Fine wines | Ditton Wine Traders

list dated 21 May 2013

Wine	Vintage	Case size	Price/case	Cases	Parker Score
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Bordeaux
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Alter Ego, Chateau PalmerEP	2012	12×75cl	£420	3	88-90
The second wine, which has gone from strength to strength over recent years, the 2012 Alter Ego de Palmer, is a blend of 51% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Petit Verdot. Spicy and earthy, displaying notes of new saddle leather, roasted herbs and meaty barbecue, it is a medium-bodied, fleshy, attractive wine to drink over the next 10-12 years. Thomas Duroux produced a brilliant 2012 Palmer that is unquestionably one of the stars of the vintage. High levels of tannin were up there with their best vintages, at least analytically. The final blend of 48% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot results in a style of wine that is totally different than that of its nearby neighbors, Chateau Margaux, Rauzan-Segla and Malescot St.-Exupery.
AngélusEP	2012	6×75cl	£950	5	94-96
Owned by Hubert de Bouard, the 2012 Angelus was harvested between October 8-18, yields were 34 hectoliters per hectare, and the natural alcohol was over 14%. The final blend was 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the superstars of the vintage, the dense opaque purple/blue-colored 2012 offers up notes of barbecue smoke, graphite, charcoal, blueberries, blackberries, sweet cherries and forest floor. With terrific fruit intensity, a powerful, layered, multidimensional mouthfeel and full body, it should be drinkable at an early age given the sweetness of the tannin. It should easily evolve for 15-20 years.
Angelus	2005	12×75cl	£2,950	1	98
This 7,000 case blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc will rival or perhaps eclipse vintages such as 2000, 1998, 1990, and 1989. Its dense purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of charcoal, espresso roast, blackberries, blueberries, and a hint of wood. In spite of its thick texture, terrific acidity, high tannins, and enormous intensity as well as richness, it is surprisingly approachable, but given how slowly the 1989 and 1990 have aged, I would recommend cellaring it for 8-10 years. It should keep for three decades. A brilliant wine!
Angelus	2007	12×75cl	£1,700	10	92
A super effort from proprietor Hubert de Bouard, this blend of 62% Merlot and 38% Cabernet Franc exhibits sweet notes of chocolate, charcoal, blackberries, and jammy cherries in its round, opulent, fleshy personality. Yields were 35 hectoliters per hectare, and the wine achieved 13.5% natural alcohol. Low acidity and ripe tannin make for a voluptuous style of Angelus to drink now and over the next 10-15 years.
Angelus	2009	6×75cl	£1,350	10	99
A candidate for one of the finest Angelus produced to date (and there have been many, including 1989, 1990, 2000 and 2005), this blend of 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc was fashioned from tiny yields of 20 hectoliters per hectare. It boasts a black/purple color along with a gorgeous perfume of blueberry liqueur, spring flowers and graphite. In the mouth, notes of incense and cassis also emerge from this velvety-textured, full-bodied, intensely concentrated 2009. With silky tannins, low acidity and spectacular purity, texture and depth, it is already approachable (although I’m sure proprietor Hubert de Bouard would think drinking it now is akin to infanticide), but should keep for 20-30+ years.
Angelus	2010	12×75cl	£2,490	5	98
An absolutely spectacular wine from this estate, run with meticulous precision by Hubert de Bouard, the opaque bluish/purple 2010 Angelus offers up a beautifully sweet smorgasbord of aromas ranging from blueberry pie to espresso roast, white chocolate, creme de cassis, licorice, truffle and a touch of lead pencil shavings. There is even a floral underpinning to this extraordinary, highly-scented, full-bodied wine. Rich, layered and built like a skyscraper, this multi-dimensional Angelus has lavish concentration and moderately high tannin, but it is sweet and well-integrated, as is the oak. Just enough acidity provides focus and delineation to this exceptionally well-endowed wine, which should hit its prime in 7-10 years and last 30-40.
Beau Séjour BécotEP	2012	12×75cl	£335	5	92-95
A spectacular wine from this nearly 50-acre vineyard situated atop St.-Emilion’s famed limestone plateau, the final blend for the 2012 Beau-Sejour Becot was 70% Merlot, 24% Cabernet Franc and 6% Cabernet Sauvignon. It achieved 14% natural alcohol and yields were 31 hectoliters per hectare. One of the stars of the vintage, it is elegant yet powerful, rich and authoritative with abundant black raspberry, blueberry, graphite and toasty vanillin notes. Full-bodied and super rich for a 2012, it is packed with potential. The tannins are ripe as well as abundant suggesting several years of bottle age will be required. It should turn out to be a 20 year proposition. Kudos to the Becot family for producing this beauty.
BeauregardEP	2012	12×75cl	£245	7	87-90
A very good effort from Beauregard, the attractive, up-front, medium-bodied 2012 offers notes of black cherries, mulberries and barbecue smoke in a medium-bodied, velvety-textured, lush style. It appears to be an over-achievement for both the estate and the vintage, and therefore, qualifies as a sleeper of the vintage.
Beychevelle F EP	2012	12×75cl	£450	3	89-91
A strong, solid effort from Beychevelle, the 2012 exhibits a deep ruby/plum color in addition to a sweet perfume of mulberries, black currants, jammy cherries, vanilla and damp earth. With good power and more depth than many Medocs as well as the estate’s hallmark finesse and elegance, this excellent, possibly outstanding wine possesses sweet tannin and more mid-palate depth than many of its peers.
Blanc de Lynch Bages	2011	12×75cl	£230	Sold out	90-92
The Blanc de Lynch Bages is a blend of 66% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Semillon and 22% Muscadelle raised in 50% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet with lime, green apple, chalk dust and a touch of white peach. The palate is well balanced on the entry with the oak nicely assimilated, leading to a poised finish that shows nice weight and persistency. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
Bord’EauxEP	2012	12×75cl	£65	10	86-88
The 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon du Clos des Moiselles exhibits seductive, soft, round, red and black currant flavors as well as a lush, easygoing personality that consumers will adore – especially at the price. Both wines achieved 13% natural alcohol, and the Merlot yields were slightly lower than the Cabernet Sauvignon’s. Both should be drunk during their first 1-2 years of life. These exclusives of American broker Jeffrey M. Davies Selections are tank-fermented, 100% varietal wines offering unadulterated, relatively unmanipulated, fresh, lively fruit. Both are available for a song.
Branaire DucruEP	2012	12×75cl	£320	5	88-90
The 2012 Branaire Ducru is a seductive effort that is a credit to this chateau, which did not try to over-extract or push the fruit past what it was capable of providing. The result is an elegant, pretty, mid-weight wine with soft, velvety tannin, spicy mulberry and black cherry fruit, hints of spring flowers and loamy soil undertones, medium body and a moderate finish. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.
BranonEP	2012	12×75cl	£450	2	92-94
A blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2012 boasts a dense blue/purple color along with a sweet perfume of unsmoked cigar tobacco, bay leaf, black currants, plums and licorice. With medium to full body, impressive concentration, ripe, velvety tannins, decent acidity, and only a background note of wood, it can be consumed over the next 10-15 years. Owned by Helene Garcin-Leveque (also the proprietor of the neighboring Haut-Bergey), this small estate possesses an exquisite terroir.
Calon Segur	2011	12×75cl	£420	5	92-94
The great Madame Denise Gasqueton, a Bordeaux icon whom I always visited early in the morning (8:15 a.m. for nearly 20 consecutive years), passed away on the first day of the 2011 harvest. The 2011 Calon-Segur is a fitting tribute to her extraordinary passion and love for this fabulous estate in the northern sector of St.-Estephe. A very strong effort (this property was untouched by the hail storm that swept through the area on September 1), it boasts an opaque purple color as well as surprisingly sweet tannin and abundant quantities of black cherry, black currant and dusty, loamy scents. Medium to full-bodied with beautifully integrated tannins and sensational purity and length, this super effort is a wonderful homage to the memory of Madame Gasqueton. Moreover, it is potentially one of the longest-lived wines of the vintage and should drink well for 25 or more years.
Calon SegurEP	2012	12×75cl	£420	2	90-92
The 2012 reveals an opaque ruby/purple color along with sweet tannins, low acidity, medium to full body, and abundant cedary, foresty notes intermixed with black cherries, black currants, caramel and spice box. This medium to full-bodied St.-Estephe should drink well in 4-5 years (atypical for a Calon Segur), and last for two decades. Calon Segur has one of the top dozen terroirs in all of Bordeaux, so I’m waiting to see how spectacular it can become under its new ownership. Certainly the team brought in to push the quality is the right one. I don’t know what the final blend of the relatively soft 2012 was, but I suspect it includes a copious percentage of Merlot, although Cabernet Sauvignon has dominated over recent years.
Canon la GaffeliéreEP	2012	12×75cl	£420	2	92-94
Exotic notes of Christmas fruitcake, cedar wood, cassis, espresso roast and chocolate soar from the glass of this sensual, impressively well-endowed 2012. Full-bodied with silky tannin and well-integrated wood, this beauty is a tribute to the impeccable viticulture and fermentation techniques of Neipperg and his head consultant, Stephane Derenoncourt. This wine will be drinkable upon release and should evolve for 15 years. From brilliant proprietor Stephan von Neipperg, this nearly 50-acre vineyard on the foothills of the limestone plateau of St.-Emilion enjoyed low yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend consisted of equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Franc. The natural alcohol is 13.5%, about average on the Right Bank in this vintage.
CantemerleEP	2012	12×75cl	£190	10	89-91
Cantemerle’s ethereal elegance and racy, classy style are unmistakable in this understated yet pretty, dark ruby-colored 2012. Offering lots of cherry, raspberry and black currant fruit, this is a wine of unmistakable finesse and delicacy. Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years.
Cantenac BrownEP	2012	12×75cl	£275	2	90-93
The 2012 Cantenac Brown, one of the most impressive Margaux I tasted, is the complete package – from the initial attack to the layered, rich finish. Dense ruby/purple-hued with notes of licorice, mulberries, black currants, asphalt and spring flowers, this medium to full-bodied, concentrated, rich effort does not reveal an excess of rusticity or astringency. It should drink well for 10-15 years. This under-the-radar chateau never receives much attention even though it is the beneficiary of a new, conscientious proprietor.
Capbern Gasqueton	2009	12×75cl	£135	5	85-87
This cool terroir has produced a tannic yet attractive wine with lots of minerality, an elegant black cherry and slightly herbaceous note, good texture, and a traditional style. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. It should drink well for a decade or more. (Tasted once.)
Capbern Gasqueton	2011	12×75cl	£119	10	85-87
This seriously made, richly fruity, clean, earthy wine reveals light tannin as well as a spicy finish. It merits consumption during its first decade of life.
Carruades de Lafite F	2006	3×300cl	£2,200	1	–
(Notes not available)
Carruades de Lafite F	2008	12×75cl	£1,900	1	91
A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the 2008 exhibits graphite, sandalwood, black and red currant, chocolate and damp earth characteristics in its elegant, medium to full-bodied, fresh, lively personality. It is a delicious, luscious, already evolved wine to drink over the next 15+ years.
Carruades de Lafite F	2009	12×75cl	£1,850	2	93
Of course, the wine to buy in order to get a look at the Lafite Rothschild style and personality is their second wine, Carruades de Lafite, which has become very fashionable in Asia, causing the prices to soar. A very strong effort, the 2009 Carruades de Lafite may be the finest Carruades since the 2003. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it reveals lots of sweet cassis intermixed with subtle smoke and forest floor, undeniable lusciousness and full-bodied hedonism. The wood component is pushed to the background, and the wine is extremely viscous, round and delicious. Additional complexity should continue to emerge over the next decade and this 2009 should keep for 20-30 years.
Carruades de Lafite F	2010	12×75cl	£1,800	5	91-94
RP: 91-94 2010 Carruades de Lafite: Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot and a dollop of Cabernet Franc, the beautiful 2010 Carruades de Lafite may turn out to be one of the finest yet produced (although I still have a weakness for the brilliant 2003, which is drinking beautifully at present). Notes of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, licorice, herbs and cedar are all present in this full-bodied, opulent, stunning second wine. It will be drinkable upon release and should last for 20 or more years.
Carruades de Lafite F	2011	12×75cl	£1,325	2	87-89
The 2011 Carruades de Lafite is composed of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 39% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Soft berry fruit, underbrush, fresh herb and bay leaf characteristics as well as soft tannins, a velvety texture, and a medium-bodied, slightly superficial, but satisfying style suggest this 2011 should be consumed over the next 10-15 years.
Carruades de Lafite F EP	2012	12×75cl	£1,090	3	87-89
The second wine, the 2012 Carruades de Lafite is composed of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Soft, round, accessible and delicious, but uninspiring, it possesses a dark ruby/plum color, medium body and hints of lead pencil shavings intermixed with red and black currants and vanillin. Drink it over the next 7-8 years. Charles Chevalier was candid in saying that the tropical heat wave, along with the poor flowering resulted in intense labor in the vineyard and during the harvest where triage was the operative word, and had to be done thoroughly and consistently. The 2012 Lafite Rothschild, a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and 0.5% Petit Verdot, was the result of a harvest that took place between September 28 and October 9 for the Merlot, October 9-16 for the Cabernet Sauvignon. The small amount of Cabernet Franc included in the Carruades de Lafite was harvested on October 11 – 12. Only 38% of the production made it into the grand vin. If the 2012 fills out completely it could turn out similar to the 1998 Lafite.
Certan de May	2007	6×75cl	£180	6	–
(Notes not available)
Chantegrive (Rouge)EP	2012	12×75cl	£95	10	88-90
This property has ratcheted up the quality over recent years (the 2010 was a killer sleeper of the vintage, and the 2012 Chantegrive is as well). The 2012’s dense purple color is followed by sweet notes of smoky black currants, vanillin, barbecue and graphite presented in a medium to full-bodied, layered, plush, heady style. This is a major overachiever in a vintage where over-achievement was rarely noticeable. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.
Chasse SpleenEP	2012	12×75cl	£195	4	87-89
This attractive dark ruby/plum-colored 2012 offers up notes of lead pencil shavings, vanillin, earth, black currants and black cherries. Medium-bodied, easygoing, seductive and consumer friendly, drink it over the next decade.
Cheval Blanc F EP	2012	12×75cl	£3,680	1	94-96
The final blend for the 2012 Cheval Blanc was 54% Merlot and 46% Cabernet Franc. Despite the use of 100% new oak, there is not a hint of vanillin, toast or espresso notes in the aromatic bouquet, which is filled with scents of black currants, sweet cherries, lavender, forest floor and a hint of underbrush. Concentrated with a surprisingly lofty alcohol level of 13.9% as well as a tannin level that equals their 2010 (a wine bestowed a three-digit score), this full-bodied, opulent 2012 has a pH of 3.8, which accounts for its suppleness, velvety texture and heady richness. It is a great success in this vintage. It will be approachable early given its silky structural aspects, and should last for two decades.
Clerc MilonEP	2012	12×75cl	£335	6	87-89
This attractive, medium-bodied Pauillac reveals tough tannins as well as hints of herbs and underbrush. A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and the rest Carmenere and Petit Verdot, it was angular when I tasted it in March, and, like many Medocs, it seems to err on the side of austerity and the lack of mid-palate charm. Its upbringing in barrel will help somewhat, but just how much remains to be seen.
Clinet	2011	12×75cl	£545	4	92-94
Under proprietor Ronan Laborde, Clinet has returned to the high quality witnessed in 1989 and 1990 under the helmsmanship of the late Jean-Michel Arcaute. Made from a final blend of 85% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Sauvignon and 3% Cabernet Franc that hit 14% natural alcohol, the inky, opaque purple-colored 2011 exhibits notes of blackberries, blueberries, espresso roast and subtle oak. Full-bodied, layered, opulent and flamboyant for a 2011, with loads of concentration and glycerin as well as a long finish, this is one of the most impressive wines of the vintage. It should drink well for two decades.
ClinetEP	2012	12×75cl	£490	5	92-94
Although hardly comparable to what Clinet achieved in both 2009 and 2010, the 2012 Clinet is another star of the vintage. A powerful, full-bodied, muscular Pomerol, it reveals a dense purple color in addition to lots of opulence, a layered, full-bodied richness (somewhat atypical for the vintage), beautiful density and plenty of mocha, black cherry, truffle and graphite notes. It is a surprisingly full yet accessible Clinet that will be drinkable long before the 2009 and 2010 hit their plateaus of maturity. Drink the 2012 over the next 15 years.
Clos de l’OratoireEP	2012	12×75cl	£215	2	90-93
Copious aromas of Christmas fruitcake, cedar wood, underbrush, incense, black currants and black cherries emerge from this sexy, medium-bodied, lush, fruit-forward St.-Emilion. It should be enormously appealing to consumers over the next 10-12 years. Owned by Stephan von Neipperg and made with the consultation of Stephane Derenoncourt (who looks after all the von Neipperg estates), yields were extremely low for the 2012 Clos de l’Oratoire – 25 hectoliters per hectare. The final blend was 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc and the natural alcohol reached 13%.
Clos des JocobinsEP	2012	12×75cl	£169	5	86-88
From the La Gomerie sector of St.-Emilion, it was cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare and is composed of 75% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. While the wine exhibits an impressively dark color along with medium body, it is slightly angular and narrow in the mouth with a short finish. It should be consumed during its first decade of life.
Clos Fourtet	2009	12×75cl	£2,000	1	100
After tasting it three times from bottle, I am convinced this prodigious wine is one of the greatest young Bordeaux I have ever tasted. Inky blue/purple with notes of camphor, forest floor, blackberry, cassis, sweet cherries, licorice, the wine has stunning aromatics, unctuous texture and an almost inky concentration, but without any hard edges. With considerable tannin and just enough acidity to provide definition, this wine transcends even its premier grand cru classe terroir. It is certainly the finest Clos Fourtet ever produced. Give it 5-7 years of cellaring to allow some of its baby fat to fall away. There is certainly enough structure underneath to keep for 30-50 years. Bravo! From my barrel score of 95-98, I suppose I should have seen this perfect score coming, particularly considering what proprietor Philippe Cuvelier and estate manager Tony Ballu have accomplished over the last decade. This is one of the great terroirs of St.-Emilion, nearly 50 acres high on the clay beds and deep limestone plateau of the region, just a stone’s throw from the luxury hotel and restaurant Hostellerie de Plaisance. Yields were moderate at 34 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend is 88% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Sauvignon (somewhat unusual) and the rest Cabernet Franc, aged 18 months in 80% new oak.
