Fine wines | Ditton Wine Traders

list dated 3 February 2012

Wine	Vintage	Case size	Price/case	Cases	Parker Score
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Bordeaux
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Amiral de Beychevelle	2008	12×75cl	£200	10	–
(Notes not available)
Angelus	2000	12×75cl	£2,900	1	97
What can you say about Hubert de Bouard and Angelus? Each year they seem to turn out one great wine after another, and the 2000 showed its merit in two different tastings. A wine of great intensity, bluish/black, with a big, sweet kiss of graphite, crushed rocks, blueberry, spring floral garden and blackberry liqueur, unctuously textured as well as pure, dense, and stunningly rich, this full-bodied wine can be drunk now or cellared for another 25-30 years.
Angelus	2009	12×75cl	£2,300	10	96-100
I tasted this three separate times, and on two occasions I thought it had the potential to be a perfect wine. The home estate of Hubert de Bouard, this 62+ acre vineyard produced a 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc blend in 2009, with yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare, and a whopping alcohol degree of 14.5%. Of course, the latter component is not even noticeable, as that is one of the erroneous myths about high alcohol in some 2009 Bordeaux. It just doesn’t show, thanks to the wine’s extraordinary concentration. This is a fabulous wine, with that tell-tale, dense, inky blue color that Angelus always seems to achieve. It displays an extraordinary nose of acacia flowers (or is it violets?) intermixed with blueberry liqueur, black raspberries, cassis, licorice, incense, and graphite. Full-bodied, viscous, with great intensity , vibrancy, and transparency, this is one of the all-time great wines from Angelus and a 21st century version of their 1989 and 1990. It should drink well for 20+ years – at the very minimum. (Tasted three times.)
Armailhac	2009	12×75cl	£315	5	90-93
This may be the finest d’Armailhac I have ever tasted. Made in a textured, full-bodied, sumptuous style, it is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Merlot, and the balance primarily Cabernet Franc with a tiny dosage of Petit Verdot. It exhibits a deep ruby/purple hue along with floral, red and black currant, cedar, and spice characteristics. Deep, medium to full-bodied, and impressively pure as well as long, it should drink well for 25 years. (Tasted three times.)
Ausone	2003	12×75cl	£11,200	1	100
The 2003 Ausone is off the charts in terms of richness. While I gave a 3-digit score to the 2000, I think this profoundly concentrated wine may be even more sublime and exotic. Its inky/blue/purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of flowers, crushed rocks, sweet raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and God knows what else. The impression is one of extraordinary richness and purity, and a multilayered texture yet a surreal lightness as well as laser-like precision. This exquisite offering must be tasted to be believed. Incredibly young, it will undoubtedly close down over the next few years, re-emerging after 15-20 years. It should last for 70-100 years. It is a wine for anthology! No one in Bordeaux has made greater progress in taming the extraordinary potential of this noble terroir than Alain Vauthier, an obsessed perfectionist if there ever was one. He has instituted a Draconian selection at this tiny estate, both in the vineyard and the cellar, and the second wine, Chapelle d’Ausone, has also become one of the region’s finest wines. Prospective purchasers should be aware that Ausone requires 10-20 years of cellaring before it approaches maturity.
Bahans Haut Brion	2001	12×75cl	£680	10	88
Always one of Bordeaux’s finest second wines, the 2001 Bahans-Haut-Brion exhibits a dark plum/ruby color as well as a sweet nose of cedar, earth, and red and black currants. Medium-bodied, with a supple texture, fine purity, and admirable length, it will drink well for 5-8 years.
Blanc de Lynch Bages	2009	12×75cl	£230	10	–
(Notes not available)
Calon Segur	2007	12×75cl	£410	2	–
(Notes not available)
Capbern Gasqueton	2009	12×75cl	£140	5	85-87
Parker doesn’t particularly like this. Jancis Robinson however loves it and scores it 17.5: From the Calon-Ségur stable and very impressive! Blueish purple crimson. Very juicy and meaty. Lively fruit. Polished. Great vitality. Very much St-Estèphe on the finish. Minerals. But a quite amazing amount of sweetness on the front palate. Really wonderful expression of St-Estèphe 2009 – though not of St-Estèphe in most vintages. VGV
Carruades de Lafite F	2006	3×300cl	£3,300	1	–
(Notes not available)
Carruades de Lafite F	2006	12×75cl	£3,300	1	–
(Notes not available)
Carruades de Lafite F	2008	12×75cl	£2,800	1	91-93
The 2008 Carruades de Lafite, made from yields of 46 hectoliters per hectare, is a blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot, and 1% Cabernet Franc. Revealing an inky/ruby/purple color that is slightly less dense than the grand vin’s, it offers up beautiful aromas of graphite, smoke, black currants, and cedar. Very sexy in the fleshy style of the 2003, it is a succulent, hedonistic turn-on. Moreover, given the freshness and acid profile, it should drink well for 15-20 years. Interestingly, Lafite Rothschild’s manager, Charles Chevalier, told me there was not much flavor in the grapes in mid-September, but a month later, after four weeks of extraordinary weather, they believed something profound may have happened given the flavor development. Again, the historically long period between flowering and harvest, and very low yields are part of the secret to the great success of wines such as this.
Carruades de Lafite F	2009	12×75cl	£2,800	10	92-94
The best Carruades de Lafite I have ever tasted is the 2009. Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, 55% of the crop was included in this second wine. It is an atypically powerful Carruades with slightly higher alcohol than usual as well as considerable structure. There are plenty of creme de cassis and crushed rock notes as well as a subtle wood component, and super intensity and lushness. It is an amazing effort! For technocrats, Lafite began its harvest on September 23 and finished on October 8. (Tasted once.)
Carruades de Lafite F EP	2010	12×75cl	£2,400	2	91-94
RP: 91-94 2010 Carruades de Lafite: Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot and a dollop of Cabernet Franc, the beautiful 2010 Carruades de Lafite may turn out to be one of the finest yet produced (although I still have a weakness for the brilliant 2003, which is drinking beautifully at present). Notes of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, licorice, herbs and cedar are all present in this full-bodied, opulent, stunning second wine. It will be drinkable upon release and should last for 20 or more years.
Cheval Blanc F	1982	12×75cl	£7,500	1	92
During its first 10-12 years of life, this was a perfect wine, but it now seems to be in a stage where the fruit is still present, but the previous exuberance and intensity have faded slightly. There is plenty of amber at the edge, and this medium to full-bodied wine shows notes of menthol, cedar, spice box, plums, and black cherries. Owners of 750 ml bottles should plan on consuming it over the next 4-6 years. Magnums should be less evolved, and merit a score 4 to 6 points higher.Release price: ($300.00/case)
Clinet	2009	12×75cl	£1,175	1	97-100
The greatest Clinet since the incredible duo produced by the late Jean-Michel Arcaute in 1989 and 1990, the 2009 (tasted on 4 separate occasions) was off the charts in terms of quality and potential. Yields of 47 hectoliters per hectare were not particularly low, and the fruit used in the final blend (87% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon; 14% natural alcohol) was all harvested between September 21 and October 7. The wine boasts an opaque black/purple color in addition to a gorgeous bouquet of truffles, charcoal, asphalt, blackberries, blueberries, and meaty, smoky notes. This dense, unctuously-textured Pomerol is built like a skyscraper with multiple layers, sweet tannins, and enormous concentration as well as length. The good news is there will be 4,000 cases of this modern day legend in the making. It should drink well for 30-35 years. While it’s hard to eclipse a 100-point wine (1989), the 2009 appears to be the finest Clinet has ever made. (Tasted four times.)
Cos d’Estournel	2003	12×75cl	£1,600	5	98
The prodigious, fantastic 2003 Cos d’Estournel is a candidate for “wine of the vintage.”� A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon (unusually high for this chateau), 30% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 17,500 cases were produced from low yields. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by a compelling perfume of black fruits, subtle smoke, pain grille, incense, and flowers. With extraordinary richness, full body, and remarkable freshness, elegance, and persistence, this is one of the finest wines ever made by this estate. The good news is that it will be drinkable at a young age yet evolve for three decades or more. Kudos to winemaker Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier.
Cos d’Estournel	2004	12×75cl	£830	1	92
A beautiful example of the vintage, proprietor Michel Reybier and his top-notch winemaker, Jean-Guillaume Prats, have fashioned an exceptional wine displaying a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of boysenberries, black currants, cherries, pain grille, roasted herbs, and licorice. Medium-bodied with impressive density for the vintage, sweet tannin, and outstanding richness and length, it should be at its finest between 2009 and 2020+. Also tasted: 2004 Les Pagodes de Cos (87)
Cos d’Estournel	2007	12×75cl	£730	10	90
A beautiful wine with 13.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of cassis, incense, charcoal, and subtle oak, round, generously endowed flavors, medium to full body, silky tannin, and surprising depth and length. It can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years.
Cos d’Estournel	2009	12×75cl	£2,550	5	98-100
The 2009 Cos d’Estournel is one of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted ... in the world! An extraordinary effort I tasted on two separate occasions, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with a dollop of Cabernet Franc has a whopping 14.5% alcohol, but a remarkably normal pH of 3.69. Kudos to Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier for this amazing wine made from yields of 33 hectoliters per hectare. It will be a legendary claret that should last for 50-60 years. A black/purple color is accompanied by aromas of graphite, ink, creme de cassis, blackberries, cedar, and incense. Full-bodied and unctuously textured, with an ethereal personality, tons of nuances, and a burgeoning complexity, it is an enormously well-endowed, fresh, perfectly balanced tour de force in winemaking. As mentioned above, it should drink well for 50-60 years. This wine possesses this vintage’s classic characteristics of enormous power, massive fruit, and extraordinary freshness and precision – largely unprecedented, particularly for Cabernet-based wines in the Medoc. (Tasted two times.)
Doisy Daene Blanc	2009	12×75cl	£110	5	–
(Notes not available)
Domaine de Chevalier	2009	12×75cl	£500	5	94-96
The finest wine I have tasted from this estate in my 30+ – year career, the 2009 (64% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, and 6% Petit Verdot) from this hallowed vineyard in Leognan was cropped at 45 hectoliters per hectare and came in at 13% alcohol. It reveals an extraordinary, intense, pure, quintessential Domaine de Chevalier style, including silky tannin, dense plum, black currant, black cherry, floral, and graphite notes, terrific acidity, sweet tannin, and a full-bodied mouthfeel with no weight, but admirable precision and freshness. Consultant Stephane Derenoncourt has coaxed out all the elegance and complexity at this great site. A future legend in the making, this could be the best Domaine de Chevalier produced over the last half century. It should drink well for 35-40 years. (Tasted four times.)
Duhart Milon F	2006	12×75cl	£800	4	92
It is no longer an insider’s secret that the investments made by the Rothschild family (of Lafite) in Duhart Milon are paying big dividends. A shrewd Pauillac lover’s delight, it possesses exceptional quality, yet the price remains fair. This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, only 50% made it into the final blend, displays some of Lafite’s classic notes of lead pencil shavings, cedar, and black currants along with more earthy, roasted herb, and spice box characteristics. Rich, full-bodied, dense, and already approachable, it should evolve easily for two decades. Good value.
Duhart Milon F	2009	12×75cl	£850	5	94-96
2009 may turn out to be among the greatest vintages ever in the Medoc. The 2009 appears to be the finest Duhart Milon yet made. The Rothschild family has invested heavily in this estate over the last 20 years in order to upgrade the quality, and their investments have certainly paid off handsomely. A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, the 2009’s opaque purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of creme de cassis, violets, graphite, and subtle wood. This full-bodied, intense, voluptuously textured, pure, seductive wine seems more open-knit and opulent than the more structured Carruades de Lafite. Nevertheless, the Duhart requires 3-5 years of cellaring, and should drink well for 30+ years. Bravo! (Tasted once.)
Duhart Milon F EP	2010	12×75cl	£800	10	94-96
RP: 94-96 2010: This large estate (190 acres) has been on a qualitative rise for nearly a decade. A classic Pauillac, the opaque purple-colored 2010, a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, reveals beautiful notes of creme de cassis, licorice, tobacco leaf and forest floor. Bigger and more muscular than most previous vintages, this full-bodied Pauillac possesses stunning density as well as intensity. Atypically high in alcohol for this property, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years. JR: 17 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot. Extremely deep crimson. Sweet pruney start – looks much more intense than Carruades, presumably because of all the Cabernet. Very introvert; not much nose. Juicy, fresh and liquorice – lots of energy. Lots of freshness. Dry finish. Very subtle but with extremely marked tannins. Just a little rugged. But the fruit is wonderfully concentrated… Decanter: 18 Concentrated black fruits, powerful yet lifted, structured and long term elegance, a great Duhart. Drink 2020-35. Neil Martin: 92-94 A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon (slightly less than 2009) and 27% Merlot, cropped between 24th September and 12th October, the Duhart has a well-defined, classic Cabernet bouquet with blackberry, smoke and a touch of cigar box. Quite Zen-like and introspective in a way but very fine delineation and class. The palate is very well balanced with very ripe Cabernet fruit, just a touch of spice and dried herbs coming through, very Duhart, very Pauillac in style with a slightly austere Pauillac finish that I really appreciate. I probably prefer this to the 2009. Excellent. Drink 2017-2030+ Tasted March 2011.
Eglise ClinetEP	2010	6×75cl	£1,640	2	96-100
RP: 96-100 2010: Proprietor Denis Durantou has again produced one of Bordeaux’s most profound wines, which seems to be happening routinely at this tiny estate on the Pomerol plateau. Opaque purple to the rim, with a wonderfully sweet nose of mulberry and black fruit, hints of mocha and caramel, and some subtle background oak, the 2010 is very expansive, multi-dimensional, with stunning purity, richness and equilibrium. The finish is very long, with significant tannins, but they are beautifully integrated. This is a massive L’Eglise Clinet that will need 8-10 years of cellaring at the very minimum, and should keep for 40+ years. JR: 18 ‘In 2009 it was easier to present primeur samples.’ Very dark and glowing crimson. Savoury and dense and lively. Lip smacking. Lots of sweetness and nerve. Well done! A very firm thread and great integrity. Lovely texture. Much more sweetness than I would expect for a 2010. Racy and charming but with real density. ‘The most complicated thing was to decide how many pumpovers to do each day. We reduced the number and the length of the macerations. Alcoholic fermentation was at less than 28°C. Because we were so afraid to extract tannins we couldn’t age in barrels.’ Decanter: 18.5 Undoubted power and concentration. Rich, dense and profound but reserved. Layered fruit on the palate. Bigger structure than ‘09 although a touch awkward at this youthful stage. Drink 2020-2040.
Forts de Latour F	2008	12×75cl	£1,640	2	91-93
The second wine seems to have picked up most of the Merlot from the Latour vineyards (31.5% Merlot and 66.5% Cabernet Sauvignon dominate the blend). The 2008 Les Forts de Latour is a forward, pure wine displaying remarkably sweet tannins along with aromas of black currants, forest floor, and a hint of underbrush. Opulent, round, and generous, it should drink well for 15-20 years, possibly longer given the fact that the 1982 Les Forts de Latour is still a beautiful wine, and it’s “only”� 27 years of age!
Grand Puy LacosteEP	2010	12×75cl	£600	10	93-96
RP: 92-94 2010: One of the finest Cantenac Browns made in the last half century, the 2010 may be even more impressive than the 2009. Sweet, fat notes of blackberries, forest floor and earth emerge from this inky/purple-colored beauty. The tannins are slightly more serious and elevated than in the 2009, but the big, bold, full-bodied 2010 represents a remarkable turn around for this estate, which has now produced three straight top-flight vintages. It should drink well for 25-35 years. JR: 17 Dramatically intense colour. But both samples I tried were a little bit tired. Sweet start but without great intensity on the mid palate. Very chewy end. Just a bit awkward and unfocused. Correct balance though with good Pauillac character. I’m just a little worried about the freshness of samples... (Stupidly, I had the chance to re-taste this chez Dourthe but was dashing for a plane and missed both it and its stablemate Haut-Batailley which I was finally able to tasted chez Bibendum 4 May). I may well have underestimated this usually very reliable wine.) Tasted open 4 May: Very deep purple. Notably fresh and lifted. Not the most concentrated 2010 and drier than some but butterly echt and not remotely manipulated. I suspect it needs time for its hidden depths to emerge. 17.5 Drink 20-32.
