Fine wines | Ditton Wine Traders

list dated 17 May 2012

Wine	Vintage	Case size	Price/case	Cases	Parker Score
click a heading to sort

Bordeaux
					hover or click for more
Doisy Daene Cuvée l’ExtravagantEP	2011	1×38cl	£125	7	95-97
The 2011 L’Extravagant does not have an explosive nose like other vintages, but one that unfurls in the glass with gorgeous ripe kiwi fruit, dried honey and quince. The palate possesses a ravishing entry with vibrant white peach and apricot notes; a silver thread of acidity that cuts through its viscous texture like a knife through (very sweet) butter. The tongue positively tingles with pleasure after this elixir has been ejected. This is nothing short of spectacular even if personally, I think the regular Doisy-Daene is just as worthy. Drink 2014-2040. Neal Martin
Duhart Milon, Imperial	1982	1×600cl	£1,000	1	94
This blockbuster was a sleeper of the vintage long before the Rothschilds invested so heavily in modernizing this estate as well as began making a stricter selection. Close to full maturity, the 1982 Duhart Milon exhibits classic notes of creme de cassis, cedar, and flowers, medium to full body, a high level of glycerin, and a lusciousness and fleshiness that are very much in keeping with the vintage. There is a slight amount of pink at the rim, but this beauty should keep for another ten years. Release price: ($90.00/case)
Carruades de Lafite F	2006	3×300cl	£3,100	1	–
(Notes not available)
LafleurEP	2011	6×75cl	£2,650	2	92-94
This tiny jewel of a property has produced a beautifully rich 2011 Lafleur from a blend of 53% Cabernet Franc and 47% Merlot. The Merlot was picked between August 31 and September 12, and the Cabernet Franc between September 22-23. The 2011 reveals a floral-scented bouquet with notions of kirsch, liquorice and black raspberries. It is medium to full-bodied with terrific fruit purity, good minerality and slightly more acidity and freshness than are found in such ripe vintages as 2009 and 2010. At present, the Guinandeau family, the owners, are using between 50-60% new oak in an attempt to emphasize their great terroir and the extraordinary fruit quality they achieve from both the old vine Cabernet Franc and Merlot. This cuvee possesses some serious tannin and will undoubtedly need 5-6 years of cellaring after its release, but it should be one of the longer-lived wines of the vintage, lasting 25+ years.
Beychevelle F	2008	6×75cl	£300	10	89
This ageworthy, elegant, well-made Beychevelle displays copious red and black cherry fruit notes intertwined with dusty, loamy soil and oak undertones, decent acidity, moderate tannin and impressive intensity as well as length. Give it 1-3 years of cellaring and enjoy it over the next 15-18 years.
Mouton Rothschild F	2003	6×75cl	£1,600	2	95
Backward, powerful, and extremely tannic, the dense purple-colored 2003 Mouton-Rothschild, a blend of 76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot, fashioned from yields of 28 hectoliters per hectare, with a finished alcohol of 12.9%, improves dramatically with aeration. With full-bodied, meaty, powerful, dry flavors as well as a huge finish, this high class wine should be at its finest between 2012-2040+. During its sojourn in barrel, it reminded me of a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1986 Moutons, but since bottling, it appears different, and even more tannic than those two vintages. I still believe the finest recent Mouton-Rothschild is the 2000.
Le Petit Mouton F	2009	6×75cl	£500	11	90
The 2009 vintage is administrator Philippe Dalhuin-s finest effort to date. I don-t think I have ever enjoyed a Le Petit Mouton (which represents 27% of their total production) more than his 2009, which is a blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot and 15% Cabernet Franc. Dense ruby/purple, with plenty of ripeness, it displays the famous Mouton creme de cassis intermixed with spring flowers, licorice and some background forest floor notes. This beauty can be drunk now or cellared for 15 or more years.
Ausone	2008	6×75cl	£3,000	1	98
Possibly the “wine of the vintage,” the 2008 boasts an inky/blue/purple color as well as a glorious perfume of spring flowers, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, camphor, truffles and crushed rocks. With great fruit on the attack and mid-palate, a medium to full-bodied, multidimensional mouthfeel and a skyscraper-like finish, this prodigious effort over-delivers, even for this phenomenal terroir. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following 40-50 years.
Lafite Rothschild F	2010	6×75cl	£4,500	2	98-100
RP: 98-100 2010 Lafite Rothschild: This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years. JR: 18.5 Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy. Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished – so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish. Decanter: 20 Fabulous nose of wild violets, wonderful lissom texture backed by aristocratic firmness, a totally captivating wine for the long term. Drink 2020-50. Neil Martin: 95-97 The 2010 is a blend of 87.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12.8% Merlot, cropped between 24th September until 13th October, delivering 13.48% alcohol at pH 3.82. Whereas the 2009 Lafite was an immediate “wow”, this is far more introspective and broody, particular coming directly after Latour. Deep, dusky dark berried fruit, a touch of cedar and pencil box. Good definition but not as expressive or as vigorous as I was expected. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fine but structure tannins, masculine in style, understated compared to Latour. I take a little sip (pourquoi pas?) and there is another annexe of dark cherry and a touch of boysenberry. Hints of cedar and spice towards the dry, tannic finish. This is a Lafite that will grow during its élevage. Drink 2020- Tasted March 2011.
Lafite Rothschild F EP	2011	6×75cl	£2,750	3	90-93
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot (harvested between September 3-21), the 2011 Lafite Rothschild came in at 12.6% natural alcohol (considerably lower than in 2010 and 2009). Exhibiting a deep ruby/purple color, lots of crushed rock, red and black currant, forest floor and underbrush characteristics, moderate tannin and medium body, it is built somewhat along the lines of the 1999 and 2001. It should be a 20- to 25-year wine, but it is not at the level of the 2008, 2009 and 2010. Fresh acids give the wine a somewhat more clipped feeling than most great Lafites have exhibited. Nevertheless, there is a lot of freshness and vibrancy to this vintage.
Le Petit Mouton F	2010	6×75cl	£550	8	90-93
RP: 90-93 2010 Le Petit Mouton: A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot, this may be finest second wine Mouton Rothschild has yet produced. The selection process is unquestionably severe, and the 2010 Le Petit Mouton is even higher in alcohol than the grand vin. Abundant cassis, supple tannins and more near-term pleasure can be found in this full-bodied, rich, impressively endowed effort. Enjoy it over the next 10-15 years.
S de Suduiraut, Bordeaux dry white	2007	6×75cl	£195	20	–
(Notes not available)
Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse	2010	6×75cl	£1,100	4	96-100
RP: 96-100 2010: Since the wunderkind team of Nicolas Thienpont and Stephane Derenoncourt assumed responsibility for this extraordinary vineyard planted on the clay and limestone southern slopes of St.-Emilion, quality has soared. The 2009 (rated 96-98+) was the greatest vintage since the estate’s prodigious 1990 and the 2010 looks to be its equal. Composed of 73% Merlot, 23% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon made from tiny yields of 21 hectoliters per hectare, the 2010 achieved a remarkably high 15% natural alcohol. However, the high alcohol is completely hidden by the wine’s freshness, high acids and modest pH. A remarkable nose of blueberries, blackberries, crushed chalk, acacia flowers, licorice and truffles is accompanied by an unbelievable minerality on the palate, full-bodied power, amazing texture, a multidimensional personality and a 50+ second finish. One of the most profound wines of the vintage, this 2010 should drink well for 30-35 years or more. JR: 16.5 Derenoncourt from 2009. Very dark crimson. Much lighter than the Villemaurine 2010 I have just tasted. Easy with much less of the exaggerated framework that characterises most of Stéphane Derenoncourt’s 2010s though it is a relatively tough wine. Neil Martin: 91-93 This has a very refined, composed, well-defined bouquet with pure cassis and raspberry fruit, nice mineralité underneath that should become exposed by age. The palate is very fleshy and oaky on the entry but there is decent freshness here. Slips down the throat with ease with notes of crushed strawberry, redcurrant and a touch of Morello, very harmonious towards the finish if lacking a little backbone, but very fine nonetheless. Tasted April 2011.
Haut Brion F	2008	6×75cl	£1,825	1	96
This is profound! 2008 Haut-Brion: The extraordinary 2008 Haut-Brion is a candidate for -wine of the vintage.- Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 41% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc, it reveals more evolution and complexity in its large-scaled perfume. The dense purple color is followed by a sweet nose of creosote, asphalt, blueberries, black currants and jammy raspberries, sweet tannins, a savory, fleshy mouthfeel and a stunning finish. This incredibly pure, noble wine was produced from one of the estate-s smallest crops (only 7,000 cases produced versus the usual 12,000 cases). It should drink well for three decades or more.
Montrose F	2008	6×75cl	£380	10	95
One of the superstars of the vintage, this classic Montrose is not as showy or opulent as the 2010, 2009 or 2003, but it offers a dense purple color followed by gorgeously sweet black raspberry and black currant fruit intermixed with loamy, earthy, forest floor notes, a floral component and a long, full-bodied finish. The 2008 was fashioned from yields of 44 hectoliters per hectare which is slightly less than the 2010’s 45 hectoliters per hectare. Forget it for 5-8 years and drink it over the following 20+.
Ausone	2005	6×75cl	£7,200	1	100
A tiny production of just over 1,300 cases will make the 2005 Ausone impossible to find, but proprietor Alain Vauthier continues to exhibit the Midas touch with his perfectionist efforts at this estate. This brilliant, blue/black-hued offering reveals an extraordinarily youthful, but promising nose of incense, blueberries, blackberries, currants, licorice, and crushed rocks. This intense 2005 boasts powerful, super-layered, multidimensional flavors with tremendous extraction, yet they come across as incredibly sublime, even delicate for such a stunningly concentrated, full-bodied effort. A masterpiece of concentration and balance, it will no doubt be drinking well a century from now. Anticipated maturity: 2030-2080+.
L’Evangile	2009	6×75cl	£1,350	1	100
An astonishing effort from the Rothschild family, the 2009 l’Evangile may be the reference point offering from this estate for decades to come. A blend of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc aged in 100% new oak, with 15% natural alcohol, it exhibits a sumptuous bouquet of caramels, black raspberry liqueur, blackberries, violets, graphite and truffles. Thick, viscous flavors are reminiscent of such super-ripe vintages as 1982, 1959, 1949 and 1947. The striking aromatics, massive, full-bodied mouthfeel and multilayered palate that resembles a skyscraper in the mouth offer an abject lesson in great winemaking, extraordinary terroir, and the ability to combine power with precision, elegance and freshness. This is unquestionably a huge wine, but it also possesses mindboggling complexity and finesse. Because of its sheer extract and velvety personality, it will be drinkable in 4-5 years, and will keep for four decades or more where well-stored. The most profound L’Evangile ever made?
Pontet Canet F	2008	6×75cl	£395	20	96
A candidate for the “wine of the vintage,” Pontet Canet’s 2008 boasts an opaque purple color as well as copious aromas of sweet blueberries, blackberries and black currant fruit intertwined with lead pencil shavings, subtle barbecue smoke and a hint of forest floor. Full-bodied, with fabulous richness, texture and tremendous freshness, this first-growth-like effort is more developed than the uber-powerful 2010. Give it 5-8 years of cellaring and drink it over the following three decades. Bravo!
Vieux Chateau Certan	2000	6×75cl	£725	1	95
A gorgeous wine of grace, elegance, and power, this youthful 2000 will benefit from another five years of cellaring. It appears to have 25 more years of life ahead of it. A deep ruby/purple color is just beginning to lighten at the edges. The bouquet offers up scents of cedar wood, melted licorice, black currants, blackberries, caramel, and mocha. Medium to full-bodied, elegant, and pure with low acidity as well as formidable tannins in the long finish, the 2000 should rival vintages such as 2005, 2006, and 2009.
Leoville Lascases F	2008	6×75cl	£565	4	93
A classic style of Las Cases that is somewhat masculine for the vintage, tannic and backward, and less formidably concentrated than the 2009 or 2010, the 2008 needs 7-8 years of cellaring. Dense purple, the aromatics are closed, but with coaxing and aggressive swirling, notes of crushed rock, black currants and some forest floor notes emerge. Impressively built, medium to full-bodied, layered and stunningly concentrated, this is a sleeper vintage for Leoville Las Cases that should improve considerably, given how closed it was the day I tasted it. It is another 30+ year wine from proprietor Jean-Hubert Delon.
La Mission Haut Brion F	1989	6×75cl	£4,100	2	100
This is a profound bottle of La Mission-Haut-Brion with a deep ruby/purple color and a gorgeous nose of espresso, tar, tobacco, mineral, and blackberry, blueberry, and black currant fruit. The extraordinary smorgasbord of aromatics is matched by a full-bodied, viscous, opulent style of wine with sweet, jammy fruit yet enough tannin and acidity to provide uplift and definition. Still somewhat of an adolescent in terms of its development, and far less evolved than its gorgeous sibling, the 1990, this is a prodigious, multi-dimensional wine that is a modern-day legend. Anticipated maturity: 2004-2025. Last tasted, 1/03.
Lafleur	2008	6×75cl	£2,250	2	94
The 2008 Lafleur is a wine to buy from this very under-rated vintage. A blend of 54% Cabernet Franc and 46% Merlot, the wine has a similar color to the 2010, only less purple. With a beautiful nose of boysenberry , black cherry, damp earth and truffle-like notes in what is clearly a classic style, it is built in a masculine, full-bodied manner along the lines of the 1988 or perhaps 1996. This wine needs a good 5-7 years of cellaring and should keep 30 years. It is certainly one of the most backward 2008s from Pomerol.