Clos FourtetEP	2012	12×75cl	£490	5	93-95
The 2012 Clos Fourtet was cropped at 32 hectoliters per hectare and achieved 14% natural alcohol. The final blend was 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. It offers an opaque dense purple color along with attractive blackberry, licorice, truffle and cassis fruit notes. It is full-bodied and dense with an authoritative mid-palate, sweet tannin and a layered mouthfeel that builds incrementally into a stunningly long finish. Precocious and charming already, it will drink better at an earlier age than the massive, prodigious 2009. Drink this killer St.-Emilion over the next 15+ years. One can’t say enough about proprietor Cuvelier’s 50-acre vineyard that has witnessed a profound transformation of quality over the last decade or more. Moreover, Cuvelier recently purchased three neighboring estates that are consistently reviewed positively in this publication, Les Grandes Murailles, Clos St.-Martin and Cote Baleau. These were previously owned by Sophie Fourcade. Interestingly, since these three properties are adjacent or close to Clos Fourtet, I would not be surprised if over the next decade they become incorporated into Clos Fourtet. Another great success for Cuvelier and his estate manager, Tony Ballu. Drink: 2013 – 2028
Clos l’EgliseEP	2012	12×75cl	£445	2	91-94
The 2012 possesses a creamy texture along with a big, sweet bouquet of mulberry and black cherry fruit judiciously touched by smoky oak, graphite and forest floor notes. Round and generously endowed with a dense plum/purple color, fragrant aromatics, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and silky tannins, it should age effortlessly for 12-15 years. Proprietor Helene Garcin-Leveque has fashioned another gorgeous wine from her 15-acre vineyard planted with 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc. She also does a terrific job at her Pessac-Leognan estates of Haut-Bergey and Branon in addition to the St.-Emilion estate of Barde-Haut. This property has been on a qualitative hot streak since the late 1990s.
Clos MarsaletteEP	2012	12×75cl	£140	2	90-92
The 2012 reveals plenty of Christmas fruitcake notes intermixed with a hint of roasted herbs, sweet, jammy black currant and black cherry fruit, and a touch of background oak in an exuberant, quasi-opulent style with outstanding intensity, richness and blossoming complexity. It is an impressive example of a Pessac-Leognan, one of the stronger appellation in the 2012 vintage. Drink it over the next 8-10 years. A brilliant effort from proprietor Stephan von Neipperg, Clos Marsalette is not far from Latour Martillac and Smith Haut Lafitte, two famous estates in Pessac-Leognan.
Clos Marsalette (Blanc, Pessac)	2011	12×75cl	£135	5	90-93
A plump style, offering a hint of blanched almond that’s quickly followed by grapefruit oil, white peach and jicama notes, with a straw-tinged finish. James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
Cos d’Estournel	2003	12×75cl	£1,600	1	98
The prodigious, fantastic 2003 Cos d’Estournel is a candidate for “wine of the vintage.”� A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon (unusually high for this chateau), 30% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 17,500 cases were produced from low yields. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by a compelling perfume of black fruits, subtle smoke, pain grille, incense, and flowers. With extraordinary richness, full body, and remarkable freshness, elegance, and persistence, this is one of the finest wines ever made by this estate. The good news is that it will be drinkable at a young age yet evolve for three decades or more. Kudos to winemaker Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier.
Cos d’Estournel	2007	12×75cl	£750	10	90
A beautiful wine with 13.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of cassis, incense, charcoal, and subtle oak, round, generously endowed flavors, medium to full body, silky tannin, and surprising depth and length. It can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years.
Cos d’Estournel	2009	12×75cl	£2,500	4	100
One of the greatest young wines I have ever tasted, the monumental 2009 Cos d’Estournel has lived up to its pre-bottling potential. A remarkable effort from winemaking guru Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier, this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Merlot (33%) and a touch of Cabernet Franc (2%) was cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare. It boasts an inky/black/purple color along with an extraordinary bouquet of white flowers interwoven with blackberry and blueberry liqueur, incense, charcoal and graphite. The wine hits the palate with extraordinary purity, balance and intensity as well as perfect equilibrium, and a seamless integration of tannin, acidity, wood and alcohol. An iconic wine as well as a remarkable achievement, it is the greatest Cos d’Estournel ever produced. It is approachable enough at present that one could appreciate it with several hours of decanting, but it will not hit its prime for a decade, and should age effortlessly for a half century.
Cos d’EstournelEP	2012	12×75cl	£990	3	92-95
It has a saturated purple color, a classic style, abundant tannin, slight austerity, superb concentration, huge fruit, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a structured, muscular, well-delineated finish. This impressive, full-bodied Cos will need time to round into shape. Give it 4-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following two decades. Proprietor Michel Reybier has produced an outstanding 2012 Cos d’Estournel from a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and the rest tiny quantities of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. With a pH of 3.75 and alcohol level of 13.8% this is a ripe wine with the same tannin levels (IPH) as the 2009. The second wine, the 2012 Les Pagodes de Cos, represents 50% of the production.
d’AiguilheEP	2012	12×75cl	£135	5	89-91
The 2012 d’Aiguilhe enjoyed low yields of 25 hectoliters per hectare and the final blend was 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc that came in at 14% alcohol. This large production cuvee comes from a 175-acre vineyard. Full-bodied with beautiful black currant, licorice, lead pencil shavings and forest floor characteristics with a touch of smoky oak in the background, this opulent, round, complete wine should drink well for 7-8 years. D’Aiguilhe has been a consistent winner for a number of vintages. One of the Stephan von Neipperg estates (all of which merit attention), Stephane Derenoncourt is the consultant.
d’ArmailhacEP	2012	12×75cl	£275	5	89-91
A stronger effort than its stablemate, Clerc-Milon, the 2012 d’Armailhac is an intriguing blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. Complex notes of menthol, coffee beans, black cherries and black currants are followed by a rich, medium-bodied wine with copious tannin as well as sufficient fat and flesh to cover the structure. The harvest took place during the first ten days of October, most of the grapes being brought in prior to the deluge that began on October 7 and lasted until October 9. This excellent Pauillac is a successful Medoc in this challenging vintage for this region.
d’IssanEP	2012	12×75cl	£310	3	87-89
A touch of herbaceousness and abundant underbrush characteristics kept my score from going higher. Nevertheless, the wine offers an attractive fragrance of herbs, blue and red fruits and loamy soil undertones. Medium-bodied with an angular mouthfeel, it should drink well for a decade or more. An elegant, restrained style of Margaux made from yields of 37 hectoliters per hectare, the 2012 d’Issan is composed of 67% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33% Merlot. Fifty-three percent of the production made it into the grand vin, which achieved 13.2% natural alcohol.
Doisy Daene	2011	12×75cl	£270	5	95-97
The aromatics on the Doisy-Daene comes racing out of the blocks like a March hare, soaring from the glass with honey, quince and lychee aromas with a sorbet like freshness and vivacity. The palate is supremely well balanced with a heightened level of tension and purity, offering delectable but subtle notes of white peach and apricot towards the beautifully composed, mineral-rich finish. Curiously, it reminds me of a top-flight Mosel Auslese, but what a fabulous Barsac from Denis Dubourdieu! Neal Martin
Doisy Daene Blanc	2009	12×75cl	£120	5	–
(Notes not available)
Doisy Vedrines	2011	12×75cl	£215	5	90-92
The 2011 Doisy-Vedrines has a far more taciturn bouquet than the Doisy-Daene, offering its trademark tropical, peachy aromas that will hopefully develop more delineation throughout its maturation. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous entry. There are attractive spicy notes and a satisfying build in the mouth towards its botrytis-rich, tropical finish, although on this occasion I find it needing more tension to merit a higher score. Drink 2014-2030. Neal Martin
Domaine de ChevalierEP	2012	12×75cl	£330	2	92-95
One of the stars of the vintage, it boasts a dense purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of red and black currants, graphite, subtle flowers and well-integrated, toasty oak. Impressively built rich and medium to full-bodied without losing the quintessential elegance and finesse for which this famous estate is renowned, the 2012 Domaine de Chevalier is filled with purity, equilibrium and balance. The tannins are sweet enough that this wine should be accessible when released, and will last for 15-20 years. Is this a modern day clone of their brilliant 1953 (which I drank from magnum at Bern’s Steak House in November for less than $500!)? I was joking with proprietor Olivier Bernard, who is now the president of the Union des Grands Crus, that his position seems to be accompanied by much higher scores from wine critics. Nevertheless, there is no question that Domaine de Chevalier has been on a relatively hot streak lately, and this 2012 is a beauty.
Domaine de Chevalier BlancEP	2012	12×75cl	£640	3	93-95
A gorgeous effort, the 2012 Domaine de Chevalier, made from a blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc and 30% Semillon that reached 13.5% natural alcohol, boasts abundant notes of creme brulee, lemon custard, candle wax and oranges in its beautifully rich, honeyed personality. Great acidity gives laser-like precision to its component parts. Drink this full-bodied white wine over the next 2-3 decades.
Ducru Beaucaillou	2009	12×75cl	£2,075	1	100
The 2009 Ducru Beaucaillou will eclipse the brilliant wines produced in 2005, 2003 and 2000. It will be interesting to see how the 2009 fares against the 2010 after twenty years of aging, but my money is on the 2009. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot that achieved 13.5% natural alcohol, this inky purple, unctuous wine possesses classic aromas of graphite, creme de cassis, blueberries, violets, licorice and Christmas fruitcake. Full-bodied and intense with Ducru’s inimitable elegance and purity, it should firm up in the bottle after 7-10 years of cellaring and last for 40-50 years. Magnificent!
Ducru Beaucaillou	2010	12×75cl	£1,700	1	98
With loads of minerality, a terrific opaque purple color, and slightly more structure and tannin than either Poyferre or St.-Pierre (and that’s saying something), this is a blockbuster, fabulous Ducru Beaucaillou that should be at its best a good decade from now and last 40-50 years. The proprietor is not alone in thinking this is the finest Ducru Beaucaillou since the 1961. The classic wet rock, creme de cassis, subtle oak and gravelly stoniness of the vineyard come through in this spectacular, full-bodied, gorgeously pure and intense effort. This is wine for the ages that should be forgotten for at least a decade. Proprietor Bruno Borie thinks this wine is as superb as their 2009. Slightly more structured and less flamboyant than its older sibling, it is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Merlot from the very best parcels of the vineyard. This wine tips the scales at 14% natural alcohol but has a normal pH of 3.6, which is one of the characteristics of this vintage (high alcohol, normal pH), which thus accounts for the freshness and precision found in most 2010s.
Ducru BeaucaillouEP	2012	12×75cl	£765	3	90-92
Saint Julien 2éme Cru Classé The color is a healthy deep ruby/purple and the wine smells beautiful, exhibiting lots of floral, creme de cassis, licorice and graphite notes. Medium-bodied but slightly deficient in the mid-palate at present, it picks up speed and finishes with serious authority and power. This 2012 should be outstanding, but it is difficult to favorably compare the 2012 to the prodigious wines produced at Ducru in 2009 and 2010. The 2012 will require 4-6 years of cellaring and should drink well for 15-20 years. The charismatic Bruno Borie has produced a 2012 Ducru Beaucaillou made from 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot (about 50% of the total production). The harvest began right after the deluge that occurred the weekend of October 7, 8 and 9. A lot of dry tannins were present the day I tasted this wine, but I think they will soften and become manageable as the wine continues its upbringing in barrel for another 12-14 months.
Duhart Milon F	2006	12×75cl	£700	2	92
It is no longer an insider’s secret that the investments made by the Rothschild family (of Lafite) in Duhart Milon are paying big dividends. A shrewd Pauillac lover’s delight, it possesses exceptional quality, yet the price remains fair. This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, only 50% made it into the final blend, displays some of Lafite’s classic notes of lead pencil shavings, cedar, and black currants along with more earthy, roasted herb, and spice box characteristics. Rich, full-bodied, dense, and already approachable, it should evolve easily for two decades. Good value.
Duhart Milon F	2010	12×75cl	£745	10	94-96
RP: 94-96 2010: This large estate (190 acres) has been on a qualitative rise for nearly a decade. A classic Pauillac, the opaque purple-colored 2010, a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, reveals beautiful notes of creme de cassis, licorice, tobacco leaf and forest floor. Bigger and more muscular than most previous vintages, this full-bodied Pauillac possesses stunning density as well as intensity. Atypically high in alcohol for this property, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years. JR: 17 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot. Extremely deep crimson. Sweet pruney start – looks much more intense than Carruades, presumably because of all the Cabernet. Very introvert; not much nose. Juicy, fresh and liquorice – lots of energy. Lots of freshness. Dry finish. Very subtle but with extremely marked tannins. Just a little rugged. But the fruit is wonderfully concentrated… Decanter: 18 Concentrated black fruits, powerful yet lifted, structured and long term elegance, a great Duhart. Drink 2020-35. Neil Martin: 92-94 A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon (slightly less than 2009) and 27% Merlot, cropped between 24th September and 12th October, the Duhart has a well-defined, classic Cabernet bouquet with blackberry, smoke and a touch of cigar box. Quite Zen-like and introspective in a way but very fine delineation and class. The palate is very well balanced with very ripe Cabernet fruit, just a touch of spice and dried herbs coming through, very Duhart, very Pauillac in style with a slightly austere Pauillac finish that I really appreciate. I probably prefer this to the 2009. Excellent. Drink 2017-2030+ Tasted March 2011.
Duhart Milon F EP	2012	12×75cl	£575	5	87-89
A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon and 38% Merlot, this 2012 exhibits good ripeness as well as a strong herbaceous streak throughout the aromas and flavors. It is a very good, medium-bodied effort, but it is not as exceptional as some of the Duharts we have seen in recent vintages (2008, 2009 and 2010). It is slightly richer than the second wine of Lafite Rothschild, Carruades.
Duhart Milon, Imperial	1982	1×600cl	£900	1	94
This blockbuster was a sleeper of the vintage long before the Rothschilds invested so heavily in modernizing this estate as well as began making a stricter selection. Close to full maturity, the 1982 Duhart Milon exhibits classic notes of creme de cassis, cedar, and flowers, medium to full body, a high level of glycerin, and a lusciousness and fleshiness that are very much in keeping with the vintage. There is a slight amount of pink at the rim, but this beauty should keep for another ten years. Release price: ($90.00/case)
Durfort VivensEP	2012	12×75cl	£235	2	–
(Notes not available)
Echo de Lynch BagesEP	2012	12×75cl	£245	5	–
(Notes not available)
Eglise Clinet	1995	12×75cl	£1,700	1	96
One of the vintage’s most awesome wines, L’Eglise-Clinet’s 1995 has been fabulous from both cask and bottle. The color is opaque purple. The wine is closed aromatically, but it does offer a concoction of black raspberries, kirsch, smoke, cherries, and truffles. Full-bodied and rich, with high tannin, but profound levels of fruit and richness, this dense, exceptionally well-delineated, layered, multidimensional L’Eglise-Clinet only hints at its ultimate potential. This looks to be a legend in the making. I could not get over the extraordinary texture of this wine in the mouth. Intensity and richness without heaviness – a tour de force in winemaking! Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.
Eglise Clinet	2011	12×75cl	£1,150	1	92-95
Another brilliant wine from proprietor Denis Durantou, the powerhouse 2011 l’Eglise Clinet is one of the most densely packed and stacked wines of Pomerol. Inky ruby/purple-colored with a classic bouquet of black currants, black cherries, creme caramel and vanillin, it reveals great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, medium to full body, lavish extraction, no bitterness, sweet, well-integrated tannins, and enough acidity for vibrancy and definition. It should be drinkable in 3-5 years and last for two decades or more.
Evangile	2007	12×75cl	£600	2	88
This dark ruby-colored, medium-weight l’Evangile exhibits creamy blackberry and raspberry fruit, a superficial attack, but plenty of charm, silky tannin, and low acidity make for a delicious wine to drink over the next 7-8 years.
Feytit ClinetEP	2012	12×75cl	£375	4	93-95
Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, which gives the wine a sexy, up-front, well-integrated wood component to accompany its black raspberry, black currant and flowery notes. The wine possesses remarkable intensity, a full-bodied richness and terrific purity. It appears to be one of the superstars of the vintage. Drink it over the next 10-15 years. Possibly the finest wine Feytit Clinet has yet produced (even superior to their remarkable 2008, 2009 and 2010), this property is an exclusivity of Jeffrey M. Davies Signature Selections. Cropped at an absurdly low 21 hectoliters per hectare, the final blend was 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The alcohol level hit 14.1%, which is nearly up there with the 2010 and 2009. Drink: 2013 – 2028
Fleur CardinaleEP	2012	12×75cl	£240	5	92-95
This full-bodied beauty exhibits a dense opaque purple color in addition to copious notes of creme de cassis, kirsch, licorice and incense. It should drink well for 15-20 years. This will be a sleeper of the vintage A superstar of the vintage (not surprising given how successful the proprietors, the Decoster family, have been over the last decade or more), this 58-acre vineyard located near the village of St.-Etienne de Lisse enjoyed yields of 34 hectoliters per hectare. The harvest took place extremely late — between October 22 and November 3. The final blend of 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon came in at 13.5% natural alcohol. Every detail, both in the vineyard and the winery, is looked after by the meticulous owners. This will be a sleeper of the vintage as the Decosters have been among the most realistic proprietors in Bordeaux when it comes to pricing their wines.
Forts de Latour F	2008	12×75cl	£1,500	2	91
A strong effort, this 2008 exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, more minerality than the 2010 and hints of cedarwood, black currants, underbrush and forest floor. This round, generous blend of 66.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33.5% Merlot should easily last for two decades or more.
Forts de Latour F	2009	12×75cl	£1,750	3	95
Very deep purple-black in color, this wine has aromas of creme de cassis, cinnamon toast, dark chocolate and vanilla pod. Medium to full bodied, rich and expressively fruity already, it has a medium to firm level of velvety tannins and a long finish.
G de Guiraud	2011	12×75cl	£74	15	–
(Notes not available)
GazinEP	2012	12×75cl	£440	8	93-95
This may be the first time in the history of this estate that Gazin has been made from 100% Merlot. That was the favored cepage (grape varietal) in 2012, and Gazin has produced a powerful, concentrated, dark plum/purple-hued wine displaying notes of balsam wood, forest floor, camphor, blackberries and cassis. As the wine sits in the glass, hints of white chocolate and espresso roast (no doubt from the barrels used) emerge. Full, rich and intense, this impressive 2012 reminds me of the 2001, only slightly more masculine. Give it 2-3 years of cellaring and drink it over the following two decades.
GiscoursEP	2012	12×75cl	£290	4	90-93
A polished, silky style, with cashmere tannins that let the supple plum and boysenberry fruit glide along. Suave black tea chimes in on the finish. Appears easygoing at first, but there’s ample stuffing here. Solid. James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
GloriaEP	2012	12×75cl	£230	3	87-89
Another winner from this estate, which has been on a hot streak over recent vintages, the 2012 Gloria is unquestionably of classified growth quality. It offers a dark ruby/purple color, attractive, elegant, herbaceously-tinged black currant fruit, soft tannins, a satisfying, fleshy mouthfeel, a good mid-palate and ripe tannin in the finish. I would not be surprised to see it evolve for 10-12+ years.
Grand MayneEP	2012	12×75cl	£235	3	90-92
One of my favorite “under the radar” St.-Emilion estates (the 1998 is spectacular), the full-bodied, impressively well-endowed, opaque purple-colored 2012 Grand-Mayne offers up scents of blueberries, crushed rocks, spring flowers, vanilla and black raspberries. It is a blue fruit-dominated wine with lots of body, sweet tannin and hedonistic, almost primordial appeal because of its exuberant glycerin, texture and fullness. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.
Grand Puy DucasseEP	2012	12×75cl	£265	2	84-86
Earthy, herbal, angular and somewhat weak in the mid-palate, this dark ruby/purple-colored 2012 exhibits attractive cassis and graphite aromas, but it tails off dramatically in the mid-palate and finishes with soft tannin. There is too much missing to make this an exciting offering.