Gruaud Larose	1982	6×150cl	£3,000	2	98
A massive wine that is clearly of first-growth quality in this vintage, the 1982 Gruaud Larose remains a youngster. A broodingly dense, thick, unctuously textured, inky/plum/garnet/purple color offers up scents of beef blood, steak tartare, cassis, herbs, tobacco, and underbrush. One of the most concentrated wines of the vintage (as well as one of the most concentrated Bordeaux’s I have ever tasted), it is a huge, full-bodied, weighty, rich wine whose tannins are getting silkier and silkier. It appears set for another 30-40 years of life. This behemoth is a singularly profound example of Gruaud Larose that continues to justify its legendary status. Anticipated maturity: now-2050. Release price: ($140.00/case)
Haut Bailly	2009	12×75cl	£925	2	96-98
The greatest Haut-Bailly ever made? One can’t speak enough of the job Veronique Sanders has done in 2009, allied with the owner, the American banker Robert Wilmers, who has given her carte blanche authority. Tiny yields have resulted in the most concentrated Haut-Bailly I have ever tasted. Eclipsing even the 2005, the 2009 (a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc) possesses 13.9% natural alcohol. Dense purple to the rim, it exhibits a precise, nuanced nose of mulberries, black cherries, black currants, graphite, and a singular floral component. A wine of profound intensity and full-bodied power, yet stunningly elegant, and never heavy or massive, it builds incrementally on the palate, and the finish lasts over 45 seconds. Remarkably, there is not a hard edge to be found in this beauty. The Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc were harvested between October 7 and 14, which explains their phenolic maturity. The wine’s extraordinary freshness, elegance, and precision are nearly surreal. This tour de force should age brilliantly for 40+ years. (Tasted two times.)
Haut Brion F	2003	6×75cl	£1,650	2	95
The blockbuster 2003 Haut-Brion (13% alcohol) possesses extremely high tannin, but that component is well-concealed by a cascade of mulberry, blackberry, cherry, and plum-like fruit. There is even a hint of figs under the blue and red fruit spectrum. While broad and ripe with a sweet, glyceral mouthfeel as well as a long, powerful, persistent finish, it retains its elegance and nobility. A wine of both power and finesse, it will benefit from 3-4 years of cellaring, and keep for 25-30.
Haut Brion F	2004	12×75cl	£2,900	3	92
Medium to deep garnet colour. The nose is still a little mute giving a moderate intensity of youthful aromas: ripe plums, cassis, Chinese five spice, moss and a fair amount of cedar. Oak tannins seem to dominate the structure contributing to the taut astringency of the palate yet there is a good amount of ripe berry and earthy fruit plus medium acidity to balance. Long earthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2034. Tasted February 2009.
Haut Brion F	2006	6×75cl	£1,650	10	96
The 2006 Haut-Brion performed even better from bottle than it did from barrel. Sixty-four percent of the production went into this wine, and while it displays the vintage’s powerful tannins and structure, it possesses superb concentration, and the minerality/scorched earth notes of a great Haut-Brion. Medium to full-bodied, with perhaps not quite the fleshiness of the 2005 or 2000, it is built more along the lines of the 1998 and 1996. It is a brilliant effort displaying sensational purity, texture, and length that should be exceptionally long-lived. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2035 .
Haut Brion F	2009	12×75cl	£6,750	3	98-100
There are 10,500 cases of the 2009 Haut-Brion, from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 14% Cabernet Franc. For technicians, the highest ever natural alcohol, 14.3%, was achieved, with a pH of 3.9, which is about the same as the 1989 and 1990, as well as 1959. This is the kind of wine to send chills even up my spine, and I have been tasting here for nearly 30 years. An extraordinary nose of plum, blueberry, raspberry, crushed rock, and that intriguing floral as well as unsmoked cigar tobacco note (a classic sign of this terroir) is followed by a wine of creamy unctuosity reminiscent of 1989, but there is a freshness, vibrancy and precision that is historic and possibly unprecedented. Some graphite emerges as the wine sits in the glass, but the wine is very thick while at the same time precise and elegant. This is the quintessential expression of one of the greatest wine terroirs of the world. To reiterate, the good news is that there are going to be 10,500 cases of Haut-Brion in 2009, which is about 1,500 more cases than the 9,000 produced in 2005. This wine will probably need 7-8 years of cellaring when released and evolve as well as the 1959 has (which is still a perfect wine today), so we’re realistically talking 50-75 years when stored in a cool cellar. (Tasted once.)
Haut Brion F EP	2010	12×75cl	£6,900	1	98-100
RP: 98-100 2010 Haut-Brion: Following a harvest that finished on October 10, Haut-Brion produced a 2010 that should turn out to be one of its all-time greats ... an amazing feat given what they have accomplished over recent vintages. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.6% alcohol, the 2010 boasts an opaque purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of scorched earth/burning embers, blueberries, black currant liqueur and crushed rocks. Full and opulent with nobility, finesse, purity and elegance, this amazing effort possesses extraordinary levels of extract as well as formidable, but sweet, well-integrated tannins. It requires 8-10 years of cellaring and should drink well for 50+ years. JR: 18 23% Merlot, 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. 7,800 cases, not 10,000+ as in 2009. 42% grand vin (compared with 57% in 2009). Full, opulent nose in which the classic Haut-Brion aroma is well masked by lots of slightly austere fruit. Very fine tannins – very drying finish. An extremely slow burner. Much drier than La Mission, and at the moment not desperately expressive. Its lips are pursed at the moment, and so are mine tasting it. Unusual to come across such a long-term wine even here. This may not make a massive impact en primeur because it is keeping so much in reserve. I think it will eventually make a great wine but it’s surly at the moment. Decanter: 19.5 Stunning aromas of beautifully concentrated red fruits, already expressive, even exuberant, a taffeta-like finesse hides great strength for the long term. Drink 2020-45. Neil Martin: 96-98 A blend of 23% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, this has a quintessential Haut-Brion nose with that trait of fresh black olives defining the nose straight out of the blocks. It is a little less opulent than La Mission but with slightly better clarity at this stage. The palate displays very fine, succulent tannins and like the La Mission there is a Pauillac-like personality thanks to the graphite imparted by the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderful definition towards the finish. This is a superb Haut-Brion. Tasted March 2011.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2001	12×75cl	£1,575	3	91
Like its more famous neighbor, Haut-Brion, the 2001 La Mission Haut-Brion has closed down considerably since bottling. A blend of 62% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 3% Cabernet Franc, it possesses an inky/purple color (deeper than Haut-Brion’s) in addition to a tight but promising bouquet of scorched earth, wood, tar, black currants, and a hint of hickory wood. Medium-bodied, firm, muscular, and virile, it is a candidate for long term cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020+.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2004	12×75cl	£1,350	5	90
While La Mission Haut-Brion’s 2004 is not one of this estate’s top successes, it is an outstanding wine, no doubt because of this extraordinary terroir. Deep ruby/purple with notes of lead pencil shavings intermixed with black cherries, cassis, and a hint of scorched earth, medium body, sweet tannin, and a good, but uninspiring finish, this attractive, mid-weight La Mission should age nicely for 15 or more years.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2006	12×75cl	£2,300	2	95
One of the vintage’s top wines is the 2006 La Mission-Haut-Brion. From bottle, it reminds me of the 1998, given its structure and backward style. Dense ruby/purple-colored, it possesses a boatload of tannin, but with coaxing, tobacco leaf, sweet black currant, burning ember, and blue fruit characteristics emerge. While thick and full-bodied, the tannins seem more elevated than I remember from barrel. It is going to be a beauty, but like many of the top 2006s, considerable patience is required. Only 55% of the production made it into the grand vin as Jean-Philippe Delmas made a severe selection. The final blend was 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2006 has one of the highest natural alcohols ever achieved at La Mission, averaging around 14.3%, which is astonishingly high for a Graves. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035.
Lafite Rothschild F	1996	12×75cl	£10,300	1	100
Tasted three times since bottling, the 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is unquestionably this renowned estate’s greatest wine. As I indicated last year, only 38% of the crop was deemed grand enough to be put into the final blend, which is atypically high in Cabernet Sauvignon (83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot). This massive wine may be the biggest, largest-scaled Lafite I have ever tasted. It will require many years to come around, so I suspect all of us past the age of fifty might want to give serious consideration as to whether we should be laying away multiple cases of this wine. It is also the first Lafite-Rothschild to be put into a new engraved bottle (designed to prevent fraudulent imitations). The wine exhibits a thick-looking, ruby/purple color, and a knock-out nose of lead pencil, minerals, flowers, and black currant scents. Extremely powerful and full-bodied, with remarkable complexity for such a young wine, this huge Lafite is oozing with extract and richness, yet has managed to preserve its quintessentially elegant personality. This wine is even richer than it was prior to bottling. It should unquestionably last for 40-50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. The wine of the vintage?
Lafite Rothschild F	1999	12×75cl	£7,300	1	95
The 1999 Lafite Rothschild sports an engraved "1999" on the bottle along with an eclipse to mark that significant historical event of August, 1999. It is a quintessential offering from Lafite Rothschild. This prodigious wine is both elegant and intensely flavored, and almost diaphanous in its layers that unfold with no heaviness. An opaque ruby/purple color is accompanied by a complex bouquet of lead pencil, graphite, cedar, creme de cassis, toast, and vanilla. It is medium-bodied, with extravagant layers of richness yet little weight, and a finish that is all sweetness, ripeness, and harmony. This extraordinary Lafite increasingly appears to be a modern day clone of the majestic 1953. A mere one-third of the crop made it into the grand vin! Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030.
Lafite Rothschild F	2000	12×75cl	£17,900	1	98
Since I gave this wine a perfect score, I suppose some could see this as a downgrade. I found everything still there for a perfect rating, but I was just struck by how tight and backward the wine was. A blend of 93.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, the wine still has a dark ruby/purple color and an extraordinarily youthful nose of graphite, black currants, sweet, unsmoked cigar tobacco, and flowers. The wine is rich, medium to full-bodied, but has that ethereal elegance and purity that is always Lafite. I originally predicted that it would first reach maturity in 2011, but I would push that back by 5-7 years now, although it has 50-60 years of life in front of it. Owners of this beauty are probably best advised to forget it for 5 years. Tasted next to a 1996 several days after the 2000 tasting, the 1996, which is a perfect wine, was far closer to full maturity than the 2000.
Lafite Rothschild F	2001	12×75cl	£6,750	1	94
The 2001 Lafite Rothschild’s deep, saturated plum/purple color is accompanied by lead pencil liqueur-like notes intermixed with sweet red and black currants, plums, and cedar. This blend of 86.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13.5% Merlot is a classic example of Lafite. Extremely elegant, medium-bodied, with intense concentration, richness, and sweet tannin, it appears to be on a rapid evolutionary track, at least in comparison to recent Lafite vintages that have been far more backward and powerful. The classy 2001 should be at its finest between 2007-2020.
Lafite Rothschild F	2002	12×75cl	£6,800	1	94
A brilliant offering and a candidate for wine of the vintage, this is classic Lafite that reminded me somewhat of the 1976, although the vintage conditions were completely different. This is a medium-weight, quintessentially elegant style of Lafite with notes of lead pencil shavings/graphite along with black currants, plums, and crushed rocks/mineral. Wonderfully pure, dense, with a deep ruby/purple color and loads of fruit, definition, and a long finish, this is a brilliant, elegant Lafite Rothschild that builds incrementally in the mouth and has more power and density than it initially seems. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2025.
Lafite Rothschild F	2003	12×75cl	£9,250	1	100
A modern day version of the 1959 Lafite, the 2003 Lafite Rothschild was bottled in mid-May, 2005 after achieving 12.9% natural alcohol – hardly an astonishing figure given the vintage’s weather conditions. A combination of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Merlot, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, it represents a ripe version of the essence of Lafite-Rothschild. Dense purple-colored, with classic notes of graphite intertwined with melted licorice, creme de cassis, smoke, and flowers, it reveals extraordinary richness, opulence, power, purity, intensity, and viscosity. Whether this wine will close down or not is questionable as it is somewhat atypical given its sweetness and softness. Analytically, there are extremely high tannins, which I suspect will assert themselves in the future. Production in 2003 was less than half of normal. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2050.
Lafite Rothschild F	2004	12×75cl	£6,700	2	95
his beautiful, stunningly dense purple-colored effort (includes about 90% Cabernet Sauvignon) offers up precise notes of graphite, black cherries, cassis, scorched earth, and minerals. Medium to full-bodied with fabulous fruit, impressive richness, refreshing acidity, and sweet tannin, this beauty should be approachable in 4-5 years, and last for three decades. As Lafite Rothschilds go, this is somewhat of a sleeper vintage. Also tasted: 2004 Carruades de Lafite (88)
Lafite Rothschild F	2005	6×75cl	£4,400	1	96
While the 2005 is another brilliantly classic Lafite Rothschild, for my taste, it comes in slightly behind their extraordinarily opulent 2003 as well as the dramatically powerful 2000. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot, the 2005 boasts a dark ruby/purple color in addition to that exceptional Lafite perfume of graphite, spring flowers, crushed rocks, and sweet black cherry and black currant fruit that exudes class and nobility. The wine is medium-bodied with extremely high levels of tannin in addition to sensational purity, length, and overall harmony. However, it is exceptionally backward, and even more tannic than either the 1995 or 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050+
Lafite Rothschild F	2009	6×75cl	£4,800	2	98-100
The 2009 Lafite Rothschild is a candidate for “wine of the vintage.”� Although the 2003 was powerful (12.9% alcohol), the 2009 came in at 13.4% alcohol. It is a blend of 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot. Only 45% of the crop went into the grand vin, which may be the most concentrated Lafite I have ever tasted. There is not a hard edge to be found in this inky/purple-colored wine displaying notes of charcoal, incense, black currants, and licorice. In the mouth, it represents a liqueur of black fruits offered in a remarkably full-bodied, incredibly elegant, lush style. Expansive, savory, staggeringly concentrated, and voluptuous as well as wonderfully precise with a hint of minerality, this sensational wine’s technical numbers are off the charts. Is this a replay of the 1959? Although it will be surprisingly approachable in its youth, this is a 50-100-year wine. (Tasted once.)
Lafite Rothschild F EP	2010	6×75cl	£4,500	4	98-100
RP: 98-100 2010 Lafite Rothschild: This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years. JR: 18.5 Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy. Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished – so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish. Decanter: 20 Fabulous nose of wild violets, wonderful lissom texture backed by aristocratic firmness, a totally captivating wine for the long term. Drink 2020-50. Neil Martin: 95-97 The 2010 is a blend of 87.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12.8% Merlot, cropped between 24th September until 13th October, delivering 13.48% alcohol at pH 3.82. Whereas the 2009 Lafite was an immediate “wow”, this is far more introspective and broody, particular coming directly after Latour. Deep, dusky dark berried fruit, a touch of cedar and pencil box. Good definition but not as expressive or as vigorous as I was expected. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fine but structure tannins, masculine in style, understated compared to Latour. I take a little sip (pourquoi pas?) and there is another annexe of dark cherry and a touch of boysenberry. Hints of cedar and spice towards the dry, tannic finish. This is a Lafite that will grow during its élevage. Drink 2020- Tasted March 2011.
Lafite Rothschild F EP	2010	12×75cl	£8,900	2	98-100
RP: 98-100 2010 Lafite Rothschild: This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years. JR: 18.5 Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy. Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished – so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish. Decanter: 20 Fabulous nose of wild violets, wonderful lissom texture backed by aristocratic firmness, a totally captivating wine for the long term. Drink 2020-50. Neil Martin: 95-97 The 2010 is a blend of 87.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12.8% Merlot, cropped between 24th September until 13th October, delivering 13.48% alcohol at pH 3.82. Whereas the 2009 Lafite was an immediate “wow”, this is far more introspective and broody, particular coming directly after Latour. Deep, dusky dark berried fruit, a touch of cedar and pencil box. Good definition but not as expressive or as vigorous as I was expected. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fine but structure tannins, masculine in style, understated compared to Latour. I take a little sip (pourquoi pas?) and there is another annexe of dark cherry and a touch of boysenberry. Hints of cedar and spice towards the dry, tannic finish. This is a Lafite that will grow during its élevage. Drink 2020- Tasted March 2011.
Latour F	2000	12×75cl	£9,250	1	98
The 2000 Latour (a relatively abundant 14,000 cases compared to what they produced in 2009, 2008, or 2005) is “packed and stacked.” The extremely rich, black/purple color to the rim is followed by a wine with some subtle smoke, loads of minerals, a hint of vanilla, and plenty of creme de cassis as well as roasted meat and a slight scorched earth character. Broad, savory, and rich, the wine seems to be about 5 years away from full maturity and should drink well for at least 40-50 more years. A great effort, probably eclipsed only by 2003 and 2009. My original ratings appear to have been dead on the money for both of these efforts from Chateau Latour.
Latour F	2003	12×75cl	£7,750	1	100
There are only 10,800 cases (rather than the normal 15,000-20,000) of the 2003 Latour, a blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and 1% Petit Verdot (13.3% finished alcohol). A prodigious effort, it boasts a saturated purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of smoke, cedar, creme de cassis, flowers, crushed rocks, and blackberries. Massive and multi-layered, with huge richness and low acidity, it is about as unctuous as a young Latour can be. It could be compared to the 1982, but it may be even more pure, at least at this early stage, than that monumental wine. The level of intensity builds prodigiously in the mouth, and the finish lasts nearly a minute. Disarmingly accessible (although analytically the tannin level is high), I suspect it will ultimately shut down, but it was performing impeccably when I tasted it. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2040+. What can one say about proprietor Francois Pinault and his manager, Frederic Engerer? A strong argument can be made that in 2001, 2002, 2003, and 2004, Latour produced the wine of the vintage, although it has plenty of competition in the Northern Medoc in 2003. Moreover, the bargains are the estate’s least expensive cuvee, Pauillac, followed by Les Forts de Latour, Latour’s second wine which continues to increase in quality.