Gruaud Larose – non OWC	1982	6×150cl	£2,800	1	98
A massive wine that is clearly of first-growth quality in this vintage, the 1982 Gruaud Larose remains a youngster. A broodingly dense, thick, unctuously textured, inky/plum/garnet/purple color offers up scents of beef blood, steak tartare, cassis, herbs, tobacco, and underbrush. One of the most concentrated wines of the vintage (as well as one of the most concentrated Bordeaux’s I have ever tasted), it is a huge, full-bodied, weighty, rich wine whose tannins are getting silkier and silkier. It appears set for another 30-40 years of life. This behemoth is a singularly profound example of Gruaud Larose that continues to justify its legendary status. Anticipated maturity: now-2050. Release price: ($140.00/case)
Angelus, Mags	2003	6×150cl	£1,500	1	93
Kudos to proprietor Hubert Bouard, who has been making brilliant wines at this estate since the mid- to late-1980s. A blend of 58% Cabernet Franc and 42% Merlot, the beautiful 2003 (14% alcohol; 6,500 cases produced) is somewhat tightly knit, but it reveals a perfumed nose of rose petals, blackberries, menthol, and cedar. This broad, sweet 2003’s supple attack is followed by a tannic mid-section. The wine does not appear to be as dense or structured as the 2004. Given the high percentage of Cabernet Franc, it is likely to put on considerable weight in the bottle. This beauty is slightly different not only because of the torrid vintage conditions, but also because it incorporates the highest percentage of Cabernet Franc ever utilized at Angelus. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2023.
Leoville Lascases F	1990	12×75cl	£2,750	1	96
As one might expect, this is a brilliant wine, but it remains shockingly young, even for the fast evolving 1990s. Its deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by a classic, nearly restrained set of aromatics that includes notions of sweet black cherries, black currants, lead pencil, and wet stones. In the mouth, it is full-bodied, and while technically low in acidity, there is a freshness, delineation, and classicism in this full-throttle, rich, concentrated, impeccable 1990. While still youthful, it is easy to appreciate despite its substantial tannins. It is not quite as backward as the 1990 Lafite Rothschild or 1990 Latour. Anticipated maturity: now-2035. Release price: ($500.00/case)
La Mission Haut Brion F	2009	12×75cl	£5,700	5	100
A candidate for the wine of the vintage, the 2009 La Mission-Haut-Brion stood out as one of the most exceptional young wines I had ever tasted from barrel, and its greatness has been confirmed in the bottle. A remarkable effort from the Dillon family, this is another large-scaled La Mission that tips the scales at 15% alcohol. A blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (47% of each) and the rest Cabernet Franc, it exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a magnificent bouquet of truffles, scorched earth, blackberry and blueberry liqueur, subtle smoke and spring flowers. The wine’s remarkable concentration offers up an unctuous/viscous texture, a skyscraper-like mouthfeel, sweet, sumptuous, nearly over-the-top flavors and massive density. Perhaps a once-in-a-lifetime La Mission-Haut-Brion, the 2009 will take its place alongside the many great wines made here since the early 1920s. The good news is that there are nearly 6,000 cases of the 2009. It should last for 50-75+ years. Given the wine’s unctuosity and sweetness of the tannin, I would have no problem drinking it in about 5-6 years.
Raymond Lafon	2009	12×75cl	£245	4	92-94
There is a little SO2 on the nose at the moment. The palate is well balanced with a citric entry, touches of apricot and lime, tightly coiled towards the finish with the acidity slicing through the viscous honey fruit with a touch of Tropicana. Again, this is a very focused, tensile Sauternes with beguiling clarity.
Pichon Lalande F	2000	12×75cl	£1,850	1	96
Sitting next to my former colleague, Pierre Antoine Rovani, at one of the tastings, he commented that he didn’t like the striking green note in the aromatics of this wine, which I didn’t detect at all, and a subsequent bottle at another tasting did not reveal it either. I do think there is a hint of bay leaf and a meatiness to it. In short, I find this to be a spectacular Pichon Lalande. Dense purple in color, with loads of coffee, mocha, creme de cassis, and chocolate notes, this is a somewhat unusual blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot, and a whooping 10% Petit Verdot, with a little bit of Cabernet Franc. The Petit Verdot certainly gives the wine more of a tapenade, floral note, which I think can be interpreted by some as herbal. This is a rich, opulent, stunning Pichon Lalande that is beginning to drink beautifully, yet should continue to improve for at least another 10-15 years and last 30 or more years.
Margaux F	1995	12×75cl	£3,900	1	95
Medium garnet colour going brick at the rim. The nose is beginning to showing signs of evolution with aromas of leather, game, warm cassis, dried plums and cloves. Medium to high acidity, medium body and medium to firm, fine tannins support earthy, blackcurrant-preserve fruit. Long finish. Drink now – 2030+. Tasted February 2009.
Pichon Baron F	2005	12×75cl	£1,025	6	94
As usual, this superb Pauillac possesses an inky/blue/black color in addition to a big, sweet nose of graphite, charcoal, burning embers, black currant liqueur, and toasty vanillin from new oak casks. Full-bodied with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, the 2005 Pichon Baron is more backward than the blockbuster 2003 or prodigious 2000. Nevertheless, it is a superb effort whose power, length, and tannic structure suggest it should be at its peak between 2015-2035.
Leoville Poyferre	2008	12×75cl	£570	1	94
One of the finest over-achieving efforts in this vintage as well as a “best buy” for a top-flight St.-Julien, this 2008 is an irresistible success. It reveals an opaque ruby/purple color, lots of unctuosity and a boatload of sweet cassis and black cherry fruit intertwined with notions of licorice, smoke and oak. Full-bodied, remarkably concentrated and stunningly pure and textured, this sensational wine is already drinking well, and will be even better with 2-3 years of cellaring. It should last for 20-25 years. Bravo!
Clerc Milon	2006	12×75cl	£400	1	91
From the same stable as Mouton Rothschild and d’Armailhac, Clerc Milon, despite the relatively high percentage of Merlot (44%) combined with 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the balance Cabernet Franc, is dense, rich, tannic, and backward. Surprisingly muscular for this offering, which often exhibits a more precocious side, it offers up abundant amounts of creme brulee, chocolate, cedar, and black currants. This full-bodied Pauillac displays gorgeous purity and depth as well as moderately high tannins in the finish. Because of its freshness, structure, and density, it is reminiscent of a 1996 Medoc. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2028.
Chapelle Mission	2009	12×75cl	£650	5	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Angelus	2000	12×75cl	£2,700	1	97
What can you say about Hubert de Bouard and Angelus? Each year they seem to turn out one great wine after another, and the 2000 showed its merit in two different tastings. A wine of great intensity, bluish/black, with a big, sweet kiss of graphite, crushed rocks, blueberry, spring floral garden and blackberry liqueur, unctuously textured as well as pure, dense, and stunningly rich, this full-bodied wine can be drunk now or cellared for another 25-30 years.
Montrose F	2005	12×75cl	£1,050	3	95
The 2005 Montrose is an exceptionally tannic, broodingly backward offering displaying a dense ruby/purple color along with a provocative perfume of crushed rocks, flowers, cassis, black raspberries, and blueberries. It continues to add weight and richness, good traits considering the substantial, forbiddingly high tannin levels and zesty acidity. If you are over the age of fifty, this backward, powerful wine will probably be more enjoyable to your descendants. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2040+
Margaux F	2009	12×75cl	£7,800	1	99
A brilliant offering from the Mentzelopoulos family, once again their gifted manager, Paul Pontallier, has produced an uncommonly concentrated, powerful 2009 Chateau Margaux made from 87% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest primarily Merlot with small amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. As with most Medocs, the alcohol here is actually lower (a modest 13.3%) than most of its siblings-. Abundant blueberry, cassis and acacia flower as well as hints of charcoal and forest floor aromas that are almost Burgundian in their complexity are followed by a wine displaying sweet, well-integrated tannins as well as a certain ethereal lightness despite the wine-s overall size. Rich, round, generous and unusually approachable for such a young Margaux, this 2009 should drink well for 30-35+ years.
Montrose F	2009	12×75cl	£2,400	1	100
1989 and 1990 deja vu all over again? If you think the 2003 Montrose (which merited 100 points) was powerful (13.2% alcohol), keep in mind that the 2009 Montrose came in at 13.7% alcohol. There is no sense of hotness, only extraordinary transparency and precision, allied to massive fruit intensity. A blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, this super-concentrated claret possesses a style reminiscent of the sumptuous 1990 combined with the structure of the 1989. The color is an opaque purple, the pH is a relatively normal 3.7, and the finish is endless. The flavor profile bursts with black currant, blackberry, and boysenberry fruit intertwined with hints of spring flowers and crushed rocks. Huge body, sweet tannin, and wonderful freshness make for one of the all-time great wines ever produced at Montrose. I hope to be drinking this wine with great pleasure before the Man comes for me. Kudos to Jean-Bernard Delmas. (Tasted two times.)
Leoville Lascases F	2000	12×75cl	£2,250	1	98
Along with the Medoc first growths, Leoville Barton, Chateau Montrose, Sociando Mallet, and a handful of other producers, Leoville Las Cases continues to make a wine meant for very long-term cellaring. When I did my earlier tastings of the 2000, my projected maturity dates were 2012-2040, but it is looking more like 2020-2050. This full-bodied blend of nearly 77% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14.4% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc still has a youthful ruby/purple color, notes of graphite, kirsch liqueur, black currants, and lead pencil shavings, with good acidity, the tell-tale purity, layered ripeness and intensity, and a profound finish. However, with its high level of tannin and brooding backwardness, this superb effort needs to be forgotten for up to a decade.
Haut Bailly	2008	12×75cl	£720	10	96
A candidate for the -wine of the vintage,- the 2008 Haut-Bailly possesses incredible complexity. Tell-tale notes of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, damp earth, black cherries and black currants intermixed with a hint of subtle barbecue smoke are present in this classic, quintessential Graves. Medium-bodied with an emerging, precocious complexity, it is a super-pure, beautifully textured, long wine that can be drunk now or cellared for 20-25 years. Bravo!
La Mission Haut Brion F	2002	12×75cl	£1,240	2	89
This angularly-styled La Mission possesses hard tannin that may or may not dissipate over time. It exhibits a dark ruby color in addition to a sweet perfume of dusty, loamy soil notes interwoven with notions of white flowers, blueberries, black currants, and hints of toasty oak in the background. Medium-bodied and austere, it requires 2-4 years of bottle age, and should keep for 12-15.
Petit Cheval	2003	12×75cl	£1,000	1	–
(Notes not available)
Pontet Canet F	2003	12×75cl	£840	10	95
One cannot say enough about the labors of proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who has personally overseen the dramatic increase in quality of the wines at Pontet-Canet which started in a significant manner with 1994. This is a classic Pauillac-styled wine (meaning oodles of cassis flavors), as one might expect from a vineyard on the plateau of Pauillac, across the street from Mouton-Rothschild. One of the great successes of the vintage and certainly one of the most profound Pontet-Canets made over the last decade is the 2003. Deep purple to the rim with a glorious nose of scorched earth, black currant jam, smoke, licorice, and roasted meats, it is full-bodied, incredibly powerful, dense, with low acidity but high tannin, broad-shouldered, and savory. This is a stunning, pure, classic Pontet-Canet that should be at its best between 2010 and 2035.
Lafite Rothschild F	1996	12×75cl	£10,200	2	100
Tasted three times since bottling, the 1996 Lafite-Rothschild is unquestionably this renowned estate’s greatest wine. As I indicated last year, only 38% of the crop was deemed grand enough to be put into the final blend, which is atypically high in Cabernet Sauvignon (83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Cabernet Franc, 7% Merlot, and 3% Petit Verdot). This massive wine may be the biggest, largest-scaled Lafite I have ever tasted. It will require many years to come around, so I suspect all of us past the age of fifty might want to give serious consideration as to whether we should be laying away multiple cases of this wine. It is also the first Lafite-Rothschild to be put into a new engraved bottle (designed to prevent fraudulent imitations). The wine exhibits a thick-looking, ruby/purple color, and a knock-out nose of lead pencil, minerals, flowers, and black currant scents. Extremely powerful and full-bodied, with remarkable complexity for such a young wine, this huge Lafite is oozing with extract and richness, yet has managed to preserve its quintessentially elegant personality. This wine is even richer than it was prior to bottling. It should unquestionably last for 40-50 years. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2050. The wine of the vintage?
Pichon Lalande F	2003	12×75cl	£1,000	1	95
The brilliant, opulent, fleshy 2003 Pichon Lalande (65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot) possesses a high pH of 3.8 as well as 13% alcohol. Reminiscent of the 1982 Pichon Lalande (which never shut down and continues to go from strength to strength), the dense plum/purple-colored 2003 offers gorgeous aromas of blackberries, plum liqueur, sweet cherries, smoke, and melted licorice. Fleshy, full-bodied, and intense, displaying a seamless integration of wood, acidity, tannin, and alcohol, this beauty can be drunk now or cellared for 20 years or more.
Raymond LafonEP	2011	12×75cl	£245	5	90-92
The 2011 Raymond Lafon was picked from three tries representing six lots (the first and last de-selected for the second label) between September 19 and October 5, the earliest harvest since 1893. It has 149 grams per liter residual sugar and a pH of 3.83. It has an understated bouquet of honey, grilled almond, pineapple and quince aromas. It comes across as tight and not expressive at this early stage, but that will certainly change. The palate offers a light, almond and quince-tinged entry and it represents a lighter, feminine take on the vintage. It is a Raymond Lafon that will be beautifully balanced and endowed with a precise finish that neatly offsets sweetness against acidity. Drink 2013-2028. Neal Martin
Bastor LamontagneEP	2011	12×75cl	£150	5	89-91
The Bastor-Lamontagne offers a more exotic bouquet that its peers, with subtle tropical fruit aromas mingling with kiwi fruit and even a hint of toffee apple. It is well-defined but it needs to develop more intensity during maturation. The palate has a spicy entry with mint-tinged, honeyed fruit that leads to a precise, mineral-rich, focused finish that offers a touch of shaved ginger on the aftertaste. This is an intriguing Sauternes that should age with style and may offer more after bottling. Drink 2014-2028. Neal Martin
Doisy Daene Blanc, SecEP	2011	12×75cl	£115	5	–
(Notes not available)
Chevalier de LascombesEP	2011	12×75cl	£155	5	81-83
The nose appears rather dry and dusty. The palate is sweet on the entry but the tannins are hard and it dries out on the finish. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
FilhotEP	2011	12×75cl	£160	10	88-90
Although recent vintages of Filhot have been disappointing, I am more optimistic about the 2011. There is an attractive nutty note on the bouquet that is crisp and defined. The palate is nicely balanced with fresh, honeyed fruit while the viscous finish lacquers the mouth with the chutzpah that has been absent of late. I hope that this Sauternes remains on course throughout its barrel maturation because Filhot needs to be up there with the greats. Drink 2014-2020. Neal Martin
Beau Séjour BécotEP	2011	12×75cl	£369	5	90-92
A typical example of Beau-Sejour Becot (a 40-acre vineyard on top of St.-Emilion’s limestone plateau), yields were 37 hectoliters per hectare and the wine is relatively powerful for a 2011 (14.5% alcohol). The final blend was 70% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. This modern-styled effort exhibits copious aromas of toasty oak, espresso roast, melted chocolate, black currants and cherries. The nearly exotic, somewhat flamboyant and elegant St.-Emilion is not a big bruiser, but rather possesses plenty of finesse and freshness because of its acid levels. It should drink well for two decades.
