkable turn around for this estate, which has now produced three straight top-flight vintages. It should drink well for 25-35 years.

JR: 17
Dramatically intense colour. But both samples I tried were a little bit tired. Sweet start but without great intensity on the mid palate. Very chewy end. Just a bit awkward and unfocused. Correct balance though with good Pauillac character. I’m just a little worried about the freshness of samples... (Stupidly, I had the chance to re-taste this chez Dourthe but was dashing for a plane and missed both it and its stablemate Haut-Batailley which I was finally able to tasted chez Bibendum 4 May). I may well have underestimated this usually very reliable wine.)
Tasted open 4 May: Very deep purple. Notably fresh and lifted. Not the most concentrated 2010 and drier than some but butterly echt and not remotely manipulated. I suspect it needs time for its hidden depths to emerge. 17.5 Drink 20-32.
Haut BrionF201012×75cl£6,900198-100LessMore
RP: 98-100
2010 Haut-Brion: Following a harvest that finished on October 10, Haut-Brion produced a 2010 that should turn out to be one of its all-time greats ... an amazing feat given what they have accomplished over recent vintages. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.6% alcohol, the 2010 boasts an opaque purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of scorched earth/burning embers, blueberries, black currant liqueur and crushed rocks. Full and opulent with nobility, finesse, purity and elegance, this amazing effort possesses extraordinary levels of extract as well as formidable, but sweet, well-integrated tannins. It requires 8-10 years of cellaring and should drink well for 50+ years.

JR: 18
23% Merlot, 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. 7,800 cases, not 10,000+ as in 2009. 42% grand vin (compared with 57% in 2009). Full, opulent nose in which the classic Haut-Brion aroma is well masked by lots of slightly austere fruit. Very fine tannins – very drying finish. An extremely slow burner. Much drier than La Mission, and at the moment not desperately expressive. Its lips are pursed at the moment, and so are mine tasting it. Unusual to come across such a long-term wine even here. This may not make a massive impact en primeur because it is keeping so much in reserve. I think it will eventually make a great wine but it’s surly at the moment.

Decanter: 19.5
Stunning aromas of beautifully concentrated red fruits, already expressive, even exuberant, a taffeta-like finesse hides great strength for the long term. Drink 2020-45.

Neil Martin: 96-98
A blend of 23% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, this has a quintessential Haut-Brion nose with that trait of fresh black olives defining the nose straight out of the blocks. It is a little less opulent than La Mission but with slightly better clarity at this stage. The palate displays very fine, succulent tannins and like the La Mission there is a Pauillac-like personality thanks to the graphite imparted by the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderful definition towards the finish. This is a superb Haut-Brion. Tasted March 2011.
Lafite RothschildF201012×75cl£8,900298-100LessMore
RP: 98-100
2010 Lafite Rothschild: This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years.

JR: 18.5
Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy.
Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished – so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish.

Decanter: 20
Fabulous nose of wild violets, wonderful lissom texture backed by aristocratic firmness, a totally captivating wine for the long term. Drink 2020-50.

Neil Martin: 95-97
The 2010 is a blend of 87.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12.8% Merlot, cropped between 24th September until 13th October, delivering 13.48% alcohol at pH 3.82. Whereas the 2009 Lafite was an immediate “wow”, this is far more introspective and broody, particular coming directly after Latour. Deep, dusky dark berried fruit, a touch of cedar and pencil box. Good definition but not as expressive or as vigorous as I was expected. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fine but structure tannins, masculine in style, understated compared to Latour. I take a little sip (pourquoi pas?) and there is another annexe of dark cherry and a touch of boysenberry. Hints of cedar and spice towards the dry, tannic finish. This is a Lafite that will grow during its élevage. Drink 2020- Tasted March 2011.
Lafite RothschildF20106×75cl£4,500498-100LessMore
RP: 98-100
2010 Lafite Rothschild: This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years.

JR: 18.5
Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy.
Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished – so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish.

Decanter: 20
Fabulous nose of wild violets, wonderful lissom texture backed by aristocratic firmness, a totally captivating wine for the long term. Drink 2020-50.