Latour F	2005	12×75cl	£7,500	1	96
Only 44% of the production made it into the dense ruby/purple-hued 2005 Latour, a powerful, backward, 12,000-case blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Petit Verdot and Merlot. As I wrote last year, this classic effort is built for the ages, and is largely destined to be drunk by our offspring rather than anyone over the age of 50 today. Complex aromas of crushed rocks, graphite, black cherries, creme de cassis, new saddle leather, and dried mushrooms are still tightly wound. The wine is full-bodied and powerful with exceptionally high tannin combined with zesty acidity, and laser-like focus. It will require 15 or more years of cellaring. I still prefer the 2003, but administrator Frederic Engerer says this “is more Latour.” Anticipated maturity: 2020-2060. Latour is always the most difficult Medoc first-growth to find, largely because the vineyard and production are much smaller than its’ peers and because of the severe selection routinely done by owner Francois Pinault and administrator Frederic Engerer.
Latour F	2006	6×75cl	£2,400	1	95
The 2006 Latour performed even better from bottle than from barrel. Only 38% of the production (10,000 cases) made it into the grand vin, a blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot and a small amount of Cabernet Franc. From barrel, I thought it was a modern day version of the 1996 or 1986, and certainly the 1996 comparison still holds. I thought it was somewhat austere from barrel, but that is no longer an issue. This is a beautifully rich Chateau Latour boasting a dense ruby/purple color, a sweet, smoky, charcoal, cassis, graphite, and forest floor-scented nose, full body, an attractive freshness, and sweet, noble tannins. This layered Latour is one of the vintage’s top dozen or so wines. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030. Latour’s brilliant manager, Frederic Engerer, has purchased 15 hectares of old vine Grenache and Syrah in the Cotes du Rhone region, the Drome, at a cool-climate elevation. I can’t wait to see the first vintage from this Cotes du Rhone project.
Latour F	2007	12×75cl	£4,000	2	92
The 2007 Latour (the first wine made in the newly renovated cellars) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sweet, expansive bouquet of black fruits and spring flowers interwoven with a striking minerality. The wine’s dense, medium to full-bodied flavors are surprisingly evolved, with soft tannins, an ample, generous mouthfeel, and an endearing texture. Undoubtedly one of the longest lived wines of the vintage, the 2007 Latour should last for two decades or more.
Latour F EP	2010	12×75cl	£10,500	1	98-100
It’s too early to know for sure, but the 2010 Latour appears to be a huge and massive Pauillac fruit bomb from this property. With 14.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and .5% Cabernet Franc, director Frederic Engerer told me it is unlike any other wine made at this estate. Possessing abundant amounts of everything, it even eclipses the 2009 in terms of power with a lower pH and higher total acidity. Representing only 36% of the production (making it even more difficult to find than usual, as this is the smallest of the Medoc first growths), it possesses an opaque black/purple color along with an extraordinary perfume of spring flowers, blueberry, blackberry and cassis liqueurs and hints of white chocolate as well as earth intermixed with vague charcoal and truffle-like components. With unreal concentration, full-bodied power, and a precision, freshness and refined level of tannins that are something to behold, this remarkable offering is one of my personal favorites of the vintage. It will undoubtedly shut down after bottling and enjoy 50-60 years of longevity.
Le Petit Mouton F	2008	6×75cl	£480	10	–
(Notes not available)
Le Petit Mouton F	2009	6×75cl	£500	10	90-92
The second wine, the 2009 Le Petit Mouton, is the finest second wine they have ever made. Aromas of black currants, flowers, mocha, and earth jump from the glass of this fleshy, heady, full-bodied wine. The final blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, and the alcohol level is slightly higher than the Mouton’s. It should drink well for 15+ years. (Tasted once.)
Le Petit Mouton F EP	2010	6×75cl	£650	8	90-93
RP: 90-93 2010 Le Petit Mouton: A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot, this may be finest second wine Mouton Rothschild has yet produced. The selection process is unquestionably severe, and the 2010 Le Petit Mouton is even higher in alcohol than the grand vin. Abundant cassis, supple tannins and more near-term pleasure can be found in this full-bodied, rich, impressively endowed effort. Enjoy it over the next 10-15 years.
Leoville Barton	2009	12×75cl	£700	1	93-95
This behemoth possesses massive extraction, an opaque purple color, huge density, extreme tannins, and a nearly endless finish. Everything is there, but the highly extracted style and off the chart tannins ensures that no one over the age of forty will ever see this wine hit full maturity. Nevertheless, there is a lot to admire, and it’s good to taste a wine that will not be ready to drink for 30+ years. No compromise! (Tasted two times.)
Leoville Lascases F	2003	12×75cl	£1,150	2	93
The solidly made 2003 Leoville Las-Cases (13.2% alcohol) is a blend of 70.2% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17.2% Merlot, and 12.6% Cabernet Franc. In this incredibly hot vintage, the alcohol is slightly lower than achieved in 2002, a cool-climate year. While not a profound example of Las-Cases, the 2003 is muscular, deep, and full-bodied with an impressive ruby/purple color, a tight but juicy bouquet of vanilla, black cherries, crushed rocks, and flowers, a sweet attack, and moderately high tannin. Backward and fresh, displaying impeccable delineation and purity, it can be enjoyed between 2012-2023.
Leoville Lascases F	2008	6×75cl	£565	4	93
A classic style of Las Cases that is somewhat masculine for the vintage, tannic and backward, and less formidably concentrated than the 2009 or 2010, the 2008 needs 7-8 years of cellaring. Dense purple, the aromatics are closed, but with coaxing and aggressive swirling, notes of crushed rock, black currants and some forest floor notes emerge. Impressively built, medium to full-bodied, layered and stunningly concentrated, this is a sleeper vintage for Leoville Las Cases that should improve considerably, given how closed it was the day I tasted it. It is another 30+ year wine from proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon.
Leoville Lascases F	2009	12×75cl	£2,200	4	96-100
The 2009 is one of the greatest Leoville Las Cases I have ever tasted, which is saying something given the many compelling wines that have been made at this estate. A final blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, and 9% Cabernet Franc has resulted in a wine that appears to be a hypothetical blend of the 1982, 1986, and 1996. Its 13.8% alcohol is perhaps the only thing that sets it apart from those vintages, which had nearly a full percentage point less. The high alcohol is barely noticeable in this 2009, which boasts an inky/purple color, monumental concentration, and great clarity and purity of creme de cassis, black cherry, spice box, graphite, and wet rock characteristics. Extremely full-bodied with a boatload of sweet tannin nearly concealed by the wine-s power, glycerin, and awesome fruit concentration, this intense effort never tastes heavy or tiring. This remarkable St.-Julien should be accessible in 3-4 years, and will evolve for 40-50. (Tasted once.)
Leoville Lascases F EP	2010	12×75cl	£2,000	5	95-98
RP: 95-98 2010 Leoville Las Cases: As one would expect, this is a powerful, concentrated wine with 13.7% natural alcohol (compared to 2005’s 13.2%). The pH is quite normal at 3.56, and its relatively high total acidity gives it a classic, fresh, yet backward style. Given how long vintages such as 1982, 1986, and I suspect, 2000 are taking to reach maturity, prospective purchasers of this wine should easily invest in a decade of cellaring, although I suspect it will be closer to 15 or more years before it reveals secondary nuances. A good 40- to 50-year wine, it is a dense purple, full-bodied style of Las Cases, with classic sweet kirsch, graphite and black currant fruit as well as hints of new saddle leather and subtle oak. Backward, layered and multi-dimensional, the wine is stunningly rich, but brooding. Forget it at least until 2020 or later. JR: 17.5 Excellent deep crimson. Very introvert and very dry. Super-sweet start and initially seems much rounder and less obdurate than usual. Though those dry tannins certainly creep up on you at the end! Some silkiness and glorying in the special ripeness of the Cabernet in this wine. Very dry end. Not that long funnily enough. A certain transparency that is not usually there. Decanter: 19.5 Stunning concentration of fruit, precision and purity, a great vineyard expression and a totally great wine in the most simple sense of the term. Drink 2025-50. Neil Martin: 96-98 Cropped at 36.7hl/ha, the Leoville Las-Cases is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, offering 13.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.56. It will be raised in 75% new oak. The nose is very intense with notes of blackberry, cassis, tobacco and a touch of black truffle, all very well defined and perhaps less generous, but more cerebral than the 2009. The palate is full-bodied with exceptionally silky smooth tannins, wonderful harmony and sense of beguiling composure and completeness. The finish is tannic, driven by the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. I expect this Las-Cases to close down for a few years...it will need time to mellow and reach its drinking plateau. Drink 2025- Tasted March 2011.
Leoville Poyferre	2009	12×75cl	£1,175	5	97-100
One of the stars of the vintage, it will be interesting to see if Poyferre ultimately eclipses Las Cases as the finest of the three Leovilles. The 2009 is even better than the 2000, 2003, and 2005. Its inky/purple color precedes a wine filled with extraordinary opulence, voluptuous texture, and sweet tannin. It offers both intellectual and hedonistic pleasure with layer upon layer of ripe fruit. Yields were 43 hectoliters per hectare, the blend is more than two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot, and the natural alcohol is the highest ever measured at this estate, 13.95%. The high alcohol is not the least bit noticeable because of the extraordinary concentration and freshness possessed by most 2009s – a vintage characteristic that will serve these wines for decades to come. This is a wine to purchase by the case-load. It should drink well for 30-45 years. (Tasted three times.)
Leoville PoyferreEP	2010	12×75cl	£975	3	95-98
RP: 95-98 2010: One of the prodigious wines of the vintage, the Cuvelier family has produced an outstanding 2010 that must tip the scales at 14.5+% alcohol. It boasts an opaque purple color in addition to a sweet perfume of spring flowers, black raspberries, creme de cassis and a hint of spicy oak. This seamlessly constructed St.-Julien possesses massive concentration, moderately high tannins, abundant glycerin, an unctuous texture, remarkably fresh acids and wonderful precision. It will benefit from 5-6 years of cellaring and last 30-35 years. JR: 17.5 Very concentrated and luscious looking. Exceptionally deep crimson. Very fine and sophisticated on the nose. Both concentration and lift but then perhaps just a bit too concentrated on the palate? Certainly very attention grabbing with lots of very ripe, very dry fruit. Lustrous. With some welcoming appeal. Pure, luscious Médoc Cabernet. Very long and vibrant. Decanter: 18.5 Fine extraction of black fruits, both richer and more tannic than the Barton, very good ripeness for long ageing. Drink 2020-40. Neil Martin: 93-95 Tasted at the chateau and twice at the UGC, the Leoville Poyferre is a blend of 61% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 6% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc, a pH of 3.7 and alcohol at 14%. It has a spellbinding, extraordinarily pure bouquet that in an obtuse way reminds me of a Romanee St. Vivant. So much panache. The palate is medium-bodied with silky smooth tannins, one of the most sensual of all the 2010s that I have tasted. Seamless cashmere texture towards the finish with dark cherries, blueberry and crème de cassis all wrapped up in a veil of vanilla. Superb. Drink 2015- Tasted April 2011.
Les Ormes de PezEP	2010	12×75cl	£220	15	87-90
RP: 87-90 This dense purple-colored 2010 exhibits dark raspberry and blueberry fruit notes, less power and structure than its neighbor De Pez, but more finesse, elegance and fruit forwardness. This impressively endowed effort should drink nicely for 10-15 years. JR: 17 Healthy crimson. Ripe and robust. Big and bold without much care for seduction. Very solid but it will take a lot of time to settle down. Neil Martin: 92-94 Tasted at Lynch-Bages and the UGC, the vineyard suffered some hail damage and some parcels lost as much as 30-40% of the crop and the yield which is 44hl/ha. The Les Ormes de Pez is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot raised in 45% new oak. It has a very sensual, very pure bouquet with dark cherries, boysenberry, wild hedgerow, mint and a touch of vanilla, much more feminine than the wines of the past. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins on the entry, very good ripeness here and the Cabernet Sauvignon is really in harmony with the ripe Merlot. Voluminous and silky smooth towards the finish, this is an outstanding Les Ormes de Pez. Drink 2015- Tasted March 2011.
Lynch Bages F	1996	12×75cl	£1,350	1	94
In the flight of young wines, with all the vintages of the nineties represented, this wine stood out for its absolute purity of creme de cassis, ripe fruit, medium to full body, high tannin, wonderful sweetness, massive richness on the mid-palate, and abundant power, density, and ripeness. It is clearly the finest Lynch Bages since the 1989 and 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025.
Lynch Bages F	2003	12×75cl	£1,050	2	95
This sexy, evolved, dense ruby/purple-tinged 2003 reveals notes of smoke, herbs, black currant jam, licorice and graphite. Full-bodied, opulent and flamboyant, it is another example of a stunning 2003 northern Medoc that can be drunk now or cellared for 10-15 more years. This irregular vintage hit its zenith in the northern Medoc and in a handful of limestone terroirs in St.-Emilion. In contrast, other areas, particularly Pomerol, Graves and the sandy, gravelly soils of St.-Emilion, experienced difficulties in 2003.
Lynch Bages F	2006	12×75cl	£795	5	94
1988 or 1995-ish in style, rather than 1996, which seems to be the vintage several 2006s recall, this dense purple-colored wine displays sweet notes of creme de cassis, tobacco leaf, licorice, and some cedar and graphite. The wine has plenty of structure a la 1995 and a backward, muscular personality, but beautiful fruit on the attack and alluring purity and a nicely textured mouthfeel. The finish suggests cellaring for 3-5 years and drinking over the following two decades.
Lynch Bages F	2009	12×75cl	£1,140	10	94-96
The highest levels of polyphenols ever measured at Lynch Bages (20% higher than any prior vintage) are found in the 2009, which achieved 13.4% natural alcohol, and a normal pH of 3.64. Composed of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it is the greatest Lynch Bages since the outstanding duo of 1989 and 1990. The black/purple-tinged 2009 exhibits a glorious perfume of graphite, black currants, and subtle smoke, powerful, thick, unctuously textured flavors, huge yet sweet tannins, fabulous purity, and a finish that lasts 40-45 seconds. Five to eight years of patience will be required, but this is a 30-40-year wine from this popular estate run by the affable and highly respected Cazes family. (Tasted three times.)
Lynch Bages F EP	2010	12×75cl	£1,150	5	95-97
Over the last three vintages, Lynch Bages has returned with a vengeance after somewhat listless performances following their brilliant duo of 1989 and 1990. Much of the credit for this must go to Jean-Charles Cazes who has taken over for his father, Jean-Michel, one of the greatest ambassadors Bordeaux has ever had. The 2010 blew me away on each occasion I tasted it during my two week sojourn in Bordeaux. Tannic and concentrated, this huge Pauillac boasts an inky/purple color as well as impressive notes of creme de cassis, smoke, graphite and spring flowers. This dense, seriously endowed, monstrous Lynch Bages is reminiscent of some of the wines made at this estate in the 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. It will require 4-5 years of cellaring and should be drinkable for 3-4 decades.
Margaux F	1995	12×75cl	£3,900	1	95
Medium garnet colour going brick at the rim. The nose is beginning to showing signs of evolution with aromas of leather, game, warm cassis, dried plums and cloves. Medium to high acidity, medium body and medium to firm, fine tannins support earthy, blackcurrant-preserve fruit. Long finish. Drink now – 2030+. Tasted February 2009.
Margaux F	1996	12×75cl	£5,100	1	99
The 1996 Chateau Margaux, which was bottled in September, 1998, is undoubtedly one of the great classics produced under the Mentzelopoulos regime. In many respects, it is the quintessential Chateau Margaux, as well as the paradigm for this estate, combining measured power, extraordinary elegance, and admirable complexity. I tasted the wine on three separate occasions in January, and in short, it’s a beauty! The color is opaque purple. The wine offers extraordinarily pure notes of blackberries, cassis, pain grille, and flowers, gorgeous sweetness, a seamless personality, and full body, with nothing out of place. The final blend (85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc) contains a high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It tastes complete and long, although backward. My instincts suggest this wine will shut down, but at present it is open-knit, tasting like a recently bottled wine. The fruit is exceptionally sweet and pure, and there are layers of flavor in the mouth. I do believe this wine will develop an extraordinary perfume, and possess a high level of richness. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2040.
Margaux F	2000	12×75cl	£7,500	1	100
Absolutely compelling in two tastings of this vintage, the 2000 Margaux is composed of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot. The extraordinary seductiveness, complex aromatics, and purity it exhibits lead me to believe it has reached its window of full maturity. Medium-bodied, with layers of concentration, stunning blue, red, and black fruits intermixed with spring flowers, a subtle dosage of new oak, and a distinctive personality that is elegant while at the same time powerful and substantial, this is a multi-dimensional wine that was extremely approachable and drinkable in both tastings I had of it. The color remains a healthy, even opaque bluish/purple, but there is no reason to hesitate to drink it. It should evolve for another 30-40 years, so there is no hurry either.