Doisy DaeneEP	2011	12×75cl	£270	5	95-97
The aromatics on the Doisy-Daene comes racing out of the blocks like a March hare, soaring from the glass with honey, quince and lychee aromas with a sorbet like freshness and vivacity. The palate is supremely well balanced with a heightened level of tension and purity, offering delectable but subtle notes of white peach and apricot towards the beautifully composed, mineral-rich finish. Curiously, it reminds me of a top-flight Mosel Auslese, but what a fabulous Barsac from Denis Dubourdieu! Neal Martin
Les Ormes de PezEP	2011	12×75cl	£200	15	87-89
An elegant, medium-bodied, front end-loaded effort, the dark ruby/plum-tinged 2011 Les Ormes de Pez offers attractive red and black fruits intermixed with dusty, loamy soil undertones, and medium body. This soft, consumer-friendly St.-Estephe should drink nicely for 7-8 years. It is a sleeper of the vintage.
Le Demoiselle de SociandoEP	2011	12×75cl	£115	15	–
(Notes not available)
G de GuiraudEP	2011	12×75cl	£74	15	–
(Notes not available)
Du Glana (St-Julien)EP	2011	12×75cl	£139	15	82-85
This small estate can offer good value, but the 2011 is a superficial, one-dimensional, fruity, early maturing wine with adequate color and richness. While pleasant, it is hardly worth making a special effort to find.
Tour Saint BonnetEP	2011	12×75cl	£65	25	–
(Notes not available)
Bellegrave (Pauillac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£142	10	–
(Notes not available)
Pagodes de CosEP	2011	12×75cl	£310	5	87-89
The 2011 Les Pagodes de Cos is a stylish, elegant, mid-weight blend of two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot with a small dab of Petit Verdot. It offers attractive berry fruit, licorice, underbrush and spice box notes in a finesse styled format. Drink it over the next decade.
Doisy VedrinesEP	2011	12×75cl	£215	5	90-92
The 2011 Doisy-Vedrines has a far more taciturn bouquet than the Doisy-Daene, offering its trademark tropical, peachy aromas that will hopefully develop more delineation throughout its maturation. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous entry. There are attractive spicy notes and a satisfying build in the mouth towards its botrytis-rich, tropical finish, although on this occasion I find it needing more tension to merit a higher score. Drink 2014-2030. Neal Martin
Lafite Rothschild F	1995	12×75cl	£6,800	2	95
The 1995 Lafite-Rothschild (only one-third of the harvest made it into the final blend) is a blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc. The wine was showing spectacularly well when I tasted it in November, 1997. It exhibits a dark ruby purple color, and a sweet, powdered mineral, smoky, weedy cassis-scented nose. Beautiful sweetness of fruit is present in this medium-bodied, tightly-knit, but gloriously pure, well-delineated Lafite. The 1995 is not as powerful or as massive as the 1996, but it is beautifully made with outstanding credentials, in addition to remarkable promise. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2028.
SuduirautEP	2011	12×75cl	£465	4	93-95
Picked over three tries through the vineyard from September 12 until October 5, the Suduiraut 2011 has 150 grams per liter residual sugar counterbalanced by a pH of 3.7. It has an intense nose, albeit one that takes time to unfurl in the glass, offering attractive notes of citrus lemon, minerals, apricot and quince suffused with great tension. The palate is medium-bodied with crisp, citrus-led fruit mingling with apricot and quince. It has less bravura and ambition than the 2009 or 2010, and you might consider it a Barsac-like Suduiraut due to its racy acidity. It has wonderful focus and satisfying length, and it should drink well both early and with age. Drink 2014-2035. Neal Martin
Bellevue (St Emilion)EP	2011	12×75cl	£360	10	87-89
This hard, austere, highly extracted 2011 was tasted on two separate occasions. Both times it appeared to be coming off malolactic fermentation, and was thus not showing all its best characteristics. Certainly Bellevue’s vineyard is fabulously situated, and readers looking for a striking chalkiness and austere, angular style will do no better than this. Yields were only 20 hectoliters per hectare, and the brilliant Hubert de Bouard is the consulting oenologist at this estate. The 2011 is tight and closed, and no matter how hard I tried, it was very difficult to get a bead on which direction it might go. This is another 2011 that will be more interesting to taste from bottle.
Sociando MalletEP	2011	12×75cl	£205	5	90-93
The 2011 may turn out to be even better than the 2009 Sociando Maillet. Its opaque purple color is not unusual for a young Sociando Maillet, but the creme de cassis, graphite and floral characteristics impressively saturate the olfactory senses. Medium to full-bodied with excellent purity, texture and length as well as remarkably sweet tannins, this wine should drink nicely for 10-15 years.
Le Carillon d’AngelusEP	2011	12×75cl	£370	5	–
(Notes not available)
L’Evangile	2010	12×75cl	£1,875	1	96-98
As I have been predicting, the Rothschilds are pushing l’Evangile to the highest level of the Pomerol hierarchy. Composed of 88.8% Merlot and 11.2% Cabernet Franc, the 2010 achieved 14.7% alcohol naturally, making it one of the few 2010s with lower alcohol than its 2009 counterpart (the 2009 had 15% alcohol and the 2008 had 14.5%). Most of that is due to the superb ripeness and the high concentration of Merlot in 2010. The berries were extremely tiny and the drought and cool nights in August and September gave the 2010 a lower pH and higher acidity than the 2009. For example, the 2010’s pH is 3.7, the 2009’s is higher and in 2000 it was 4.0. The dense purple-colored 2010 exhibits massive levels of black raspberries, Asian plum sauce, truffles and cassis. The wine is unctuously textured and remarkably fresh with a weighty richness (much like the 2009) but greater delineation. A marvelous effort, it, along with the 2009, may turn out to be one of the two greatest wines made by l’Evangile. The 2010 should drink well young yet last for three decades or more.
Cambon la PelouseEP	2011	12×75cl	£98	5	86-88
Two samples both very different. The best was quite fluffy and lifted on the nose with copious ripe red fruits suggesting a lot of pumping over. The palate is medium-bodied with juicy, slightly furry tannins but good depth and a fleshy, rounded finish that gives a nod to 2009. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
Lilian LadouysEP	2011	12×75cl	£114	10	–
(Notes not available)
Marquis de CalonEP	2011	12×75cl	£140	10	–
(Notes not available)
Capbern GasquetonEP	2011	12×75cl	£119	10	85-87
This seriously made, richly fruity, clean, earthy wine reveals light tannin as well as a spicy finish. It merits consumption during its first decade of life.
Croix MoutonEP	2011	12×75cl	£69	5	86-88
The La Croix Mouton has a toasty, blackberry and dark chocolate scented bouquet that is modern and showy. The palate is medium-bodied with a sinewy entry. It shows noticeable extraction, but it is clean and weighty with a dense, broody, slightly green finish that should go well with a hearty steak. Neal Martin
GazinEP	2011	12×75cl	£435	5	88-91
Gazin is normally a big, backstrapping Pomerol as its vineyard sits between Lafleur and Petrus. However, the 2011 is a softer, more gentle effort with a deep plum/purple color and a sweet bouquet of balsam wood, damp earth, black cherry jam, licorice and a hint of tomato skin. Medium to full-bodied and deep, this Gazin is closed and slightly unformed. I suspect there is more to this wine than it revealed on the several occasions I tasted it. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028.
Lafite Rothschild F EP	2011	12×75cl	£5,500	5	90-93
A blend of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot (harvested between September 3-21), the 2011 Lafite Rothschild came in at 12.6% natural alcohol (considerably lower than in 2010 and 2009). Exhibiting a deep ruby/purple color, lots of crushed rock, red and black currant, forest floor and underbrush characteristics, moderate tannin and medium body, it is built somewhat along the lines of the 1999 and 2001. It should be a 20- to 25-year wine, but it is not at the level of the 2008, 2009 and 2010. Fresh acids give the wine a somewhat more clipped feeling than most great Lafites have exhibited. Nevertheless, there is a lot of freshness and vibrancy to this vintage.
Cheval Blanc F	1990	12×75cl	£8,200	1	98
One of my favorite Cheval Blancs, it remains to be seen if the 1998, 2000, and 2008 will live up to this offering. It is the ripest wine of the aforementioned vintages, with a complex bouquet of tobacco leaf, Christmas fruitcake, sweet black fruits, bordering on fig and plum, but no hint of overripeness, and notions of new saddle leather, mint, and incense. The gorgeously expressive aromatics are followed by a full-bodied wine revealing abundant glycerin as well as elevated alcohol, but it is not hot, and nothing is out of place. Expansive, rich, and revealing the nuances and complexity that come from bottle age, it is at its peak of maturity where it should remain for another 10-15 years. Release price: ($3000.00/case)
Haut MarbuzetEP	2011	12×75cl	£215	10	87-90
Much less overtly woody than normal, the 2011 Haut-Marbuzet displays flashy, flamboyant fruit (not a characteristic of this vintage), a dark ruby/plum/purple color and cherry, black currant and subtle smoke notes. This is a fruit-driven, front end-loaded effort with good body, excellent ripeness and sweet tannin. Enjoy it over the next 7-8 years.
Duhart Milon F	2006	12×75cl	£700	4	92
It is no longer an insider’s secret that the investments made by the Rothschild family (of Lafite) in Duhart Milon are paying big dividends. A shrewd Pauillac lover’s delight, it possesses exceptional quality, yet the price remains fair. This blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon and 30% Merlot, only 50% made it into the final blend, displays some of Lafite’s classic notes of lead pencil shavings, cedar, and black currants along with more earthy, roasted herb, and spice box characteristics. Rich, full-bodied, dense, and already approachable, it should evolve easily for two decades. Good value.
Vieux Chateau Certan	2010	12×75cl	£2,150	1	96-98
RP: 96-98 2010: Alexandre Thienpont thinks 2010 is even more powerful and tannic than 2009. This is certainly a big wine, dominated by its Merlot component (86%, with the rest mostly Cabernet Franc). The natural alcohol level is 14.5%, slightly above 2009, but the pH is a healthy 3.7, and the wine, like so many 2010s, is a paradox. The alcohols are often the highest ever yet the acidities are fresh and lively, and the wine crisp and refined. This is a deep purple-colored wine, with loads of opulence and fat, a voluptuous texture and tremendous purity. The style is a modern-day version of what they probably achieved in 1947, 1949 and 1950. Thienpont attributes the wine’s freshness to the lack of any real heat wave, the drought, and the very cool nights in September. This wine should drink well for 20-40 years. JR: 18.5 Very small crop – 35 hl/ha (compared to 42 hl/ha in 2009). A Merlot vintage; only 8% Cabernet Franc. Average IPT is 90, with lots of acid. Very dark crimson. Pretty floral and scented and pretty. Very concentrated and intense. Lots of minerals on the finish. Lovely rich satisfying undertow. Hint of ripe pears oddly enough. Lovely completeness. Great balance and build. Very, very long. The strongest right-bank wine so far. Excellent layers. Very serious – a marvellously intellectual Merlot! Decanter: 19 More or less the same parcels and blend as ‘09 (86% Merlot, 14% Cabernet) but a different style. Less opulent and more classically defined. Lovely ‘natural’ fruit, huge concentration, more alcohol (14.5%), long, powerful tannins and the freshness that marks the vintage. A harmonious whole. Huge potential. Drink 2020-2060.
Mouton Rothschild F	2006	12×75cl	£4,550	1	98
A sensational effort, the 2006 Mouton Rothschild exhibits an opaque purple color as well as a classic Mouton perfume of creme de cassis, flowers, blueberries, and only a hint of oak. Dalhuin told me that in whisky barrel-tasting vintages such as 1989 and 1990, Mouton was aged in heavily-toasted barrels, and they have backed off to a much lighter toast for the barrels’ interior. I think this has worked fabulously well with the cassis quality fruit they get from their Cabernet Sauvignon. The full-bodied, powerful 2006 possesses extraordinary purity and clarity. A large-scaled, massive Mouton Rothschild that ranks as one of the top four or five wines of the vintage, it may turn out to be the longest-lived wine of the vintage by a landslide. The label will undoubtedly be controversial as a relative of Sigmund Freud, Lucian Freud, has painted a rather comical Zebra staring aimlessly at what appears to be a palm tree in the middle of a stark courtyard. I suppose a psychiatrist could figure out the relationship between that artwork and wine, but I couldn’t see one. This utterly profound Mouton will need to sleep for 15+ years before it will reveal any secondary nuances, but it is a packed and stacked first-growth Pauillac of enormous potential. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2060+.
Mouton Rothschild F	2005	12×75cl	£4,500	1	96
The 2005 Mouton Rothschild will have to take a back seat to the prodigious 2006, but administrator Philippe Dalhuin deserves considerable credit for pushing Mouton to higher quality levels over recent years. A blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot, the dark purple-hued 2005 exhibits a restrained but promising nose of cedar, tobacco leaf, creme de cassis, and toasty oak. Full-bodied, tannic, and extremely backward, with the vintage’s tell-tale acidity, it appears to be even more closed in the bottle than it was from barrel. It does possess a long finish and multilayered mouthfeel. This is an undeniably outstanding, yet restrained, shy wine for a Mouton Rothschild. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2040+
Mouton Rothschild F	1996	12×75cl	£3,800	1	94
This estate’s staff believes that the 1996 Mouton-Rothschild is very complex. I agree that among the first-growths, this wine is showing surprising forwardness and complexity in its aromatics. It possesses an exuberant, flamboyant bouquet of roasted coffee, cassis, smoky oak, and soy sauce. The impressive 1996 Mouton-Rothschild offers impressive aromas of black currants, framboise, coffee, and new saddle leather. This full-bodied, ripe, rich, concentrated, superbly balanced wine is paradoxical in the sense that the aromatics suggest a far more evolved wine than the flavors reveal. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2030. By the way, the 1996 blend consists of 72% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, and 8% Cabernet Franc.