Neil Martin: 95-97
The 2010 is a blend of 87.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12.8% Merlot, cropped between 24th September until 13th October, delivering 13.48% alcohol at pH 3.82. Whereas the 2009 Lafite was an immediate “wow”, this is far more introspective and broody, particular coming directly after Latour. Deep, dusky dark berried fruit, a touch of cedar and pencil box. Good definition but not as expressive or as vigorous as I was expected. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fine but structure tannins, masculine in style, understated compared to Latour. I take a little sip (pourquoi pas?) and there is another annexe of dark cherry and a touch of boysenberry. Hints of cedar and spice towards the dry, tannic finish. This is a Lafite that will grow during its élevage. Drink 2020- Tasted March 2011.
LatourF201012×75cl£10,500198-100LessMore
It’s too early to know for sure, but the 2010 Latour appears to be a huge and massive Pauillac fruit bomb from this property. With 14.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and .5% Cabernet Franc, director Frederic Engerer told me it is unlike any other wine made at this estate. Possessing abundant amounts of everything, it even eclipses the 2009 in terms of power with a lower pH and higher total acidity. Representing only 36% of the production (making it even more difficult to find than usual, as this is the smallest of the Medoc first growths), it possesses an opaque black/purple color along with an extraordinary perfume of spring flowers, blueberry, blackberry and cassis liqueurs and hints of white chocolate as well as earth intermixed with vague charcoal and truffle-like components. With unreal concentration, full-bodied power, and a precision, freshness and refined level of tannins that are something to behold, this remarkable offering is one of my personal favorites of the vintage. It will undoubtedly shut down after bottling and enjoy 50-60 years of longevity.
Le Petit MoutonF20106×75cl£650890-93LessMore
RP: 90-93
2010 Le Petit Mouton: A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot, this may be finest second wine Mouton Rothschild has yet produced. The selection process is unquestionably severe, and the 2010 Le Petit Mouton is even higher in alcohol than the grand vin. Abundant cassis, supple tannins and more near-term pleasure can be found in this full-bodied, rich, impressively endowed effort. Enjoy it over the next 10-15 years.
Leoville LascasesF201012×75cl£2,000595-98LessMore
RP: 95-98
2010 Leoville Las Cases: As one would expect, this is a powerful, concentrated wine with 13.7% natural alcohol (compared to 2005’s 13.2%). The pH is quite normal at 3.56, and its relatively high total acidity gives it a classic, fresh, yet backward style. Given how long vintages such as 1982, 1986, and I suspect, 2000 are taking to reach maturity, prospective purchasers of this wine should easily invest in a decade of cellaring, although I suspect it will be closer to 15 or more years before it reveals secondary nuances. A good 40- to 50-year wine, it is a dense purple, full-bodied style of Las Cases, with classic sweet kirsch, graphite and black currant fruit as well as hints of new saddle leather and subtle oak. Backward, layered and multi-dimensional, the wine is stunningly rich, but brooding. Forget it at least until 2020 or later.

JR: 17.5
Excellent deep crimson. Very introvert and very dry. Super-sweet start and initially seems much rounder and less obdurate than usual. Though those dry tannins certainly creep up on you at the end! Some silkiness and glorying in the special ripeness of the Cabernet in this wine. Very dry end. Not that long funnily enough. A certain transparency that is not usually there.

Decanter: 19.5
Stunning concentration of fruit, precision and purity, a great vineyard expression and a totally great wine in the most simple sense of the term. Drink 2025-50.

Neil Martin: 96-98
Cropped at 36.7hl/ha, the Leoville Las-Cases is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, offering 13.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.56. It will be raised in 75% new oak. The nose is very intense with notes of blackberry, cassis, tobacco and a touch of black truffle, all very well defined and perhaps less generous, but more cerebral than the 2009. The palate is full-bodied with exceptionally silky smooth tannins, wonderful harmony and sense of beguiling composure and completeness. The finish is tannic, driven by the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. I expect this Las-Cases to close down for a few years...it will need time to mellow and reach its drinking plateau. Drink 2025- Tasted March 2011.
Leoville Poyferre201012×75cl£975395-98LessMore
RP: 95-98
2010: One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years.

JR: 17.5

Very concentrated and luscious looking. Exceptionally deep crimson. Very fine and sophisticated on the nose. Both concentration and lift but then perhaps just a bit too concentrated on the palate? Certainly very attention grabbing with lots of very ripe, very dry fruit. Lustrous. With some welcoming appeal. Pure, luscious Médoc Cabernet. Very long and vibrant.

Decanter: 18.5
Fine extraction of black fruits, both richer and more tannic than the Barton, very good ripeness for long ageing. Drink 2020-40.

Neil Martin: 93-95
Tasted at the chateau and twice at the UGC, the Leoville Poyferre is a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, a pH of 3.7 and alcohol at 14%. It has a spellbinding, extraordinarily pure bouquet that in an obtuse way reminds me of a Romanee St. Vivant. So much panache. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, one of the most sensual of all the 2010s that I have tasted. Seamless cashmere texture towards the finish with dark cherries, blueberry and crème de cassis all wrapped up in a veil of vanilla. Superb. Drink 2015- Tasted April 2011.
Les Ormes de Pez201012×75cl£2201587-90LessMore
RP: 87-90
This dense purple-colored 2010 exhibits dark raspberry and blueberry fruit notes, less power and structure than its neighbor De Pez, but more finesse, elegance and fruit forwardness. This impressively endowed effort should drink nicely for 10-15 years.