Grand Puy LacosteEP	2012	12×75cl	£355	3	87-89
Aromas of tobacco leaf, roasted herbs and red and black currants cascade from the glass of this medium-bodied, restrained, down-sized 2012 Grand Puy Lacoste. Displaying a dark ruby/purple color and no herbaceousness, this lighter-styled wine is somewhat reminiscent of the 1999 and 2001. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.
Guiraud	2011	12×75cl	£310	4	88-90
The 2011 Guiraud is missing some of the vivacity and fruit intensity displayed by some of its peers this year, and its bouquet is quite resinous and missing the fruit concentration of others in this vintage. The palate shows more promise, with very fine tension and crisp acidity, although it is not quite matched by the finish, which feels slightly attenuated. I was hoping for more from Guiraud, which has produced some excellent wines in recent years, although both samples were consistent. Neal Martin
Haut Bages LiberalEP	2012	12×75cl	£230	3	86-88
Despite a slightly pinched, narrow mid-palate, the 2012 Haut Bages Liberal has turned out to be reasonably attractive. Medium-bodied and elegant with notes of plums, black currants, cassis, cedar wood and underbrush, it is a well-made, pure effort to drink over the next 10-12 years.
Haut Bailly	2008	12×75cl	£600	5	96
A candidate for the -wine of the vintage,- the 2008 Haut-Bailly possesses incredible complexity. Tell-tale notes of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, damp earth, black cherries and black currants intermixed with a hint of subtle barbecue smoke are present in this classic, quintessential Graves. Medium-bodied with an emerging, precocious complexity, it is a super-pure, beautifully textured, long wine that can be drunk now or cellared for 20-25 years. Bravo!
Haut BaillyEP	2012	12×75cl	£465	3	91-93
While the 2012 Haut-Bailly is not as powerful or rich as the 2009 and 2010, it is classically elegant, racy and noble. This medium-bodied effort is the poster child for elegance, finesse, balance and equilibrium. The Cantemerle of Pessac-Leognan? Its deep ruby/plum/purple color is followed by a sweet nose of black cherries, black currants, lead pencil shavings and a touch of spicy oak. This medium-bodied, pretty wine will benefit from 4-5 years of cellaring and last for two decades. The grand vin has been impressive under the administration of Veronique Sanders and her boss, Robert Wilmers, who has given her carte blanche to do whatever is necessary.
Haut BatailleyEP	2012	12×75cl	£245	3	85-87
Elegant but somewhat diluted, this is a pleasant, one-dimensional, superficial Pauillac that can be drunk uncritically. It is not up to the standards of more recent vintages, no doubt because of the challenges of the 2012 vintage.
Haut BergeyEP	2012	12×75cl	£145	3	90-93
Another brilliant effort from proprietress Helene Garcin, the opaque ruby/purple-colored, medium-bodied 2012 Haut-Bergey reveals lots of smoky barbecue, forest floor, black currant and damp earth notes in a surprisingly dense, concentrated, positive, complete style. An outstanding mid-palate and length make for an impressive showing. This 2012 should drink well for 12-15 years.
Haut Brion F	2010	12×75cl	£6,700	1	100
As for the 2010 Haut-Brion, it does not have the power of Latour’s 2010 or the intense lead pencil shavings and chocolaty component of Lafite-Rothschild, but it is extraordinary, perfect wine. It has a slightly lower pH than the 2009 (3.7 versus the 2009’s 3.8), and even higher alcohol than the 2009 (14.6%). The wine is ethereal. From its dense purple color to its incredibly subtle but striking aromatics that build incrementally, offering up a spectacular smorgasbord of aromas ranging from charcoal and camphor to black currant and blueberry liqueur and spring flowers, this wine’s finesse, elegant yet noble power and authority come through in a compelling fashion. It is full-bodied, but that’s only apparent in the aftertaste, as the wine seems to float across the palate with remarkable sweetness, harmony, and the integration of all its component parts – alcohol, tannin, acidity, wood, etc. This prodigious Haut-Brion is hard to compare to another vintage, at least right now, but it should have 50 to 75 years of aging potential. Anticipated maturity: 2022-2065+. Kudos to the team at Haut-Brion and to the proprietors, the Dillon family, who are now represented admirably and meticulously by Prince Robert of Luxembourg. He has made some changes, and all of them seem to have resulted in dramatic improvements to what was already an astonishing group of wines.
Haut Brion F EP	2012	12×75cl	£2,700	3	93-95
The 2012 Haut-Brion, which represents only 46% of the production, is a blend of 65% Merlot, 33% Cabernet Sauvignon and 2% Cabernet Franc. One of the stars of the vintage, it is a complete, medium to full-bodied, soft, round, atypically accessible effort displaying lots of minerality along with red and black fruits, exceptional fragrance and purity, a fleshy mid-palate and a long finish. A remarkable fact in both these wines is that the alcohol levels in 2012 hit 14.8%, which nearly equals the record levels achieved in 2010 – that’s astonishing! This 2012 should drink well 3-4 years after bottling, and last for 20-25 years.
Haut CarlesEP	2012	12×75cl	£170	3	90-92
One of the blackest, most opaque-colored wines of this appellation, Haut-Carles has turned in another superlative performance in 2012. The compelling aromatic profile of black fruits, crushed rocks and spring flowers is followed by a full-bodied, rich, complete wine that is far superior to many of its more famous peers throughout Bordeaux. A major sleeper of the vintage, this beauty will drink well for 10-15 years.
La Chapelle d’AusoneEP	2012	12×75cl	£1,075	1	91-93
The second wine, the 2012 La Chapelle d’Ausone, is an equal part blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc displaying an inky/blue/purple color as well as a sweet kiss of blueberry, blackberry, crushed rock and spring flower characteristics. Remarkably, no one at a blind tasting would ever believe this medium to full-bodied effort is a second wine – it’s that impressive! It should drink well for 15-20 years.
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut BrionEP	2012	12×75cl	£395	2	87-88
The elegant, medium-bodied, supple-textured, soft, velvety La Chapelle exhibits notes of damp earth, forest floor, raspberry and blueberry fruit. One-third of the production made it into this second wine, which should drink nicely for a decade or more. Like its bigger sibling, the second wine, the 2012 La Chapelle de la Mission, was the result of a harvest that occurred between September 17 and October 9. (Keep in mind that the micro-climate of Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion is essentially within a highly developed suburb of Bordeaux.)
La Clarence de Haut BrionEP	2012	12×75cl	£670	2	88-90
Haut-Brion’s second wine, the 2012 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion, is a delicious, seductive, fruity, lighter-styled effort exhibiting plenty of crushed rock, floral and mineral notes intermixed with red and black currants, camphor and forest floor. This pretty, medium-bodied wine can be drunk upon release or cellared for a decade.
La ConfessionEP	2012	12×75cl	£210	2	91-93
The dense purple-hued 2012 offers up notes of blueberries, lavender, incense, chocolate and toasty oak. The lovely aromatics are followed by deep, plush, medium to full-bodied, opulent, concentrated fruit flavors. Enjoy this beauty over the next 10-12 years. Under the helm of young, talented proprietor Jean-Philippe Janoueix, La Confession has grown to nearly 24 acres. The final blend for the 2012 La Confession is 76% Merlot and 24% Cabernet Franc that achieved 14.2% natural alcohol. The consultant here is Michel Rolland’s top lieutenant, Jean-Phillipe Fort.
La Conseillante	2009	12×75cl	£1,325	2	96
The competition between the 2009, 2005 and 2000 La Conseillante will be interesting to follow over the next twenty years. There was more of a selection process at this estate in 2009 than there was in 2000, resulting in a beautiful Pomerol offering notes of mulberries, sweet cherries, spring flowers, raspberries and truffles. The color is a healthy deep plum/ruby/purple and the wine is medium to full-bodied with silky tannins, a broad, layered mouthfeel and wonderful freshness as well as length. This gorgeous, complex, Burgundian-styled Pomerol will be drinkable in 4-6 years and should keep for 30-40. (The 1970 is still alive and that was not nearly as well made as the 2009.)
La ConseillanteEP	2012	12×75cl	£640	3	92-94
The 2012 La Conseillante exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as a beautiful, up-front, projected fragrance that includes mulberry and raspberry jam, licorice, lavender and underbrush. Rich and medium-bodied, this attractive effort possesses the estate’s hallmark elegance, finesse and sweet, velvety tannins. It should be approachable in its youth and last for 15+ years. This is another Bordeaux property that appears to be on top of its game, producing wines of great elegance as well as flavor authority. Sandwiched between the border of St.-Emilion and Cheval Blanc, and, on the Pomerol side, l’Evangile, Vieux-Chateau-Certan and Petrus, its terroir has extraordinary potential.
La Croix de BeaucaillouEP	2012	12×75cl	£240	3	87-89
Saint-Julien Second vin du Château Ducru-Beaucaillou The second wine (also about 50% of the total production), the 2012 Croix du Beaucaillou is composed of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot with 2% Petit Verdot. It is a soft, round, attractively endowed effort with a deep ruby/plum color as well as a sweet nose of black currants, dusty, loamy, earthy notes and a touch of lead pencil shavings and vanilla. Well-made and medium-bodied, this attractive 2012 should drink well for 10-12 years. The charismatic Bruno Borie has produced a 2012 Ducru Beaucaillou made from 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot (about 50% of the total production). The harvest began right after the deluge that occurred the weekend of October 7, 8 and 9. A lot of dry tannins were present the day I tasted this wine, but I think they will soften and become manageable as the wine continues its upbringing in barrel for another 12-14 months
La Dame de MontroseEP	2012	12×75cl	£230	2	88-90
The second wine has been a strong effort for a number of years. The 2012 Dame de Montrose represents 29% of the total production. Its domination by Merlot is noticeable in the chocolate, mocha and black cherry characteristics. Deep ruby/purple-tinged, fleshy and succulent with low acidity and ripe tannin, it is the ideal second wine to drink over the next decade. Only 52% of the production made it into the 2012 Montrose, a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon (harvested between October 13 and 20), 37% Merlot (picked during the third week of September) and a tiny amount of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The pH was 3.7 and I suspect the alcohol level pushes 14%. It is one of the top successes of the vintage. As new administrator Herve Berland indicated, the severe six-week drought caused the Cabernet skins to become very thick, thus resisting the huge rainfall that fell between October 7 and 9. The late harvest dates suggest very ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, which appears to be exactly what has occurred.
La Fleur MorangeEP	2012	12×75cl	£360	2	92-94
In total contrast is the 2012 La Fleur Morange. This sensational effort exhibits an inky/blue/purple color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of blueberry jam, creme de cassis, incense and camphor as well as a touch of background oak (the wine is aged in 100% new French barrels). Full-bodied and long with ripe tannin, this impressive 2012 should drink well for 15+ years. Another exclusivity of Jeffrey M. Davies Signature Selections, this excellent estate produces an early-bottled cuvee from 100% Merlot called Mathilde. From a 5-acre parcel of 80-year-old vines cropped at 25 hectoliters per hectare, it is a blend of 70% Merlot and 30% Cabernet Franc that reached 14.5% natural alcohol.
La Fleur Petrus	2009	12×75cl	£1,700	1	97
Even with considerable youthful characteristics, this stunning, open-knit 2009 is quite approachable. This fabled terroir sandwiched between Petrus and Lafleur (hence the name) generally produces one of the more elegantly-styled Pomerols, but in 2009 it offers an extra dimension of flavor intensity as well as more texture and concentration. It reveals a super-seductive perfume of mocha, loamy soil, herbs, black cherries and black currants, truffles and licorice, full body and velvety tannins. The overall impression is one of intensity, power, glycerin and richness as well as undeniable elegance and laser-like focus. This 2009 can be drunk now or cellared for another 25-30+ years.
La GaffeliereEP	2012	12×75cl	£345	2	91-93
Lots of sweet Christmas fruitcake notes intermixed with black cherry, black currant, licorice and incense jump from the glass of this dense purple-colored wine. Medium to full-bodied with surprisingly soft, round tannins and a beautiful mid-palate, the 2012 does not deviate much from the estate’s elegant, racy style. This beauty can be drunk early or aged for 15 or more years. This is an impressive offering from proprietor Count Leo Malet De Roquefort (whose family dates back to the 1400s). The 2012 La Gaffeliere achieved 14% natural alcohol, which, while relatively high for a 2012, is not up to the remarkable levels achieved in 2010 or 2009. The harvest occurred between October 4 and 16, and the final blend was 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.
La LaguneEP	2012	12×75cl	£390	2	90-92
This is an excellent effort from this estate at the southern end of the Medoc. A tell-tale, seductive, round, medium to full-bodied style is present in this forward, precocious, delicious wine with plenty of charm and finesse. Medium-bodied with sweet tannin and plenty of toasty, black currant and loamy soil notes intermixed with hints of spice box and vanillin are present in this nicely textured, complete, attractive effort. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2008	12×75cl	£1,600	1	94
This glorious offering possesses sweet tobacco leaf, black currant, mocha, white chocolate, scorched earth and burning ember-like characteristics. Full-bodied, stunningly rich and exceptionally well-endowed, this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc demands 2-3 years of additional bottle age. It should age gracefully for 35-40 years.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2009	12×75cl	£5,150	1	100
A candidate for the wine of the vintage, the 2009 La Mission-Haut-Brion stood out as one of the most exceptional young wines I had ever tasted from barrel, and its greatness has been confirmed in the bottle. A remarkable effort from the Dillon family, this is another large-scaled La Mission that tips the scales at 15% alcohol. A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (47% of each) and the rest Cabernet Franc, it exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a magnificent bouquet of truffles, scorched earth, blackberry and blueberry liqueur, subtle smoke and spring flowers. The wine’s remarkable concentration offers up an unctuous/viscous texture, a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, sweet, sumptuous, nearly over-the-top flavors and massive density. Perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime La Mission-Haut-Brion, the 2009 will take its place alongside the many great wines made here since the early 1920s. The good news is that there are nearly 6,000 cases of the 2009. It should last for 50-75+ years. Given the wine’s unctuosity and sweetness of the tannin, I would have no problem drinking it in about 5-6 years.
La Mission Haut Brion F EP	2012	12×75cl	£1,670	3	91-94
The 2012 La Mission Haut-Brion, which represents 41% of the total production, is a blend of 62% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Lots of tobacco leaf, forest floor, underbrush and red as well as black fruit aromas jump from this aromatic, seductive, open-knit La Mission. Medium to full-bodied, round, generous, lush and flattering to taste, even at this young age, it is built along the stylistic lines of the 2001 or 1999. Drink it over the next 15-20 years. Like its bigger sibling, the second wine, the 2012 La Chapelle de la Mission, was the result of a harvest that occurred between September 17 and October 9. (Keep in mind that the micro-climate of Haut-Brion and La Mission Haut-Brion is essentially within a highly developed suburb of Bordeaux.)
La MondotteEP	2012	12×75cl	£1,125	1	94-97
Sumptuous notes of mulberries, spring flowers, kirsch, black currant liqueur, graphite and spice appear more projected and evolved than in most barrel samples of La Mondotte. Extravagantly rich, full-bodied and multidimensional with soft tannin and low acidity, this is a precocious, gorgeously proportioned effort that should be drinkable in 4-5 years. It will last for two decades. This is another spectacular performance from consultant Stephane Derenoncourt and proprietor Stephan von Neipperg. From a 12-acre estate situated high on the clay and limestone plateau above Pavie Decesse, La Mondotte undeniably has one of the most outrageously fine vineyard parcels in all of St.-Emilion. The final blend of the 2012 was 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc that tips the scales at 14% natural alcohol. Yields were a minuscule 20 hectoliters per hectare. The harvest took place between October 9-18. Drink: 2017 – 2037
La PointeEP	2012	12×75cl	£210	3	90-92
A sleeper of the vintage, it exhibits a healthy dark ruby/purple color and the bouquet offers lots of mocha, raspberry, black cherry, incense, lavender and background oak aromas. Medium to full-bodied, plump, rich, dense, pure and well-balanced, it can be drunk over the next 10-12+ years. One of the finest wines I have tasted from this property, which is in the process of being reborn, the 2012 La Pointe is composed of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc grown in clay and sandy soils in the Graves sector of Pomerol. Consultant Hubert de Bouard has exploited the quality of this estate since 2008, and to reiterate, the 2012 may be their best wine to date.
La Réserve de la ComtesseEP	2012	12×75cl	£225	3	–
(Notes not available)
La Vieille CureEP	2012	12×75cl	£119	2	88-90
A sleeper of the vintage, the 2012 La Vieille Cure reveals a soft, round, charming plumpness as well as lots of black cherry jam notes intermixed with hints of licorice, incense and forest floor. Medium-bodied, richly fruity and seductive, it is best drunk over the next 6-8 years. Another sleeper of the vintage from this top Fronsac estate, American-owned La Vieille Cure is run by New York’s Colin Ferenbach. This 45-acre vineyard is planted with 75% Merlot, 22% Cabernet Franc and 3% Cabernet Sauvignon.
Léoville Poyferré	2011	12×75cl	£550	5	91-94
Another super effort from this estate, Leoville Poyferre-s 2011 possesses an opaque purple color in addition to a ripe, fragrant nose of black currant fruit, cedar, white chocolate and a touch of oak. Rich, layered and medium to full-bodied with unmistakable elegance and purity, vibrant acids and a fresh, lively personality, it will need 3-4 years of cellaring and should keep for two decades.
l’EvangileEP	2012	12×75cl	£1,100	5	90-94
The 2012 is an outstanding effort displaying copious quantities of black raspberry and blackberry fruit intermixed with hints of camphor, black truffles and subtle new oak. Opulent, round and generously endowed with impressive purity as well as a forward style, it should drink well young yet age for 12-15 years. Administrator Pascal Vazart told me the rain that occurred at the end of September broke the hydric stress and drought-like conditions that had existed in this vineyard since mid-July. During that period, there was no rain, but lots of sunshine, which was beginning to cause serious issues with vineyards planted on sand and gravelly soils. The fruit for the 2012 l’Evangile was harvested between September 20 and October 9. It is composed of 93% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc that achieved a lofty 14.3% alcohol level. The finished pH is 3.7, which no doubt accounts for the wine’s smooth, velvety personality. No one will confuse the 2012 with their 2009 or 2010.
Lacoste BorieEP	2012	12×75cl	£149	3	–
(Notes not available)
Lafite Rothschild F	2009	6×75cl	£4,150	2	99
The 2009 Lafite Rothschild is a candidate for “wine of the vintage.”� Although the 2003 was powerful (12.9% alcohol), the 2009 came in at 13.4% alcohol. It is a blend of 82.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and the rest Petit Verdot. Only 45% of the crop went into the grand vin, which may be the most concentrated Lafite I have ever tasted. There is not a hard edge to be found in this inky/purple-colored wine displaying notes of charcoal, incense, black currants, and licorice. In the mouth, it represents a liqueur of black fruits offered in a remarkably full-bodied, incredibly elegant, lush style. Expansive, savory, staggeringly concentrated, and voluptuous as well as wonderfully precise with a hint of minerality, this sensational wine’s technical numbers are off the charts. Is this a replay of the 1959? Although it will be surprisingly approachable in its youth, this is a 50-100-year wine. (Tasted once.)