Lynch Bages F	2008	12×75cl	£800	7	93
This strong effort from Lynch Bages may turn out to be the finest wine produced here since the 2000. It is a backward, powerful, opaque purple-colored 2008 with fine acids, firm but sweet tannins, and thick, dense levels of attractive blackberry and cassis fruit intertwined with notions of underbrush, lead pencil shavings, and roasted herbs. It appears to be a denser, richer effort than some of the more lightweight Lynch Bages offerings of recent years. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2030.
Cos d’Estournel	2003	12×75cl	£1,600	1	98
The prodigious, fantastic 2003 Cos d’Estournel is a candidate for “wine of the vintage.”� A blend of 68% Cabernet Sauvignon (unusually high for this chateau), 30% Merlot, and 2% Cabernet Franc, 17,500 cases were produced from low yields. An inky/blue/purple color is accompanied by a compelling perfume of black fruits, subtle smoke, pain grille, incense, and flowers. With extraordinary richness, full body, and remarkable freshness, elegance, and persistence, this is one of the finest wines ever made by this estate. The good news is that it will be drinkable at a young age yet evolve for three decades or more. Kudos to winemaker Jean-Guillaume Prats and owner Michel Reybier.
Haut Brion F	1998	12×75cl	£3,700	1	96
As reported over the last two years, this is a prodigious Haut-Brion. It exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a tight, but incredibly promising nose of smoke, earth, minerals, lead pencil, black currants, cherries, and spice. This full-bodied wine unfolds slowly, but convincingly on the palate, revealing a rich, multi-tiered, stunningly pure, symmetrical style with wonderful sweetness, ripe tannin, and a finish that lasts for nearly 45 seconds. It tastes like liquid nobility. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2035.
Latour F	1996	12×75cl	£6,000	2	99
A spectacular Latour, the 1996 may be the modern day clone of the 1966, only riper. This vintage, which is so variable in Pomerol, St.-Emilion, and Graves, was fabulous for the late-harvested Cabernet Sauvignon of the northern Medoc because of splendid weather in late September and early October. An opaque purple color is followed by phenomenally sweet, pure aromas of cassis infused with subtle minerals. This massive offering possesses unreal levels of extract, full body, intensely ripe, but abundant tannin, and a finish that lasts for nearly a minute. Classic and dense, it displays the potential for 50-75 years of longevity. Although still an infant, it would be educational to taste a bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2050.
Pichon Lalande F	1986	12×75cl	£1,750	1	96
Tasted 7 Times Since Bottling With Consistent Notes The 1986 is the most tannic, as well as the largest-framed Pichon-Lalande in over three decades. Whether it will ultimately eclipse the 1982 is doubtful, but it will be longer-lived. Dark ruby/purple, with a tight yet profound bouquet of cedar, blackcurrants, spicy oak, and minerals, this full-bodied, deeply concentrated, exceptionally well-balanced wine is, atypically, too brawny and big to drink young. Anticipated maturity: 1994-2015.
Mouton Rothschild F	2008	12×75cl	£4,300	1	94
The final blend of 83% Cabernet Sauvignon and 17% Merlot exhibits tell-tale black currant liqueur, incense, charcoal and floral-like characteristics. The oak is pushed to the background, one of the major improvements director Philippe Dalhuin has made at this estate. Full-bodied, deep and impressively endowed, it is a deep, rich, less massive effort than either the 2010 or 2009. This gorgeous Mouton will be drinkable in 4-5 years and age effortlessly for three decades.
Lafite Rothschild F	2005	12×75cl	£8,400	1	96
While the 2005 is another brilliantly classic Lafite Rothschild, for my taste, it comes in slightly behind their extraordinarily opulent 2003 as well as the dramatically powerful 2000. A blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon and 11% Merlot, the 2005 boasts a dark ruby/purple color in addition to that exceptional Lafite perfume of graphite, spring flowers, crushed rocks, and sweet black cherry and black currant fruit that exudes class and nobility. The wine is medium-bodied with extremely high levels of tannin in addition to sensational purity, length, and overall harmony. However, it is exceptionally backward, and even more tannic than either the 1995 or 1996. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2050+
Mouton Rothschild F	2007	12×75cl	£2,950	1	92
Composed of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot, the deep purple-colored 2007 Mouton reveals sweet aromas of creme de cassis, subtle oak, and flowers. Medium to full-bodied and elegant with sweet tannin as well as flavors and a texture that build incrementally on the palate, this strong effort should evolve over the next 15 years.
Forts de Latour F	2008	12×75cl	£1,550	5	91
A strong effort, this 2008 exhibits a dark ruby/purple color, more minerality than the 2010 and hints of cedarwood, black currants, underbrush and forest floor. This round, generous blend of 66.5% Cabernet Sauvignon and 33.5% Merlot should easily last for two decades or more.
Bahans Haut Brion	2001	12×75cl	£675	10	88
Always one of Bordeaux’s finest second wines, the 2001 Bahans-Haut-Brion exhibits a dark plum/ruby color as well as a sweet nose of cedar, earth, and red and black currants. Medium-bodied, with a supple texture, fine purity, and admirable length, it will drink well for 5-8 years.
Phelan Segur	2009	12×75cl	£260	5	90
Like many of the top 2009s, Phelan-Segur is a huge, full-bodied effort with massive fruit as well as good freshness, precision, and elegance. This is all rather paradoxical given previous great vintages that either lean toward cooler vintage characteristics or hot ones. This 2009 possesses both styles. It exhibits lots of mulberry, boysenberry, and crushed, jammy black fruits, abundant tannin, medium to full body, an opulent mouthfeel, and enough structure to evolve for two decades or more. This is a sleeper of the vintage. (Tasted two times.)
Capbern Gasqueton	2009	12×75cl	£125	5	85-87
This cool terroir has produced a tannic yet attractive wine with lots of minerality, an elegant black cherry and slightly herbaceous note, good texture, and a traditional style. It is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc. It should drink well for a decade or more. (Tasted once.)
Armailhac	2009	12×75cl	£325	8	92
The finest d’Armailhac I have tasted to date, the 2009 is largely Cabernet Sauvignon (60%) blended with a big wallop of Merlot (25%) and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Its dense purple color is followed by a big, sweet kiss of asphalt, black currants, mocha, barbecue smoke, cedar and spice. This medium to full-bodied, well-made, impressively endowed Pauillac should drink well for 20+ years.
Carruades de Lafite F	2009	12×75cl	£2,500	5	93
Of course, the wine to buy in order to get a look at the Lafite Rothschild style and personality is their second wine, Carruades de Lafite, which has become very fashionable in Asia, causing the prices to soar. A very strong effort, the 2009 Carruades de Lafite may be the finest Carruades since the 2003. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot and tiny amounts of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, it reveals lots of sweet cassis intermixed with subtle smoke and forest floor, undeniable lusciousness and full-bodied hedonism. The wood component is pushed to the background, and the wine is extremely viscous, round and delicious. Additional complexity should continue to emerge over the next decade and this 2009 should keep for 20-30 years.
Doisy Daene Blanc	2009	12×75cl	£110	5	–
(Notes not available)
Haut Brion F	2009	12×75cl	£7,650	1	100
What a blockbuster effort! Atypically powerful, one day, the 2009 Haut-Brion may be considered to be the 21st century version of the 1959. It is an extraordinarily complex, concentrated effort made from a blend of 46% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc with the highest alcohol ever achieved at this estate, 14.3%. Even richer than the perfect 1989, with similar technical numbers although slightly higher extract and alcohol, it offers up a sensational perfume of subtle burning embers, unsmoked cigar tobacco, charcoal, black raspberries, wet gravel, plums, figs and blueberries. There is so much going on in the aromatics that one almost hesitates to stop smelling it. However, when it hits the palate, it is hardly a letdown. This unctuously textured, full-bodied 2009 possesses low acidity along with stunning extract and remarkable clarity for a wine with a pH close to 4.0. The good news is that there are 10,500 cases of the 2009, one of the most compelling examples of Haut-Brion ever made. It requires a decade of cellaring and should last a half century or more. Readers who have loved the complexity of Haut-Brion should be prepared for a bigger, richer, more massive wine, but one that does not lose any of its prodigious aromatic attractions.
Carruades de Lafite F	2008	12×75cl	£2,500	1	91
A blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot and Cabernet Franc, the 2008 exhibits graphite, sandalwood, black and red currant, chocolate and damp earth characteristics in its elegant, medium to full-bodied, fresh, lively personality. It is a delicious, luscious, already evolved wine to drink over the next 15+ years.
Mouton Rothschild F	2009	12×75cl	£6,700	2	99
The 2009 Mouton Rothschild has a striking label from Anish Kapoor. The wine is a blend of 88% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12% Merlot that begs comparison as a young wine with what the 1982 tasted like in 1985 or, I suspect, what the 1959 may have tasted like in 1962. Representing 50% of their production, the wine has an inky purple color to the rim and not terribly high alcohol for a 2009 (13.2%), but that is reflected by the high percentage of Cabernet Sauvignon. It has a remarkable nose of lead pencil shavings, violets, creme de cassis and subtle barrique smells. It is stunningly opulent, fat, and super-concentrated, but the luxurious fruit tends to conceal some rather formidable tannins in the finish. This is an amazing wine that will be slightly more drinkable at an earlier age than I thought from barrel, but capable of lasting 50 or more years. Kudos to the Baroness Philippine de Rothschild and the entire Mouton team, lead by Monsieur Dalhuin.
Duhart Milon F	2009	12×75cl	£970	2	97
A blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon and 37% Merlot, it displays an inky/blue/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of creme de cassis, forest floor, licorice, lead pencil, cedar and subtle barrique smells. Viscous and full-bodied, it is the most concentrated and broadest example of this cuvee I have tasted in over three decades. It will be ready to drink in 5-7 years and should last for three decades or more. Consumers looking to maximize value should be checking out Duhart Milon, as this may be the single smartest purchase in this great and historic vintage! Since few consumers other than Chinese billionaires can afford wines such as Lafite Rothschild, perhaps it is time for readers to take a look at Duhart Milon, which sells for less than Lafite’s second wine. The Rothschilds have invested heavily in resurrecting this property to near super-star status, and the 2009 appears to be the finest Duhart I have ever tasted.
Pichon Baron F	2009	12×75cl	£1,300	1	98
Revealing incredible quality and performing better than it did from barrel, the 2009 appears to be the greatest Pichon Longueville Baron since the 1990 and 1989. An amazing opaque blue/purple color is followed by scents of spring flowers, graphite, smoky charcoal, incense, blackberries, blueberries and hints of coffee and chocolate. Incredibly intense, pure and flawlessly constructed with extravagant layers of fruit and richness, this offering has developed beautifully under the management of Christian Seeley. It is a voluptuous, opulent Pichon Longueville Baron that may eclipse anything they have made in the past. This brilliant wine should be at its peak between 2018 and 2045.
Smith Haut Lafitte	2009	12×75cl	£1,600	1	100
The finest wine ever made by proprietors Daniel and Florence Cathiard, the 2009 Smith-Haut-Lafitte exhibits an opaque blue/purple color in addition to a glorious nose of acacia flowers, licorice, charcoal, blueberries, black raspberries, lead pencil shavings and incense. This massive, extraordinarily rich, unctuously textured wine may be the most concentrated effort produced to date, although the 2000, 2005 and 2010 are nearly as prodigious. A gorgeous expression of Pessac-Leognan with sweet tannin, emerging charm and delicacy, and considerable power, depth, richness and authority, it should age effortlessly for 30-40+ years. Bravo!
Pontet Canet F	2009	12×75cl	£1,750	10	100
An amazing wine in every sense, this classic, full-bodied Pauillac is the quintessential Pontet Canet from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, who continues to reduce yields and farms his vineyards biodynamically – a rarity in Bordeaux. Black as a moonless night, the 2009 Pontet Canet offers up notes of incense, graphite, smoke, licorice, creme de cassis and blackberries. A wine of irrefutable purity, laser-like precision, colossal weight and richness, and sensational freshness, this is a tour de force in winemaking that is capable of lasting 50 or more years. The tannins are elevated, but they are sweet and beautifully integrated as are the acidity, wood and alcohol (which must be in excess of 14%). This vineyard, which is situated on the high plateau of Pauillac adjacent to Mouton Rothschild, appears to have done everything perfectly in 2009. This cuvee should shut down in the cellar and re-open in a decade or more. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2075.
Latour F	2009	12×75cl	£11,500	2	100
A blend of 91.3% Cabernet Sauvignon and 8.7% Merlot with just under 14% natural alcohol, the 2009 Latour is basically a clone of the super 2003, only more structured and potentially more massive and long lived. An elixir of momentous proportions, it boasts a dense purple color as well as an extraordinarily flamboyant bouquet of black fruits, graphite, crushed rocks, subtle oak and a notion of wet steel. It hits the palate with a thundering concoction of thick, juicy blue and black fruits, lead pencil shavings and a chalky minerality. Full-bodied, but very fresh with a finish that lasts over a minute, this is one of the most remarkable young wines I have ever tasted. Will it last one-hundred years? No doubt about it. Can it be drunk in a decade? For sure. Proprietor Francois Pinault and his director, Frederic Engerer, have pulled out all the stops to produce one of the most monumental Latour’s ever made.