JR: 17
Healthy crimson. Ripe and robust. Big and bold without much care for seduction. Very solid but it will take a lot of time to settle down.

Neil Martin: 92-94
Tasted at Lynch-Bages and the UGC, the vineyard suffered some hail damage and some parcels lost as much as 30-40% of the crop and the yield which is 44hl/ha. The Les Ormes de Pez is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot raised in 45% new oak. It has a very sensual, very pure bouquet with dark cherries, boysenberry, wild hedgerow, mint and a touch of vanilla, much more feminine than the wines of the past. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins on the entry, very good ripeness here and the Cabernet Sauvignon is really in harmony with the ripe Merlot. Voluminous and silky smooth towards the finish, this is an outstanding Les Ormes de Pez. Drink 2015- Tasted March 2011.
Lynch BagesF201012×75cl£1,150595-97LessMore
Over the last three vintages, Lynch Bages has returned with a vengeance after somewhat listless performances following their brilliant duo of 1989 and 1990. Much of the credit for this must go to Jean-Charles Cazes who has taken over for his father, Jean-Michel, one of the greatest ambassadors Bordeaux has ever had. The 2010 blew me away on each occasion I tasted it during my two week sojourn in Bordeaux. Tannic and concentrated, this huge Pauillac boasts an inky/purple color as well as impressive notes of creme de cassis, smoke, graphite and spring flowers. This dense, seriously endowed, monstrous Lynch Bages is reminiscent of some of the wines made at this estate in the 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. It will require 4-5 years of cellaring and should be drinkable for 3-4 decades.
Pichon BaronF201012×75cl£1,4251097-99LessMore
Jancis:
Decanter:
Neal Martin:
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Parker review:
2010: A prodigious, blockbuster effort from Pichon Longueville Baron, the 2010 is reminiscent of this estate’s titanic offerings in 1989 and 1990, but may be even greater with 30 years of longevity. Kudos to proprietor AXA and general director Christian Seeley. It was absolutely compelling on each of the three times I tasted it. Black/purple-colored with super concentration and richness as well as full body, it offers an awesome display of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, camphor and spring flowers. Stunningly pure and unctuously textured with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this superstar of the vintage is definitely a wine to purchase as a future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.
Pontet CanetF201012×75cl£1,0501096-100LessMore
RP: 96-100
2010: Pontet-Canet’s 2010 harvest took place between September 29 and October 17 (this vineyard is one of the few in Bordeaux that is fully certified as biodynamic) and the final blend was 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol. A remarkable, full-bodied effort (as was the estate’s 2009 and 2008), like so many recent vintages from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, it is of first-growth quality (some may even argue that it eclipses several first-growths). Dense purple to the rim, it offers classic notes of creme de cassis, graphite, subtle smoke and spring flowers. Multidimensional with massive concentration as well as vivid purity, precision and freshness, this is another astonishing effort from an obsessive/compulsive proprietor who is doing everything right. On the downside, this 2010 will require a decade of cellaring and should evolve for 50+ years. It will be fascinating to drink it side by side with the 2009 and 2008.

JR: 17.5
Dense, rich and minty on the nose with real density. Lots of luscious chew. This is clearly from a great vintage with huge vivacity. Heavy undertow. Long. Minerals and firm. Racy.

Decanter: 18.5
Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30.

Neil Martin: 93-95
The Pontet Canet has a very pure bouquet that you could almost compare to a Burgundy. Blackberry, dark cherries, a touch of mint and graphite, exceptionally well defined, flowering with 3-4 minutes in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with very fine but firm, tensile tannins, perhaps even more purity than the 2009, not a million miles away (both geographically and stylistically) from Mouton-Rothschild. The finish is very smooth with a sorbet-like freshness, firm grip, long in the mouth towards the finish with some crème de cassis and blueberry towards the finish. The Merlot content lends this a little more opulence than some of the other Pauillac 2010s. There is a lot of volume to this wine, really fills the mouth with a sweet, sensual finish, but keep find myself yearning for more Cabernet Sauvignon . Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March 2011
Suduiraut201012×75cl£5001094-96LessMore
The Chateau Suduiraut has a comparatively rich, botrytized bouquet with dried honey, pineapple and a touch of Seville orange marmalade, with exquisite definition and focus. The palate is well-balanced, with a viscous texture and a good level of botrytis, demonstrating fine minerality and tautness. Dried mango, quince and spice all interlace the focused finish, which is long in the mouth. Tasted against its peers, this has a higher level of intensity and focus. A superb follow-up to the sensational 2009
Tourelles de Longueville201012×75cl£3192590-93LessMore
Wine Spectator: 90-93
Jancis Robinson: 16.5

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