Lafite Rothschild F	2010	12×75cl	£8,000	2	98
The 2010 Lafite Rothschild, a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot (a 3% difference from the barrel sample shown two years ago), achieved relatively high alcohol of 13.32%, according to administrator Charles Chevalier. The wine is very impressive, not as fleshy, flamboyant and massive as the 2009, but nevertheless, a big, rich, full-throttle Lafite-Rothschild meant to age a half century or more. Deep purple, with notes of white chocolate, mocha, cedar and charcoal as well as hints of vanillin and creme de cassis, the wine is full-bodied yet has that ethereal lightness that makes it a Lafite. Rich, with good acidity, precision and freshness, this is a slightly zestier version of the 2009 as well as more restrained and structured than that particular vintage. It will need at least 10-12 years of cellaring and keep for 50+ years.
Lafite Rothschild F	2010	6×75cl	£4,000	2	98
The 2010 Lafite Rothschild, a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and 13% Merlot (a 3% difference from the barrel sample shown two years ago), achieved relatively high alcohol of 13.32%, according to administrator Charles Chevalier. The wine is very impressive, not as fleshy, flamboyant and massive as the 2009, but nevertheless, a big, rich, full-throttle Lafite-Rothschild meant to age a half century or more. Deep purple, with notes of white chocolate, mocha, cedar and charcoal as well as hints of vanillin and creme de cassis, the wine is full-bodied yet has that ethereal lightness that makes it a Lafite. Rich, with good acidity, precision and freshness, this is a slightly zestier version of the 2009 as well as more restrained and structured than that particular vintage. It will need at least 10-12 years of cellaring and keep for 50+ years.
Lafite Rothschild F EP	2012	6×75cl	£1,975	5	92-95
The classically styled 2012 exhibits attractive elegance, medium body and outstanding concentration, but not the complexity and depth or prodigious qualities of many other recent Lafites. It is a relatively soft, spicy effort displaying notes of crushed rocks, white chocolate, black currants and graphite. It should be drinkable in 5-8 years and last for two decades. Charles Chevalier was candid in saying that the tropical heat wave, along with the poor flowering resulted in intense labor in the vineyard and during the harvest where triage was the operative word, and had to be done thoroughly and consistently. The 2012 Lafite Rothschild, a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and 0.5% Petit Verdot, was the result of a harvest that took place between September 28 and October 9 for the Merlot, October 9-16 for the Cabernet Sauvignon. The small amount of Cabernet Franc included in the Carruades de Lafite was harvested on October 11 – 12. Only 38% of the production made it into the grand vin. If the 2012 fills out completely it could turn out similar to the 1998 Lafite.
Lafite Rothschild F EP	2012	12×75cl	£3,950	2	92-95
The classically styled 2012 exhibits attractive elegance, medium body and outstanding concentration, but not the complexity and depth or prodigious qualities of many other recent Lafites. It is a relatively soft, spicy effort displaying notes of crushed rocks, white chocolate, black currants and graphite. It should be drinkable in 5-8 years and last for two decades. Charles Chevalier was candid in saying that the tropical heat wave, along with the poor flowering resulted in intense labor in the vineyard and during the harvest where triage was the operative word, and had to be done thoroughly and consistently. The 2012 Lafite Rothschild, a blend of 91% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and 0.5% Petit Verdot, was the result of a harvest that took place between September 28 and October 9 for the Merlot, October 9-16 for the Cabernet Sauvignon. The small amount of Cabernet Franc included in the Carruades de Lafite was harvested on October 11 – 12. Only 38% of the production made it into the grand vin. If the 2012 fills out completely it could turn out similar to the 1998 Lafite.
Lafon RochetEP	2012	12×75cl	£240	5	90-92
The opaque purple-hued 2012 Lafon Rochet reveals plenty of incense, blueberry, black raspberry and spring flower notes intermixed with a hint of forest floor. Rich and medium to full-bodied, it is a complete wine from beginning to end. It may tighten up once it’s in bottle, but this wine has 15 or more years of cellaring potential. This superb effort is a major sleeper of the vintage. Made from a final blend of 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 5% Petit Verdot, it boasts 13.5% natural alcohol and was made by Basile Tesseron, whose family owns this chateau as well as the well-known Pontet Canet. Like his uncle Alfred, Basile has moved to biodynamic farming.
LagrangeEP	2012	12×75cl	£265	3	86-88
Saint-Julien 3ème Cru Classé A solid, masculine-styled effort, the 2012 Lagrange lacks charm, but it does offer a muscular, medium-bodied, slightly rustic style with plenty of wood (a signature of this property), and an adequate mid-palate, texture and finish. The tannins and structured style suggest 2-3 years of cellaring are needed. It should age for 12-15 years.
Lalande BorieEP	2012	12×75cl	£155	3	86-88
Saint- Julien Slightly herbaceous, but well-made with lots of black cherry and black currant fruit intermixed with hints of damp earth and spice, this blend of 60% Merlot and the rest mostly Cabernet Sauvignon with about 2% Cabernet Franc is supple and medium-bodied, but it narrows out in the mouth and finishes somewhat abruptly. Drink it over the next 7-8 years.
Langoa BartonEP	2012	12×75cl	£325	3	86-88
Fruity, short and narrowly constructed, the 2012 Langoa Barton displays a deep ruby/plum/purple color, fresh acids, sweet tannins and less weight, muscle and power than usual. It is a good but uninspiring effort to drink over the next 10-12 years.
LascombesEP	2012	12×75cl	£425	3	90-92
Margaux 2ème Cru Classé An outstanding wine in this vintage, the full-bodied 2012 Lascombes reveals more power, concentration and texture than many of its peers. Its dense blue/purple color is followed by notes of acacia flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, black currants, vanillin and toast. Medium to full-bodied with excellent texture (for a 2012), as well as good follow through and length, this soft, plush, outstanding Margaux should drink well for 12-15 years.
Latour F	1996	12×75cl	£6,100	3	99
A spectacular Latour, the 1996 may be the modern day clone of the 1966, only riper. This vintage, which is so variable in Pomerol, St.-Emilion, and Graves, was fabulous for the late-harvested Cabernet Sauvignon of the northern Medoc because of splendid weather in late September and early October. An opaque purple color is followed by phenomenally sweet, pure aromas of cassis infused with subtle minerals. This massive offering possesses unreal levels of extract, full body, intensely ripe, but abundant tannin, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. Classic and dense, it displays the potential for 50-75 years of longevity. Although still an infant, it would be educational to taste a bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050.
Latour F	2002	12×75cl	£3,950	1	96
The wine of the vintage? There are only 10,000 cases of this extraordinarily rich, dense 2002 that is as powerful as the 2003 (even the alcohol levels are nearly the same, 12.85%) . It is dark ruby/purple to the rim, with notes of English walnuts, crushed rocks, black currants, and forest floor, dense, full-bodied, and opulent, yet classic with spectacular aromatics, marvelous purity, and a full-bodied finish that lasts just over 50+ seconds. Huge richness and the sweetness of the tannin are somewhat deceptive as this wine seems set for a long life. Administrator Frederic Engerer seems to be more pleased with what Latour achieved in 2002 than in any other recent vintage. Hats off to him for an extraordinary accomplishment in a vintage that wouldn’t have been expected to produce the raw materials to achieve something at this level of quality. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2045.
Latour F	2007	12×75cl	£3,850	1	92
The 2007 Latour (the first wine made in the newly renovated cellars) exhibits a dense ruby/purple color as well as a sweet, expansive bouquet of black fruits and spring flowers interwoven with a striking minerality. The wine’s dense, medium to full-bodied flavors are surprisingly evolved, with soft tannins, an ample, generous mouthfeel, and an endearing texture. Undoubtedly one of the longest lived wines of the vintage, the 2007 Latour should last for two decades or more.
Latour F	2008	12×75cl	£4,700	1	95
An extraordinary wine, the classic 2008 Latour (13.5% natural alcohol) is composed of 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Merlot and 1% Cabernet Franc (40% of the production made it into the grand vin). Its dense purple color is followed by hints of espresso roast, cassis, burning embers, truffles and graphite. Rich with full-bodied power, beautiful purity and graciousness allied to a voluminous, savory, broad mouthfeel, this beauty will be drinkable in 4-5 years and will keep for three decades.
Latour F	2010	6×75cl	£5,750	3	100
One of the perfect wines of the vintage, Frederic Engerer challenged me when I tasted the 2010 Latour at the estate, asking, “If you rate the 2009 one hundred, then how can this not be higher?” Well, the scoring system stops at 100, (and has for 34 years,) and will continue for as long as I continue to write about wine. Nevertheless, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9.5% Merlot, and .5% Petit Verdot hit 14.4% natural alcohol and represents a tiny 36% of their entire production. The pH is about 3.6, which is normal compared to the 3.8 pH of the 2009, that wine being slightly lower in alcohol, hence the combination that makes it more flamboyant and accessible. The 2010 is a liquid skyscraper in the mouth, building layers upon layers of extravagant, if not over-the-top richness with its hints of subtle charcoal, truffle, blackberry, cassis, espresso and notes of toast and graphite. Full-bodied, with wonderfully sweet tannin, it is a mind-boggling, prodigious achievement that should hit its prime in about 15 years, and last for 50 to 100. There is no denying the outrage and recriminations over the decision by the Pinault family and their administrator, Frederic Engerer, to pull Latour off the futures market next year. However, you can still buy these 2010s, although the first two wines are not likely to be released until they have more maturity, which makes sense from my perspective. Perhaps Latour may have offended a few loyal customers who were buying wines as futures, but they are trying to curtail all the interim speculation that occurs with great vintages of their wines (although only God knows what a great vintage of future Latour will bring at seven or eight years after the harvest). As a set of wines, the 2010s may be the Pinaults’ and Engerer’s greatest achievements to date. Of course, I suspect the other first-growth families won’t want to hear that, nor will most of the negociants in Bordeaux, but it’s just the way things are. Frederic Engerer, by no means the most modest of administrators at the first growths, thinks it would be virtually impossible to produce a wine better than this, and he may well be correct. If they gave out Academy Awards for great performances in wine, the Pinaults and Engerer would certainly fetch a few in 2010. P.S. Just so you don’t worry, Engerer offered up the 2009 next to the 2010 to see if I thought it was still a 100-point wine, and yes, ladies and gentlemen, it still is.
Le Petit ChevalEP	2012	12×75cl	£1,140	3	86-88
The second wine, the 2012 Le Petit Cheval, is composed of 75% Cabernet Franc and 25% Merlot. Straightforward, elegant, fruity, racy and classy, it lacks a touch of weight, mid-palate depth and length. Nevertheless, there is plenty to like. It should drink nicely upon release and last for a decade thereafter. Drink: 2013 – 2023
Le Petit LionEP	2012	12×75cl	£250	3	87-89
The second wine, the excellent 2012 Le Petit Lion, is composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc. It, too, boasts 13.5% alcohol. Offering abundant notes of black cherry liqueur, graphite, vanillin and spring flowers, it is a rich, supple, medium-bodied effort with excellent, possibly outstanding concentration and ripeness. It should drink well for 10-15 years. One of the best, if not the finest wines made in St.-Julien in 2012 is Jean-Hubert Delon’s famed Leoville Las Cases. A blend of 74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc, it tips the scales at 13.5% alcohol, which is interesting given the fact that its next door neighbor, Latour, only hit 12.8%. Delon said rot was no problem in their well-drained, gravelly vineyards (which are of first-growth quality in fact if not in name).
Le Petit Mouton F EP	2012	6×75cl	£370	7	90-92
The 2012 Le Petit Mouton represents 38% of the crop, which is much higher than the normal 25% that usually makes it into the second wine. Composed of 79% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc, it reveals similar black currant liqueur notes, but they are less intense and pervasive. Administrator Philippe Dhalluin has fashioned a wonderfully opulent, round, juicy Petit Mouton exhibiting plenty of chocolaty notes intermixed with a subtle hint of oak offered in a lush, easily understood style. Enjoy this charming, endearing Le Petit Mouton over the next 15+ years. Mouton Rothschild has produced one of the vintage-s most profound wines in 2012, and possibly the -wine of the Medoc.- About 49% of the production made it into the 2012 Mouton, which is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The harvest took place during the middle two weeks of October. This may be one of the few 2012s that comes close to equaling what was achieved in both 2009 and 2010, two far superior vintages.
Leoville BartonEP	2012	12×75cl	£485	2	90-92
This well-made, complete St.-Julien possesses a dense purple color as well as surprisingly soft tannins for this wine which tends to be jacked up with a lot of structure, masculinity and muscle in most vintages. The 2012 offers attractive cedary, black currant fruit and vanilla notes, and a medium-bodied, denser mid-palate than many of its peers’. The tannins are noticeable in the finish, so give this wine 4-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following two decades as it will be one of the longer lived wines of the vintage.
Leoville Lascases F	1990	12×75cl	£2,350	2	96
As one might expect, this is a brilliant wine, but it remains shockingly young, even for the fast evolving 1990s. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a classic, nearly restrained set of aromatics that includes notions of sweet black cherries, black currants, lead pencil, and wet stones. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, and while technically low in acidity, there is a freshness, delineation, and classicism in this full-throttle, rich, concentrated, impeccable 1990. While still youthful, it is easy to appreciate despite its substantial tannins. It is not quite as backward as the 1990 Lafite Rothschild or 1990 Latour. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Release price: ($500.00/case)
Leoville Lascases F	2010	12×75cl	£1,900	5	96
The 2010 is a quintessentially elegant, classic wine of Bordeaux – firm, rigid, perhaps slightly lighter than most of the other St.-Juliens, but stylish, potentially complex, and reminiscent of the style of the 1986, but more concentrated and powerful. It is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc with a normal pH of 3.56. It was raised in 75% new oak and the alcohol came to 13.7%. This wine displays loads of black currants, cedar wood and vanillin, but needs a good 7-8 years of cellaring, if not much longer. It should last for 30+ years. What I like about tasting at Las Cases is that Jean-Hubert Delon opens one bottle in my presence, and has another already decanted four hours in advance to compare. It is nearly unanimous on each visit that the decanted wine shows better, which probably gives you some insight into the aging potential of Las Cases. It is certainly one of Bordeaux’s longest-lived wines, and seems to have more and more of a character resembling Lafite Rothschild more than its nearby neighbor, Chateau Latour.
Leoville Poyferre	2009	12×75cl	£1,650	4	100
One of the more flamboyant and sumptuous wines of the vintage, this inky/purple-colored St.-Julien reveals thrilling levels of opulence, richness and aromatic pleasures. A soaring bouquet of creme de cassis, charcoal, graphite and spring flowers is followed by a super-concentrated wine with silky tannins, stunning amounts of glycerin, a voluptuous, multilayered mouthfeel and nearly 14% natural alcohol. Displaying fabulous definition for such a big, plump, massive, concentrated effort, I suspect the tannin levels are high even though they are largely concealed by lavish amounts of fruit, glycerin and extract. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040.
Les CruzellesEP	2012	12×75cl	£140	2	90-92
Aromas of chocolate, melted caramel, toffee and black cherry jam emerge from this sexy, full-bodied, lush wine. Consume it over the next 7-8 years. Given what proprietor Denis Durantou accomplished at his flagship estate of l’Eglise Clinet, it is not surprising that his Lalande de Pomerol is another brilliant wine as well as a major sleeper of the vintage. Harvested between September 21 and October 1, the 2012 Les Cruzelles is a blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc.
Les Ormes de PezEP	2012	12×75cl	£190	5	85-87
Good acidity along with fresh, clean cut red and blue fruits characterize this straightforward, meaty, fruity offering. It lacks some concentration, complexity and overall gravitas, but it does offer good fruit and ripe tannin in a medium-bodied, easygoing style. Consume it over the next 7-8 years.
Les Pagodes de CosEP	2012	12×75cl	£295	3	88-90
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, it offers up sweet black cherry, incense, lavender and damp foresty characteristics in an elegant, ripe, medium-bodied style. With good purity, sweet tannin and a heady finish, it should drink well for a decade. Proprietor Michel Reybier has produced an outstanding 2012 Cos d’Estournel from a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and the rest tiny quantities of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. With a pH of 3.75 and alcohol level of 13.8% this is a ripe wine with the same tannin levels (IPH) as the 2009. The second wine, the 2012 Les Pagodes de Cos, represents 50% of the production.
Lynch Bages F	2006	12×75cl	£820	5	94
1988 or 1995-ish in style, rather than 1996, which seems to be the vintage several 2006s recall, this dense purple-colored wine displays sweet notes of creme de cassis, tobacco leaf, licorice, and some cedar and graphite. The wine has plenty of structure a la 1995 and a backward, muscular personality, but beautiful fruit on the attack and alluring purity and a nicely textured mouthfeel. The finish suggests cellaring for 3-5 years and drinking over the following two decades.
Lynch Bages F	2009	12×75cl	£1,250	1	98
Performing even better from bottle than it did from barrel, this appears to be the finest Lynch Bages since the 2000, 1990 and 1989. According to the chateau, the 2009 has the highest level of polyphenols ever measured as well as high alcohol (nearly 13.5%). A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest largely Merlot with touches of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it is an expressive, voluptuously textured effort with unctuosity and powerful, juicy, succulent blackberry and black currant flavors, low acids, a layered, massive mouthfeel, but no sense of heaviness or fatigue. This exquisite Lynch Bages should drink well for 30+ years.
Lynch Bages F	2010	12×75cl	£1,140	10	96
The 2010 Lynch Bages is an absolutely brilliant wine, and somewhat reminiscent at this stage in its development of the profound 1989. Jean-Charles Cazes, who took over for his father a number of years ago, has produced a magnificent wine with the classic creme de cassis note intermixed with smoke, graphite and spring flowers. It is a massive Lynch Bages, full-bodied and very 1989-ish, with notable power, loads of tannin, and extraordinary concentration and precision. This is not a Lynch Bages to drink in its exuberant youth, but one to hold on to for 5-6 years and drink over the following three decades.
Lynch Bages F	2011	12×75cl	£740	10	90-93
Another strong effort produced under the administration of Jean-Charles Cazes (the son of Jean-Michel Cazes, who spent decades building Lynch Bages into one of the most popular Bordeaux estates), the 2011 boasts an inky/purple hue in addition to copious aromas of black currants, incense, forest floor and ink. Deep, rich, medium to full-bodied and layered with supple tannins as well as the vintage-s freshness and vibrancy, it should age easily for 20 years.
Lynch Bages F EP	2012	12×75cl	£670	10	87-89
Some of Lynch Bages’s tell-tale cedary, black currant, earth and spice characteristics are present in the 2012’s moderately intense bouquet. This wine exhibits good purity, a healthy dark ruby/purple color and medium body. There is a slight deficiency in the mid-palate, but it recovers sufficiently and offers up a decent finish that tails off ever so slightly. This good to excellent wine could use more fat and charm in the mid-section. Cellar it for a couple of years and drink it over the following 12-14 years.