Mouton Rothschild F	1998	12×75cl	£3,400	3	96
Deep garnet-black. The nose is a little mute even given this wine’s youth, providing a moderate intensity of evolving aromas: game, earth, blackcurrant jam and a whiff of dried herbs. The medium+ bodied palate is gently styled with a medium+ level of finely grained tannins and medium+ acidity. Mid-palate is a bit hollow and the finish perhaps not as long as I’d expect. Good wine but not exactly living up to its first growth status. Drink now to 2025. Tasted February 2009.
Amiral de Beychevelle	2008	12×75cl	£190	5	–
(Notes not available)
Lynch Bages F	2006	12×75cl	£820	5	94
1988 or 1995-ish in style, rather than 1996, which seems to be the vintage several 2006s recall, this dense purple-colored wine displays sweet notes of creme de cassis, tobacco leaf, licorice, and some cedar and graphite. The wine has plenty of structure a la 1995 and a backward, muscular personality, but beautiful fruit on the attack and alluring purity and a nicely textured mouthfeel. The finish suggests cellaring for 3-5 years and drinking over the following two decades.
Leoville Lascases F	2010	12×75cl	£2,000	5	95-98
RP: 95-98 2010 Leoville Las Cases: As one would expect, this is a powerful, concentrated wine with 13.7% natural alcohol (compared to 2005’s 13.2%). The pH is quite normal at 3.56, and its relatively high total acidity gives it a classic, fresh, yet backward style. Given how long vintages such as 1982, 1986, and I suspect, 2000 are taking to reach maturity, prospective purchasers of this wine should easily invest in a decade of cellaring, although I suspect it will be closer to 15 or more years before it reveals secondary nuances. A good 40- to 50-year wine, it is a dense purple, full-bodied style of Las Cases, with classic sweet kirsch, graphite and black currant fruit as well as hints of new saddle leather and subtle oak. Backward, layered and multi-dimensional, the wine is stunningly rich, but brooding. Forget it at least until 2020 or later. JR: 17.5 Excellent deep crimson. Very introvert and very dry. Super-sweet start and initially seems much rounder and less obdurate than usual. Though those dry tannins certainly creep up on you at the end! Some silkiness and glorying in the special ripeness of the Cabernet in this wine. Very dry end. Not that long funnily enough. A certain transparency that is not usually there. Decanter: 19.5 Stunning concentration of fruit, precision and purity, a great vineyard expression and a totally great wine in the most simple sense of the term. Drink 2025-50. Neil Martin: 96-98 Cropped at 36.7hl/ha, the Leoville Las-Cases is a blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc, offering 13.7% alcohol and a pH of 3.56. It will be raised in 75% new oak. The nose is very intense with notes of blackberry, cassis, tobacco and a touch of black truffle, all very well defined and perhaps less generous, but more cerebral than the 2009. The palate is full-bodied with exceptionally silky smooth tannins, wonderful harmony and sense of beguiling composure and completeness. The finish is tannic, driven by the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. I expect this Las-Cases to close down for a few years...it will need time to mellow and reach its drinking plateau. Drink 2025- Tasted March 2011.
Tourelles de Longueville	2010	12×75cl	£319	19	90-93
Wine Spectator: 90-93 Jancis Robinson: 16.5
Latour F	2010	12×75cl	£10,250	1	98-100
It’s too early to know for sure, but the 2010 Latour appears to be a huge and massive Pauillac fruit bomb from this property. With 14.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 90.5% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8.5% Merlot and .5% Cabernet Franc, director Frederic Engerer told me it is unlike any other wine made at this estate. Possessing abundant amounts of everything, it even eclipses the 2009 in terms of power with a lower pH and higher total acidity. Representing only 36% of the production (making it even more difficult to find than usual, as this is the smallest of the Medoc first growths), it possesses an opaque black/purple color along with an extraordinary perfume of spring flowers, blueberry, blackberry and cassis liqueurs and hints of white chocolate as well as earth intermixed with vague charcoal and truffle-like components. With unreal concentration, full-bodied power, and a precision, freshness and refined level of tannins that are something to behold, this remarkable offering is one of my personal favorites of the vintage. It will undoubtedly shut down after bottling and enjoy 50-60 years of longevity.
Les Ormes de Pez	2010	12×75cl	£210	15	87-90
RP: 87-90 This dense purple-colored 2010 exhibits dark raspberry and blueberry fruit notes, less power and structure than its neighbor De Pez, but more finesse, elegance and fruit forwardness. This impressively endowed effort should drink nicely for 10-15 years. JR: 17 Healthy crimson. Ripe and robust. Big and bold without much care for seduction. Very solid but it will take a lot of time to settle down. Neil Martin: 92-94 Tasted at Lynch-Bages and the UGC, the vineyard suffered some hail damage and some parcels lost as much as 30-40% of the crop and the yield which is 44hl/ha. The Les Ormes de Pez is a blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc and 2% Petit Verdot raised in 45% new oak. It has a very sensual, very pure bouquet with dark cherries, boysenberry, wild hedgerow, mint and a touch of vanilla, much more feminine than the wines of the past. The palate is medium-bodied with succulent tannins on the entry, very good ripeness here and the Cabernet Sauvignon is really in harmony with the ripe Merlot. Voluminous and silky smooth towards the finish, this is an outstanding Les Ormes de Pez. Drink 2015- Tasted March 2011.
Suduiraut	2010	12×75cl	£495	10	94-96
The Chateau Suduiraut has a comparatively rich, botrytized bouquet with dried honey, pineapple and a touch of Seville orange marmalade, with exquisite definition and focus. The palate is well-balanced, with a viscous texture and a good level of botrytis, demonstrating fine minerality and tautness. Dried mango, quince and spice all interlace the focused finish, which is long in the mouth. Tasted against its peers, this has a higher level of intensity and focus. A superb follow-up to the sensational 2009
RieussecEP	2011	12×75cl	£350	5	91-93
The 2011 Rieussec has a lifted, at the moment quite oaky, bouquet with scents of honey, almond and pineapple. Hopefully it will develop more definition by the time of bottling. The palate is medium-bodied with tropical fruit and mandarin on the entry and a satisfying viscous core of honeyed fruit. It seems a little disjointed towards the finish, although I am sure it will become more cohesive by the time of bottling. For me, it just seems a little predictable. Drink 2015-2028+. Neal Martin
Clerc Milon	2010	12×75cl	£500	5	91-93
RP: 91-93 2010: The powerful 2010 is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc and the balance mostly Merlot except for dollops of Petit Verdot and Carmenere that achieved 14.5% natural alcohol – a record at Clerc Milon. An intense purple color is followed by notes of incense, creme de cassis and flowers and a broad, rich wine with superb purity, concentration and depth. This layered, expansive effort could turn out to be one of the finest this estate has ever made. Give it 3-5 years of cellaring and drink it over the following two decades. JR: 17 Still some purple in the crimson. Less obvious nose than the Armailhac 1995. Hint of mint, solid and sweetly polished. Good effort to cover what must have bene pretty dry tannins, but less flavour than the Armailhac. Fresh and bracing and clean – a good palate cleanser. Decanter: 18 Rich blackcurrant fruit with some dry herbs/coffee spice nose, very good middle fruit and a firm, elegant structure and class, a château on top form. Drink 2018-35. Neil Martin: 91-93 A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot, 11% Cabernet Franc, 2% Petit Verdot and 1% Camenere is a little reticent at first, but after 2 minutes of rigorous coaxing evolves a very pure nose of macerated black cherries, blueberry and cassis with very fine delineation. The palate is medium-bodied with a compact entry that seems to expand as it remain in the mouth. The tannins are a little more prominent than the d’Armailhac with a citrus-like freshness on the finish. It has a little more alcohol (14.5%) thanks to the Merlot compared to the others, but there it is what you might describe as a joyous Clerc-Milon. Drink 2015- Tasted April 2011.
Petit Haut Lafitte	2009	12×75cl	£215	20	–
(Notes not available)
Duhart Milon F	2010	12×75cl	£950	10	94-96
RP: 94-96 2010: This large estate (190 acres) has been on a qualitative rise for nearly a decade. A classic Pauillac, the opaque purple-colored 2010, a blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon and 27% Merlot, reveals beautiful notes of creme de cassis, licorice, tobacco leaf and forest floor. Bigger and more muscular than most previous vintages, this full-bodied Pauillac possesses stunning density as well as intensity. Atypically high in alcohol for this property, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring and should age effortlessly for 25-30 years. JR: 17 73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot. Extremely deep crimson. Sweet pruney start – looks much more intense than Carruades, presumably because of all the Cabernet. Very introvert; not much nose. Juicy, fresh and liquorice – lots of energy. Lots of freshness. Dry finish. Very subtle but with extremely marked tannins. Just a little rugged. But the fruit is wonderfully concentrated… Decanter: 18 Concentrated black fruits, powerful yet lifted, structured and long term elegance, a great Duhart. Drink 2020-35. Neil Martin: 92-94 A blend of 73% Cabernet Sauvignon (slightly less than 2009) and 27% Merlot, cropped between 24th September and 12th October, the Duhart has a well-defined, classic Cabernet bouquet with blackberry, smoke and a touch of cigar box. Quite Zen-like and introspective in a way but very fine delineation and class. The palate is very well balanced with very ripe Cabernet fruit, just a touch of spice and dried herbs coming through, very Duhart, very Pauillac in style with a slightly austere Pauillac finish that I really appreciate. I probably prefer this to the 2009. Excellent. Drink 2017-2030+ Tasted March 2011.
Pontet Canet F	2010	12×75cl	£1,300	5	96-100
RP: 96-100 2010: Pontet-Canet’s 2010 harvest took place between September 29 and October 17 (this vineyard is one of the few in Bordeaux that is fully certified as biodynamic) and the final blend was 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that achieved nearly 15% natural alcohol. A remarkable, full-bodied effort (as was the estate’s 2009 and 2008), like so many recent vintages from proprietor Alfred Tesseron, it is of first-growth quality (some may even argue that it eclipses several first-growths). Dense purple to the rim, it offers classic notes of creme de cassis, graphite, subtle smoke and spring flowers. Multidimensional with massive concentration as well as vivid purity, precision and freshness, this is another astonishing effort from an obsessive/compulsive proprietor who is doing everything right. On the downside, this 2010 will require a decade of cellaring and should evolve for 50+ years. It will be fascinating to drink it side by side with the 2009 and 2008. JR: 17.5 Dense, rich and minty on the nose with real density. Lots of luscious chew. This is clearly from a great vintage with huge vivacity. Heavy undertow. Long. Minerals and firm. Racy. Decanter: 18.5 Dense colour and pure Cabernet blackcurrant fruit beautifully extracted with great length and perfect harmony, great purity of expression, exuberant yet restrained, great future. Drink 2016-30. Neil Martin: 93-95 The Pontet Canet has a very pure bouquet that you could almost compare to a Burgundy. Blackberry, dark cherries, a touch of mint and graphite, exceptionally well defined, flowering with 3-4 minutes in the glass. The palate is full-bodied with very fine but firm, tensile tannins, perhaps even more purity than the 2009, not a million miles away (both geographically and stylistically) from Mouton-Rothschild. The finish is very smooth with a sorbet-like freshness, firm grip, long in the mouth towards the finish with some crème de cassis and blueberry towards the finish. The Merlot content lends this a little more opulence than some of the other Pauillac 2010s. There is a lot of volume to this wine, really fills the mouth with a sweet, sensual finish, but keep find myself yearning for more Cabernet Sauvignon . Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March 2011
Mouton Rothschild F	2000	12×75cl	£9,750	1	96
Perhaps the most beautiful packaging ever on a Bordeaux bottle, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild literally produced a work of art in the gold-engraved bottle of 2000 Mouton Rothschild. Of course, one can’t drink the glass, but this is a top-flight Mouton Rothschild, eclipsed only by the 2006 and 2009. A rich, tannic, earthy style, with loads of creme de cassis and floral notes, the final blend of 86% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Merlot is a full-bodied wine with plenty of coffee, earth, chocolatey notes, and still plenty of tannin to resolve. I gave it an anticipated maturity range of 2015-2050 back in 2003, and that looks on target.
Mouton Rothschild F	1986	12×75cl	£6,800	1	100
Deep garnet-black colour. An incredible array of aromas on the nose: blackberry, black cherry, tobacco, espresso, leather, black olive and loam. The palate is absolutely seamless from first impression to finish, effortlessly building layers of complexity in the mouth and leading to a very long, earth and spice finish. I can’t see how this could possibly be improvement so have no alternative but concede perfection. Drink now to 2045+. Tasted March 2009.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2006	12×75cl	£2,150	5	95
One of the vintage’s top wines is the 2006 La Mission-Haut-Brion. From bottle, it reminds me of the 1998, given its structure and backward style. Dense ruby/purple-colored, it possesses a boatload of tannin, but with coaxing, tobacco leaf, sweet black currant, burning ember, and blue fruit characteristics emerge. While thick and full-bodied, the tannins seem more elevated than I remember from barrel. It is going to be a beauty, but like many of the top 2006s, considerable patience is required. Only 55% of the production made it into the grand vin as Jean-Philippe Delmas made a severe selection. The final blend was 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and the 2006 has one of the highest natural alcohols ever achieved at La Mission, averaging around 14.3%, which is astonishingly high for a Graves. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2035.
Ausone	2003	12×75cl	£10,000	1	100
The 2003 Ausone is off the charts in terms of richness. While I gave a 3-digit score to the 2000, I think this profoundly concentrated wine may be even more sublime and exotic. Its inky/blue/purple color is followed by an extraordinary perfume of flowers, crushed rocks, sweet raspberries, blackberries, blueberries, and God knows what else. The impression is one of extraordinary richness and purity, and a multilayered texture yet a surreal lightness as well as laser-like precision. This exquisite offering must be tasted to be believed. Incredibly young, it will undoubtedly close down over the next few years, re-emerging after 15-20 years. It should last for 70-100 years. It is a wine for anthology! No one in Bordeaux has made greater progress in taming the extraordinary potential of this noble terroir than Alain Vauthier, an obsessed perfectionist if there ever was one. He has instituted a Draconian selection at this tiny estate, both in the vineyard and the cellar, and the second wine, Chapelle d’Ausone, has also become one of the region’s finest wines. Prospective purchasers should be aware that Ausone requires 10-20 years of cellaring before it approaches maturity.