Margaux F	2001	12×75cl	£3,200	1	93
Performing well from bottle, Chateau Margaux’s 2001, which is somewhat reminiscent of both the 1985 and 1999, is an elegant, seamlessly constructed effort with a deep ruby/purple color, and a beautiful nose of flowers, creme de cassis, blackberries, and cedar. A blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 7% Petit Verdot, and 4% Cabernet Franc, this forward, opulent beauty can be drunk now or cellared for 15-20 years. This is one of the most elegant wines of the vintage.
Margaux F	2002	12×75cl	£3,200	4	93
Performing better from bottle than at any time in cask (which of course is the objective of great winemaking, isn’t it?), this wine reveals a dense ruby/purple color in a style somewhat reminiscent of the 1988 but with more power, concentration, and volume. It has a beautifully elegant nose of black fruits intermixed with truffle, flower, and oak. The wine is medium to full-bodied, dense, with wonderful precision, freshness, and a long, full-bodied finish with impressive levels of concentration. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2030.
Margaux F	2003	12×75cl	£5,000	3	99
Am I being too stingy with the 2003 Chateau Margaux? A wine of extraordinary complexity and intensity, it reveals a deep purple color, a style not unlike the 1990 Margaux (possibly even more concentrated), a velvety texture, and notes of spring flowers interwoven with camphor, melted licorice, creme de cassis, and pain grille. Not a blockbuster, it offers extraordinary intensity as well as a surreal delicacy/lightness. There is riveting freshness to this offering, which tips the scales at a lofty (for this estate) 13.5% alcohol, as well as an alluring sweetness and accessibility. It probably will tighten up over the next few years. Nevertheless, it is a profound Chateau Margaux that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2035.
Margaux F	2004	12×75cl	£3,000	1	93
The supple-textured 2004 Chateau Margaux is reminiscent of the 2001 or 1999. It exhibits a superb blue/purple color to the rim as well as sweet aromas of flowers, blueberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and smoke, superb fruit intensity, medium body, classic elegance, and silky, sweet tannin in the long finish. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for two decades or more.
Monbousquet	2003	12×75cl	£400	3	–
(Notes not available)
Montrose F	2007	12×75cl	£530	12	91
One of the stars of the vintage, the 2007 Montrose boasts a deep blue/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. Dense and opulent with silky tannins, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, a long finish, and no hard edges, this beauty should drink well for 15+ years.
Montrose F	2008	6×75cl	£385	10	95-97
An undeniably great Montrose, after some time in wood, the 2008 should achieve the heights of the 2003, 1990, and 1989. Stylistically different from those wines, the 2008 harvest took place between September 29 and October 15, and yields were a modest 44 hectoliters per hectare. This superb terroir west of the Gironde River possesses a remarkable amount of gravel in the soil base. Sixty percent of the production made it into the 2008 Montrose, and the person responsible for so many great Haut-Brions, Jean-Bernard Delmas, came out of retirement to take charge over the last several vintages for proprietor Martin Bouygues. An inky/purple color is accompanied by sweet, pure aromas of black fruits and spice. This full-bodied wine exhibits superb concentration, sweet tannin, and a multilayered, textured, full-bodied mouthfeel with no hard edges. The sweetness of the tannin, the extraordinary purity of fruit, and the intense aromatics suggest a year of great ripeness. The difference between the 2008 and the 2003, 1990, or 1989 is the freshness and purity of expression. This should be a long-lived wine (35+ years), yet it will drink surprisingly well at a young age. For some reason, it comes across like an even more pure example of the 1989, even though there is nothing essentially comparable between the two harvests.
Mouton Rothschild F	1982	12×75cl	£11,800	1	100
This wine remains one of the legends of Bordeaux. It has thrown off the backward, youthful style that existed during its first 25 years of life, and over the last 4-5 years has developed such secondary nuances as cedar and spice box. The creme de cassis, underlying floral note, full-bodied power, extraordinary purity, multilayered texture, and finish of over a minute are a showcase for what this Chateau accomplished in 1982. The wine is still amazingly youthful, vibrant, and pure. It appears capable of remaining fruity and vibrant in 2082! Thank God it is beginning to budge, as I would like to drink most of my supply before I kick the bucket. This is a great, still youthful wine, and, on occasion, one does understand the hierarchy of Bordeaux chateaux when you see the complexity and brilliance of this first-growth. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050+ Release price: ($350.00/case)
Mouton Rothschild F	1986	12×75cl	£6,750	2	100
Deep garnet-black colour. An incredible array of aromas on the nose: blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, espresso, leather, black olive and loam. The palate is absolutely seamless from first impression to finish, effortlessly building layers of complexity in the mouth and leading to a very long, earth and spice finish. I can’t see how this could possibly be improvement so have no alternative but concede perfection. Drink now to 2045+. Tasted March 2009.
Mouton Rothschild F	1996	12×75cl	£3,600	4	94
This estate’s staff believes that the 1996 Mouton-Rothschild is very complex. I agree that among the first-growths, this wine is showing surprising forwardness and complexity in its aromatics. It possesses an exuberant, flamboyant bouquet of roasted coffee, cassis, smoky oak, and soy sauce. The impressive 1996 Mouton-Rothschild offers impressive aromas of black currants, framboise, coffee, and new saddle leather. This full-bodied, ripe, rich, concentrated, superbly balanced wine is paradoxical in the sense that the aromatics suggest a far more evolved wine than the flavors reveal. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. By the way, the 1996 blend consists of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc.
Mouton Rothschild F	1998	12×75cl	£3,400	1	96
Deep garnet-black. The nose is a little mute even given this wine’s youth, providing a moderate intensity of evolving aromas: game, earth, blackcurrant jam and a whiff of dried herbs. The medium+ bodied palate is gently styled with a medium+ level of finely grained tannins and medium+ acidity. Mid-palate is a bit hollow and the finish perhaps not as long as I’d expect. Good wine but not exactly living up to its first growth status. Drink now to 2025. Tasted February 2009.
Mouton Rothschild F	2000	12×75cl	£9,600	1	96
Perhaps the most beautiful packaging ever on a Bordeaux bottle, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild literally produced a work of art in the gold-engraved bottle of 2000 Mouton Rothschild. Of course, one can’t drink the glass, but this is a top-flight Mouton Rothschild, eclipsed only by the 2006 and 2009. A rich, tannic, earthy style, with loads of creme de cassis and floral notes, the final blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot is a full-bodied wine with plenty of coffee, earth, chocolatey notes, and still plenty of tannin to resolve. I gave it an anticipated maturity range of 2015-2050 back in 2003, and that looks on target.
Mouton Rothschild F	2001	12×75cl	£3,100	1	89
A blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, the opaque purple-colored, chunky 2001 Mouton-Rothschild does not possess the finesse and stature often achieved by this first-growth. It offers a tell-tale cassis-scented nose, and a monolithic, medium to full-bodied style with relatively high, austere tannin in the finish (a characteristics I also noticed in cask). A dry, angular, backward effort for the vintage, it should be forgotten for at least a decade. Let’s hope the fruit continues to expand and sweeten, but that’s no sure thing. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025+.
Mouton Rothschild F	2003	12×75cl	£3,200	1	95
Backward, powerful, and extremely tannic, the dense purple-colored 2003 Mouton-Rothschild, a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, fashioned from yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, with a finished alcohol of 12.9%, improves dramatically with aeration. With full-bodied, meaty, powerful, dry flavors as well as a huge finish, this high class wine should be at its finest between 2012-2040+. During its sojourn in barrel, it reminded me of a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1986 Moutons, but since bottling, it appears different, and even more tannic than those two vintages. I still believe the finest recent Mouton-Rothschild is the 2000.
Mouton Rothschild F	2004	12×75cl	£2,950	5	91
Deep garnet-black. There’s a wonderful purity of fruit on the nose with aromas of warm blackcurrant, dark cherries, dark chocolate, anise, cinnamon and a waft of cedar. The palate is relatively rich with a medium to full body and a good amount of ripe, mouth-filling fruit. Medium+ level of velvety tannins and medium+ acidity provide nice balance. Long spicy finish. Drink 2011 to 2030+. Tasted February 2009.
Mouton Rothschild F	2005	12×75cl	£4,600	1	96
The 2005 Mouton Rothschild will have to take a back seat to the prodigious 2006, but administrator Philippe Dalhuin deserves considerable credit for pushing Mouton to higher quality levels over recent years. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot, the dark purple-hued 2005 exhibits a restrained but promising nose of cedar, tobacco leaf, creme de cassis, and toasty oak. Full-bodied, tannic, and extremely backward, with the vintage’s tell-tale acidity, it appears to be even more closed in the bottle than it was from barrel. It does possess a long finish and multilayered mouthfeel. This is an undeniably outstanding, yet restrained, shy wine for a Mouton Rothschild. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040+
Mouton Rothschild F	2007	12×75cl	£2,950	6	92
Composed of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot, the deep purple-colored 2007 Mouton reveals sweet aromas of creme de cassis, subtle oak, and flowers. Medium to full-bodied and elegant with sweet tannin as well as flavors and a texture that build incrementally on the palate, this strong effort should evolve over the next 15 years.
Palmer	2009	12×75cl	£2,350	4	94-96
The black/purple-colored 2009 Palmer exhibits a level of tannin that exceeds anything they have previously produced. The final blend is 52% Merlot, 41% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 7% Petit Verdot, and the finished alcohol is 13.9%. It is hard to say this 2009 will turn out better than Palmer’s extraordinary 2005, but it certainly will be different in style given the alcohol level and power of this vintage. Pure blackberry and black currant fruit notes intermixed with hints of incense, graphite, and wood are followed by an opulent, thick, juicy wine with plenty of structure, and enormous concentration, mass, and length. Four to five years of patience is required, but this beauty should last for three decades or more. (Tasted once.)
Pavie	2004	6×75cl	£625	1	95
A brilliant effort from proprietors Chantal and Gerard Perse, Pavie’s 2004 (7,050 cases) exhibits an inky/ruby/purple color, a surprisingly soft, forward style for this hallowed terroir, full-bodied, and concentrated creme de cassis flavors intermixed with cherries, truffles, and subtle smoky wood notes. Beautifully-textured as well as expansive, this may be the most developed and forward Pavie made by Perse since his acquisition of the property in 1998. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2025+.
Pavie	2006	12×75cl	£1,350	1	96
The 2006 Pavie, a blend of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon, is cropped low as the viticultural work is impeccable, the winemaking is thoroughly Burgundian in style, and bottling is accomplished with no fining or filtration. With over 90 acres in vine, this is one of the larger of the premier grand cru classes in St.-Emilion. A prodigious effort, the 2006 does not have the sucrosite of the 2005, 2003, or 2000, but it would not be embarrassed if tasted side by side with either of those two titans. A dense purple color as well as an extraordinary perfume of crushed black currants, licorice, wet stones, and subtle background oak are found in this tannic, dense, masculine-styled 2006. Backward and extraordinarily pure, it is built like a Manhattan skyscraper with exceptional focus, depth, texture, and length. It’s all here, but 5-10 years of patience will be warranted. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2035. Since 1998, no other Bordeaux estate except Ausone has had such a superlative record of quality. Pavie’s wines are usually among the top half-dozen in every vintage, including such challenging years as 2004, 2003, 2002, and 1999. Proprietor Gerard Perse’s flagship vineyard is situated on a gorgeous, south-facing slope possessing three distinct soil types, limestone, clay, and a sand/clay mixture.
Pavie	2008	6×75cl	£675	1	96-98
Is the 2008 Pavie superior to the 2005 and 2000? While that is impossible to know at this stage of its development, it will certainly be one of the three greatest Pavies made under the administration of Chantal and Gerard Perse. Cropped at a very low 30 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend is a classic Pavie combination of 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The 14.5% natural alcohol is the highest ever achieved at this estate. The inky/blue/purple color is followed by a wine with a concentrated, full-bodied texture, a layered mouthfeel, fresh acids, abundant tannin, and a 50-60-year evolution ahead of it. Compared to the enormous, but backward 2005, the 2008 seems even less evolved at a similar stage. Sweet creme de cassis, black cherry, licorice, and smoky barbecue characteristics combine with a liqueur of minerality that resonates from this terroir that is considered to be among the top dozen or so vineyard sites in Bordeaux. This remarkable offering, from a person who has, thankfully, ignored the petty jealousy and unfair criticism of his administration, is another St.-Emilion for your children’s children. For the fact-mongers, this cuvee was hand-harvested between October 13-21, with the grapes put in small plastic containers. Everything is moved by gravity flow, and there is no fining or filtration following a slightly longer than normal aging (28-30 months) in oak casks.
Petit Cheval	2003	12×75cl	£1,000	2	–
(Notes not available)
Phelan Segur	2009	12×75cl	£240	10	90-92
Like many of the top 2009s, Phelan-Segur is a huge, full-bodied effort with massive fruit as well as good freshness, precision, and elegance. This is all rather paradoxical given previous great vintages that either lean toward cooler vintage characteristics or hot ones. This 2009 possesses both styles. It exhibits lots of mulberry, boysenberry, and crushed, jammy black fruits, abundant tannin, medium to full body, an opulent mouthfeel, and enough structure to evolve for two decades or more. This is a sleeper of the vintage. (Tasted two times.)
Pichon Baron F	2006	12×75cl	£690	2	92
Closed but promising, this is a tannic, masculine style of wine in 2006, with an inky bluish/purple color as well as aromas of incense, charcoal, smoked meats, and the classic creme de cassis that one finds in the top Pauillacs. The aromatics are still retrained, but the wine is full-bodied in the mouth, tannic, backward, and set for a relatively long life. This is not one of the profound wines from Pichon Longueville Baron, but it is certainly a top-flight success for the vintage. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028.
Pichon Baron F	2008	12×75cl	£780	4	95
2008: A sleeper of the vintage, the 2008 Pichon Longueville Baron is one of the densest, most concentrated wines of Pauillac in 2008. An inky/purple color is followed by aromas and flavors of creme de cassis, blackberries, charcoal, coffee and licorice. Exceptionally full-bodied with velvety tannins and undeniable appeal, this gorgeous, well-proportioned, larger than life 2008 should age effortlessly for two decades or more. With the realistic pricing that remains for many 2008s, this is a no-brainer.
Pichon Baron F EP	2010	12×75cl	£1,425	10	97-99
Jancis: Decanter: Neal Martin: /> Parker review: 2010: A prodigious, blockbuster effort from Pichon Longueville Baron, the 2010 is reminiscent of this estate’s titanic offerings in 1989 and 1990, but may be even greater with 30 years of longevity. Kudos to proprietor AXA and general director Christian Seeley. It was absolutely compelling on each of the three times I tasted it. Black/purple-colored with super concentration and richness as well as full body, it offers an awesome display of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, camphor and spring flowers. Stunningly pure and unctuously textured with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this superstar of the vintage is definitely a wine to purchase as a future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.
Pichon Lalande F	2007	12×75cl	£675	2	89
Pichon Lalande’s 2007 is a seductive, dark ruby/plum-tinged wine displaying sweet cocoa, white chocolate, black currant, and foresty notes, medium body, a velvety texture, and a delicious style. The final blend is 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Drink it over the next decade.
Pichon Lalande F	2008	12×75cl	£740	3	94-96
The 2008 Pichon Lalande’s final blend was 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc. Only 38% of the crop made it into the grand vin, and the result is a wine that blows away the 2005. Terrific texture and opulence, forward fruit, sweet tannin, and a lush personality are found in this dense purple-colored 2008 along with copious quantities of sweet berries, roasted coffee, underbrush, black currant, and black cherry fruit. Sensationally pure, textured, and full-bodied, this will be a flamboyant, showy offering in its youth, but it is capable of lasting 20-30 years. This is another top estate with very low yields (42 hectoliters per hectare) that achieved an atypically high alcohol level of 13%.
Pichon Lalande F	2009	12×75cl	£1,350	6	96-98
The blend for the 2009 Pichon Lalande is dominated by Cabernet Sauvignon, somewhat unusual at this estate which usually has more Merlot in the blend. As stated previously, the Cabernet Sauvignon reached levels of ripeness and intensity of flavor in 2009 never seen before in Bordeaux! The final blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 5% Petit Verdot and a pH of 3.8 combines the best of a vintage such as 1996, in terms of structure, freshness, and precision, with the best of 1982, in terms of opulence, power, unctuosity, and thickness. The opaque purple-colored 2009 exhibits an intoxicatingly intense nose of red and black fruits, subtle smoke, charcoal, forest floor, and a hint of flowers. Unusually full-bodied for a wine from this estate as well as unctuously textured, voluptuous, and incredibly pure and precise, this dazzling wine should be drinkable at an early age, and evolve for 30+ years. (Tasted once.) Like most Medoc chateaux, Pichon Lalande began their harvest on September 22, and finished on October 7.