Malartic LagraviereEP	2012	12×75cl	£239	2	91-93
This Belgian-owned estate has been making brilliant white and red Graves. Another beauty in a more difficult vintage than either 2009 or 2010, the 2012 Malartic Lagraviere is further evidence of how successful this vintage was in Pessac-Leognan. It possesses a dense purple color as well as a sumptuous perfume of creme de cassis, licorice, bay leaf, lead pencil shavings and barbecue smoke. Medium to full-bodied and richly fruity with soft tannin, surprising length and an impressive mid-palate (a rarity in 2012), it should drink well for 15 years.
Malartic Lagraviere BlancEP	2012	12×75cl	£380	2	91-94
Fatter, richer and more honeyed than usual, this 2012 is a top-notch success. It exhibits abundant glycerin, a layered, full-bodied mouthfeel, plenty of honeyed tropical fruits (pineapples), a striking minerality and a long finish. It should drink well for a decade or more. Drink: 2013 – 2023
Malescot St ExuperyEP	2012	12×75cl	£330	1	89-92
This wine offers attractive floral notes intermixed with notions of lavender, black currants, black cherries, smoke and earth. It is another successful effort from an estate that has been consistently producing exceptional wines in all the finest vintages over the last 15-20 years. An attractive, seductive, dense ruby/purple-hued, medium-bodied 2012, it finishes with some shortness, but everything leading up to the finish is impressive. Like most of these 2012s that possess a certain forward appeal, it should drink well for 12-15 years.
Margaux F	2006	6×75cl	£1,700	1	94
It is worth noting that when the bottled 2006 Chateau Margaux, which appeared closed and less impressive than I had predicted from barrel, was retasted alongside the remarkable 2008, I elevated my score to 94+. It does not possess the size or power of the 2008 or 2005, but the 2006 exhibits impressive density, a deeper color, and the beautifully textured, pure style that is a hallmark of this estate. Moreover, it is relatively precocious, and can be drunk now or cellared for 25+ years.
Margaux F	2008	12×75cl	£3,250	1	95-97
This is a superb vintage for Chateau Margaux, and while it may be too early to say this, the 2008 appears superior to the 2007, 2006, 2004, 2003, 2002, and 2001. Only 36% of the crop was utilized and the yields were 40 hectoliters per hectare. An exceptionally late harvest for this estate began on October 3 for the Merlot, and finished on October 23. The final blend includes a whoppingly high 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot, and dollops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. As always, the first characteristic one notices is the extraordinary floral component as well as the sweet black currant fruit allied to full-bodied richness, sweet tannin, and superb freshness and delineation. In many ways, the 2008 is reminiscent of the 1996, but the former wine is showing even more density and concentration than the 1996 did at the same point in its evolution. The 2008, which appears set for 30-40 years of longevity, is a remarkable effort from this great estate.
Margaux F	2009	12×75cl	£6,950	3	99
A brilliant offering from the Mentzelopoulos family, once again their gifted manager, Paul Pontallier, has produced an uncommonly concentrated, powerful 2009 Chateau Margaux made from 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. As with most Medocs, the alcohol here is actually lower (a modest 13.3%) than most of its siblings-. Abundant blueberry, cassis and acacia flower as well as hints of charcoal and forest floor aromas that are almost Burgundian in their complexity are followed by a wine displaying sweet, well-integrated tannins as well as a certain ethereal lightness despite the wine-s overall size. Rich, round, generous and unusually approachable for such a young Margaux, this 2009 should drink well for 30-35+ years.
Margaux F EP	2012	12×75cl	£2,800	3	92-94
This quintessentially finesse-styled Margaux exhibits notes of pure black currants, spring flowers, graphite and forest floor. With supple tannins and medium body, this pretty, stylish effort reminds me of the 2001 or perhaps a modern day, improved version of their 1979. The lovely 2012 should be drinkable in 4-5 years and last for two decades. Only about one-third of the total production made it into the 2012 Chateau Margaux, which is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Like many Medoc first-growths in this vintage, this estate-s aim was to make an elegant, supple-styled 2012 that emphasized the fruit, charm and delicacy of this terroir rather than pushing extraction and going for a powerhouse, which would have been difficult to produce in a vintage like 2012. The natural alcohol is 13%.
Margaux F EP	2012	6×75cl	£1,400	4	92-94
This quintessentially finesse-styled Margaux exhibits notes of pure black currants, spring flowers, graphite and forest floor. With supple tannins and medium body, this pretty, stylish effort reminds me of the 2001 or perhaps a modern day, improved version of their 1979. The lovely 2012 should be drinkable in 4-5 years and last for two decades. Only about one-third of the total production made it into the 2012 Chateau Margaux, which is a blend of 87% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Like many Medoc first-growths in this vintage, this estate-s aim was to make an elegant, supple-styled 2012 that emphasized the fruit, charm and delicacy of this terroir rather than pushing extraction and going for a powerhouse, which would have been difficult to produce in a vintage like 2012. The natural alcohol is 13%.
Marquis d’Alesme BeckerEP	2012	12×75cl	£220	3	88-90
This medium-bodied wine exhibits a dense purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of creme de cassis, blueberries and spring flowers with the oak clearly pushed to the background. It is a major revelation for the vintage. This cuvee has been so disappointing for so long that it was shocking to taste a wine of such remarkable quality emerge from this classified growth estate. This is the finest wine I have ever tasted from the Marquis d’Alesme Becker estate and its relatively new owner, Marjolain De Coninck. This 37-acre property has underperformed for about as long as I’ve been tasting in Bordeaux, nearly 35 years. However, in 2012, yields were cut to 35 hectoliters per hectare and the final blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot, 10% Petit Verdot and 5% Cabernet Franc hit 13.5% natural alcohol. It is an exclusive of American broker Jeffrey M. Davies.
Marquis de CalonEP	2012	12×75cl	£149	3	–
(Notes not available)
Marquis de TermeEP	2012	12×75cl	£250	2	85-87
A firm, narrowly constructed wine with a healthy color as well as attractive dusty, loamy soil notes intermixed with blue and black fruits, the 2012 Marquis de Terme’s earthiness, moderate tannin and moderately concentrated style suggest drinking it during its first 10-12 years of life.
Montrose F	2005	12×75cl	£925	5	95
The 2005 Montrose is an exceptionally tannic, broodingly backward offering displaying a dense ruby/purple color along with a provocative perfume of crushed rocks, flowers, cassis, black raspberries, and blueberries. It continues to add weight and richness, good traits considering the substantial, forbiddingly high tannin levels and zesty acidity. If you are over the age of fifty, this backward, powerful wine will probably be more enjoyable to your descendants. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040+
Montrose F	2006	12×75cl	£670	1	94
The first vintage under new owner Martin Bouygues,who convinced Jean-Bernard Delmas to come out of retirement to produce this wine, the 2006 Montrose is an undeniable success. A blend of approximately two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon, one-third Merlot, and a tiny dollop of Petit Verdot, the most dramatic difference between the 2006, and wines made by the previous administration is that Jean Delmas produces wines with sweeter, silkier tannins, although analytically, they are as high as those found in the great Montrose vintages of the past. The 2006 is extraordinarily elegant and finesse-styled, but it exhibits stunningly concentrated, sweet blackberry and cassis fruit with hints of flowers and minerals. Full-bodied with a savory, expansive mid-palate as well as sweet, noble tannins, this beauty will benefit from 3-4 years of bottle age, and should drink well for 20-25+ years.
Montrose F	2007	12×75cl	£520	10	91
One of the stars of the vintage, the 2007 Montrose boasts a deep blue/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. Dense and opulent with silky tannins, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, a long finish, and no hard edges, this beauty should drink well for 15+ years.
Montrose F	2008	6×75cl	£325	10	95
One of the superstars of the vintage, this classic Montrose is not as showy or opulent as the 2010, 2009 or 2003, but it offers a dense purple color followed by gorgeously sweet black raspberry and black currant fruit intermixed with loamy, earthy, forest floor notes, a floral component and a long, full-bodied finish. The 2008 was fashioned from yields of 44 hectoliters per hectare which is slightly less than the 2010’s 45 hectoliters per hectare. Forget it for 5-8 years and drink it over the following 20+.
Montrose F	2009	12×75cl	£2,350	1	100
A colossal effort, the 2009 Montrose represents a hypothetical blend of the monumental duo of 1989 and 1990 combined with the phenomenal 2003. With 13.7% alcohol (an all-time high at Montrose), it is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot and the rest tiny quantities of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Some structure and minerality can be detected in the background, but the overall impression is one of massive blackberry, black currant and mulberry fruit intermixed with forest floor, damp earth, crushed rocks and a hint of spring flowers. Full-bodied with sweet but abundant tannin, Jean-Bernard Delmas believes this is the greatest wine he has made during his short tenure at Montrose since retiring from Haut-Brion. This wine will undoubtedly shut down for a decade, then unleash its power, glory and potential perfection. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050+.
Montrose F	2010	12×75cl	£1,600	5	99
The 2010 Montrose is a fabulous wine, and I was leaning toward giving it a three-digit score, which it may ultimately merit after it resolves some of its very sweet tannin. It is not as soft or flamboyant as the 2009, but it is a great classic, coming in at 13.9% natural alcohol. Representing 64% of the total production, the final blend is 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot (which is one percent different than the barrel sample blends that were presented). Inky bluish/purple in color, with classic blueberry, black currant, crushed rock and floral notes, hints of graphite, and lots of wild mountain berry fruit, this wine is extravagantly rich, has very sweet but noticeable tannin, laser-like precision, a massive, full-bodied mouthfeel and a finish of close to 50+ seconds. This remarkable wine will probably tighten up somewhat in the bottle, and need most of a decade to shed some tannin and its rather grapy, primary personality. The finish blew me away, and the overall power, richness and balance of this wine are virtually perfect. Look for it to drink well for half a century or more. Although Jean Delmas remains a consultant at Montrose, he has yielded his primary responsibilities over to a younger staff, but he still believes the 2010 Montrose is one of the all-time great wines ever produced at this estate, equaling or exceeding the quality of the 1929, 1945, 1959, 1961, 1989, 1990 or 2009.
Montrose F	2011	12×75cl	£770	5	91-93
A strong effort, the 2011 Montrose exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to abundant black currant and boysenberry fruit notes intermixed with white chocolate, damp earth, truffle and camphor. Medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin and impressive concentration, this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot hit nearly 13% natural alcohol (relatively high in Bordeaux, but lower than the 13.2% in 2009 and 13.8% in 2010). The 2011 should drink well for 15 or more years. The harvest at Montrose was held between September 2-27, and only a tiny parcel in the southern sector of the vineyard was touched by the hail storm that swept through the Pauillac / St.-Estephe border on September 1.
Montrose F EP	2012	12×75cl	£630	1	92-94
The inky/purple-colored 2012 offers up scents of white chocolate, creme de cassis, acacia flowers, crushed rocks and forest floor. The tannins are surprisingly soft as the pH is about 3.7, which is slightly higher than the 2010’s 3.6. This dense, full-bodied wine is still somewhat monolithic, but it is loaded with concentration and power as well as a long finish. While not totally formed, all the component parts are present. The 2012 will not match the level of the 2009 and 2010, but it should stand out as one of the highlights of 2012. Only 52% of the production made it into the 2012 Montrose, a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon (harvested between October 13 and 20), 37% Merlot (picked during the third week of September) and a tiny amount of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. The pH was 3.7 and I suspect the alcohol level pushes 14%. It is one of the top successes of the vintage. As new administrator Herve Berland indicated, the severe six-week drought caused the Cabernet skins to become very thick, thus resisting the huge rainfall that fell between October 7 and 9. The late harvest dates suggest very ripe Cabernet Sauvignon, which appears to be exactly what has occurred.
Mouton Rothschild F	1982	12×75cl	£10,950	1	100
This wine remains one of the legends of Bordeaux. It has thrown off the backward, youthful style that existed during its first 25 years of life, and over the last 4-5 years has developed such secondary nuances as cedar and spice box. The creme de cassis, underlying floral note, full-bodied power, extraordinary purity, multilayered texture, and finish of over a minute are a showcase for what this Chateau accomplished in 1982. The wine is still amazingly youthful, vibrant, and pure. It appears capable of remaining fruity and vibrant in 2082! Thank God it is beginning to budge, as I would like to drink most of my supply before I kick the bucket. This is a great, still youthful wine, and, on occasion, one does understand the hierarchy of Bordeaux chateaux when you see the complexity and brilliance of this first-growth. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050+ Release price: ($350.00/case)
Mouton Rothschild F	2006	12×75cl	£4,200	1	98
A sensational effort, the 2006 Mouton Rothschild exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a classic Mouton perfume of creme de cassis, flowers, blueberries, and only a hint of oak. Dalhuin told me that in whisky barrel-tasting vintages such as 1989 and 1990, Mouton was aged in heavily-toasted barrels, and they have backed off to a much lighter toast for the barrels’ interior. I think this has worked fabulously well with the cassis quality fruit they get from their Cabernet Sauvignon. The full-bodied, powerful 2006 possesses extraordinary purity and clarity. A large-scaled, massive Mouton Rothschild that ranks as one of the top four or five wines of the vintage, it may turn out to be the longest-lived wine of the vintage by a landslide. The label will undoubtedly be controversial as a relative of Sigmund Freud, Lucian Freud, has painted a rather comical Zebra staring aimlessly at what appears to be a palm tree in the middle of a stark courtyard. I suppose a psychiatrist could figure out the relationship between that artwork and wine, but I couldn’t see one. This utterly profound Mouton will need to sleep for 15+ years before it will reveal any secondary nuances, but it is a packed and stacked first-growth Pauillac of enormous potential. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2060+.
Mouton Rothschild F	2007	12×75cl	£3,000	5	92
Composed of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot, the deep purple-colored 2007 Mouton reveals sweet aromas of creme de cassis, subtle oak, and flowers. Medium to full-bodied and elegant with sweet tannin as well as flavors and a texture that build incrementally on the palate, this strong effort should evolve over the next 15 years.
Mouton Rothschild F	2008	12×75cl	£3,600	1	94
The final blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot exhibits tell-tale black currant liqueur, incense, charcoal and floral-like characteristics. The oak is pushed to the background, one of the major improvements director Philippe Dalhuin has made at this estate. Full-bodied, deep and impressively endowed, it is a deep, rich, less massive effort than either the 2010 or 2009. This gorgeous Mouton will be drinkable in 4-5 years and age effortlessly for three decades.
Mouton Rothschild F	2009	12×75cl	£5,850	1	99
The 2009 Mouton Rothschild has a striking label from Anish Kapoor. The wine is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot that begs comparison as a young wine with what the 1982 tasted like in 1985 or, I suspect, what the 1959 may have tasted like in 1962. Representing 50% of their production, the wine has an inky purple color to the rim and not terribly high alcohol for a 2009 (13.2%), but that is reflected by the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a remarkable nose of lead pencil shavings, violets, creme de cassis and subtle barrique smells. It is stunningly opulent, fat, and super-concentrated, but the luxurious fruit tends to conceal some rather formidable tannins in the finish. This is an amazing wine that will be slightly more drinkable at an earlier age than I thought from barrel, but capable of lasting 50 or more years. Kudos to the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild and the entire Mouton team, lead by Monsieur Dalhuin.
Mouton Rothschild F EP	2012	12×75cl	£2,950	2	95-97
The intensely ripe Cabernet Sauvignon grown on the plateau at Mouton has produced an inky/purple-colored wine with the famous Mouton creme de cassis and floral characteristics vividly displayed. For the first time in a number of years they appear to have outdistanced their cross street rival, the biodynamically farmed Chateau Pontet Canet of Alfred Tesseron. Wonderfully sweet tannins envelop the enormous fruit and extravagant richness of this full-bodied Mouton Rothschild. With profound density as well as surprisingly sweet tannin, this terrific effort will probably shut down slightly and require 5-8 years of cellaring after bottling. It appears to have 30 or more years of aging potential, making it potentially one of the 3 or 4 longest-lived wines of the vintage. Mouton Rothschild has produced one of the vintage-s most profound wines in 2012, and possibly the -wine of the Medoc.- About 49% of the production made it into the 2012 Mouton, which is a blend of 90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Merlot and 2% Cabernet Franc. The harvest took place during the middle two weeks of October. This may be one of the few 2012s that comes close to equaling what was achieved in both 2009 and 2010, two far superior vintages.
PalmerEP	2012	12×75cl	£1,690	5	92-95
The 2012 Palmer’s inky/purple color is more saturated than most Margaux’s, and it offers complex notes of blackberries, cassis, licorice, truffle and spring flowers. The wine is dense, rich and full-bodied with a muscular appeal, but the tannins, as high as they are, are sweet and well-integrated. None of the new oak used during the wine-s upbringing is noticeable. Interestingly, this wine showed no evidence of dilution from the October 7-9 rainfall. I suspect it will require 3-4 years of cellaring, and should last for two decades. Thomas Duroux produced a brilliant 2012 Palmer that is unquestionably one of the stars of the vintage. High levels of tannin were up there with their best vintages, at least analytically. The final blend of 48% Merlot, 46% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Petit Verdot results in a style of wine that is totally different than that of its nearby neighbors, Chateau Margaux, Rauzan-Segla and Malescot St.-Exupery.
Pape ClementEP	2012	12×75cl	£549	3	92-95
The 2012 Pape Clement is one of the stars of the vintage, which is not surprising given this estate’s performances over the last 10-15 years. A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 46% Merlot, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Franc, it exhibits an opaque ruby/purple color along with a beautifully sweet, graphite-scented nose with hints of black currants, Asian plum sauce, soy and forest floor. Impressively built with medium to full-bodied flavors, it has more layers than many wines from this vintage, an appealing density and a velvety texture. Yields were a modest 37 hectoliters per hectare and the wine finished at 13.5% natural alcohol. This 132-acre estate has once again produced a prodigious wine in a challenging vintage. Bravo to proprietor Bernard Magrez!
Pape Clement BlancEP	2012	6×75cl	£520	3	95-98
The 2012 Pape Clement, a profound blend of 45% Sauvignon Blanc, 44% Semillon, 5% Sauvignon Gris and the rest Muscadelle, is once again a fabulous effort. Gorgeous notes of honeysuckle, pineapple, orange blossoms and mangoes soar from the glass of this full-bodied, unctuously textured, zesty, well-delineated white Pessac-Leognan from a suburb of Bordeaux. Drink it over the next 15-20 years.
Pape Clement Rouge	2010	75×6cl	£750	10	100
I certainly underrated the 2010 Pape Clement from barrel, rating it only 93-95+. (Thank God I put a “plus” there!) Having tasted it four times in Bordeaux, and rating it perfect three times and 99 the fourth time, this final blend of 51% Merlot, 47.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 1.5% Petit Verdot is perfection in a bottle. Tipping the scales at 14.5% natural alcohol, there are 8,000 cases of it. Its sublime elegance, the power, the medium to full-bodied texture, the silky tannins, the subtle notes of smoke, lead pencil shavings, black currants, charcoal, camphor, blueberry and cassis fruit are all remarkable. It is a rich, full-throttle wine, but the elegance and the great terroir of Pape Clement come through in abundance. It is slightly more developed and evolved than the 2005 was at a similar point in its evolution, but it certainly needs another 5-7 years to develop further nuances, which it surely will. This wine will last 30-40+ years. Kudos to proprietor Bernard Magrez, who has built an empire based on high quality more than any other characteristic.