Pichon Lalande F	2008	12×75cl	£760	3	92
The 2008 is a beauty in the style of the 1988. Although not performing as well as I predicted last year, it is unquestionably an outstanding effort as well as one of the better values from Pichon Lalande in many years. Its dense plum/purple hue is accompanied by sweet aromas of red and black currants, charcoal, herbs, underbrush and a hint of truffles. This medium-bodied, rich, concentrated blend of 63% Cabernet Sauvignon, 29% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot and 3% Cabernet Franc is an elegant, supple Pichon Lalande that can be drunk now or cellared for 15-20 years.
Cos d’Estournel	2007	12×75cl	£730	10	90
A beautiful wine with 13.4% natural alcohol, this blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Merlot, and 3% Cabernet Franc possesses a deep ruby/purple color as well as a sweet perfume of cassis, incense, charcoal, and subtle oak, round, generously endowed flavors, medium to full body, silky tannin, and surprising depth and length. It can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years.
Haut Brion F	2001	12×75cl	£3,100	1	94
Haut-Brion’s 2001, which was bottled late (the end of September, 2003), possesses an unmistakable nobility as well as a burgeoning complexity. Plum/purple to the rim, this blend of 52% Merlot, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 12% Cabernet Franc is playing it close to the vest, having closed down considerably after bottling. Nevertheless, it reveals pure notes of sweet and sour cherries, black currants, licorice, smoke, and crushed stones. Medium-bodied with excellent purity, firm tannin, and an angular, structured finish, it requires 5-7 years of cellaring. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020+.
Haut Brion F	2004	12×75cl	£2,900	2	92
Medium to deep garnet colour. The nose is still a little mute giving a moderate intensity of youthful aromas: ripe plums, cassis, Chinese five spice, moss and a fair amount of cedar. Oak tannins seem to dominate the structure contributing to the taut astringency of the palate yet there is a good amount of ripe berry and earthy fruit plus medium acidity to balance. Long earthy finish. Drink 2012 to 2034. Tasted February 2009.
Margaux F	2003	12×75cl	£4,900	1	99
Am I being too stingy with the 2003 Chateau Margaux? A wine of extraordinary complexity and intensity, it reveals a deep purple color, a style not unlike the 1990 Margaux (possibly even more concentrated), a velvety texture, and notes of spring flowers interwoven with camphor, melted licorice, creme de cassis, and pain grille. Not a blockbuster, it offers extraordinary intensity as well as a surreal delicacy/lightness. There is riveting freshness to this offering, which tips the scales at a lofty (for this estate) 13.5% alcohol, as well as an alluring sweetness and accessibility. It probably will tighten up over the next few years. Nevertheless, it is a profound Chateau Margaux that brings to mind a hypothetical blend of the 1982 and 1990. Anticipated maturity: 2011-2035.
Margaux F	2005	12×75cl	£6,400	1	98
Another celestial effort from Paul Pontallier and Corinne Mentzelopoulus, the 2005 Margaux, a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Merlot, boasts a dense opaque blue/purple color as well as an extraordinary bouquet of spring flowers, blueberries, black raspberries, creme de cassis, licorice, and, despite its having spent two years in 100% new wood, only a subtle touch of toasty oak. Although full-bodied, the wine seems light on its feet because of the silky tannins as well as the great gravel terroir from which it comes. Beautiful purity, length, and nobility define this modern day classic. Is it better than the 2000, 1996, 1990, or some of the vintages from the decade of the eighties? Who knows, but it is unquestionably one of the all-time great wines made at Chateau Margaux. This estate has produced only exceptional wines over the last three decades. The seamlessness of the 2005 suggests it will perform well early, but it should last for a half century or more. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2050+.
Montrose F	2007	12×75cl	£510	12	91
One of the stars of the vintage, the 2007 Montrose boasts a deep blue/purple color as well as a sweet bouquet of creme de cassis, crushed rocks, and spring flowers. Dense and opulent with silky tannins, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, a long finish, and no hard edges, this beauty should drink well for 15+ years.
Carruades de Lafite F	2010	12×75cl	£2,200	5	91-94
RP: 91-94 2010 Carruades de Lafite: Composed of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest mostly Merlot and a dollop of Cabernet Franc, the beautiful 2010 Carruades de Lafite may turn out to be one of the finest yet produced (although I still have a weakness for the brilliant 2003, which is drinking beautifully at present). Notes of charcoal, black currants, sweet cherries, licorice, herbs and cedar are all present in this full-bodied, opulent, stunning second wine. It will be drinkable upon release and should last for 20 or more years.
Rieussec	2007	12×75cl	£300	3	93
This has a very primal nose, the oak exposed at the moment although there is obviously a great deal of fruit concentration underneath. The palate is well balanced, a little oaky on the entry, dried honey, lemon curd, apricot and orange peel towards the linear finish. Tightly coiled Sauternes, quite modern in style, this should develop over 8-10 years in the bottle before really opening up and one hopes, evolve a little more “personality”. Drink 2011-2025.
Montrose F	2010	12×75cl	£1,520	4	96-99
RP: 96-99 2010 Montrose: Jean Delmas believes this is one of the all-time great wines of Montrose, comparable to the 2009, 1990, 1989, 1959, 1947, 1945 and 1929. The 2010 harvest took place between September 27 and October 15, and the final blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot that achieved 13.75% natural alcohol, a fraction above the 2009’s 13.7%. Somewhat reminiscent of the 1989, only even inkier and richer, the 2010 boasts a dense purple color along with glorious aromatics of blueberries, boysenberries, black currants and a crushed chalk-like minerality. The tannins are less intrusive than I would have suspected for such a young Montrose, but they are unquestionably ripe and well-integrated. Deep, full-bodied and massive, this beauty should be at its finest between 2018-2050. JR: 17 53% Cabernet Sauvignon (75% last year! And expected to increase), 37% Merlot, 9% Malbec, 1% Petit Verdot. 64% of total production and remarkable for the unusually high proportion of Merlot in the grand vin blend – because of the purchase of vineyard from Phelan Ségur last year (did this help the Phelan purchase of restaurant Taillevent in Paris?) Very deep crimson. Quite different from most of these northern Médoc wines – much rounder and less fresh (presumably because of the Merlot). Very different from classical austere Montroses but soft and charming. As a wine, it is extremely well made with just a little furriness on the finish. As a Montrose it’s a bit disconcerting but my mark ignores this. Rather unusual lack of freshness. Just a bit plodding, astringent and sweet on the end. Decanter: 18 Elegant, quite reserved fruit, quite discreet now, will gain in length, but less exciting than 2009. Drink 2020-35. Neil Martin: 96-98 Tasted at the Château, Montrose is a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot picked between from 27th September through to 15th October, cropped at 45hl/ha. It has 13.8% alcohol with a pH 3.65. The bouquet is tightly wound at first, pure blackberry, dark cherries, just a touch of coca with very good vigour. Very juicy, quite saturated with a very dense, impenetrable finish. Sinewy, structured and masculine, with a slight saline touch on the aftertaste. This is a great Montrose that will one day be fascinating to compare against the 2009. Drink 2020-2050. Tasted March 2011.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2004	12×75cl	£1,350	2	90
While La Mission Haut-Brion’s 2004 is not one of this estate’s top successes, it is an outstanding wine, no doubt because of this extraordinary terroir. Deep ruby/purple with notes of lead pencil shavings intermixed with black cherries, cassis, and a hint of scorched earth, medium body, sweet tannin, and a good, but uninspiring finish, this attractive, mid-weight La Mission should age nicely for 15 or more years.
Pichon Baron F	2010	12×75cl	£1,480	5	97-99
Jancis: Decanter: Neal Martin: /> Parker review: 2010: A prodigious, blockbuster effort from Pichon Longueville Baron, the 2010 is reminiscent of this estate’s titanic offerings in 1989 and 1990, but may be even greater with 30 years of longevity. Kudos to proprietor AXA and general director Christian Seeley. It was absolutely compelling on each of the three times I tasted it. Black/purple-colored with super concentration and richness as well as full body, it offers an awesome display of creme de cassis, blackberry liqueur, licorice, camphor and spring flowers. Stunningly pure and unctuously textured with high but sweet, well-integrated tannins, this superstar of the vintage is definitely a wine to purchase as a future. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2040.
Lynch Bages F	2010	12×75cl	£1,100	5	95-97
Over the last three vintages, Lynch Bages has returned with a vengeance after somewhat listless performances following their brilliant duo of 1989 and 1990. Much of the credit for this must go to Jean-Charles Cazes who has taken over for his father, Jean-Michel, one of the greatest ambassadors Bordeaux has ever had. The 2010 blew me away on each occasion I tasted it during my two week sojourn in Bordeaux. Tannic and concentrated, this huge Pauillac boasts an inky/purple color as well as impressive notes of creme de cassis, smoke, graphite and spring flowers. This dense, seriously endowed, monstrous Lynch Bages is reminiscent of some of the wines made at this estate in the 1950s, 1960s, 1970s and 1980s. It will require 4-5 years of cellaring and should be drinkable for 3-4 decades.
Lafite Rothschild F	2010	12×75cl	£9,000	1	98-100
RP: 98-100 2010 Lafite Rothschild: This exceptionally rich, thick Lafite came in with the highest level of natural alcohol (13.5%) ever achieved at Lafite Rothschild. To put that in its proper context, the 2009 and 2005 were 13.3% and in the hottest Bordeaux summer ever recorded in over 200 years, the 2003 achieved 12.8%. A blend of 84% Cabernet Sauvignon and 16% Merlot, all harvested between October 9 and 14, the 2010 exhibits an extraordinarily dense color, an unctuous texture and sweet black currant fruit intermixed with graphite, charcoal and truffle notes. A director Charles Chevalier told me, between July and the October harvest, Bordeaux had its driest weather since 1949, but it never got excessively hot. Hence the tiny berries, freshness and extraordinary precision of Lafite Rothschild. This superb effort will undoubtedly shut down slightly once it is bottled despite a pH of 3.8. It needs no building up because much of Lafite Rothschild has now become an obsession with the wealthy Chinese and most of it will undoubtedly be consumed before it ever hits its prime. Ideally, it should be cellared for 10-15 years and drunk over the following 50+ years. JR: 18.5 Tasted 17 Feb: Very youthful and very Cabernet and pretty spicy. Very correct and with an attractive dryness on the finish. Very snazzy. Tasted 8 Apr: 94% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Merlot. Burnished dark pruney crimson. Very opulent and heady on the nose. Lovely perfume. Lots of fully ripe black fruits. Amazingly polished – so much so that you are almost distracted from the huge tannic charge. Not quite as dense as some of the greatest 2010s but very well balanced. Hugely Cabernet. As in 2009, great care has been taken not to produce too heavy a wine. There is almost Lafite-like structure here. Very, very polished middle palate. Bone dry, pretty tannic finish. Decanter: 20 Fabulous nose of wild violets, wonderful lissom texture backed by aristocratic firmness, a totally captivating wine for the long term. Drink 2020-50. Neil Martin: 95-97 The 2010 is a blend of 87.2% Cabernet Sauvignon and 12.8% Merlot, cropped between 24th September until 13th October, delivering 13.48% alcohol at pH 3.82. Whereas the 2009 Lafite was an immediate “wow”, this is far more introspective and broody, particular coming directly after Latour. Deep, dusky dark berried fruit, a touch of cedar and pencil box. Good definition but not as expressive or as vigorous as I was expected. The palate is medium-bodied, very well balanced with fine but structure tannins, masculine in style, understated compared to Latour. I take a little sip (pourquoi pas?) and there is another annexe of dark cherry and a touch of boysenberry. Hints of cedar and spice towards the dry, tannic finish. This is a Lafite that will grow during its élevage. Drink 2020- Tasted March 2011.
Haut Brion F	2010	12×75cl	£6,800	1	98-100
RP: 98-100 2010 Haut-Brion: Following a harvest that finished on October 10, Haut-Brion produced a 2010 that should turn out to be one of its all-time greats ... an amazing feat given what they have accomplished over recent vintages. A blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc that came in at 14.6% alcohol, the 2010 boasts an opaque purple color as well as a gorgeous perfume of scorched earth/burning embers, blueberries, black currant liqueur and crushed rocks. Full and opulent with nobility, finesse, purity and elegance, this amazing effort possesses extraordinary levels of extract as well as formidable, but sweet, well-integrated tannins. It requires 8-10 years of cellaring and should drink well for 50+ years. JR: 18 23% Merlot, 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc. 7,800 cases, not 10,000+ as in 2009. 42% grand vin (compared with 57% in 2009). Full, opulent nose in which the classic Haut-Brion aroma is well masked by lots of slightly austere fruit. Very fine tannins – very drying finish. An extremely slow burner. Much drier than La Mission, and at the moment not desperately expressive. Its lips are pursed at the moment, and so are mine tasting it. Unusual to come across such a long-term wine even here. This may not make a massive impact en primeur because it is keeping so much in reserve. I think it will eventually make a great wine but it’s surly at the moment. Decanter: 19.5 Stunning aromas of beautifully concentrated red fruits, already expressive, even exuberant, a taffeta-like finesse hides great strength for the long term. Drink 2020-45. Neil Martin: 96-98 A blend of 23% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Cabernet Franc, this has a quintessential Haut-Brion nose with that trait of fresh black olives defining the nose straight out of the blocks. It is a little less opulent than La Mission but with slightly better clarity at this stage. The palate displays very fine, succulent tannins and like the La Mission there is a Pauillac-like personality thanks to the graphite imparted by the ripe Cabernet Sauvignon. Wonderful definition towards the finish. This is a superb Haut-Brion. Tasted March 2011.
Lafite Rothschild F	1998	12×75cl	£6,500	1	98
A blend of 81% Cabernet Sauvignon and 19% Merlot, this wine represents only 34% of Lafite’s total harvest. In a less than perfect Medoc vintage, it has been spectacular since birth, putting on more weight and flesh over the last year. This opaque purple-colored 1998 is close to perfection. The spectacular nose of lead pencil, smoky, mineral, and black currant fruit soars majestically from the glass. The wine is elegant yet profoundly rich, revealing the essence of Lafite’s character. The tannin is sweet, and the wine is spectacularly layered yet never heavy. The finish is sweet, super-rich, yet impeccably balanced and long (50+ seconds). Anticipated maturity: 2007-2035.