Pontet Canet F	1995	12×75cl	£725	4	92
An old style Pauillac, yet made with far more purity and richness than the estate’s ancient vintages, this broad-shouldered, muscular, classic wine exhibits a saturated purple color, and sensationally dense, rich, concentrated, cassis flavors that roll over the palate with impressive purity and depth. The wine is tannic and closed, but powerful and rich. It appears to possess length and intensity similar to the 1996. This is a great young Pauillac. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2025. The extraordinary effort that Alfred Tesseron is making at this property is reconfirmed with each new tasting note I write on Pontet-Canet. Having recently had the exceptionally impressive 1994 in several tastings, it is a pleasure to see this historic estate turning out wines that behave like super seconds rather than fifth-growths.
Pontet Canet F	2003	12×75cl	£800	10	95
One cannot say enough about the labors of proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who has personally overseen the dramatic increase in quality of the wines at Pontet-Canet which started in a significant manner with 1994. This is a classic Pauillac-styled wine (meaning oodles of cassis flavors), as one might expect from a vineyard on the plateau of Pauillac, across the street from Mouton-Rothschild. One of the great successes of the vintage and certainly one of the most profound Pontet-Canets made over the last decade is the 2003. Deep purple to the rim with a glorious nose of scorched earth, black currant jam, smoke, licorice, and roasted meats, it is full-bodied, incredibly powerful, dense, with low acidity but high tannin, broad-shouldered, and savory. This is a stunning, pure, classic Pontet-Canet that should be at its best between 2010 and 2035.
Pontet Canet F	2008	6×75cl	£370	20	96-98
A wine for our children’s children. Nobody in Bordeaux is more attentive to detail than Alfred Tesseron is at Pontet-Canet. Fashioned from incredibly low yields, a very late harvest, and a Draconian selection, the 2008 will not be close to drinkability for at least a decade, and it should still be in superb form circa 2060. An absolutely amazing effort, it boasts an inky/black/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of creme de cassis, graphite, charcoal, and incense, blockbuster depth, and full-bodied power. The tannins are high, but they are remarkably velvety as well as well-integrated. Sensational acidity gives the wine precision and vibrancy, but the impression is one of massive concentration and power. The 2008 Pontet-Canet, a candidate for the wine of the vintage, is a tour de force in viticultural precision and winemaking savoir faire.
Pontet Canet F	2009	12×75cl	£1,250	10	97-100
It’s no surprise that proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a possibly perfect 2009. He’s been on a roll since 1994, and no other producer has done more work in the vineyard than Tesseron, who has moved to 100% bio-dynamic farming, reduced yields drastically, and instituted a draconian selection process. This vineyard, which sits on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, has produced a 2009 of extraordinary intensity and purity. It is outrageously concentrated, with silky tannin (the sweetest I have ever tasted in a Pontet-Canet as well as the highest measured), an opaque purple color, and copious notes of graphite, cassis, licorice, and subtle smoke and forest floor. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with striking purity and definition, it is a wine of colossal weight as well as elegance (in itself a poster boy for this paradox in 2009). This brilliant Pauillac requires a decade of cellaring despite its voluptuous texture. It should evolve for 50-75 years. (Tasted four times.)
Pontet Canet F EP	2010	12×75cl	£1,050	10	96-100
RP: 96-100 2010: Pontet-Canet’s 2010 harvest took place between September 29 and October 17 (this vineyard is one of the few in Bordeaux that is fully certified as biodynamic) and the final blend was 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol. A remarkable, full-bodied effort (as was the estate’s 2009 and 2008), like so many recent vintages from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, it is of first-growth quality (some may even argue that it eclipses several first-growths). Dense purple to the rim, it offers classic notes of creme de cassis, graphite, subtle smoke and spring flowers. Multidimensional with massive concentration as well as vivid purity, precision and freshness, this is another astonishing effort from an obsessive/compulsive proprietor who is doing everything right. On the downside, this 2010 will require a decade of cellaring and should evolve for 50+ years. It will be fascinating to drink it side by side with the 2009 and 2008. JR: 17.5 Dense, rich and minty on the nose with real density. Lots of luscious chew. This is clearly from a great vintage with huge vivacity. Heavy undertow. Long. Minerals and firm. Racy. Decanter: 18.5 Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30. Neil Martin: 93-95 The Pontet Canet has a very pure bouquet that you could almost compare to a Burgundy. Blackberry, dark cherries, a touch of mint and graphite, exceptionally well defined, flowering with 3-4 minutes in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with very fine but firm, tensile tannins, perhaps even more purity than the 2009, not a million miles away (both geographically and stylistically) from Mouton-Rothschild. The finish is very smooth with a sorbet-like freshness, firm grip, long in the mouth towards the finish with some crème de cassis and blueberry towards the finish. The Merlot content lends this a little more opulence than some of the other Pauillac 2010s. There is a lot of volume to this wine, really fills the mouth with a sweet, sensual finish, but keep find myself yearning for more Cabernet Sauvignon . Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March 2011
Rieussec	2006	12×75cl	£300	5	–
(Notes not available)
Rieussec	2007	12×75cl	£300	3	93
This has a very primal nose, the oak exposed at the moment although there is obviously a great deal of fruit concentration underneath. The palate is well balanced, a little oaky on the entry, dried honey, lemon curd, apricot and orange peel towards the linear finish. Tightly coiled Sauternes, quite modern in style, this should develop over 8-10 years in the bottle before really opening up and one hopes, evolve a little more “personality”. Drink 2011-2025.
S de Suduiraut, Bordeaux dry white	2007	6×75cl	£195	20	–
(Notes not available)
Smith Haut Lafitte	2009	12×75cl	£690	2	96-98
One can’t say enough about what proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard have accomplished at this estate since 1990. Regrettably, I am old enough to remember how horrible the wines were before the Cathiards purchased the property. They have fashioned one of the most consistently outstanding wines, both white and red, over the last two decades, and their 2009 probably eclipses any previous performance. An opaque purple color is followed by an explosive nose of graphite, black currants, licorice, incense, and a hint of black tea. The wine hits the palate with extraordinary density, unctuosity, and richness, yet it never comes across as heavy or overbearing. Deep and full-bodied with sensational concentration as well as remarkable purity and precision, this brilliant wine possesses the high, but sweet tannins that are a hallmark of the vintage, and exceptional delicacy allied to massive power and richness ... a rare combination indeed. This prodigious effort should drink well for 30-40 years. Bravo! (Tasted five times.)
SuduirautEP	2010	12×75cl	£500	10	94-96
The Chateau Suduiraut has a comparatively rich, botrytized bouquet with dried honey, pineapple and a touch of Seville orange marmalade, with exquisite definition and focus. The palate is well-balanced, with a viscous texture and a good level of botrytis, demonstrating fine minerality and tautness. Dried mango, quince and spice all interlace the focused finish, which is long in the mouth. Tasted against its peers, this has a higher level of intensity and focus. A superb follow-up to the sensational 2009
Tourelles de LonguevilleEP	2010	12×75cl	£319	25	90-93
Wine Spectator: 90-93 Jancis Robinson: 16.5

Burgundy
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Bouchard Pere & Fils Chambertin	2009	6×75cl	£850	2	–
(Notes not available)
Bouchard Pere & Fils Corton	2005	6×75cl	£505	3	–
(Notes not available)
Coche Dury Meursault les Caillerets	2007	1×75cl	£250	2	–
(Notes not available)
Comte de Vogue Bonnes Mares	2007	1×150cl	£395	3	93
From a 2.7 ha parcel situated entirely in terres rouges soil in the south west portion of the vineyard A surprisingly expressive nose displays a broad panoply of ripe floral and fruit aromas that include red raspberry, cherry, plum, violet and rose surrounded by warm soil tones that can also be found on the powerful and tautly muscled large scaled flavors blessed with ample underlying reserves of dry extract that render the relatively refined tannins invisible at present on the explosive and exceptionally deep finish where notes of citrus and floral resurface. A seriously impressive wine of Zen-like harmony and poise. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru	2001	6×75cl	£790	4	91
This is slowing transforming itself into a really lovely wine of weight, depth and intensity with a richly detailed, expressive nose and impressively pure and harmonious flavors that offer superb clarity of expression. This is a classical Burgundy lover’s dream with linearity, purity, harmony and simply knock out delineation plus a subtle complexity that is finesse personified. Consistent notes and this is one of those wine that has such balance that it can easily be enjoyed now or held for further development. Personally, I would advise holding it for a few more years but as I note, it can certainly be drunk now with pleasure. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Comtes Lafon Meursault les Genevrieres	2007	12×75cl	£1,590	1	93
By contrast with the expressiveness of the Goutte d’Or, this is much more reserved and with a different aromatic profile more given to seductive and slightly exotic spices, citrus blossom and orange peel that leads to classy, rich, full and naturally sweet palate coating flavors as the dry extract is every bit as impressive. Like all of the Lafon ‘07s, it is the impeccable balance that really sets these wines apart and the Genevrières is a wine of perfect harmony, particularly on the linear and explosive finish. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Comtes Lafon Montrachet	2008	1×75cl	£650	6	93-96
The nose is troubled from the very late malo and thus quite difficult to fairly judge but the broad-shouldered and overtly muscular flavors possess serious power and imposing weight while carrying seemingly buckets of dry extract that really coat and stain the palate on the explosive and hugely long finish. It’s clear that this is much, much less evolved than the other wines in the range and I suspect that it will develop equally slowly in bottle too. Allen Meadows, Burghound
DRC Montrachet	2008	1×75cl	£2,300	1	97
An exceptionally ripe and overtly exotic nose of genuinely mind-boggling complexity displays botrytis notes, pineapple, apricot, mango, spice, white peach and citrus aromas. The broad-shouldered and extremely concentrated flavors are plush and opulent before culminating in an incredibly intense finish that is given lift and shape by the very firm acid spine. This is a massive Montrachet with superb power and the balance and mid-palate concentration will permit it to live for decades. A knockout. Allen Meadows, Burghound
DRC Romanee Conti	2007	1×75cl	£6,200	1	94
An intensely floral nose of rose petal, violets, distinct herbal notes, plum, Asian spices, soy and very fresh, airy and lilting red berry aromas that are cool and assured and complement to perfection the poised, pure and harmonious middle weight flavors that ooze a very fine minerality and are supported by equally fine tannins on the discreet yet stunningly long finish. This is completely Zen in that the ‘wow’ factor is the perfect harmony and proportionality of the elements. Is this one of the best RC’s ever? No. But is it one of the most impressive from the standpoint of understated grace and class? Absolutely. Note that as I mentioned with the La Tâche, there does not appear to be the usual separation between it and the Romanée-Conti versus the other wines in the range in ‘07, at least not yet. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Dujac Bonnes Mares	2008	6×75cl	£1,400	6	94
A cool, stony and reserved nose features spice, dark and red berry fruit, obvious earth and smoked game influences, all of which continue onto the intensely mineral-infused big-bodied flavors that for all the size and power remain beautifully detailed on the focused, powerful and moderately austere finish. This has wonderful potential and should be one of the longest-lived wines among the Dujac ‘08s. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Dujac Clos de la Roche	2007	12×375cl	£975	3	92
This is discreetly floral with an elegant, refined and dense nose of red berry fruit, earth and wisps of anise and clove that precede textured, fresh and mouth coating medium plus weight flavors that possess good richness and solid power, punch, depth and length. Though it would not be my recommendation, this is sufficiently forward that it could actually be drunk now with sufficient aeration. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Emmanuel Rouget Echezeaux	2008	6×75cl	£765	10	91-93
1.06 ha total of 60 to 65 year old vines in the sub-climats of Les Treux, that has .63 ha and in Cruots that has .43 ha, which is also known as Vignes Blanches A wonderfully seductive nose features violets, plum, Asian-style spices, exotic tea, black fruit and subtle floral hints that continue onto the rich, detailed and mouth coating middle weight flavors that are textured, sweet and sappy yet somehow manage to remain delineated and culminate in a highly complex and beautifully well-balanced finish. This should be excellent. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Emmanuel Rouget Nuits Saint George	2009	6×150cl	£590	1	88-91
Discreet wood sets off very fresh and layered aromas of red pinot fruit, anise and a hint of animale that can also be found on the generous, round and naturally sweet medium-bodied flavors that possess fine complexity and excellent vitality, all wrapped in a finer than usual finish that also delivers excellent length. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Emmanuel Rouget Savigny les Beaune	2009	6×150cl	£545	1	87-90
A discreet touch of wood frames pungently earthy wild red berry fruit aromas that complement well the equally earthy, rich and attractively textured middle weight flavors that possess good mid-palate fat that helps to buffer the firm, lingering and solidly complex finish. This is really quite fine for a villages Savigny. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Groffier, Chambertin Clos de Beze	2002	1×75cl	£242	1	91-94
Ample toast and lots of oak spice presently dominates the nose but the big, powerful, surprisingly suave and sappy flavors that are complemented by incredibly intense, concentrated but reserved flavors of astonishing complexity and persistence. The acid/fruit balance is impeccable and this should age for every bit of two decades. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche	2006	12×75cl	£1,600	2	91
Here too there is a mildly macerated nose but with better overall complexity as the layering is impressive and it carries over to the rich, full and very serious flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and focused power that is underpinned by very firm tannins that are bigger and slightly more rustic than those of the Charmes but there is also more buffering material. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Jayer-Gilles Exchezeaux du Dessus	2009	12×75cl	£2,000	2	92-95
A ripe, spicy and exceptionally fresh nose trimmed in subtle wood speaks of red currant and cassis before merging into impressively intense and powerful flavors brimming in dry extract that confers a seductive texture on the focused and muscular finish that is balanced and hugely long. Indeed, there is so much sap that this will be approachable in its youth but should age into a spectacular wine. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Louis Carillon Bienvenues Batard Montrachet	2005	1×75cl	£300	2	94
A distinctly different aromatic profile of slightly mentholated notes accompanied by honeysuckle, citrus and white rose petal aromas trimmed in a deft touch of wood toast that merge into rich, full and unusually powerful broad-shouldered flavors that are also on the understated side despite the size and weight. This is a seriously impressive effort and one of the stars of the vintage. Don’t miss it! Allen Meadows, Burghound
Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Champans	2009	6×75cl	£595	6	93-95
An incredibly complex, fresh and seductively perfumed nose offers up a wonderfully layered set of ripe red berry fruit, cassis, mineral and spice aromas that introduce sappy and lacy yet serious middle weight flavors that possess both excellent power and fine volume, all wrapped in a magnificently long finish. The tannins are quite firm yet they’re also well-integrated as the abundant dry extract pushes them to the background. In a word, sensational. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot	2005	1×75cl	£240	4	94
A very ripe black cherry, pepper and crushed herb nose is trimmed in discreet wood spice that can also be found on the rich to the point of opulent broad-scaled flavors that are strikingly concentrated and oozing with dry extract yet retain a fine sense of precision on the explosively long finish. Méo has been generally looking for a bit more weight and punch with this wine and over the last few vintages and he certainly has achieved it here without sacrificing the elegance that has always characterized the Méo Clos de Vougeot. This most recent bottle seems even slightly more promising than I originally thought and I have upgraded it by one point as well as extended the expected initial drinking window. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Meo-Camuzet Vosne Romanee les Brulees	1996	1×75cl	£245	6	92
The bottle in the tasting was not completely clean on the nose so the note that follows is substituted from another recent example. An airy, spicy, lacy and still very fresh nose reveals almost no secondary development slides into linear and direct flavors that display much better fruit/acid/tannin balance than do many ‘96s culminate in a clean, bright and vibrant finish. I like the solid sense of mid-palate concentration and as such, there is no "hole in the middle" the way some of the less concentrated ‘96s carry themselves. A lovely if not truly brilliant effort. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ponsot Assortiment	2007	12×75cl	£1,800	4	–
2 x Chapelle 2 x Charmes 2 x Clos de Roche VV 94 points 2 x Clos St Denis Tres VV 93-96 points 2 x Griotte Chambertin 93 points 1x Chambertin 91-94 points 1x Clos Vougeot
Ponsot Bourgogne Cuvee Pinson	2009	12×75cl	£195	1	86-89
From Chambolle vines Relatively strong reduction knocks down the nose but there is good freshness and vibrancy to the supple middle weight flavors that possess fine depth and almost no rusticity on the focused, complex and balanced finish. This is really very good and worth keen consideration. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ponsot Chambertin Clos de Beze	2009	6×75cl	£2,555	2	95
An exuberantly spicy nose also features ripe red berry liqueur and earth nuances that are also reflected by the detailed, complex and mineral-suffused big-bodied flavors that possess fine power and real muscle on the focused, balanced, explosive and exceptionally persistent finish. This is really a lovely but extremely firm effort with impeccably well-integrated tannins. Considerable patience required. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ponsot Clos De La Roche	2007	6×75cl	£750	3	94
A magnificently complex nose offers up a mix of both high and medium-toned aromas of mostly red berries but with a panoply of background nuances including leather, tea, underbrush, spice hints, jerky and smoke, most of which transfer to the textured, intense and precise full-bodied flavors that are, somewhat surprisingly, not quite as dense as those of the Clos St. Denis but actually finer (normally it’s the reverse), all wrapped in a hugely long and explosive finish that completely coats the palate with extract, indeed so much of it that this does not seem all that structured yet it will clearly need at least 15 years to be at its best. Note that there was a hair of backend dryness in evidence that I am attributing to the recent bottling. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Rousseau Charmes Chambertin	2005	6×75cl	£890	1	89-92
This too is quite ripe though by no means surmature, offering a mix of black cherry and blue berry accompanied by ample earth and game hints that continue onto the rich, sweet, textured and fleshy flavors that are generous but not soft on the opulent and deep finish. Like the Gevrey, this is more expressive and accessible than usual at this stage though there is an underlying tannic spine that will enable to improve for up to a decade.