Pavie	2009	12×75cl	£2,700	10	100
Another brilliant effort from Gerard Perse, this great vineyard (now just over 90 acres in size with the average age of the vines 45 years) was cropped at 28 hectoliters per hectare. It obviously missed all the damaging hail in mid-May of 2009, and was harvested between October 5 and 15. Everything here is done with extraordinary gentleness and precision. The result is a powerful, full-bodied, remarkably intense wine that is black/purple in color. It will require considerable patience, much like 2000 and 2005. It displays enormous creme de cassis and boysenberry fruit with some cherries, spice box, and crushed rock in the background. It is intense, with loads of minerality, huge extraction, massive power, yet again, the vintage character seems to have given it a freshness and vibrancy despite the wine’s obvious viscosity. The minimum patience required is at least a decade, as this is another 40-year wine from Gerard Perse. (Tasted five times.)
PavieEP	2012	6×75cl	£950	5	94-96
The full-bodied, opaque purple-hued 2012 exhibits a beautiful nose of mulberries, black cherries, cedar wood, high quality toasty oak, lead pencil shavings, crushed chalk and floral notes. This complex, authoritative, full-throttle Pavie possesses much more accessibility and precociousness than most vintages. It is another brilliant effort from proprietors Chantal and Gerard Perse. It should be drinkable in 8-10 years and last for three decades. From 47-year-old vines, Pavie, one of the largest estates in St.-Emilion (92 acres), has once again hit pay dirt with their 2012 Pavie. Yields were 28 hectoliters per hectare (which is slightly above the 26 hectoliters per hectare in 2010), and the harvest was exceptionally late. The tannins may be the sweetest of any young Pavie I have tasted since the 2001 (which the 2012 vaguely resembles).
Pavie MacquinEP	2012	12×75cl	£380	3	92-95
A dense blue/black color is accompanied by notes of creosote, graphite, black fruits, vanillin, chocolate and tapenade. Rich, concentrated and full-bodied, it has a spicy, compacted, layered mouthfeel. Given how past vintages seemed to close down after bottling, this beauty will probably need 5-6 years of cellaring and keep for two decades or more. A stunning blend of 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2012 Pavie Macquin came in at 14.4% natural alcohol. This vineyard, which enjoys a tremendous terroir high on the plateau above Pavie Decesse, is planted in pure limestone and clay soils. The harvest took place between October 17-18.
Pavillon Rouge F	2009	12×75cl	£1,040	10	91-93
The dark ruby/purple-hued 2009 Pavillon Rouge de Chateau Margaux offers a big, sweet kiss of spring flowers intermixed with blueberries and blackberries, a silky texture, and a dense, concentrated, but seamless mouthfeel. This glorious wine should drink well for 20 or more years. (Tasted once.) Paul Pontallier told me they had never had such levels of concentration and tannin as they did in 2009, exceeding anything they ever produced since the Mentzelopoulos family purchased this property in 1978. Pontallier believes 1996 is the closest stylistically, but 2009 is significantly more concentrated than that vintage. I do not disagree because tasting the second wine, Pavillon Rouge du Chateau Margaux, demonstrates that the 2009 is far superior to almost every Chateau Margaux made in the fifties, sixties, and seventies, except for the 1961 and 1953.
PedesclauxEP	2012	12×75cl	£210	2	89-92
The wine exhibits Pauillac’s classic note of creme de cassis intermixed with vanillin, espresso and white chocolate. Medium to full-bodied and rich, with 13% natural alcohol, this 10,000-case cuvee should drink well for 15-20 years. Perhaps the key here was that the Cabernet Sauvignon was picked relatively late, between October 10 and 14. That appears to have given the wine an extra level of intensity and richness. Given the fact that this property, purchased in 2009 by real estate entrepreneur Jacky Lorenzetti, for decades has been a candidate for the most disappointing classified growth of Pauillac, the 2012 Pedesclaux is a revelation. Certainly the finest Pedesclaux I have ever tasted, it was made from stunningly low yields of 22 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend was 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 32% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. Finally, the 2012 reveals the potential of this vineyard which sits on the high Pauillac plateau adjacent to Pontet Canet and Mouton Rothschild.
Petit Cheval	2009	6×75cl	£600	2	91
Possibly the finest second wine Cheval Blanc has yet produced, the 2009 Le Petit Cheval is a blend of 35% Merlot and 65% Cabernet Franc. It exhibits more caramelized notes than the grand vin along with a luscious, open-knit, subtle herbaceous component. This fleshy, sexy 2009 is ideal for drinking over the next decade.
Petit Haut Lafitte	2009	12×75cl	£215	20	–
(Notes not available)
Petit VillageEP	2012	12×75cl	£429	3	90-92
Following a strong 2010, the 2012 Petit Village is impressive. Pure, ripe tapenade-tinged black currant and black cherry fruit aromas intermixed with hints of licorice and incense jump from the glass of this medium-bodied, velvety-textured, fleshy, succulent Pomerol. A note of spicy oak is well-integrated. Drink this 2012 over the next 12-15 years.
Phélan SegurEP	2012	12×75cl	£235	2	84-86
A hollow middle appears to be the undoing of this St.-Estephe. It exhibits a deep ruby/plum color along with black raspberry and currant fruit and hints of tobacco leaf, licorice and wet earth. It starts well, has a dark color and finishes with ripe tannin, but its lack of a mid-palate is worrisome. I am unsure whether it will eventually fill out or not.
Phelan Segur	2009	12×75cl	£250	5	90
Like many of the top 2009s, Phelan-Segur is a huge, full-bodied effort with massive fruit as well as good freshness, precision, and elegance. This is all rather paradoxical given previous great vintages that either lean toward cooler vintage characteristics or hot ones. This 2009 possesses both styles. It exhibits lots of mulberry, boysenberry, and crushed, jammy black fruits, abundant tannin, medium to full body, an opulent mouthfeel, and enough structure to evolve for two decades or more. This is a sleeper of the vintage. (Tasted two times.)
Pichon Baron F	2005	12×75cl	£975	6	94
As usual, this superb Pauillac possesses an inky/blue/black color in addition to a big, sweet nose of graphite, charcoal, burning embers, black currant liqueur, and toasty vanillin from new oak casks. Full-bodied with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, the 2005 Pichon Baron is more backward than the blockbuster 2003 or prodigious 2000. Nevertheless, it is a superb effort whose power, length, and tannic structure suggest it should be at its peak between 2015-2035.
Pichon Baron F	2010	12×75cl	£1,590	5	97-99
Jancis: Decanter: Neal Martin: /> Parker review: 2010: A prodigious, blockbuster effort from Pichon Longueville Baron, the 2010 is reminiscent of this estate’s titanic offerings in 1989 and 1990, but may be even greater with 30 years of longevity. Kudos to proprietor AXA and general director Christian Seeley. It was absolutely compelling on each of the three times I tasted it. Black/purple-colored with super concentration and richness as well as full body, it offers an awesome display of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, camphor and spring flowers. Stunningly pure and unctuously textured with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this superstar of the vintage is definitely a wine to purchase as a future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.
Pichon Baron F EP	2012	12×75cl	£715	5	90-93
A strong effort from this Pauillac chateau, most of the old vine Cabernet Sauvignon from their parcels near Latour made it into the 2012 Pichon Longueville Baron’s final blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot. A dense purple color is accompanied by an attractive bouquet of incense, cassis, cedar and toasty oak. It is medium to full-bodied as well as bigger, richer and brawnier than most Medoc 2012s. Noticeable tannin in the finish suggests 3-4 years of cellaring is warranted. Drink it over the following two decades.
Pichon Lalande F	2011	12×75cl	£775	5	92-94
Only 40% of the crop made it into the grand vin, which achieved 12.95% natural alcohol. The final blend for the 2011 Pichon Lalande was 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Cabernet Franc, 8% Merlot and 2% Petit Verdot. Under the administration of the new owners, the Merlot component has been dramatically reduced in favor of more Cabernet Sauvignon in the final blend. A strong effort, the 2011 boasts a dense ruby/purple color and abundant aromas of black currants intermixed with unsmoked cigar tobacco, serious body, more concentration than most of the classified growths, and a bigger, more structured style that may suggest a subtle change in the winemaking philosophy at this estate. This impressive wine is one of the vintage’s most interesting efforts. It should drink well for 15-20 years.
Pichon Lalande F EP	2012	12×75cl	£635	3	91-93
Coming in at a lofty 13.2% natural alcohol, it offers up scents of black currants, white chocolate, berries, cedar and forest floor. Sweet tannin, a round opulence and medium body result in a classic, supple-textured Pauillac that should drink well young and keep for 12-15 years. It is very much in keeping with what most readers would consider the “house style” of Pichon Lalande, despite the fact that they are moving to ward more Cabernet Sauvignon and less Petit Verdot in the final blend. Fifty percent of the crop made it into the final blend of 2012 Pichon Lalande, which includes more and more Cabernet Sauvignon under the new ownership of the Roederer Champagne firm. The 2012 is a blend of 59% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 5% Petit Verdot. Drink: 2013 – 2028
Pontet Canet F	2003	12×75cl	£790	7	95
One cannot say enough about the labors of proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who has personally overseen the dramatic increase in quality of the wines at Pontet-Canet which started in a significant manner with 1994. This is a classic Pauillac-styled wine (meaning oodles of cassis flavors), as one might expect from a vineyard on the plateau of Pauillac, across the street from Mouton-Rothschild. One of the great successes of the vintage and certainly one of the most profound Pontet-Canets made over the last decade is the 2003. Deep purple to the rim with a glorious nose of scorched earth, black currant jam, smoke, licorice, and roasted meats, it is full-bodied, incredibly powerful, dense, with low acidity but high tannin, broad-shouldered, and savory. This is a stunning, pure, classic Pontet-Canet that should be at its best between 2010 and 2035.
Pontet Canet F	2009	12×75cl	£1,600	1	100
An amazing wine in every sense, this classic, full-bodied Pauillac is the quintessential Pontet Canet from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who continues to reduce yields and farms his vineyards biodynamically – a rarity in Bordeaux. Black as a moonless night, the 2009 Pontet Canet offers up notes of incense, graphite, smoke, licorice, creme de cassis and blackberries. A wine of irrefutable purity, laser-like precision, colossal weight and richness, and sensational freshness, this is a tour de force in winemaking that is capable of lasting 50 or more years. The tannins are elevated, but they are sweet and beautifully integrated as are the acidity, wood and alcohol (which must be in excess of 14%). This vineyard, which is situated on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, appears to have done everything perfectly in 2009. This cuvee should shut down in the cellar and re-open in a decade or more. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2075.
Pontet Canet F	2011	12×75cl	£720	10	93-95
Once again proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a wine of first-growth potential. One of the superstars of the vintage, Pontet-Canet’s 2011 exhibits an opaque purple color and a glorious bouquet of incense, subtle toast and copious quantities of creme de cassis. There is a floral underpinning, decent acidity and ripe tannin to this full-bodied effort. Big, rich, round and generously endowed, it should drink well for 20-25+ years.
Pontet Canet F EP	2012	12×75cl	£685	5	91-94
A softer, less powerful and less prodigiously endowed Pontet Canet, the 2012 exhibits notes of creme de cassis and new barrique vanillin followed by a medium-bodied, elegant wine with sweeter tannin (and less of it) than is found in the great vintages that immediately precede it. The 2012 is certainly outstanding and, in fact, many readers may prefer it to the blockbuster, out-of-this-world, over-sized 2010, 2009 and 2008. Medium-bodied, pure and expressive, this classic Pauillac should only require 5-6 years of cellaring. It should drink well for two decades thereafter. No one will confuse the 2012 Pontet Canet with the 2008, 2009 or 2010, but proprietor Alfred Tesseron has turned in another high level performance in this more challenging vintage (especially true in the Medoc).
Prieure LichineEP	2012	12×75cl	£255	5	86-88
This restrained, but cleanly made, solid Margaux possesses a dense ruby/purple color as well as plenty of red and black currant fruit notes intermixed with notions of graphite and camphor. A reticent, medium-bodied wine reveals a slight deficiency on the mid-palate, but it picks up in the finish with attractive fruit and light to moderate tannin. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.
Rauzan SeglaEP	2012	12×75cl	£415	6	93-95
The 2012 Rauzan Segla may turn out to be as strong an effort as their 2010. A brilliant blend of 54.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot (which accounts for the wine’s ripeness and intensity), and the rest a tiny dollop of 1.5% Petit Verdot, it boasts an inky/blue/purple color as well as gorgeous aromas of black and blue fruits, spring flowers, and hints of background toast and forest floor. Well-integrated wood and acidity as well as moderately ripe tannins make for a medium to full-bodied, expansive, flavorful, rich, well-delineated effort. It will need 3-5 years of bottle age and should drink well for two decades thereafter.
Raymond Lafon	2009	12×75cl	£245	4	92-94
There is a little SO2 on the nose at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a citric entry, touches of apricot and lime, tightly coiled towards the finish with the acidity slicing through the viscous honey fruit with a touch of Tropicana. Again, this is a very focused, tensile Sauternes with beguiling clarity.
Raymond Lafon	2011	12×75cl	£240	5	90-92
The 2011 Raymond Lafon was picked from three tries representing six lots (the first and last de-selected for the second label) between September 19 and October 5, the earliest harvest since 1893. It has 149 grams per liter residual sugar and a pH of 3.83. It has an understated bouquet of honey, grilled almond, pineapple and quince aromas. It comes across as tight and not expressive at this early stage, but that will certainly change. The palate offers a light, almond and quince-tinged entry and it represents a lighter, feminine take on the vintage. It is a Raymond Lafon that will be beautifully balanced and endowed with a precise finish that neatly offsets sweetness against acidity. Drink 2013-2028. Neal Martin
Rieussec	2006	12×75cl	£270	5	–
(Notes not available)
Rieussec	2010	12×75cl	£260	10	–
(Notes not available)
Rieussec	2011	12×75cl	£350	5	91-93
The 2011 Rieussec has a lifted, at the moment quite oaky, bouquet with scents of honey, almond and pineapple. Hopefully it will develop more definition by the time of bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with tropical fruit and mandarin on the entry and a satisfying viscous core of honeyed fruit. It seems a little disjointed towards the finish, although I am sure it will become more cohesive by the time of bottling. For me, it just seems a little predictable. Drink 2015-2028+. Neal Martin
RougetEP	2012	12×75cl	£260	3	90-93
The 2012 boasts a deep blue/purple color along with a big, sweet nose of kirsch liqueur, lavender, balsam wood, truffles and lead pencil shavings. The complex aromatics are followed by a full-bodied, opulently-textured, fleshy wine that has more in common with a 2009 than most 2012s tend to possess. This outstanding sleeper of the vintage should drink well for 10-15 years. Proprietor Jean-Pierre Labruyere has done a magnificent job of resurrecting Rouget despite the fact that this is not one of the best terroirs. Since Labruyere has had control, the wine has gone from strength to strength. It is a large vineyard by Pomerol standards (42 acres), and the final blend for the 2012 is 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc.
Saint Pierre	2010	12×75cl	£775	10	97
The final blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon and 22% Merlot has resulted in a wine of great power, stature, gravitas and density. The wine has a black purple color and a brilliant nose of scorched earth, creme de cassis, espresso roast, blackberries, truffles and licorice. Full-bodied, extremely powerful, yet with abundant sweet tannin, this stunning effort should prove sensational if given 7-10 years of cellaring. It should also last for 30-40 years. This is another brilliant wine from Jean-Louis Triaud, who is also responsible for the brilliant resurrection of the cru bourgeois, Gloria. This is one of the smallest estates in St.-Julien, with only about 6,000 cases produced, and even less were produced in 2010 than in 2009.
SenejacEP	2012	12×75cl	£89	7	16
Refreshing pure cassis and pretty cedary. Smooth, savoury and still juicy. Lovely dry fine-grained finish. Attractive, relatively delicate, in a leafy style. 16/ 20, Julia Harding, JancisRobinson.com
Smith Haut Lafitte	2011	12×75cl	£470	2	91-93
An impressive effort, this 2011 exhibits a dense saturated ruby/purple color along with lots of graphite, black currant and camphor notes, medium to full body, and surprising depth, richness and length. Tannins are present, but they are relatively sweet and unobtrusive. A crisp character gives the wine vibrancy as well as impressive delineation. It should drink well for 15+ years.
Smith Haut LafitteEP	2012	12×75cl	£445	3	92-94
A brilliant success again, this blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 40% Merlot, 4% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot is a medium-bodied, impressively concentrated wine with copious quantities of red and black fruits. Licorice, roasted herbs and a touch of background oak are present in this slightly precocious wine, which should be accessible when released. It has the depth to evolve for 20 or more years. Talk about a severe selection – only 41% made it into the grand vin!
Smith Haut Lafitte Blanc	2011	12×75cl	£595	3	92-94
A blend of 90% Sauvignon Blanc and 5% each of Semillon and Sauvignon Gris, this has a lifted mineral-rich bouquet scents of oyster shell, yuzu and apricot with fine delineation (the Sauvignon Blanc not particularly evident.) It is very attractive and very well defined. The palate is fresh and crisp on the entry, showing more weight and structure than the Les Haut de Smith but has a similar flavour profile. It has a satisfying citric kick on the finish. Excellent. Neal Martin
Smith Haut Lafitte BlancEP	2012	12×75cl	£635	2	93-95
Under the capable hands of the Cathiard family, this property has been producing fabulous red and white wines. The 2012, another brilliant effort, exhibits notes of orange rind, figs, mangoes, pineapples and caramelized citrus presented in a full-bodied, heady, powerful style. It should drink well for 15-20 years.
Suduiraut	2011	12×75cl	£465	4	93-95
Picked over three tries through the vineyard from September 12 until October 5, the Suduiraut 2011 has 150 grams per liter residual sugar counterbalanced by a pH of 3.7. It has an intense nose, albeit one that takes time to unfurl in the glass, offering attractive notes of citrus lemon, minerals, apricot and quince suffused with great tension. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, citrus-led fruit mingling with apricot and quince. It has less bravura and ambition than the 2009 or 2010, and you might consider it a Barsac-like Suduiraut due to its racy acidity. It has wonderful focus and satisfying length, and it should drink well both early and with age. Drink 2014-2035. Neal Martin
TalbotEP	2012	12×75cl	£295	5	90-92
A strong effort from Talbot, this sexy, medium to full-bodied, richly fruity 2012 exhibits lots of creme de cassis, licorice, roasted herb and spice box characteristics in an evolved yet elegant, round, lush style that was surprisingly seductive and disarming. This offering stood out as one of the stars of St.-Julien. Drink it over the next 12-15 years.
Troplong Mondot	2010	12×75cl	£1,120	4	99
Inky, bluish/black/purple, with notes of spring flowers, licorice, camphor, graphite, and a boatload of blueberry, black raspberry and blackberry fruit, this is a powerful, full-bodied Troplong Mondot. All the building components of acidity, tannin, wood and alcohol are judiciously and impressively integrated. It is a blend of 90% Merlot and the rest equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc made by Christine Valette and her husband Xavier Pariente with the consultancy help of Michel Rolland. I-m not sure what the heady alcohol level is in Troplong Mondot in 2010 (it certainly must be in the 15%+ range), but it is well-concealed behind the extravagant, richness, full-bodied power, and pure nobility of this majestic wine. Forget this for 5-7 years and drink it over the following three decades. An absolutely stunning wine from this estate, which seems to be on a mission to produce exquisite world-class wines with enormous aging potential, the 2010 is showing better from bottle than it even did from barrel.