Rieussec	2006	12×75cl	£270	5	–
(Notes not available)
Beychevelle F EP	2011	12×75cl	£490	3	87-89
A medium-bodied, pleasant, lighter style of St.-Julien, the 2011 Beychevelle reveals a dark plum/ruby color in addition to notes of strawberries, black cherries, new saddle leather and hints of herbs and earth. Refreshing and delicate, it should drink well for 10-15 years.
La Confession (St EMilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£210	5	90-92
Producer Jean-Philippe Janoueix, who does such a super job with his Pomerol, La Croix Saint-Georges, and his generic Bordeaux, Croix Mouton, has this vineyard in fine working form. The 2011 La Confession (69% Merlot and 31% Cabernet Franc) hit 13.9% natural alcohol. Its dark blue/black color is followed by abundant notes of creosote, camphor, blackberries and blueberries intertwined with notions of espresso roast and new oak. With outstanding concentration, texture and ripeness, this medium to full-bodied, surprisingly evolved, delicious St.-Emilion should drink well young and last for 12-15+ years.
Lynch Bages F EP	2011	12×75cl	£725	10	90-93
Another strong effort produced under the administration of Jean-Charles Cazes (the son of Jean-Michel Cazes, who spent decades building Lynch Bages into one of the most popular Bordeaux estates), the 2011 boasts an inky/purple hue in addition to copious aromas of black currants, incense, forest floor and ink. Deep, rich, medium to full-bodied and layered with supple tannins as well as the vintage-s freshness and vibrancy, it should age easily for 20 years.
Rauzan Segla	2009	12×75cl	£800	5	93
A classic Margaux, this blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon and 43% Merlot reveals a dense plum/blue/purple color in addition to a sumptuous perfume of subtle new oak interwoven with underbrush, black currants, black raspberries, spring flowers, and a hint of dusty, loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied with sweet but abundant tannin, and beautiful purity, texture and equilibrium, the 2009 Rauzan Segla will provide enjoyable drinking over the next three decades. About the only thing controversial about the 2009 Rauzan Segla will be the label designed by Chanel’s artistic director, Karl Lagerfeld, for the estate’s 350th anniversary.
Marquis de Terme (Margaux 4th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£260	4	86-88
The dark plum/ruby-hued 2011 Marquis de Terme offers an attractive perfume of roasted herbs, loamy soil, and red and black currants. Well-made, clean and medium-bodied with a certain superficiality, this charming effort can be drunk over the next decade.
MonbousquetEP	2011	12×75cl	£280	5	91-93
Tiny yields of 31 hectoliters per hectare and a harvest that occurred between September 16-22 resulted in a full-throttle 2011 Monbousquet that hit 13.9% natural alcohol. The final blend was 70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. In both blind and non-blind tastings, this wine acquitted itself extremely well, placing well above many wines that cost two to three times the price. The 2011 reveals exotic notes of Asian spices, black fruits, toast, coffee bean and forest floor. Fleshy and medium to full-bodied, it is ideal for drinking over the next 10-12 years.
Gloria (St Julien)EP	2011	12×75cl	£225	5	89-91
This estate continues to go from strength to strength. Another sleeper of the vintage, the 2011 is excellent, possibly outstanding. Its dense ruby/purple color is followed by abundant aromas of cassis, forest floor, tobacco leaf and a vague hint of oak. Ripe for the vintage with excellent texture, a medium to full-bodied mouthfeel and a delicious, savory, broad appeal, this wine should drink well for at least a decade. Kudos to Jean-Louis Triaud, who seems to be doing better with this estate and his neighboring St.-Pierre than his beloved Bordeaux football team.
PalmerEP	2011	12×75cl	£1,635	5	92-94
Chateau Palmer’s 2011 yields of a minuscule 20 hectoliters per hectare were caused by the overall drought conditions, the extreme heat at the end of June, and some problems during flowering. Only 55% of the crop made it into Palmer, and given the lowest yields since 1961, the final blend of 55% Merlot and 45% Cabernet Sauvignon possesses huge tannins, but they are remarkably velvety and sweet. This opaque purple-colored, dense, concentrated, full-bodied wine will need time to totally form its personality. The harvest, which occurred between September 10-24, produced a big, boisterous, concentrated wine that should age for 25-30 or more years. (92-94+ points)
Alter EgoEP	2011	12×75cl	£399	3	88-90
More approachable (it tips the scales at 13.2% alcohol), the 2011 Alter Ego de Palmer is composed of 48% Merlot, 37% Cabernet Sauvignon and a whopping 15% Petit Verdot. Despite all of the latter varietal, the wine is velvety textured, pure and impressively endowed with a lovely fragrance. It should drink beautifully for 10-15+ years.
Desmirail (Margaux, 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£190	5	–
(Notes not available)
Cantenac Brown (Margaux 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£285	5	86-88
A masculine, structured, tannic effort, Cantenac Brown’s 2011 reveals a deep ruby/purple color, clean fruit on the attack, and hard tannins dominating the finish. If the wine’s structure softens, this will be a very good to excellent wine capable of lasting 15-20 years.
Rouget (Pomerol)EP	2011	12×75cl	£260	3	91-93
The deep ruby/plum/purple-tinged 2011 exhibits sandy, loamy soil, ripe cassis and kirsch scents. Surprisingly flamboyant and opulent for the vintage with good acidity, ripe tannins and a long, layered style, it should drink well for 15+ years. Older readers, who may remember the light, fruity, but pleasant and charming wines Rouget produced 25-30 years ago, will be shocked at how rich, full-throttle and intense current releases have become.
Fleur de Gay (Pomerol)EP	2011	12×75cl	£560	10	90-93
Like its stablemate La Croix de Gay, this once 7.5-acre vineyard has shrunk to only 5 acres after one hectare was sold to the Rothschilds’ Chateau l’Evangile. Consequently, the production of La Fleur de Gay is smaller than ever. The opaque ruby/purple-colored 2011 (100% Merlot) offers notes of mulberries, black raspberries and cassis, terrific fruit, espresso, mocha and coffee beans. Coming in at 13.5% natural alcohol, it should evolve for 12-15 years.(90-93+ points)
Echo de Lynch BagesEP	2011	12×75cl	£230	5	86-88
The Echo de Lynch Bages has the highest Merlot ever at 41% of the blend as the yields were higher and as Jean-Charles said, it just ended up that way. It has a precocious nose with espresso-tinged black fruit with a hint of brine that become more prominent with aeration. The palate is well balanced with rather brusque, chalky tannins. Very linear at the moment with a citric thread of acidity towards the finish. Fine. Neal Martin
Lacoste BorieEP	2011	12×75cl	£145	5	–
(Notes not available)
La Croix de GayEP	2011	12×75cl	£199	3	89-91
A sleeper of the vintage, the 2011 La Croix de Gay possesses a level of richness and intensity that may turn out to be more impressive than in their 2009 and 2010. Composed of 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc from their 12-acre vineyard (15 acres were recently sold to l’Evangile), this wine exhibits a dense blue/plum color as well as a sumptuous bouquet of black cherries, blueberries, charcoal and a touch of spring flowers. Medium to full-bodied, rich and powerful (13.5% alcohol), it has enough up-front precocious fruit, glycerin and charm to be drunk young or cellared for 10+ years.
Haut Bages LibéralEP	2011	12×75cl	£239	5	87-89
Smoky black currant and black cherry fruit aromas jump from the glass of this deep plum/purple-colored Pauillac. Soft, seductive tannins, medium body and excellent fruit as well as ripeness give this wine an endearing style with plenty of appeal. While there is not a lot of weight, there is an up-front forwardness that should provide attractive drinking over the next decade.
Malescot Saint Exupery (Margaux 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£355	10	91-93
This dense ruby/purple-colored, opulently-styled 2011 displays terrific fruit intensity, velvety, well-integrated tannins, surprising density and richness as well as decent acidity. Notes of ink, blueberry liqueur and creme de cassis are present in this medium to full-bodied, flamboyant Margaux. It should drink nicely for 15 or more years.
Durfort Vivens (Margaux 2nd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£245	5	83-85
A blend of 75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc from proprietor Gonzague Lurton, the 2011 Durfort Vivens is superficial, soft and round with a green, herbaceous streak running through the aromatics, mid-palate and finish. If this was an accurate tasting of this cuvee, it is certainly not one of the better classified growths of the vintage.
Lafon Rochet (St Estephe 4th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£255	10	85-87
This property must have had some hail damage, as the 2011 seems lighter than normal (and I tasted it on three separate occasions). The color is a healthy dense ruby/plum and there is an attractive, up-front bouquet, but the wine is medium-bodied, somewhat superficial, fresh and fruity. It is ideal for drinking in its first 7-8 years of life.
Prieure Lichine (Margaux 4th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£295	5	90-93
This sexy, delicious effort is atypically fat, fleshy and opulent for a 2011. While the acidity is present, it is lower than in many Medocs. The wine displays lots of blue, red and black fruits intertwined with a floral note that provides additional complexity. Front end-loaded with a mid-palate and finish that fill out nicely, this beautifully made wine is a true sleeper of the vintage. Drink it over the next 15+ years.
Angélus (St Emilion GCC B)EP	2011	12×75cl	£1,430	3	92-95
A great success for proprietor Hubert de Bouard, the 2011 Angelus came in at 14.5% natural alcohol (keep in mind that this is supposedly a challenging vintage – and it was), and 75% of the production made it into the top label. The remainder was declassified into a second label or was sold off in bulk. Yields were a low 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend was 60% Merlot and 40% Cabernet Franc. The color is a typical dense blue/purple, and the nose offers up wonderful notes of black raspberries, blueberries, flowers, vanillin and spice box. With authority, velvety tannin, good extract and glycerin, this rich, pure, beautifully textured St.-Emilion should drink well for 20+ years.
Rauzan Gassies (Margaux 2nd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£285	7	88-90
A strong effort from this somewhat forgotten Margaux classified growth, the 2011 Rauzan Gassies reveals a healthy dark plum/purple color in addition to a sweet nose of creosote, black currants and mossy, foresty notes, and a lush, medium-bodied, soft, round mid-palate as well as finish. The tannins are well-integrated, and the acidity is sufficient for freshness and definition. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.
Lynch Moussas (Pauillac 5th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£214	3	87-89
The 2011 Lynch Moussas is a very good effort from an estate that is making better and better wine, although it does not yet rank alongside the top Pauillacs. This mid-weight, ripe effort exhibits a deep ruby/plum/garnet color along with an attractive perfume of berry fruit, cedarwood and a touch of tobacco leaf, crisp acidity and moderately well-integrated tannin. Enjoy it over the next 10-12 years.
Calon SegurEP	2011	12×75cl	£420	5	92-94
The great Madame Denise Gasqueton, a Bordeaux icon whom I always visited early in the morning (8:15 a.m. for nearly 20 consecutive years), passed away on the first day of the 2011 harvest. The 2011 Calon-Segur is a fitting tribute to her extraordinary passion and love for this fabulous estate in the northern sector of St.-Estephe. A very strong effort (this property was untouched by the hail storm that swept through the area on September 1), it boasts an opaque purple color as well as surprisingly sweet tannin and abundant quantities of black cherry, black currant and dusty, loamy scents. Medium to full-bodied with beautifully integrated tannins and sensational purity and length, this super effort is a wonderful homage to the memory of Madame Gasqueton. Moreover, it is potentially one of the longest-lived wines of the vintage and should drink well for 25 or more years.
d’Armailhac (Pauillac 5th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£310	10	90-92
A strong effort from this property situated between Pontet-Canet and Mouton Rothschild, d’Armailhac’s blend of 57% Cabernet Sauvignon, 28% Merlot and the rest mostly Cabernet Franc and a touch of Petit Verdot was harvested between September 14-24. Its deep ruby color is accompanied by abundant aromas of black fruits, white chocolate, licorice and flowers. Medium-bodied, expressive, savory, pure and long with sweet tannins, it should drink well for 15+ years.
Meyney (St Estéphe)EP	2011	12×75cl	£205	5	88-90
A sleeper of the vintage, the 2011 Meyney (which escaped the hailstorm that devastated the northern Pauillac border and St.-Estephe boundary line on September 1) possesses an opaque ruby/purple color as well as a big, sweet bouquet of black olives, black currants, charcoal and earth. Dense and medium to full-bodied, this classic St.-Estephe offers good acidity and ripe tannin. It should drink well for 12-15 years. Old timers undoubtedly remember Meyney-s brilliant track record in the decades of the 1970s and 1980s, and it appears things are back on track at this St.-Estephe estate.
Bon Pasteur (Pomerol)EP	2011	12×75cl	£380	3	91-93
The flagship estate of Dany and Michel Rolland (by the way, Rolland’s autobiography has recently been published and it is highly recommended), Bon Pasteur’s 2011 is a strong effort in this difficult vintage. Yields were tiny, resulting in a concentrated, intense wine with a deep ruby/purple color as well as notes of mulberries, boysenberries, caramel, truffles and flowers. Medium to full-bodied with adequate acidity, velvety tannins and a plush, savory, expansive mouthfeel, it should drink well for 15 or more years.
GuiraudEP	2011	12×75cl	£310	4	88-90
The 2011 Guiraud is missing some of the vivacity and fruit intensity displayed by some of its peers this year, and its bouquet is quite resinous and missing the fruit concentration of others in this vintage. The palate shows more promise, with very fine tension and crisp acidity, although it is not quite matched by the finish, which feels slightly attenuated. I was hoping for more from Guiraud, which has produced some excellent wines in recent years, although both samples were consistent. Neal Martin
DassaultEP	2011	12×75cl	£198	5	88-90
Inky purple with abundant raspberry, blueberry, camphor and acacia flowers, this relatively evolved wine represents a lovely concoction of fruit and extract. Without any hard edges but with plenty of sweet tannin. Dassault’s medium-bodied 2011 is very seductive. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2025.