Rousseau Clos des Ruchottes	2005	6×75cl	£1,480	1	89-92
Interestingly this is almost like a hypothetical blend of the Charmes and Mazis with the elegance of the Charmes allayed with the power and punch of the Mazis as this too evidences red and blue fruit with an earthy spiciness that slides into rich, full and relatively powerful flavors that possess obvious finishing minerality on the solidly long and palate staining finale. Good stuff here and worth a look. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques	2008	1×75cl	£175	4	93
A discreet touch of wood frames an aromatically fresh, ultra elegant, spicy and bright nose of intense pure pinot fruit, cherry and raspberry notes where both the spice and earth notes continue onto the delicious, rich and full-bodied flavors built on a base of concentrated minerality and stunning length. This is one classy wine that offers impeccable balance and a Zen-like poise. Allen Meadows, Burghound

Champagne
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Barons de Rothschild Champagne Blanc de Blancs	NV	6×75cl	£220	5	–
(Notes not available)
Dom Perignon	1999	6×75cl	£470	10	–
(Notes not available)
Dom Perignon	2002	6×75cl	£435	6	–
(Notes not available)
Louis Roederer Cristal – giftbox	2004	6×75cl	£580	20	–
(Notes not available)
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs	1998	6×75cl	£190	2	–
the wine served at the G20 in London.

Italy
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Borgo Del Tiglio Malvasia Selezionne	2002	6×75cl	£275	1	–
(Notes not available)
Borgo Del Tiglio Ronco della Chiesa – Tocai	2007	6×75cl	£265	4	93
The 2007 Ronco della Chiesa is old-vine Friulano (Tocai) from a hillside vineyard behind the winery. It is a pure, seamless white of the highest level. Layers of fruit, minerals and French oak are all woven together in a fabric of extraordinary grace, purity and elegance. Here the oak is balanced beautifully and the wine reveals no hard edges. The finish is long, round and sumptuous. The 2007 Ronco dell Chiesa could use more time to develop its full breadth of aromas and flavors, but it is pretty impressive even at this early stage. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2017. This is a wonderful set of new releases from Borgo del Tiglio and proprietor Nicola Manferrari. It’s a shame these wines are so hard to find in the US, because they are terrific. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Dal Forno Amarone	2004	6×75cl	£1,130	15	98
The 2004 Amarone della Valpolicella is one of the most monumental young wines I have ever tasted. This is an especially silky, elegant Amarone from Dal Forno that avoids the heaviness of some previous vintages. Blackberry jam, crushed rocks, minerals, violets, new leather and bittersweet chocolate are some of the nuances that emerge over time. This is every bit as majestic as it was every time I tasted it from barrel over the last few years. The silky, exceptionally polished tannins make the 2004 approachable today, but the wine will be even better in a few years. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. These two new releases from Romano Dal Forno are nothing short of extraordinary. Unfortunately readers will have to wait until the Fall for the 2004 Vigna Sere (the wine previously sold as Recioto), one of the most monumental young sweet wines I have ever had the pleasure of tasting...and make no mistake about it, this is a wine I did not spit the last time I sampled it! Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja assortment	1999	6×75cl	£1,250	4	–
2 x Sori San Lorenzo 94 points 2 x Costa Russi 92 points 2 x Sori Tildin 93 points
Gaja assortment	2000	6×75cl	£1,000	1	–
2 x Sori San Lorenzo 95 points 2 x Costa Russi 94 points 2 x Sori Tildin 95 points Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Barbaresco	2000	6×75cl	£570	2	92
The 2000 Barbaresco is beginning to show early tertiary qualities. Smoke, tobacco, cedar and dried cherries are some of the notes that emerge from the glass. Over time the Barbaresco gains a measure of freshness, with pretty floral aromas that weave into the finish. The tannins remain quite firm, and are likely to outlast the fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. Angelo Gaja’s 2000s are a bit of a mystery. The wines were absolutely beautiful upon release and equally impressive when I tasted them a few years later for the 7th edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers Guide. The 2000s were far less convincing when I tasted them in November 2010. All of the wines were initially very reticent and closed. After an hour or two in the glass they opened for about 30 minutes before closing back down again. Gaja thinks the wines are passing through a stage of inaccessibility. If anyone deserves the benefit of the doubt it is Gaja. I can’t remember the last older wine from this cellar that was a disappointment or that hadn’t aged well, and I have been privileged to taste the vast majority of wines that have been made here under Angelo Gaja’s tenure. Time will ultimately tell where these wines are headed, but this was not an especially flattering showing for Gaja’s 2000s. That said, most producers would be thrilled to have wines like these in their cellars. In some ways, Gaja is a victim of his own success. He sets such a high bar with his finest vintages; it is only natural to expect greatness all the time. The 2000s fall a bit short of that mark but are quite strong in the context of the year. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Gaja Barbaresco	2001	6×75cl	£715	7	93
The 2001 Barbaresco is a wine of tremendous harmony that has come together beautifully since I last tasted it six months ago. It presents a very pretty nose of crushed raspberries, spices, and minerals followed by complex dark cherry, tar, menthol and mineral flavors on a delicate, medium-bodied frame of great length. Objectively speaking the single-vineyard wines may be more rich and structured, but it is the Barbaresco this year that really speaks to the soul. If I could only have one wine from this estate in 2001, it would undoubtedly be the terrific Barbaresco. Highly recommended. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2021. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Barbaresco	2004	6×75cl	£700	4	93
The 2004 Barbaresco reveals fresh, perfumed aromatics that lead to layers of crushed flowers, spices and sweet raspberries. This is a wine of rare class, elegance and pure breed. It offers outstanding length and silky, elegant tannins to round out the inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.” Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Costa Russi	1988	1×300cl	£895	1	90
The full-bodied 1988 Costa Russi reveals a purple tinge to its color, as well as a straightforward, rich nose of black fruits and new oak. At present it is more monolithic than the other single vineyard Barbarescos. All of Gaja’s 1988 Barbarescos are backward, reserved wines. Even after sitting four days with the corks pulled they exhibited no signs of oxidation. While they should be uncommonly long-lived, I did not see quite the flesh and richness possessed by such vintages as 1985 and 1982. Robert Parker
Gaja Darmagi Langhe	1999	6×75cl	£585	2	91
The wine press seems to have lost interest in Gaja’s Cabernet Sauvignon, but the 1999 Darmagi is the finest since the duo made in 1988 and 1989. A deep, inky ruby with black berry fruit, light herbs, and sweet oak, it is currently slightly closed up and austere, but with a brooding authority which promises well for the future. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2025. The Wine Advocate
Gaja Sori San Lorenzo	2000	1×150cl	£355	2	95
The 2000 Sori San Lorenzo is another of the standouts of the year. It remains quite youthful, with notable energy in its dark, brooding fruit and considerable tannin. Despite its sheer power, the 2000 isn’t as explosive as it can be. Still, there is little doubt the 2000 Sori San Lorenzo has the stuffing to age well for many years to come. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Sperss	1993	6×75cl	£680	3	–
(Notes not available)
Gaja Sperss	1993	6×75cl	£680	4	–
(Notes not available)
Gaja Sperss	1998	6×75cl	£745	4	–
(Notes not available)
Gaja Sperss	2000	6×75cl	£660	4	94
Gaja’s 2000 Sperss is wonderfully open and radiant. Layers of dark fruit, grilled herbs, cassis and smoke saturate the palate in this powerful, stunningly beautiful Sperss. Gorgeous inner perfume and a long, intense finish round things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Angelo Gaja’s 2000s are a bit of a mystery. The wines were absolutely beautiful upon release and equally impressive when I tasted them a few years later for the 7th edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers Guide. The 2000s were far less convincing when I tasted them in November 2010. All of the wines were initially very reticent and closed. After an hour or two in the glass they opened for about 30 minutes before closing back down again. Gaja thinks the wines are passing through a stage of inaccessibility. If anyone deserves the benefit of the doubt it is Gaja. I can’t remember the last older wine from this cellar that was a disappointment or that hadn’t aged well, and I have been privileged to taste the vast majority of wines that have been made here under Angelo Gaja’s tenure. Time will ultimately tell where these wines are headed, but this was not an especially flattering showing for Gaja’s 2000s. That said, most producers would be thrilled to have wines like these in their cellars. In some ways, Gaja is a victim of his own success. He sets such a high bar with his finest vintages; it is only natural to expect greatness all the time. The 2000s fall a bit short of that mark but are quite strong in the context of the year. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Sperss	2000	6×75cl	£660	5	94
Gaja’s 2000 Sperss is wonderfully open and radiant. Layers of dark fruit, grilled herbs, cassis and smoke saturate the palate in this powerful, stunningly beautiful Sperss. Gorgeous inner perfume and a long, intense finish round things out in style. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Angelo Gaja’s 2000s are a bit of a mystery. The wines were absolutely beautiful upon release and equally impressive when I tasted them a few years later for the 7th edition of Parker’s Wine Buyers Guide. The 2000s were far less convincing when I tasted them in November 2010. All of the wines were initially very reticent and closed. After an hour or two in the glass they opened for about 30 minutes before closing back down again. Gaja thinks the wines are passing through a stage of inaccessibility. If anyone deserves the benefit of the doubt it is Gaja. I can’t remember the last older wine from this cellar that was a disappointment or that hadn’t aged well, and I have been privileged to taste the vast majority of wines that have been made here under Angelo Gaja’s tenure. Time will ultimately tell where these wines are headed, but this was not an especially flattering showing for Gaja’s 2000s. That said, most producers would be thrilled to have wines like these in their cellars. In some ways, Gaja is a victim of his own success. He sets such a high bar with his finest vintages; it is only natural to expect greatness all the time. The 2000s fall a bit short of that mark but are quite strong in the context of the year. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Sperss	2004	6×75cl	£725	2	96
Gaja’s 2004 Langhe Sperss is an infant. Still incredibly primary, it exudes the essence of Serralunga black fruits, smoke and tar. The new oak is still very evident here and the wine seems to be at an awkward phase of its development. Still, it offers stunning concentration as well as length, with soft, caressing tannins that frame the fruit all the way to the long finish. This wine is in need of serious bottle age and may very well merit a higher score once it emerges from its temporary period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.
Giacomo Conterno Barbera d’Alba Cascina Francia	2004	12×75cl	£390	1	93
Readers who find the style of the 2003 too extreme will delight in a more balanced 2004 Barbera d’Alba. It is a stunning effort, showing expressive nuances of flowers and spices on the nose followed by an utterly seductive explosion of sweet fruit, tar, licorice and pomegranate sensations, with superb length and a finish that lasts forever. Graceful and poised, this supremely elegant Barbera will redefine for many the heights the varietal can achieve. It will show at its best when served in a glass suitable for Nebbiolo or Pinot Noir. Anticipated maturity: 2006-2014. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2006	12×75cl	£1,000	2	96
The 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia is a deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness, inner perfume and structure. From cask this has always been an intense, inward Barolo and now that it is in bottle, those qualities seem even more prominent. Over time, the classic Cascina Francia bouquet of roses, tar, herbs and licorice comes forward, but only reluctantly. A massive wall of tannins prevents the fruit from emerging, but every now and then the wine shows hints of its ultimate potential. The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful for its balance and inner sense of harmony. The 2006 is not as showy young as other recent great vintages such as 2001 or 2004, so I will not be surprised if it is overlooked, but it is a magnificent Barolo that only needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2046. Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2006	6×75cl	£545	8	96
he 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia is a deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness, inner perfume and structure. From cask this has always been an intense, inward Barolo and now that it is in bottle, those qualities seem even more prominent. Over time, the classic Cascina Francia bouquet of roses, tar, herbs and licorice comes forward, but only reluctantly. A massive wall of tannins prevents the fruit from emerging, but every now and then the wine shows hints of its ultimate potential. The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful for its balance and inner sense of harmony. The 2006 is not as showy young as other recent great vintages such as 2001 or 2004, so I will not be surprised if it is overlooked, but it is a magnificent Barolo that only needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2046. Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2006	12×75cl	£985	2	96
The 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia is a deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness, inner perfume and structure. From cask this has always been an intense, inward Barolo and now that it is in bottle, those qualities seem even more prominent. Over time, the classic Cascina Francia bouquet of roses, tar, herbs and licorice comes forward, but only reluctantly. A massive wall of tannins prevents the fruit from emerging, but every now and then the wine shows hints of its ultimate potential. The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful for its balance and inner sense of harmony. The 2006 is not as showy young as other recent great vintages such as 2001 or 2004, so I will not be surprised if it is overlooked, but it is a magnificent Barolo that only needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2046. Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2007	6×75cl	£400	5	96
The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is an unusual version of this benchmark wine. In 2007 Conterno decided against bottling his Monfortino. Conterno believes Nebbiolo can handle rain and humidity (hence his decision to make Monfortino in rainy years such as 1987 and 2002), but not drought. The result is a Cascina Francia that is unusually dark, rich and powerful. The floral, herbal notes that are typical in young Cascina Francia have been replaced by deeper notes of tar, smoke and licorice to match the layers of intense dark fruit. The 2007 is powerful and imposing from start to finish. It is going to be a fascinating Barolo to follow over the coming years and decades. Cascina Francia is often accessible for the first year or two after it has been bottled. That has not been my experience with the 2007. It seems already headed for a period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037. The drive from Barolo to Monforte was a little different this year. Peering across the valley over the hillside where the Conterno winery sits, the observant eye will notice a number of large barrels outside the main building. Roberto Conterno had no choice but to replace a number of his casks this year as the staves had begun to bend from many years of use, and Conterno was understandably afraid of the unthinkable, that the casks could finally yield to old age full of wine. Still, he was clearly upset by having to replace barrels that he personally moved into the new winery with his father during the summer of 1985. Just to think of the wines that were racked during that move. The 1978, 1979 and 1982 Monfortini were still in cask. To be honest, seeing the empty space in the winery as the new casks were about to arrive was quite a shock. The wines, however, were not. I tasted all of the wines currently in cask plus the new releases from bottle. My high expectations were easily surpassed. Conterno fans have a lot to look forward to. Roberto Conterno has decided to give his new Nebbiolo from the Cerretta vineyard another year in barrel. At the moment Conterno is leaning towards releasing the 2009 as a Langhe Nebbiolo rather than Barolo, although that could always change. Readers who want to learn more about the 2011 harvest at Conterno may want to take a look at my video interview with Roberto Conterno. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	1967	6×75cl	£3,260	5	92
Conterno’s 1967 Barolo Riserva Monfortino presented a more advanced set of leather, spice and stewed prunes in a delicate, understated style. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	2002	1×300cl	£1,210	2	98
Conterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052. Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	2002	6×75cl	£1,655	5	98
Conterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052. Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	2002	6×75cl	£1,680	1	98
Conterno’s 2002 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is a legend in the making, or now that it is in bottle, it may be more correct to simply say it is a legend. The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto Conterno created quite a stir when they announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002, a year in which most of the harvest in Piedmont was severely compromised by a cold summer and devastating hail in early September. But there was more. The Conternos not only announced that they would make their Monfortino in 2002 but no Barolo Cascina Francia for the first time ever in the estate’s history. In a bit of defiance towards the press, the Conternos then announced no one would be allowed to taste the wine from barrel. Over the years, this stance softened. Visitors lucky enough to visit the cellars and sample the wine from cask knew what was in store. Simply put, the 2002 Monfortino is stratospheric. A dark, imposing, but sensual wine, it flows from the glass with a breathtaking array of dried roses, autumn leaves, wild cherries, plums, new leather, espresso, licorice and spices, showing phenomenal depth, richness and balance. The tension between the luxuriousness of the fruit and the austerity of the vintage is truly captivating. I have tasted the 2002 Monfortino multiple times from barrel and bottle. At times it has reminded me of what I imagine the 1971 tasted like upon release, at other times it has seemed more similar to 1978. According to Giovanni Conterno, the 2002 reminded him of the 1971. Either way, the wine is extraordinary. The 2002 Monfortino is the result of the cold vintage that was typical of Piedmont up until the mid 1980s. In many ways, it is a throwback to wines that can’t be made anymore in Piedmont. Roberto Conterno thought so highly of the 2002 Monfortino he gave the wine an extra year in barrrel. And of course, there is one sad footnote. The world lost Giovanni Conterno to cancer in 2004, but he made sure his last Monfortino was at least equal, if not better, than his most monumental wines. There is little doubt the 2002 Monfortino will soon take its place as one of the greatest Monfortinos ever made. It is the most fitting last chapter to the life of one of the world’s greatest winemakers. As always, I suggest readers who have an interest in Monfortino taste the wine as soon as possible, as it will soon head into a period of dormancy, which in this vintage may last several decades. One of my favorite vintages for current drinking is the 1970, which still looks to have another 30 years of fine drinking ahead of it! Anticipated maturity: 2027-2052. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	2004	6×75cl	£1,945	1	100
The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can’t escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2044. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giuseppe Mascarello Monprivato	2006	6×74cl	£275	10	96
Mascarello’s 2006 Barolo Monprivato is incredibly primary at this stage. The 2006 is an explosive Monprivato endowed with layers of ripe red fruit backed up by firm, muscular tannins that speak with great eloquence. I expect the 2006 to go through a period of stubbornness – as it often does – but it should begin to show well at around age ten or so. From time to time, the wine shows glimpses of its nobility. The 2006 is shaping up to be a profound Monprivato. The only thing it needs is time. This is a fabulous effort from Mascarello. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2036. Proprietor Mauro Mascarello makes some of the most compelling, traditional wines in Piedmont. Mascarello’s signature Barolo, Monprivato, rarely shows well when young, yet it has a proven ability to transform magically in the bottle, something I have witnessed first-hand with more vintages than I can remember. The irony is that by the time the wines start showing well they are long gone from the market or have appreciated dramatically in price. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Guidalberto Tenuta San Guido	2007	6×75cl	£130	3	92