Troplong MondotEP	2012	12×75cl	£595	2	94-96
One of the superstars of the vintage, it boasts an inky/purple color as well as abundant notes of blueberry liqueur, graphite, truffles, acacia flowers and subtle toast. Full-bodied, opulent and already easy to drink, this large-scaled wine possesses high levels of tannin, but they are relatively well-concealed by the extravagant fruit, glycerin, texture and density of this compelling Troplong Mondot. This impressive wine may shut down after bottling and require 4-5 years of cellaring. It has the potential to last at least 15-20 years. Bravo! From a 63-acre vineyard on the high plateau (called the Plateau of Mondot) adjacent to the famous limestone hillside, the Cote Pavie, the 2012 Troplong Mondot is another fabulous success. Cropped at 31 hectoliters per hectare with malolactic in barrel, this blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon hit 14.2% natural alcohol. Three-fourths of the production went into the grand vin.
Vieux Chateau Certan	2011	12×75cl	£1,100	1	94-96
Made in a big, bold style with 13.6% natural alcohol, it reveals a stunning perfume of graphite, mulberries, black currants, kirsch, licorice and forest floor. This full-bodied, dense Pomerol transcends the overall vintage character. Thienpont compared the style of the 2011 with their 2000, but with more density to its core because of the extremely low yields. Only 60% of the crop made it into this cuvee. It will need 5-8 years of cellaring, and should still be intact and drinking beautifully at age 30. A candidate for the top wine of Pomerol, Alexandre Thienpont calls the 2011 a return to the more classic style of Vieux Chateau Certan after the exotic, over-the-top 2009 and 2010. A blend of 70% Merlot, 29% Cabernet Franc (the highest in a number of years) and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2011 was harvested between September 7-20.
Vray Croix de GayEP	2012	12×75cl	£345	5	–
(Notes not available)
Y d’Yquem Ygrec	2011	6×75cl	£458	10	–
" "Y" is a powerful wine which reflects all the potential of grapes at Yquem, before they are transformed by noble rot – Bottled in September 2012, the 2011 vintage of Y is a superb example of the new generation of this wine. It displays intense Sauvignon Blanc aromas and delicate overtones of Sémillon. The former contributes grapefruit, tropical fruit and basil nuances as well as crispness on the palate whereas the latter adds a round, smooth texture and hints of pear and white peaches. This wine is incredibly fresh and vibrant with delicious fruity and floral aromas, as well as a beautiful long aftertaste." – Chateau d’Yquem
Yquem	1998	24×38cl	£1,350	1	91
The 1998 Chateau Yquem was released several months ago. This estate does not allow tasting from cask (where the wine spends 42 months), and it is not released until five years after the vintage. The 1998 Yquem (95 points) is a great success. Made in an elegant style, it is not a blockbuster such as 1990, 1989, and 1988. It is well-delineated, with wonderfully sweet aromas of creme brulee, pineapples, apricots, and white flowers. Medium to full-bodied, it is not as sweet as the biggest/richest Yquem vintages, but it is gorgeously pure, precise, and strikingly complex. Already approachable, it should evolve for 30-50 years ... without a doubt.
Yquem	2001	24×38cl	£4,800	1	100
There are 10,000 cases of this perfect sweet white Bordeaux. The 2001 Yquem reveals a hint of green in its light gold color. While somewhat reticent aromatically, with airing, it offers up honeyed tropical fruit, orange marmalade, pineapple, sweet creme brulee, and buttered nut-like scents. In the mouth, it is full-bodied with gorgeously refreshing acidity as well as massive concentration and unctuosity. Everything is uplifted and given laser-like focus by refreshing acidity. This large-scaled, youthful Yquem appears set to take its place among the most legendary vintages of the past, and will age effortlessly for 75+ years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2100+.

Burgundy
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Comte de Vogue Musigny VV	2009	1×75cl	£500	8	–
(Notes not available)
Comte de Vogue Musigny VV 2005 6×75	2005	6×75cl	£4,500	1	96-98
My notes on the 2005 Musigny Vieilles Vignes represent a composite impression from a selection of barrels. There can be little question that this deep, dark wine displays its class of origin, indeed a class of its own in this year’s collection. Fresh black raspberry, pomegranate, blackberry, and iris dominate the nose and stain the palate. A wealth of spice, mineral, chalky and bitter-sweet floral nuances persistently wreath the fruit at all stages. This shows lovely creaminess of texture in counterpoint to the persistent freshness of fruit. The intensely rich yet refreshing palate saturation and tenacious cling exhibited auger well for extended cellaring yet don’t detract from an impression of utmost elegance and refinement. The domaine will begin bottling the wines in spring and all will, as usual, receive “the minimum, gentlest possible” filtration. Francois Millet notes that skin-to-juice ratios this year were as formidably high as those of 2003, yet thanks to relatively mild temperatures, the fruit retained what he terms a “sorbet-like presentation.”
Comtes Lafon Meursault les Genevrieres	2007	12×75cl	£1,590	1	93
By contrast with the expressiveness of the Goutte d’Or, this is much more reserved and with a different aromatic profile more given to seductive and slightly exotic spices, citrus blossom and orange peel that leads to classy, rich, full and naturally sweet palate coating flavors as the dry extract is every bit as impressive. Like all of the Lafon ‘07s, it is the impeccable balance that really sets these wines apart and the Genevrières is a wine of perfect harmony, particularly on the linear and explosive finish. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Comtes Lafon Montrachet	2008	1×75cl	£650	6	93-96
The nose is troubled from the very late malo and thus quite difficult to fairly judge but the broad-shouldered and overtly muscular flavors possess serious power and imposing weight while carrying seemingly buckets of dry extract that really coat and stain the palate on the explosive and hugely long finish. It’s clear that this is much, much less evolved than the other wines in the range and I suspect that it will develop equally slowly in bottle too. Allen Meadows, Burghound
DRC Montrachet	2008	1×75cl	£2,400	1	97
An exceptionally ripe and overtly exotic nose of genuinely mind-boggling complexity displays botrytis notes, pineapple, apricot, mango, spice, white peach and citrus aromas. The broad-shouldered and extremely concentrated flavors are plush and opulent before culminating in an incredibly intense finish that is given lift and shape by the very firm acid spine. This is a massive Montrachet with superb power and the balance and mid-palate concentration will permit it to live for decades. A knockout. Allen Meadows, Burghound
DRC Romanee St Vivant – banded	2002	6×75cl	£4,500	2	92
Highly aromatic, indeed almost kaleidoscopic in the sheer breadth of aromas but it’s the spice that is so remarkable though it is now cut with floral and stem hints that add depth. The medium-bodied flavors are quite fine with beautiful detail, indeed they are chiseled, and a drop dead gorgeous velvety texture that is soft in the middle yet quite firm on the exceptionally long finish that still displays the slightest hint of wood. The overall character here is rather discreet and understated and while there is plenty of character, it’s clear that this is built along the lines of elegance and finesse. In this format, this should require most of 20 years to arrive at its peak. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche	2006	12×75cl	£1,400	2	91
Here too there is a mildly macerated nose but with better overall complexity as the layering is impressive and it carries over to the rich, full and very serious flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and focused power that is underpinned by very firm tannins that are bigger and slightly more rustic than those of the Charmes but there is also more buffering material. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Jadot L, Beaune Clos Couchereaux	2002	12×75cl	£300	1	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Jayer-Gilles Exchezeaux du Dessus	2009	12×75cl	£1,800	2	92-95
A ripe, spicy and exceptionally fresh nose trimmed in subtle wood speaks of red currant and cassis before merging into impressively intense and powerful flavors brimming in dry extract that confers a seductive texture on the focused and muscular finish that is balanced and hugely long. Indeed, there is so much sap that this will be approachable in its youth but should age into a spectacular wine. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Meo-Camuzet Vosne Romanee les Brulees	1996	1×75cl	£245	6	92
The bottle in the tasting was not completely clean on the nose so the note that follows is substituted from another recent example. An airy, spicy, lacy and still very fresh nose reveals almost no secondary development slides into linear and direct flavors that display much better fruit/acid/tannin balance than do many ‘96s culminate in a clean, bright and vibrant finish. I like the solid sense of mid-palate concentration and as such, there is no "hole in the middle" the way some of the less concentrated ‘96s carry themselves. A lovely if not truly brilliant effort. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ponsot Clos De La Roche	2007	6×75cl	£750	3	94
A magnificently complex nose offers up a mix of both high and medium-toned aromas of mostly red berries but with a panoply of background nuances including leather, tea, underbrush, spice hints, jerky and smoke, most of which transfer to the textured, intense and precise full-bodied flavors that are, somewhat surprisingly, not quite as dense as those of the Clos St. Denis but actually finer (normally it’s the reverse), all wrapped in a hugely long and explosive finish that completely coats the palate with extract, indeed so much of it that this does not seem all that structured yet it will clearly need at least 15 years to be at its best. Note that there was a hair of backend dryness in evidence that I am attributing to the recent bottling. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Rousseau Chambertin	1995	1×75cl	£520	2	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin	1996	1×75cl	£640	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin	2000	1×75cl	£450	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin	2009	1×75cl	£740	6	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Béze	1996	1×75cl	£640	2	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Béze	1997	1×75cl	£440	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Béze	1998	1×75cl	£355	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Béze	2000	1×75cl	£395	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Béze	2001	1×75cl	£500	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Béze	2003	1×75cl	£480	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Chambertin Clos de Beze	2009	1×75cl	£625	Sold out	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Charmes Chambertin	1996	1×75cl	£190	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Charmes Chambertin	2001	1×75cl	£180	3	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Charmes Chambertin	2003	1×75cl	£109	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Charmes Chambertin	2004	1×75cl	£109	2	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Clos de la Roche	1995	1×75cl	£179	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin	2003	1×75cl	£105	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin	2005	1×75cl	£89	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin C st Jacques	1995	1×75cl	£275	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques	2009	1×75cl	£325	5	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Mazy Chambertin	2001	1×75cl	£150	3	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Mazy Chambertin	2002	1×75cl	£185	3	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Mazy Chambertin	2003	1×75cl	£120	1	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Mazy Chambertin	2004	1×75cl	£105	2	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Mazy Chambertin	2005	1×75cl	£189	3	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin	1995	1×75cl	£195	2	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin	2004	1×75cl	£110	2	–
(Notes not available)
Rousseau Ruchottes Chambertin	2005	1×75cl	£269	2	–
(Notes not available)

Champagne
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Barons de Rothschild Champagne Blanc de Blancs	NV	6×75cl	£220	5	–
(Notes not available)
Champagne Salon	1999	6×75cl	£975	20	–
(Notes not available)
Dom Perignon	1999	6×75cl	£510	4	–
(Notes not available)
Dom Perignon Rose	2002	3×75cl	£585	2	98
Unfortunately there is only one new release from Dom Perignon on the market, but what a wine it is! The 2002 Brut Rose explodes from the glass with endless layers of huge, voluptuous fruit, A big, full-bodied wine, the 2002 is probably the most overly vinous, intense Rose ever made by long-time Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy. Layers of cool, insistent minerality balance the fruit beautifully on the crystalline, vivid finish. The 2002 will be nearly impossible to resist young, but take my word for it; the wine is extremely closed right now. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2032. Antonio Galloni
Dom Perignon Rose	2002	6×75cl	£1,170	3	98
Unfortunately there is only one new release from Dom Perignon on the market, but what a wine it is! The 2002 Brut Rose explodes from the glass with endless layers of huge, voluptuous fruit, A big, full-bodied wine, the 2002 is probably the most overly vinous, intense Rose ever made by long-time Chef de Caves Richard Geoffroy. Layers of cool, insistent minerality balance the fruit beautifully on the crystalline, vivid finish. The 2002 will be nearly impossible to resist young, but take my word for it; the wine is extremely closed right now. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2032.
Louis Roederer Cristal	2005	6×75cl	£580	8	–
(Notes not available)
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs	1998	6×75cl	£190	2	–
the wine served at the G20 in London.
Perrier Jouet Belle Epoque (Gift boxed with 2 glasses)	2002	1×75cl	£93	15	–
(Notes not available)
Piper Heidsieck Rare Cuvee (Gift Boxed)	2002	1×75cl	£108	10	–
(Notes not available)

Italy
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Brunello Casanova di Neri Cerretalto	2006	6×75cl	£725	6	95
The 2006 Brunello di Montalcino Cerretalto emerges from the glass with layers of beautifully delineated dark fruit, flowers, mint, licorice and violets. It possesses terrific richness and nuance in a full-bodied, structured style that captures the essence of this great vintage. Big, powerful tannins provide the backdrop for expressive, super-ripe aromas and flavors. The 2006 needs time to soften, but it is immensely promising. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Giacomo Neri describes 2007 as a year with a warm spring followed by a cold, dry summer. Neri is one of the few growers who considers 2007 cooler than 2006, showing just how diverse Montalcino is. Temperatures were unusually warm during the spring, but then moderated over a coolish summer that saw very little rain. Acidities are a bit higher in 2007 than 2006. All that said, my tastings of the 2007s reveal them to be silkier and more polished young than the firmer 2006s. Needless to say, it will be fascinating to follow the evolution of both vintages over the coming years. Readers who want to learn more about Casanova di Neri should check out my video interview with Giacomo Neri on www.erobertparker.com
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£125	Sold out	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£190	3	93
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Castello di Bossi Corbaia IGT	2008	6×75cl	£189	2	96
The 2008 Corbaia is striking in this vintage. A delicate, graceful bouquet gives the impression of femininity, until layers of fruit hit the palate with relentless energy and focus. The 2008 impresses for its balance and overall sense of harmony. The tannins are still huge at this stage, but I sense that as they melt away the wine’s true pedigree will begin to emerge. This is a great, great showing from Castello di Bossi. Corbaia is 70% Sangiovese and 30% Cabernet Sauvignon aged in new French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. Antonio Galloni
Costanti Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£185	5	95
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2007	12×75cl	£875	4	96
The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is an unusual version of this benchmark wine. In 2007 Conterno decided against bottling his Monfortino. Conterno believes Nebbiolo can handle rain and humidity (hence his decision to make Monfortino in rainy years such as 1987 and 2002), but not drought. The result is a Cascina Francia that is unusually dark, rich and powerful. The floral, herbal notes that are typical in young Cascina Francia have been replaced by deeper notes of tar, smoke and licorice to match the layers of intense dark fruit. The 2007 is powerful and imposing from start to finish. It is going to be a fascinating Barolo to follow over the coming years and decades. Cascina Francia is often accessible for the first year or two after it has been bottled. That has not been my experience with the 2007. It seems already headed for a period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	2004	12×75cl	£5,250	1	100
The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can’t escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2044. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Paganelli	2006	6×75cl	£210	2	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Le Potazzine Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£150	5	93
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Masseto	1995	6×75cl	£2,100	3	–
(Notes not available)
Masseto	1996	6×75cl	£1,950	1	–
(Notes not available)
Ornellaia	2007	6×75cl	£700	8	93
The 2007 Ornellaia is remarkably open and accessible, very much in keeping with the personality of the vintage. Clean, minerally notes frame a core of silky, perfumed dark fruit, mocha, spices, licorice, grilled herbs and leather that impresses for its exceptional length. Tasted next to the 2007 Le Serre Nuove, the 2007 Ornellaia shows more muscle (from the higher percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon), but in terms of pure quality the wines are very close. The 2007 is not a big, massive Ornellaia, but rather a wine built on elegance and finesse, both of which are on full display. The 2007 should drink well with a minimum of cellaring, but whether it will make old bones remains a question mark at this point. The 2007 Ornellaia is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2022.
Ornellaia	2008	6×75cl	£675	10	96
The 2008 Ornellaia has really come together beautifully over the last few months. Up until fairly recently it was a tightly wound, inaccessible wine, but it has begun to blossom quite nicely. The 2008 is a cool, inward Ornellaia graced with exquisite finesse in its dark fruit, mocha, licorice, tar and spices. I especially like the minerality and focus. There is a fabulous balance between the tannins of this structured, powerful vintage, but with gorgeous fleshiness and pliancy that makes the wine very attractive, even at this early stage. It will be fascinating to watch the 2008 develop over the coming years and decades. The 2008 growing season was marked by a rainy, wet spring which resulted in an irregular flowering and naturally low yields. The summer was hot, but temperatures cooled towards the end of the summer, particularly at night, so important for the development of color, aromatics and full phenolic ripeness in varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a big, massively structured Ornellaia built for the cellar. In 2008 the blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The 2008 Ornellaia spent about 20 months in French oak barrels, 70% new. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is another strong set of wines from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. The 2008 Ornellaia is back to its usual high level after a slightly perplexing 2007, while the 2008 Masseto is another in a fine line of vintages for this Tuscan icon. Readers should be on the lookout for a complete vertical of Masseto, back to the inaugural 1986 Il Merlot dell’Ornellaia, which will be posted on www.erobertparker.com in the coming weeks. Needless to say, it was an amazing tasting. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Ornellaia	2009	6×75cl	£570	4	97
The 2009 Ornellaia caresses the palate with layers of seamless, radiant fruit. Sweet red berries, mocha, flowers, new leather and spices are some of the many notes that are layered in this sumptuous, totally beautiful wine. The 2009 stands out for its silky tannins and phenomenal overall balance. This is one of those wines that will probably enjoy a long drinking window. There is little question the ability to blend grape varieties was a huge help in this vintage. In my opinion, that is the main reason Ornellaia is a slightly more complete wine than Masseto in 2009. In one of my blind tastings, the 2009 made a very eloquent case for itself as the wine of the vintage. The blend is 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 21% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot. In 2009 winemaker Axel Heinz used the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc ever in Ornellaia and gave the wine less time in oak, both with the goal of preserving as much freshness as possible. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. The 2009 vintage was not easy at Tenuta dell’Ornellaia because of the scorching hot summer. Readers may want to take a look at my video interview with Axel Heinz for more on the 2009 vintage.