The 2007 Guidalberto is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with most of the fruit coming from a property adjacent to the vineyards used for Sassicaia. About 20% of the wine consists of declassified barrels of Sassicaia. The 2007 Guidalberto is another sexy, ripe offering from Tenuta San Guido. The wine reveals gorgeous inner perfume and endless layers of fruit that coat the palate all the way through to the long finish. The 2007 is not likely to be as long-lived as the 2006, but I doubt that will be much of a problem as these bottles are likely to be long gone by the time ageability becomes an issue. Readers will have a very hard time keeping their hands off this irresistible, sensual, opulent wine. The 2007 is another blockbuster Guidalberto! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a superb set of releases from Tenuta San Guido, the estate that put Maremma on the map as a terroir for world-class wine. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Guidalberto Tenuta San Guido	2007	6×75cl	£130	6	92
The 2007 Guidalberto is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with most of the fruit coming from a property adjacent to the vineyards used for Sassicaia. About 20% of the wine consists of declassified barrels of Sassicaia. The 2007 Guidalberto is another sexy, ripe offering from Tenuta San Guido. The wine reveals gorgeous inner perfume and endless layers of fruit that coat the palate all the way through to the long finish. The 2007 is not likely to be as long-lived as the 2006, but I doubt that will be much of a problem as these bottles are likely to be long gone by the time ageability becomes an issue. Readers will have a very hard time keeping their hands off this irresistible, sensual, opulent wine. The 2007 is another blockbuster Guidalberto! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a superb set of releases from Tenuta San Guido, the estate that put Maremma on the map as a terroir for world-class wine. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Guidalberto Tenuta San Guido	2009	6×75cl	£120	7	92
The 2009 Guidalberto flows across the palate with layers of radiant red fruit. This is another striking, supple Guidalberto loaded with personality. Stylistically it is quite close to the 2007, but with perhaps a touch less body but equally silky, polished tannins. Freshly cut roses, spices and a burst of pure red berries add nuance on the finish. Guidalberto is no longer the stunning value it once was, but it is quite gorgeous in this vintage just the same. This is easily one of the best vintages I can recall tasting. Guidalberto is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Tenuta San Guido is on a roll these days. Over the last few years, the estate has released a number of hugely delicious wines. These new releases are nicely aligned with their respective vintages. The entry-level Le Difese and Guidalberto both capture the essence of a sunny year that made wines well suited to near-term drinking, while the 2008 Sassicaia captures the potential of a powerful vintage characterized by low yields and a late harvest. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Kuenhof Veltliner	2008	6×75cl	£125	3	91
The 2008 Veltliner is a gorgeous, multi-dimensional wine layered with scents of white peaches, earthiness, minerals, flowers and mint. The wine achieves gorgeous textural beauty and richness while maintaining the essential linearity that is a hallmark of the wines from this part of Alto Adige. This is a terrific effort. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2012. I was very impressed with the wines I tasted this year from Kuenhof, a small estate located in Bressanone, in the northern reaches of Alto Adige. I am told the US allocation of these wines is just a few cases, but hopefully readers elsewhere will be able to latch on to a few bottles of these wonderful whites. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Le Difese Tenuta San Guido	2007	6×75cl	£90	3	90
The entry-level 2007 Le Difese is one of the finest values in Tuscany. I can’t think of too many wines that deliver this level of quality for the money. A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Sangiovese, the wine reveals gorgeous purity in its sweet, perfumed fruit. This is an especially opulent, generous Le Difese that is simply delicious. I suppose the tannins could use a touch more polish, but that is splitting hairs at this level. The wine delivers incredible pleasure and even better, happens to be a great value. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2014. This is a superb set of releases from Tenuta San Guido, the estate that put Maremma on the map as a terroir for world-class wine. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Le Difese Tenuta San Guido	2009	6×75cl	£85	4	90
The 2009 Le Difese is a gorgeous, radiant wine brimming with dark red fruit. Sweet spices, leather and licorice come together beautifully in this exotic, generous red. Hints of mocha and espresso add complexity on the round, silky finish. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2017. Tenuta San Guido is on a roll these days. Over the last few years, the estate has released a number of hugely delicious wines. These new releases are nicely aligned with their respective vintages. The entry-level Le Difese and Guidalberto both capture the essence of a sunny year that made wines well suited to near-term drinking, while the 2008 Sassicaia captures the potential of a powerful vintage characterized by low yields and a late harvest. Tenuta San Guido is one of Italy’s historic estates. The top wine, Sassicaia, was one of the country’s first icon wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	1994	6×75cl	£1,865	2	91
The rich 1994 Masseto is a Merlot-dominated cuvee with lavish quantities of spicy new oak. In addition to the obvious pain grille notes, the Masseto exhibits less evolution than the 1995 Ornellaia. This full-bodied, spicy, rich wine cuts a broad swath on the palate. It requires another 12-18 months of bottle age, after which it should continue to improve for a decade. It will last for 15 or more years. The "other" Antinori continues to turn out stunning wines from this small estate in Bolgheri on the Tuscan coast. The omnipresent Michel Rolland is the consultant, and that is evident in the rich texture, and ripe, concentrated style of this wine. Robert Parker
Masseto	1995	6×75cl	£2,200	3	–
(Notes not available)
Masseto	1996	6×75cl	£2,000	1	–
(Notes not available)
Masseto	1999	1×150cl	£775	3	95
With the 1999 vintage Masseto returns to another powerful, fresh and vibrant expression of this wine. Conveying an impression of youth, the 1999 Masseto reveals layers of dark fruit that open in the glass with much persistence on the palate and terrific overall balance. It is stunning vintage for this wine. 95/ Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. The 100% Merlot Masseto, on the other hand, has proven to be a wine of greater singularity. Its unique, unmistakable personality always comes through, especially in a set of widely diverse vintages, as this vertical attests. The Masseto vineyard measures roughly 7 hectares. Set on a gently sloping hill, the vineyard is divided into three sections which contain different clay-based soil types. The structure of Masseto comes from the central portion of the vineyard (Masseto Centrale), where the terrain is most compact. Towards the upper part of the hillside (Masseto Alto) the soils contain a higher percentage of rocks and thus yield wines that are more aromatic. The lower stretch of the vineyard, known as “Masseto Junior,” is also the most recent to be planted. According to Raspini the fruit from these vines bridges the qualities of the wines from the central and upper portions of the vineyard and thus serves to give Masseto its finesse and balance. There is also a small amount of fruit that comes from the “Vigna Vecchia” plot which is the source of the Merlot that is used for Ornellaia. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration typically last around 25 days, give or take, depending on the quality of the fruit, after which the wines are moved into 100% new French oak barrels for the malolactic fermentations. The wines spend 12 months in oak prior to being assembled, after which the final blend spends an additional 12 months in oak prior to being bottled. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	2000	1×150cl	£575	3	91
Readers looking for a more mature Masseto might want to consider the 2000. It presents a more evolved set of earth, tobacco and roasted coffee bean aromas and flavors along with ripe dark fruit. Although it displays plenty of concentration and length on the palate its slightly coarse tannins are those of a merely good, but not great vintage. 91/Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. The 100% Merlot Masseto, on the other hand, has proven to be a wine of greater singularity. Its unique, unmistakable personality always comes through, especially in a set of widely diverse vintages, as this vertical attests. The Masseto vineyard measures roughly 7 hectares. Set on a gently sloping hill, the vineyard is divided into three sections which contain different clay-based soil types. The structure of Masseto comes from the central portion of the vineyard (Masseto Centrale), where the terrain is most compact. Towards the upper part of the hillside (Masseto Alto) the soils contain a higher percentage of rocks and thus yield wines that are more aromatic. The lower stretch of the vineyard, known as “Masseto Junior,” is also the most recent to be planted. According to Raspini the fruit from these vines bridges the qualities of the wines from the central and upper portions of the vineyard and thus serves to give Masseto its finesse and balance. There is also a small amount of fruit that comes from the “Vigna Vecchia” plot which is the source of the Merlot that is used for Ornellaia. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration typically last around 25 days, give or take, depending on the quality of the fruit, after which the wines are moved into 100% new French oak barrels for the malolactic fermentations. The wines spend 12 months in oak prior to being assembled, after which the final blend spends an additional 12 months in oak prior to being bottled. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	2003	1×150cl	£780	1	93
The 2003 Masseto opens with a huge, expressive super-ripe nose. Ample and expansive on the palate, it displays much opulence in its generous fruit, with awesome concentration, outstanding length and a lovely vein of minerality which provides a level of freshness that is surprising for the vintage. A lingering note of sweetness punctuates the long finish. It should drink well for at least another decade, although it is absolutely irresistible today. It is a stunning wine. Owing to the challenging nature of the vintage, in 2003 Masseto was made only from the central part of the vineyard which is planted with the oldest vines. 93/Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. The 100% Merlot Masseto, on the other hand, has proven to be a wine of greater singularity. Its unique, unmistakable personality always comes through, especially in a set of widely diverse vintages, as this vertical attests. The Masseto vineyard measures roughly 7 hectares. Set on a gently sloping hill, the vineyard is divided into three sections which contain different clay-based soil types. The structure of Masseto comes from the central portion of the vineyard (Masseto Centrale), where the terrain is most compact. Towards the upper part of the hillside (Masseto Alto) the soils contain a higher percentage of rocks and thus yield wines that are more aromatic. The lower stretch of the vineyard, known as “Masseto Junior,” is also the most recent to be planted. According to Raspini the fruit from these vines bridges the qualities of the wines from the central and upper portions of the vineyard and thus serves to give Masseto its finesse and balance. There is also a small amount of fruit that comes from the “Vigna Vecchia” plot which is the source of the Merlot that is used for Ornellaia. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration typically last around 25 days, give or take, depending on the quality of the fruit, after which the wines are moved into 100% new French oak barrels for the malolactic fermentations. The wines spend 12 months in oak prior to being assembled, after which the final blend spends an additional 12 months in oak prior to being bottled. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	2008	6×75cl	£1,700	15	96
The 2008 Masseto comes across as relatively reserved and along the lines of vintages like 1988 that age beautifully but aren’t the blockbuster type wines usually associated with Maremma. Freshly cut flowers, crushed rocks, spices and black cherries are some of the aromas and flavors that emerge from the 2008. This is an exceptionally beautiful Masseto that impresses for its elegance. The wine fleshes out nicely in the glass, while retaining its refined personality. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is another strong set of wines from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. The 2008 Ornellaia is back to its usual high level after a slightly perplexing 2007, while the 2008 Masseto is another in a fine line of vintages for this Tuscan icon. Readers should be on the lookout for a complete vertical of Masseto, back to the inaugural 1986 Il Merlot dell’Ornellaia, which will be posted on www.erobertparker.com in the coming weeks. Needless to say, it was an amazing tasting. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Ornellaia	1990	1×150cl	£375	1	94
The 1990 Ornellaia (magnum) foreshadows an opulent style that would become the norm in future years. A rich, dense Ornellaia, the 1990 offers exceptional balance in its expressive bouquet, ripe fruit and beautifully balanced acidity. Earthiness, licorice, smoke and menthol linger on the elegant finish. In 1990 temperatures were unusually warm toward the end of the growing season, which comes through in the wine’s generous, open personality. The 1990 Ornellaia is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 15 months in French oak, 40% of which was new. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Ornellaia	1997	6×75cl	£1,100	2	94
Probably the finest (and most sumptuous) Ornellaia yet produced, the 1997 has it all. A dense purple color offers up smoky espresso and jammy black cherry aromas wrapped in new oak. Full-bodied, opulent, thick, and juicy, this low acid, seamless classic can be drunk now and over the next 15+ years. Robert Parker
Ornellaia	1998	6×75cl	£775	5	89
The 1998 Ornellaia (magnum) is the least impressive vintage in this flight. Hints of oxidation come through in notes of beef bouillon and mushroom, suggesting that either the wine has not developed particularly well in bottle or this is not a perfect example. Ideally, the 1998 is best enjoyed sooner rather than later. In 1998 the blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc is 5%. The wine spent 18 months in French oak, 50% new. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2011. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Ornellaia	1998	6×75cl	£850	3	91
The 1998 is a decidedly slender Ornellaia. More advanced than the 1999, it shows notes of tobacco, herbs and ripe fruit on a medium-bodied frame with good length on the palate and slightly less polished tannins than is usually the case. The final blend in 1998 was 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. 91/Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Ornellaia is a Bordeaux-inspired blend consisting principally of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. In 2003 a small percentage of Petit Verdot was introduced. The use of several varietals gives the winemaking team the luxury of being able to tailor the exact proportion of the blend to the specific strengths of a given vintage. Because the blend tends to vary from year to year in a vertical tasting Ornellaia shows many different facets of its personality. After harvest the varietals are vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration lasts between 25-30 days after which the wines are moved into French oak barrels where they age for 12 months. The wines are then racked and assembled into the final blend, which spends an additional six months in barrel prior to being bottled. The percentage of new oak has risen from 50%, which was used for vintages 1997 and 1998, to 60% used in 1999, to the 70% the estate has employed since 2000. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco	2005	6×75cl	£135	3	91
Once again, the Produttori have turned out a gem in their 2005 Barbaresco. A beautiful, perfumed Nebbiolo, the wine flows effortlessly from the glass with captivating notes of crushed flowers, raspberries, sweet herbs and spices. This classic, mid-weight Barbaresco possesses plenty of clean, bright fruit framed by elegant tannins, showing notable harmony. Simply put, this is a classic wine Piedmont lovers won’t want to miss. Ideally, the wine should be cellared for a few years, but readers will have a hard time exercising such patience. This is Lot 8.115. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Managing Director Aldo Vacca had some interesting things to say about the 2005 vintage in Barbaresco. “I wasn’t initially convinced about the quality of the vintage until I had the wines fermenting in the cellar, something I also experienced in 1978,” says Vacca. “ The summer wasn’t especially hot, but the Fall was gorgeous, and our harvest took place during the second half of October. Given that yields were on the high side, I felt we needed to be especially selective in the cellar, so we produced roughly 30% less of some of our Riservas by using only the best individual lots for wines like our Ovello, Montestefano and Moccagatta Riservas. Any lots we weren’t thrilled about went into our non-Riserva Barbaresco. In 2004 vineyard exposures were a huge factor in determining maturity, while 2005 was perhaps a touch more consistent throughout, but without the complexity and structure of the 2004s.” Readers who have a hard time finding the 2004s, shouldn’t fret, as the Produttori will also release Riservas for the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages, so there will be plenty of wine in the pipeline over the next few years. Given the weakness in the US dollar, readers may want to quickly snap up any remaining stocks of the 2001 Riservas as well.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco	2006	12×75cl	£215	5	92
The 2006 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, generous Barbaresco loaded with ripe dark fruit. This is an especially harmonious, refined Barbaresco from the Produttori that is also somewhat unusual for its dark, brooding personality. Licorice, leather and tar linger on the powerful finish. Today the wine is remarkable for its depth and concentration, while the aromatic complexity will develop in bottle. If the regular Barbaresco holds this much power, I can only wonder what the Riservas might have in store. Simply put, this is a marvelous effort. This is Lot 9.125 Anticipated maturity: 2011-2031. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco	2006	12×75cl	£215	8	92
The 2006 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, generous Barbaresco loaded with ripe dark fruit. This is an especially harmonious, refined Barbaresco from the Produttori that is also somewhat unusual for its dark, brooding personality. Licorice, leather and tar linger on the powerful finish. Today the wine is remarkable for its depth and concentration, while the aromatic complexity will develop in bottle. If the regular Barbaresco holds this much power, I can only wonder what the Riservas might have in store. Simply put, this is a marvelous effort. This is Lot 9.125 Anticipated maturity: 2011-2031. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£180	1	93
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is sweet, sensual and perfumed. Today the wine remains extremely reticent, but the tannins show extraordinary purity and silkiness, suggesting the only thing missing is time. For now the 2005 Asili shows great integrity in its dark red fruit, with notable persistence on the palate and a round, powerful close. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£180	1	93
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is sweet, sensual and perfumed. Today the wine remains extremely reticent, but the tannins show extraordinary purity and silkiness, suggesting the only thing missing is time. For now the 2005 Asili shows great integrity in its dark red fruit, with notable persistence on the palate and a round, powerful close. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Paje	2005	6×75cl	£200	1	91
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Paje opens with a blast of tar, menthol and smoke that leads to dark cherries, plums, leather and licorice. This is an especially powerful, shut-down Barbaresco at this stage, but with time in bottle the layers should fill out quite nicely. Today it remains compact and in need of further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabaja	2005	6×75cl	£200	1	–
(Notes not available)
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo	2009	12×75cl	£150	2	89
The 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo is made from the coop’s youngest vines and given a relatively short six months in large neutral oak. This mid-weight, juicy Nebbiolo is sleek and refined in its floral red fruit and spices, with good intensity and terrific overall balance. It is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£205	2	90
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta is one of the more compact, linear wines in this vintage. The Moccagatta offers up sensations of bright red fruits, flowers, spices and vanilla in a rather unyielding style. The wine should improve in bottle but the tannins will likely always remain somewhat firm. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£205	1	93
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is simply beautiful in the way it combines elements of florality and structure, which makes it one of the more complex, multi-faceted wines in 2005. Sweet roses blossom on the palate, followed by succulent ripe raspberries, mint and baking spices. As the wine sits in the glass the layers continue to fill out, revealing a wine of first-class pedigree. This is an exceptional effort from the Produttori! Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello	2005	6×75cl	£200	1	92
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is usually one of the more reticent of the estate’s Riservas, but in 2005 it is especially unyielding. Still firm and tightly wound, the wine possesses notable detail and clarity in its fruit in a focused, compact style. Based on previous experience, I may very well be underestimating this wine, but only time will tell for sure. After several hours the Ovello opened up nicely and my impression is it will develop into a splendid Barbaresco?with time. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines.
Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£145	2	92
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is wonderfully layered in its dark cherries, spices, menthol, licorice and minerals. The medium-bodied Pora is one of the firmer and more linear Riservas in 2005. Still, it shows exceptional balance in a powerful style that will require a measure of patience. Here, too, the finish is wonderfully elegant. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£205	2	92
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo jumps from the glass with an exciting array of freshly cut roses, spices and raspberries. The 2005 is an especially dense, rich Rio Sordo endowed with superb depth and great overall balance. Floral notes accompany the wine from start to finish in an irresistible display of the perfume that makes Barbaresco such a sexy wine. In 2005 the Rio Sordo is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Quintarelli Amarone	2000	6×75cl	£985	3	96
The 2000 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico is a thing of beauty. This mid-weight, delicate red offers up a gorgeous array of crushed flowers, red berries and sweet spices in an ethereal style. As it sits in the glass the wine acquires concentration and richness. The wine possesses the grace of a ballerina, phenomenal balance and impeccable pedigree. In this vintage the Amarone shows suggestions of slightly newer barrels, and that may be why this is the first non-Riserva Amarone I can recall in at least a few years that doesn’t show the excess volatile acidity that has marred some previous wines. To be sure, this is a super-traditional, cask-aged Amarone, and it may not appeal to all palates, but readers in search of fine old-school Amarone won’t find a better wine among this year’s new releases. In time this score may very well go up...quite a bit. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. It’s always a bit of a challenge to keep up with Giuseppe Quintarelli as he doesn’t follow a predictable schedule; the wines are simply released when he feels they are ready. Originally the 2000 Alzero was scheduled to be released this fall, but work in the vineyards pushed back the timetable a few months and I wasn’t able to taste the wine in time for this article. I have had the pleasure and privilege of drinking a number of Quintarelli’s older, benchmark wines over the last few months, and at their best, they have no peers. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Barolo le Vigne	2000	6×75cl	£315	2	93
The 2000 Barolo Le Vigne is made from parcels across multiple vineyards, which is always an advantage in challenging vintages. The 2000 Le Vigne is fresher and more delineated than the Cannubi Boschis, although it lacks that wine’s sheer pedigree. Pretty floral notes are woven into a textured fabric of red fruit and spices. There is just enough freshness for this to continue to drink well for a handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. I can still remember tasting Luciano Sandrone’s 2000 Baroli when they were young. The wines were unusually soft, seamless and pleasurable. Today Sandrone’s 2000s are more advanced than I had hoped or expected, which is somewhat of a disappointment as I own bottles of the 2000 Cannubi Boschis. I also own bottles of older vintages going back to 1988, and it is pretty clear the 2000 falls short of the standard this winery established in its truly great vintages, both before and after. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Barolo le Vigne	2002	6×75cl	£355	2	93
The 2000 Barolo Le Vigne is made from parcels across multiple vineyards, which is always an advantage in challenging vintages. The 2000 Le Vigne is fresher and more delineated than the Cannubi Boschis, although it lacks that wine’s sheer pedigree. Pretty floral notes are woven into a textured fabric of red fruit and spices. There is just enough freshness for this to continue to drink well for a handful of years. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2018. I can still remember tasting Luciano Sandrone’s 2000 Baroli when they were young. The wines were unusually soft, seamless and pleasurable. Today Sandrone’s 2000s are more advanced than I had hoped or expected, which is somewhat of a disappointment as I own bottles of the 2000 Cannubi Boschis. I also own bottles of older vintages going back to 1988, and it is pretty clear the 2000 falls short of the standard this winery established in its truly great vintages, both before and after. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Barolo le Vigne	2003	6×75cl	£315	12	93
The 2003 Barolo Le Vigne may have a slight edge over the Cannubi Boschis in this vintage, as the ability to blend fruit from various microclimates was a big advantage. It is a full-bodied, soft-textured Barolo with lively color and plenty of ripe red fruit, menthol and spices. This is an especially fresh, vibrant wine for the vintage, with tannins that are particularly refined. A recent vertical of Le Vigne back to 1995 found the 1995, 1997 and 1998 drinking well and the 1996, 1999, 2000 and 2001 approachable, but still with additional upside potential. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2015. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Barolo le Vigne	2004	6×75cl	£425	1	96
The 2004 Barolo Le Vigne is a phenomenal effort. Sweet, long and pure, it reveals an expansive core of perfumed ripe red fruit, flowers and spices. Despite its notable concentration it is made in a restrained style, showing remarkable elegance as well as harmony, with superb length and finessed tannins on the close. Le Vigne is made from the Ceretta, Vignane, Merli and Conterni vineyards. I have tasted the wines from these plots separately on many occasions. Curiously, I have never been particularly impressed by any of the wines on their own, yet when they are blended the results can be extraordinary, as is the case with the sublime 2004 Le Vigne. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2019. Luciano Sandrone has been ecstatic about the quality of his 2004s since I first tasted the wines with him in the winter of that year. While 2004 is a superb vintage overall, Sandrone’s wines stand out, most notably for their extraordinary elegance. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Barolo le Vigne	2006	1×150cl	£140	8	96
The 2007 Barolo Le Vigne presents a beguiling combination of explosive, ripe fruit and finessed silky tannins that make it a thrilling wine to taste, even at this stage in its development. Small red berries, minerals, crushed flowers, vanillin and sweet spices are woven together in a fabric of undescribable elegance. The French oak has never been better balanced, while the vibrant, crystalline finish leaves a lasting impression. The 2007 Le Vigne has all the potential to develop into a spectacular wine?actually, it already is. This is a totally stunning bottle of Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2027. Luciano Sandrone’s wines have never been more elegant than they are today. The French oak is increasingly well balanced, and the at times excessive heaviness of some prior vintages is long gone. Simply put, Luciano Sandrone is at the top of his game. Never one to be satisfied, this year Sandrone showed me a number of experimental wines, including a barrel sample of 2009 Cannubi Boschis vinified with 100% stems, an approach that is virtually unheard of in Piedmont. Although this wine will ultimately be blended into the Cannubi Boschis, the all-stems Barolo was huge, explosive and totally compelling. Sandrone fans have much to look forward to, as the 2008s and 2009s appear quite promising at this admittedly early stage. As for the 2007s, they are off the charts. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Cannubi Boschis	2005	1×300cl	£435	1	95
Sandrone’s 2005 Barolo Cannubi Boschis offers up pretty notes of mint, flowers, spices and dark red berries, with sweet notes of French oak that linger on the finish. This is a decidedly slender Cannubi Boschis that lacks some of the sheer pedigree and explosiveness of the best vintages. The tannins need some time to soften, but this is a wine that has continued to grow in bottle. It could very well turn out to be one of the vintage’s surprises. In 2005 the harvest took place at the end of September and the wine was aged in 500-liter barrels (one-third new). Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. A visit with Luciano Sandrone is always a highlight of my tastings in Piedmont. As usual, I spent quite a bit of time tasting through the 2006s, 2007s, and 2008s, and I am happy to report that Sandrone has a number of exciting wines in the cellar at this stage. Even though Sandrone is one of the earliest producers to bottle his Barolos, the 2005s have only recently begun to show their true potential. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Cannubi Boschis	2005	6×75cl	£520	5	95
Sandrone’s 2005 Barolo Cannubi Boschis offers up pretty notes of mint, flowers, spices and dark red berries, with sweet notes of French oak that linger on the finish. This is a decidedly slender Cannubi Boschis that lacks some of the sheer pedigree and explosiveness of the best vintages. The tannins need some time to soften, but this is a wine that has continued to grow in bottle. It could very well turn out to be one of the vintage’s surprises. In 2005 the harvest took place at the end of September and the wine was aged in 500-liter barrels (one-third new). Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. A visit with Luciano Sandrone is always a highlight of my tastings in Piedmont. As usual, I spent quite a bit of time tasting through the 2006s, 2007s, and 2008s, and I am happy to report that Sandrone has a number of exciting wines in the cellar at this stage. Even though Sandrone is one of the earliest producers to bottle his Barolos, the 2005s have only recently begun to show their true potential. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Cannubi Boschis	2005	1×150cl	£205	1	95
Sandrone’s 2005 Barolo Cannubi Boschis offers up pretty notes of mint, flowers, spices and dark red berries, with sweet notes of French oak that linger on the finish. This is a decidedly slender Cannubi Boschis that lacks some of the sheer pedigree and explosiveness of the best vintages. The tannins need some time to soften, but this is a wine that has continued to grow in bottle. It could very well turn out to be one of the vintage’s surprises. In 2005 the harvest took place at the end of September and the wine was aged in 500-liter barrels (one-third new). Anticipated maturity: 2011-2020. A visit with Luciano Sandrone is always a highlight of my tastings in Piedmont. As usual, I spent quite a bit of time tasting through the 2006s, 2007s, and 2008s, and I am happy to report that Sandrone has a number of exciting wines in the cellar at this stage. Even though Sandrone is one of the earliest producers to bottle his Barolos, the 2005s have only recently begun to show their true potential. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Cannubi Boschis	2007	3×150cl	£540	2	97
The 2007 Barolo Cannubi Boschis dazzles from start to finish. It shows marvelous delineation and freshness in its voluptuous, harmonious fruit, with no hard edges and an expansive, textured personality that conquers both the palate and intellect. Here, too, the oak is very well integrated, while the wine’s balance and overall sense of harmony are nothing short of stunning. This is one of the very finest vintages of Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Cannubi Boschis	2007	6×75cl	£525	6	97
The 2007 Barolo Cannubi Boschis dazzles from start to finish. It shows marvelous delineation and freshness in its voluptuous, harmonious fruit, with no hard edges and an expansive, textured personality that conquers both the palate and intellect. Here, too, the oak is very well integrated, while the wine’s balance and overall sense of harmony are nothing short of stunning. This is one of the very finest vintages of Cannubi Boschis. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2032. Luciano Sandrone’s wines have never been more elegant than they are today. The French oak is increasingly well balanced, and the at times excessive heaviness of some prior vintages is long gone. Simply put, Luciano Sandrone is at the top of his game. Never one to be satisfied, this year Sandrone showed me a number of experimental wines, including a barrel sample of 2009 Barolo Le Vigne vinified with 100% stems, an approach that is virtually unheard of in Piedmont. Although this wine will ultimately be blended into the Barolo Le Vigne, the all-stems Barolo was huge, explosive and totally compelling. Sandrone fans have much to look forward to, as the 2008s and 2009s appear quite promising at this admittedly early stage. As for the 2007s, they are off the charts. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sandrone Nebbiolo Valmaggiore	2008	6×75cl	£130	10	89
The 2008 Nebbiolo d’Alba Valmaggiore is the product of a challenging harvest. A soft, mid-weight wine, the Valmaggiore flows with the essence of dried fruit, flowers, sweet herbs and spices. This is a relatively easygoing Valmaggiore that doesn’t quite reach the summit of the finest years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2015. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sassicaia	1979	12×75cl	£2,860	1	–
(Notes not available)
Sassicaia	2000	12×75cl	£1,250	1	85
It’s hard not to wonder what exactly is going on at this famous estate of the Tuscan coast, the producer of Italy’s first international level Cabernet, and the 2000 Sassicaia is not going to resolve the perplexities. A reasonably fresh but not particularly concentrated ruby in color, its nose is rather evolved, with aromas which seem considerably older than its birth certificate. Medium-bodied and reasonably energetic, it is rather lean on the mid-palate, dry and somewhat tough on the finish. That the 2000 vintage was not a resounding success is anything but surprising, but the last really distinguished Sassicaia was the 1988, which already seems like a blast from the past, a nostalgia trip with little relevance to the present. What’s the problem here? It’s anyone’s guess, but acreage has more than doubled since 1988, and all the wine goes into one mega-cuvee, old vines and young vines, vineyards which have historically given the estate’s best wine and others with no track record whatsoever. This may be a revolutionary approach, but, if it’s correct, everyone in Bordeaux is crazy, something I have some difficulty in accepting. The Wine Advocate
Sassicaia	2005	1×150cl	£315	12	93
The 2005 Sassicaia is another strong effort from Tenuta San Guido. Medium in body, it reveals an understated, delicate expression of smoke, herbs, tobacco and sweet dark fruit. The wine possesses compelling harmony and a gorgeous sense of inner perfume that flows from start to finish. This is an outstanding showing in a very challenging vintage. Sassicaia is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Solaia	1990	6×75cl	£1,160	1	94
The 1990 Solaia is slightly more concentrated than the 1990 Tignanello, with a saturated purple color, and a classic, international nose of cassis, lead pencil, vanillin, and smoke. It is gorgeously rich, with a fat, unctuous texture, and a long, highly extracted finish. Well-balanced and already delicious, it remains unevolved and is potentially a 12-20 year wine. In the context of recent Solaias, I would rate it a worthy competitor to the other-worldly 1985. It is certainly much more opulent, with sweeter, jammier, richer fruit than the 1988 (most recently rated 88 points). Robert Parker
Solaia	1999	1×150cl	£230	1	94
The 2000 Solaia, not unexpectedly, is the best wine of the series with expansive aromas of black currants, thyme, and sage, much eucalyptus and chocolate on the palate along with ripe, sweet fruit, and a sizeable finish. Drink: 2005-2018. Are we dealing with a half-full or a half-empty glass here? Hard to say, but the competition among the bigger houses is getting tougher in Tuscany, and Antinori may have to look at its quantities in less favorable vintages. It is not clear, for instance, that the right stuff for over one hundred thousand bottles of Guado al Tasso was available in 2000. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Solaia	2000	1×150cl	£220	1	90
The 2000 Solaia, not unexpectedly, is the best wine of the series with expansive aromas of black currants, thyme, and sage, much eucalyptus and chocolate on the palate along with ripe, sweet fruit, and a sizeable finish. Drink: 2005-2018. Are we dealing with a half-full or a half-empty glass here? Hard to say, but the competition among the bigger houses is getting tougher in Tuscany, and Antinori may have to look at its quantities in less favorable vintages. It is not clear, for instance, that the right stuff for over one hundred thousand bottles of Guado al Tasso was available in 2000. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Solaia	2004	1×300cl	£600	1	96
The 2004 Solaia is breathtaking, as it so often is. Soaring aromatics lead to a sweet, layered expression of dark fruit. The wine possesses super clarity and precision with a gorgeous inner tension that carries all the way through to the long finish. The tannins remain incredibly finessed and silky. This is a more restrained, elegant style than the full-throttle 2001. 2004 is the first vintage in which the component wines were aged separately, rather than together, as had been the custom in previous vintages. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2024. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Solaia	2006	6×75cl	£875	10

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list dated 3 February 2012

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