Pian del Orino Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£260	2	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco	2006	6×75cl	£175	2	92
The 2006 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, generous Barbaresco loaded with ripe dark fruit. This is an especially harmonious, refined Barbaresco from the Produttori that is also somewhat unusual for its dark, brooding personality. Licorice, leather and tar linger on the powerful finish. Today the wine is remarkable for its depth and concentration, while the aromatic complexity will develop in bottle. If the regular Barbaresco holds this much power, I can only wonder what the Riservas might have in store. Simply put, this is a marvelous effort. This is Lot 9.125 Anticipated maturity: 2011-2031. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo	2009	12×75cl	£150	2	89
The 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo is made from the coop’s youngest vines and given a relatively short six months in large neutral oak. This mid-weight, juicy Nebbiolo is sleek and refined in its floral red fruit and spices, with good intensity and terrific overall balance. It is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£390	7	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Sassicaia	2005	6×75cl	£740	10	93
The 2005 Sassicaia is another strong effort from Tenuta San Guido. Medium in body, it reveals an understated, delicate expression of smoke, herbs, tobacco and sweet dark fruit. The wine possesses compelling harmony and a gorgeous sense of inner perfume that flows from start to finish. This is an outstanding showing in a very challenging vintage. Sassicaia is mostly Cabernet Sauvignon, with a small amount of Cabernet Franc. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2025. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sassicaia	2007	6×75cl	£720	10	95
The 2007 Sassicaia (Cabernet Sauvignon) explodes onto the palate with masses of rich, opulent fruit that caress the palate with gorgeous length and a seamless beauty that is hard to fully capture. Dark wild cherries, plums, spices, minerals and herbs develop in the glass. This is an especially bold, perhaps slightly uncharacteristic Sassicaia in its extroverted personality, but it is beautiful all the same. The inner perfume and sweetness carries through the long finish, where the sheer weight and glycerol of the fruit leaves a lasting impression. The 2007 is more than a worthy follow-up to the profound 2006. While it may lack that wine’s freshness, structure and potential longevity, the 2007 is immensely appealing today, and should drink beautifully pretty much out of the gate. That said, Sassicaia is always the most restrained of Bolgheri’s heavy hitters. This is a superb effort from Tenuta San Guido. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2037. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sassicaia	2008	12×75cl	£1,300	5	96
The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can afford to wait will be treated to a sublime wine once this settles down in bottle. Muscular, firm tannins frame the exquisite finish in this dark, implosive Sassicaia. The 2008 Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 24 months in French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. Tenuta San Guido is on a roll these days. Over the last few years, the estate has released a number of hugely delicious wines. These new releases are nicely aligned with their respective vintages. The entry-level Le Difese and Guidalberto both capture the essence of a sunny year that made wines well suited to near-term drinking, while the 2008 Sassicaia captures the potential of a powerful vintage characterized by low yields and a late harvest. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sassicaia	2009	6×75cl	£520	4	94
The 2009 Sassicaia is unusually big, rich and opulent. Layers of fruit saturate the palate as the 2009 explodes from the glass with a heady melange of dark berries, plums, menthol, licorice and new leather. This is an especially racy Sassicaia. Readers who enjoy the classicism of Sassicaia are likely to find the 2009 too rich, especially at this early stage. The wine needs at least a few years in bottle to drop some of its baby fat. Despite its huge fruit, the 2009 is also pretty closed down and not anywhere close to being ready to show off its pedigree. Sassicaia is arguably Italy’s most famous wine, so it’s always great when it lives up to its reputation. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2039. If the entry-level wines are any indication, vintage 2010 wasn’t easy at Tenuta San Guido. Among the more affordable wines, readers should focus on vintages 2006-2009, which are more consistent. It will be interesting to see where the 2010 Sassicaia comes out next year. In the meantime, the 2009 Sassicaia is compelling.
Tignanello	2001	6×75cl	£465	10	93
The 2001 Tignanello is an object lesson in how to make Cabernet work with Sangiovese, the two varieties balancing and enhancing one another in admirable symbiosis. (The percentage of Cabernet, in fact, was reduced from the previous 20% to 15% in this vintage, an important sign – I hope – of how the wind is blowing.) A blackish ruby, its perfectly focused plum and cassis fruit, given an additional complexity by notes of sweet herbs and saddle leather, is fully and completely shaped in flavors of impeccable volume, roundness, and depth, caressing and powerful and with an additional power on the close which promises another 15 years of gratifying drinking. Daniel Tomasses, the Wine Advocate
Tignanello	2007	6×75cl	£325	20	95
Antinori’s 2007 Tignanello is wonderfully ripe and seductive in its dark cherries, flowers, spices, tobacco, sage, cedar, mint and minerals. This is as opulent a Tignanello as I have ever tasted but there is just enough acidity and structure from the Sangiovese to keep things from going over the top. The wine’s richness and warmth are such that in a blind tasting I mistook the 2007 Tignanello for a wine from Maremma! The dense, muscular fruit follows through to an impeccable finish with no hard edges and impossibly fine, silky tannins. Simply put, the 2007 is a magnificent Tignanello. The 2007 Tignanello is 80% Sangiovese aged in 300-liter French oak barrels (1/3 new), 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, both aged in 100% new 225-liter French oak barriques. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2027. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Tignanello	2008	6×75cl	£285	25	94
The 2008 Tignanello is unquestionably one of the wines of the vintage. The 2008 isn’t a huge or obvious Tignanello, rather it is a wine that impresses for its sublime elegance and precision. Understated layers of fruit caress the palate like cashmere in this impeccable, soft wine. There is not a hard edge to be found. Black cherries, tobacco, smoke and licorice are some of the notes that come through on the finish. The flavor profile is decidedly on the dark side, but the wine’s structure is medium in body and intensity. In 2008 the Tignanello has more energy, focus and length than the Solaia. It is a fabulous achievement! The 2008 Tignanello is 80% Sangiovese aged in 300-liter French oak barrels (1/3rd new), 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc, both aged in 100% new 225-liter French oak barriques. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. Antinori seems to do everything well these days, from churning out millions of bottles of supermarket wines all the way to turning out superb versions of their many flagship bottlings. This is another impressive set of new releases with a number of highlights. Over the years oenologist Renzo Cotarella has moved away from the super-late harvests of the late 1990s/early 2000s in favor of picking slightly earlier, a decision that has paid off handsomely, especially over the last few years. Antinori’s 2008s, from a vintage that is quite inconsistent across the board, are superb. I remember spending a few days near the estate’s Tignanello and Badia a Passignano estates in mid-August 2008. The days were very hot, but the nights were so cool that a sweater or light jacket was a necessity
Tignanello	2009	6×75cl	£240	6	94
The 2009 Tignanello is quite beautiful. Cedar, graphite, sweet herbs, licorice and leather add complexity to a core of highly expressive red fruits. The 2009 impresses for its energy, drive and focus. Today, the 2009 comes across as slightly understated relative to many recent vintages, especially 2007 and 2008. There is a silkiness and polish that is reminiscent of the 2004. Tignanello is 75% Sangiovese, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc from vineyards in San Casciano Val di Pesa, one of the most evocative hillsides in all of Italy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Longtime winemaker Renzo Cotarella has done a fabulous job with the flagships Tignanello and Solaia in 2009. In my blind tastings the pedigree of those two wines in particular came through with notable eloquence. The 2010 Tignanello and Solaia are both thrilling at this stage. They could very well turn out even better than the 2009s. Readers may want to look at my short video on the 2010s from Antinori on our website.
Valdicava Brunello Madonna Del Piano	2004	6×75cl	£475	3	96
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano continues to develop very positively. This huge, concentrated Madonna del Piano dazzles for the richness of its fruit and the delineation of its aromas. The clean, vibrant finish suggests many years of cellaring potential. The Valdicava Brunellos are often misunderstood when young because they possess so much richness, but with time in bottle the wines turn more delicate and complete. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Vincenzo Abbruzzese is one of the most outspoken, passionate growers in Montalcino. His beautifully tended vineyards yield some of the richest wines in the region; and that’s where most of the focus is – on the vineyards. The winery itself is unremarkable and is equipped with just the bare essentials. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral oak; what comes through is Abbruzzese’s commitment to low yields, sustainable farming and non-interventionalist winemaking. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2008 Rosso in bottle, but several samples tasted from tank and cask seemed quite promising. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate

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Bodegas Magana Baron de Magana	2007	12×75cl	£100	3	94
A sensational offering from Navarra, the 2007 Baron de Magana is an intriguing blend of 35% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Tempranillo and 10% Syrah aged 14 months in primarily new oak. As its composition suggests, it is somewhat Bordeaux like with lots of black currant and cherry fruit intermixed with notions of forest, underbrush and barrique. Full-bodied, dense, rich and intense, this impressive red can be drunk over the next 7-8 years. Robert Parker
Chateau des Karantes Bergerie Rouge	2011	12×75cl	£70	10	–
“Voluptuous, silky-textured style with terrific aromatics of ripe dark fruit, citrus, liquorice and jasmine. Perfumed notes follow to a spicy, leathery palate of blackcurrant and pencil lead, with a hint of fresh mint, eucalyptus and coffee.” 5 Stars, Regional Trophy, Decanter World Wine Awards 2012
Chateau des Karantes Blanc	2011	12×75cl	£89	5	–
While the 2010 took a “Commended” award from Decanter, we much prefer the 2011, a silver medal winner at the Concours des Grands Vin de Macon. Beautifully light gold in colour, the nose is fantastically fresh, slightly floral, with aromas of white fruit – stone fruit on the palate, with apricot, peach, and an excellent minerality throughout. The finish is long, zesty and brilliantly balanced. 50% Bourboulenc, 17% Roussanne, 17% Vermentino, 16% Grenache Blanc. Ditton Wine Traders
Chateau des Karantes Diamant	2007	12×75cl	£250	3	–
The top wine of the estate from an excellent vintage for the region, and even at 5 years of age, still an infant. Dark ruby cherry red, very light rim, dark in the middle. Cherry, liquorice and marzipan dominate the nose, with hints of cinnamon, chocolate and roasted almond – slight spice and white pepper. The cherry and dark fruit are gorgeous on the palate, with underlying spice and herb showing through towards the finish. This is a big mouth filling wine that could possibly do with a couple more years in bottle – the tannins are light, but the acidity is there. An elegant finish that lasts; this is a very promising wine that will reward another 2 years in bottle.
Delas, Hermitage Rouge Tourettes	2009	6×75cl	£320	1	98
The magnificent 2009 Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes boasts a black/purple color as well as a wonderful nose of creosote, incense, charcoal, blackberry jam, acacia flowers, white chocolate and a hint of espresso roast. Full-bodied and unctuously textured with low acidity and magnificent density, this 2009 can be drunk in 5-6 years or cellared for 30-50 years. Another great negociant with significant vineyard holdings, and at the top of their game, is undeniably Delas, owned by the Louis Roederer/Deutz Champagne firm. Since they acquired Delas well over a decade ago, this firm has been under the management of Burgundian Jacques Grange, who has done an outstanding job producing a sensational array of wines. The 2009s appear to be their finest overall performances to date, and the 2010s are noteworthy successors in a more restrained, mineral dominated, crisper style. Jacques Grange did a fabulous job with his Cote Roties in both 2009 and 2010, the latter being a somewhat more challenging vintage in this appellation. The Hermitage Domaine des Tourettes (until the 2009 vintage, this offering was known as the Hermitage Marquise de la Tourette) is sensational in both 2010 and 2009. Three thousand cases of this cuvee are produced, and the wine is aged in French oak, 50% new.
Finca La Emperatriz Reserva (Rioja)	2007	12×75cl	£130	10	93
The 2007 Finca La Emperatriz Reserva comes from 60-year-old bush vines. It has a melted, sensual nose of macerated red cherries, a hint of sloes and eau-de-vie. There is just the right amount of volatility to lend it lift without diminishing the freshness. The palate is rounded and sumptuous in the mouth with cranberry, wild strawberry and red currant mingling with Asian spices and tobacco. The finish is very composed, with impressive weight and length, but does not outstay its welcome. This is a very fine Reserva that should age well over the next decade. Drink now-2022. Neal Martin
Guigal La Landonne – duty paid	2009	12×75cl	£4,150	3	100
The 2009 Cote Rotie La Landonne is a killer wine. An extravagant bouquet of black truffles, roasted meats, licorice, ground pepper, blackberries, scorched earth and camphor soars from this muscular, dense, over-the-top, serious, masculine La Landonne. Built like Arnold Schwarzenegger was two decades ago, this enormously concentrated bodybuilder of a wine should hit its prime in a decade, and last 40-50 years. This is no trivial boast as the debut vintage of La Landonne, the 1978, is just reaching full maturity at age 34.
Guigal La Mouline	1999	6×75cl	£3,250	1	100
The most developed, evolved and forward of the three La-La’s in this vintage is the dense purple-colored 1999 Cote Rotie La Mouline. An extraordinary effort, it offers a smorgasbord of aromas and flavors. Scents of violets, raspberries, blackberries, roasted espresso, balsamic vinegar, and pepper tumble out of the glass. It is unctuously-textured, full-bodied, and fabulously concentrated with a tremendous purity and seamlessness that must be tasted to be believed. A wine of singular greatness, it can be drunk young, but should be at its finest between 2005-2020. What is so remarkable about this cuvee is its tremendous layers of flavor, awesome texture, and perfect balance. This is an astonishing offering from one of the world’s greatest winemakers.
Guigal La Mouline	2003	6×75cl	£2,700	1	100
The 2003 Cote Rotie La Mouline is by far the most delicate and elegant wine (11% Viognier is co-fermented with 89% Syrah). but the enormous aromatics of spring flowers intermixed with creme de cassis, black raspberry, mocha, caramel, and cola, and enormous full-bodied opulence and striking velvety, seamless texture make for one of the most memorable wines anyone could every drink. This wine should age effortlessly for 25-30 or more years.
Guigal La Mouline	2005	6×75cl	£2,500	1	100
Similar to the powerful 1988, the inky/purple-colored, dense 2005 Cote Rotie La Mouline offers a stunning perfume of espresso roast, licorice, pepper, blackberries, and black cherries intermixed with hints of chocolate and spring flowers. Powerful, super-concentrated, and ruggedly-constructed with a boatload of tannin, this is a wine to forget for 4-5 years, and drink over the following 25-30. It is the densest, most tannic vintage of La Mouline since 1988. While the entire world of wine knows how profound Guigal’s red wines are, they may not know that he continues to demonstrate a complete mastery of white wine varietals, from his lowly Cotes du Rhone blend of Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier, Clairette, and Bourboulenc, to his seriously-endowed dry whites from the northern Rhone. Over recent years, Guigal has been attempting to produce an interesting, fairly-priced, delicious Crozes-Hermitage. (The overall level of quality from this complex appellation is less than exciting.) Guigal is becoming one of the most important producers of high quality St.-Joseph. He fashions three cuvees, a general appellation offering, his St.-Joseph Lieu-Dit St.-Joseph, and the limited production Vignes de l’Hospice, which comes from high elevation, steeply terraced vines planted at the top of the small mountain that dominates the town of Tournon. Along with Chapoutier’s St.-Joseph Les Granits, Guigal’s Vignes de l’Hospice is one of the most profound wines of the appellation. It comes from a 5.5 acre parcel at the top of the small mountain that dominates the town of Tournon. The soils are decomposed granite with essentially the same soil base as the great vineyard of Hermitage across the river known as Les Bessards. One can argue that by producing the Cote Rotie Chateau d’Ampuis, Guigal is pulling some high quality material away from his Brune et Blonde, and it seems to me that only in the greatest vintages is the Brune et Blonde as consistent as it was in the past. That said, the Chateau d’Ampuis is superb. This cuvee comes from some of the top vineyards planted on the steep hillsides of Cote Rotie, such as Le Clos, La Grande Plantee, La Pommiere, Pavillon Rouge, Le Moulin, and Guigal’s most recent purchase, La Viria, which I suspect will become another single vineyard Cote Rotie in a few years. There are around 2,000 cases of this cuvee, and it is aged 30 or more months in 100% new oak. Guigal’s single vineyard Cote Roties are other-worldly in nearly every vintage. I have given these offerings more perfect scores than any other wines in the world. They represent three completely different expressions of Cote Rotie, and are made in limited quantities. There are about 1,000 cases of La Landonne, and 500-600 cases each of La Mouline and La Turque. La Mouline, which includes the highest percentage of co-fermented Viognier (11%), is always the more delicate, voluptuous wine with the most complex aromatics. La Turque is a denser, more gamy, meaty effort with approximately 7% Viognier co-fermented. It comes across as a completely different style of wine. La Landonne, which is grown in pure schist on the steep hillsides of the northern-most sector of the appellation, is 100% Syrah. It is the densest, most concentrated, masculine, and tannic of these three cuvees. Regardless of the vintage’s style and personality, La Mouline will always be the most flattering to drink young, followed by La Turque, and lastly by La Landonne. All three of these offerings are aged for a remarkably long, 42 month period in 100% new oak barrels (but they are never oaky), and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. They typically have 30+ years of longevity in top vintages. In short, they are singular expressions of greatness from spectacular vineyards that are brought to fruition with non-interventionalistic, creative yet distinctive winemaking. A re-visit to the 2004s has proven that Guigal’s long barrel aging can produce wines that are often better out of bottle than they were early in cask, a common occurrence at Guigal.
Guigal La Mouline – duty paid	2009	12×75cl	£4,150	3	100
The 2009 Cote Rotie La Mouline possesses off-the-charts richness. Like all the vintages, it comes from the Cote Blonde and is co-fermented with 11% Viognier. Its 13.5% alcohol is one of the highest in all the La Moulines made to date, which shows you that these wines are never that powerful. Extraordinary layers of concentration offer up notes of roasted coffee, sweet black cherries, black raspberries, blackberries, licorice and hints of spring flowers as well as lychee nuts (no doubt attributable to the floral/honeysuckle character of Viognier). With its full-bodied, extravagant richness, the 2009 La Mouline should be relatively approachable in 1-2 years, and last for two decades or more.
Guigal La Turque	2007	3×75cl	£600	4	97
The 2007 Cote Rotie La Turque’s inky/blue/purple color is followed by aromas of asphalt, charcoal, graphite, barbecue smoke, roasted meats/aged beef, blackberries, cassis and violets. With huge body, massive concentration, silky tannins, sweet glycerin and a layered, multidimensional mouthfeel, it can be drunk now or cellared for 25 years.
Guigal La Turque – duty paid	2009	12×75cl	£4,150	3	100
Another perfect wine is the 2009 Cote Rotie La Turque. It possesses a slightly denser purple color than the opaque Cote Rotie La Mouline as well as notes of Asian spices, roasted meats, bouquet garni, spring flowers, camphor and truffles. It is a different expression of Syrah as this comes from the more iron-laden soils of the Cote Brune. Although never as aromatic, precocious or enjoyable as La Mouline is in its youth, La Turque is, nevertheless, a remarkably concentrated, profound wine that is built like a skyscraper. It possesses a level of intensity and richness that must be tasted to be believed. Despite the flamboyant personality of the vintage, the 2009 will require 4-5 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years.
J Laurens Moulin, Blanquette de Limoux	NV	12×75cl	£90	10	17
Pretty nose with a little bit of development on it. Tight bead. Bone dry. I suppose I like it because it is not so obviously Mauzac as, say, the Delmas. Tut, tut. Very, very clean though. Jancis Robinson
Jean Louis Chave Hermitage Rouge	2009	12×75cl	£3,850	2	100
The greatest wines Chave has produced since 2003 are the two cuvees of 2009 Hermitage. The 2009 Hermitage exhibits a black/purple color along with a sumptuous nose of roasted meats, ground pepper, black currants, blackberry jam, and subtle smoke and licorice. The extraordinary bouquet is followed by a wine of extravagant intensity as well as tremendous focus and precision. While not as powerful as the blockbuster 2003, the amazing 2009 may turn out to be a modern day version of their magnificent 1990 (which is drinking incredibly well at present). Anyone who loves Hermitage and has a cold cellar should be lining up to get a few bottles of this beauty. Adding to their acreage in St.-Joseph, the Chaves purchased the famous Clos Florentin Vineyard a few years ago. I suspect they will make a single vineyard wine from this site in the future.

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list dated 21 May 2013

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