Pedesclaux (5th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£212	3	86-88
Elegant black currant, camphor and loamy soil notes intermixed with hints of ink and toasty oak are followed by a medium to full-bodied wine displaying beautiful purity. Fashioned from a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc that hit 13% natural alcohol, this 2011 may turn out to be better than the 2009 and 2010. Drink it over the next 15 years. One of the great underachievers of all times, this classified growth was purchased by Jackie Lorenzetti in 2009, and Emmanuel Cruse (proprietor of d’Issan) has been overseeing the vinification and upbringing of the wine. The result is that Pedesclaux is beginning to make qualitative noises for the first time in my 30+ year career.
Marquis d’Alesme (3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£215	5	85-87
A final blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 12% Petit Verdot has resulted in the finest wine Marquis d-Alesme Becker has made in many years. Although not outstanding, it is a good start. A deep plum/ruby/purple hue is followed by notes of black currants, spring flowers, licorice and loamy soil. This soft, round, pleasing 2011 can be enjoyed over the next decade. A somewhat forgotten Margaux classified growth, this 37-acre vineyard is under new management with the brilliant Claude Gros installed as the consulting oenologist.
Pontet Canet F EP	2011	12×75cl	£715	4	93-95
Once again proprietor Alfred Tesseron has produced a wine of first-growth potential. One of the superstars of the vintage, Pontet-Canet’s 2011 exhibits an opaque purple color and a glorious bouquet of incense, subtle toast and copious quantities of creme de cassis. There is a floral underpinning, decent acidity and ripe tannin to this full-bodied effort. Big, rich, round and generously endowed, it should drink well for 20-25+ years.
Pape Clement Rouge (Pessac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£595	4	92-94
I had the 2011 Pape Clement on four separate occasions and there was a slight sample variation, but this seems to be a fair estimate of its potential. A blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 45% Merlot and the rest tiny proportions of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot, the 2011 offers notes of lead pencil shavings, charcoal, barbecue meat, black cherries, black currants and plum sauce. This is a medium to full-bodied, dense as well as strikingly elegant and precise wine. The purity, palate presence and potentially complex aromatics always stand out in a Pape Clement. This example should drink well for 15-24 years. This great terroir, which is basically within a suburb on the southern outskirts of Bordeaux only 2-3 miles from Haut Brion and La Mission Haut Brion, is just over 100 acres.
Fombrauge (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£160	5	87-89
Composed of 85% Merlot, 14% Cabernet Franc and a tiny dollop of Cabernet Sauvignon, the 2011 is a spicy, straightforward, deep plum/ruby/purple-colored effort displaying powerful tannins as well as a slight austerity. There is also plenty of creamy, rich blueberry and black raspberry fruit intermixed with hints of crushed rocks and bay leaves. It should be close to full maturity in 3-4 years and last for 12-15. Owned by Bordeaux visionary/entrepreneur deluxe, Bernard Magrez, this is still the largest vineyard in St.-Emilion.
Belgrave (5th Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£175	5	–
(Notes not available)
Giscours (Margaux 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£309	5	88-90
The powerful, concentrated 2011 Giscours is not terribly dissimilar from their 2005. Composed of two-thirds Cabernet Sauvignon and one-third Merlot, it exhibits a deep ruby/purple color along with scents of charcoal, underbrush, forest floor, licorice, black currants and a hint of wood smoke. This rich, medium to full-bodied, dense effort should be consumed over the next 10-15 years.
Laforge (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£210	10	90-93
This 2,500-case blend from three separate St.-Emilion terroirs is composed of 92% Merlot and 8% Cabernet Franc. Copious aromas of graphite, sweet black currant and black cherry fruit intermixed with notions of underbrush, forest floor, camphor and Asian spice emerge from this complex, medium to full-bodied 2011. Loaded with color, fruit and surprisingly silky extract, it should drink well for 10+ years.
Fugue de NéninEP	2011	12×75cl	£159	3	87-89
The Fugue de Nénin is a blend of 88% Merlot and 12% Cabernet Franc. It has a light bouquet with floral raspberry and citrus fruit. The palate is smooth and harmonious on the entry with a nice savoury touch lent by the Cabernet Franc. It has pert acidity that lends it a fine crisp, focused finish that is better than recent vintages. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
Phélan Ségur (Saint Estéphe)EP	2011	12×75cl	£225	10	88-91
A sleeper of the vintage, this is a beautiful follow-up, in a much more challenging vintage, to their exceptional 2009. Deep plum/purple-hued with a nose of mulberries, black currants and cassis, the wine is dense, medium-bodied, ripe for a 2011, with good underlying acidity and a seriously endowed, layered texture. The tannins are present, but well-integrated and ripe. Drink it over the next 10-12 years.
PotensacEP	2011	12×75cl	£139	5	87-89
A sleeper of the vintage, this blend of 52% Merlot, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon and 14% Cabernet Franc exhibits outstanding ripeness (13.5% alcohol) as well as a deep ruby/purple color and excellent notes of crushed rocks, red and black currants, licorice and earth. Supple-textured, medium-bodied and nicely concentrated, it should provide pleasure over the next 7-10 years.
La Tour CarnetEP	2011	12×75cl	£209	3	89-92
An excellent wine from proprietor Bernard Magrez, this blend of 57% Merlot, 39% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to a big, sweet nose of black cherries, black currants, graphite and smoky oak. Medium-bodied with excellent density and fruit, good acidity and silky tannins, this striking 2011 should drink well for 15 or more years. La Tour Carnet is usually priced very fairly.
Puygueraud (Cotes de Francs)EP	2011	12×75cl	£85	5	87-90
Another strong effort from Puygueraud (the birthplace of the Thienpont family), the 2011 was fashioned from modest yields of 35 hectoliters per hectare, and the final blend of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Malbec came in at 14.5% natural alcohol. The wine’s dense blue/purple color is accompanied by copious aromas of blueberries, blackberries, charcoal and graphite. Clearly performing well above its modest pedigree, this sleeper of the vintage possesses medium to full body, beautifully pure fruit, and a decade’s worth of drinkability.
Le Prieure (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£239	10	90-92
This major sleeper of the vintage is one of the finest wines I have ever tasted from this estate, which is beautifully located not far from Troplong-Mondot and La Couspaude. Denser, richer and more concentrated than most vintages, the 2011 displays a deep ruby/purple color in addition to scents of cassis, kirsch, licorice and roasted herbs. Ripe and fruity with hints of charcoal and graphite, this impressive effort should drink well for 10-12 years.
Lascombes (Margaux 2nd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£450	2	91-93
A blend of 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot that tips the scales at 14% natural alcohol, the 2011 Lascombes is another knock-out effort. (Michel Rolland is the consultant.) Made in a more modern style with plenty of toasty oak intermixed with blueberry and black currant fruit as well as hints of licorice and camphor, the wine-s textured lushness on the mid-palate, sweet, well-integrated tannins and full-throttle finish result in an impressive Margaux to drink over the next 15 years.
d’Issan (Margaux 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£330	5	91-93
Only 57% of the production made it into the 2011 d’Issan, which tips the scales at a lofty 13.2% natural alcohol. A blend of 69% Cabernet Sauvignon and 31% Merlot, it possesses a dark ruby/purple color as well as a classic Margaux perfume of sweet blueberries, black currants, spring flowers and licorice. Ripe and deep with impressive intensity, it is one of the stars of the 2011 vintage. The wine’s silky tannins, fresh acids and stunning length suggest it will drink well for 15-20 years. Kudos to proprietor Emmanuel Cruse.
La Vieille Cure (Fronsac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£115	5	90-92
The 2011 (mostly Merlot) struts its stuff with a deep ruby/purple color in addition to lots of creme de cassis, mocha and floral notes. Full-bodied with a juicy, opulent personality, impressive purity, a broad, expansive texture, sweet tannin, and enough acidity for definition and vibrancy in the finish, it should drink well for 10-12+ years. The 2011 is a sleeper of the vintage. La Vieille Cure may well be the reference point for Fronsac given its performances over the last decade. Consistently one of the top two or three wines of the appellation.
De Pressac (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£145	4	86-88
The 2011 is one of the better examples I have seen from this large St.-Emilion estate. Composed of 70% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon, it exhibits a deep plum/purple color along with sweet blueberry and black raspberry fruit intermixed with cedar, toasty oak and damp earth. With medium body, good purity, decent acidity, ripe tannin and a heady finish, it should drink well for 10-12+ years.
Blanc de Lynch BagesEP	2011	12×75cl	£230	3	90-92
The Blanc de Lynch Bages is a blend of 66% Sauvignon Blanc, 12% Semillon and 22% Muscadelle raised in 50% new oak. It has a well-defined bouquet with lime, green apple, chalk dust and a touch of white peach. The palate is well balanced on the entry with the oak nicely assimilated, leading to a poised finish that shows nice weight and persistency. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
Clos Marsalette (Pessac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£135	10	89-91
This seductive, open-knit, lush, attractive Pessac-Leognan offers lots of tobacco leaf, sweet kirsch and assorted berry fruit notes in its delicious, medium-bodied, silky, round, complex and hedonistic personality. Enjoy it over the next 5-6 years.
Clos Marsalette (Blanc, Pessac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£125	5	90-93
A plump style, offering a hint of blanched almond that’s quickly followed by grapefruit oil, white peach and jicama notes, with a straw-tinged finish. James Molesworth, Wine Spectator
La Gaffeliere (St Emilion GCC B)EP	2011	12×75cl	£380	3	90-93
One of the oldest family-owned vineyards in St.-Emilion, La Gaffeliere has been owned by the same family since the 1400s. The 2011 performed slightly differently in multiple tastings, but overall, it appears to be an outstanding, elegant, restrained, somewhat austere, but impressively built wine. The final blend of 90% Merlot and 10% Cabernet Franc produced nearly 5,000 cases from their 42+ acre vineyard. The wine exhibits lots of earthy, balsam, resiny notes interwoven with red and black currants, cedar and underbrush. This elegant, dense, medium to full-bodied St.-Emilion should drink nicely for 15-20 years.
Domaine de Chevalier Blanc (Pessac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£615	2	93-95
A blend of 85% Sauvignon Bland and 15% Semillon, the Domaine de Chevalier Blanc has a very taut bouquet with scents of granite, lemon rind and a touch of white peach and chalk dust. Great focus and intensity although it takes time to unwind. The palate is medium-bodied with a lovely elegant white peach and a drop of wild honey, very good acidity and a caressing, vanilla-tinged finish that shows great length. This is better than the red this year. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
Leoville Lascases F	1986	12×75cl	£2,900	1	99
The late Michel Delon always thought that this was the greatest vintage he had produced. We often tasted it side by side with the 1982, because I always preferred the latter vintage. Of course, the two vintages are quite different in style, with the 1986 a monument to classicism, with great tannin, extraordinary delineation, and a huge, full-bodied nose of sweet, ripe cassis fruit intermixed with vanilla, melon, fruitcake, and a multitude of spices. The wine has always been phenomenally concentrated, yet wonderfully fresh and vigorous. The wine still seems young, yet it is hard to believe it is not close to full maturity. It is a great example of Leoville Las Cases, and another compelling reason to take a serious look at the top Cabernet Sauvignon-based Medocs of 1986. Anticipated maturity: 2005-2035. Last tasted, 9/02.
Latour F	1982	12×75cl	£17,500	1	100
Always somewhat atypical (which I suspect will be the case with the more modern day 2003), the 1982 Latour has been the most opulent, flamboyant, and precocious of the northern Medocs, especially the St.-Juliens, Pauillacs, and St.-Estephes. It hasn’t changed much over the last 10-15 years, revealing sweet tannins as well as extraordinarily decadent, even extravagant levels of fruit, glycerin, and body. It is an amazing wine, and on several occasions, I have actually picked it as a right bank Pomerol because of the lushness and succulence of the cedary, blackberry, black currant fruit. This vintage has always tasted great, even in its youth, and revealed a precociousness that one does not associate with this Chateau. However, the 1982 is still evolving at a glacial pace. The concentration remains remarkable, and the wine is a full-bodied, exuberant, rich, classic Pauillac in its aromatic and flavor profiles. It’s just juiced up (similar to an athlete on steroids) and is all the better for it. This remarkable effort will last as long as the 1982 Mouton, but it has always been more approachable and decadently fruity. Drink it now, in 20 years, and in 50 years! Don’t miss it if you are a wine lover. Release price: ($350.00/case)
La Mission Haut Brion F	2008	12×75cl	£1,650	1	94
This glorious offering possesses sweet tobacco leaf, black currant, mocha, white chocolate, scorched earth and burning ember-like characteristics. Full-bodied, stunningly rich and exceptionally well-endowed, this blend of 51% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot and 6% Cabernet Franc demands 2-3 years of additional bottle age. It should age gracefully for 35-40 years.
Langoa BartonEP	2011	12×75cl	£325	4	86-88
It is difficult to find any sweet fruit in this firmly structured, backward, austere, astringently tannic, dry 2011. The color is a healthy dense ruby/purple and the wine is earthy, but charmless at present. This will be more interesting to taste once it has been bottled.
La Mission Haut Brion F	2005	12×75cl	£3,800	1	97
There are slightly more than 5,000 cases of the 2005 La Mission-Haut-Brion, a blend of 69% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Sauvignon, and a touch of Cabernet Franc. While there is little difference between La Mission and Haut-Brion’s terroirs (their vineyards are only separated by a two-lane road), La Mission possesses more fat, texture, and intensity. An enormously endowed wine with huge tannin and structure, the 2005 offers a quintessential Graves bouquet of burning embers, charcoal, blackberries, truffles, black currants, and a meaty character. Reminiscent of the 1989, with more structure as well as a longer window of drinkability, the 2005 may be a modern day, improved version of a vintage such as 1955, which was well-endowed, very tannic, and took a long time to come around. While fabulously full-bodied and unctuous, the 2005 will not provide much charm in its youth. It needs 8-10 years of cellaring, and should age effortlessly for 30-40 years.
La Mission Haut Brion F	1982	12×75cl	£8,500	1	100
The greatest La Mission Haut Brion made between the 1975 and 1989, the 1982 is, stylistically, a dead-ringer for the ethereal 1959. One of the most massive wines of the vintage, it remains an adolescent in terms of evolution, but it can be drunk with great pleasure if it is decanted 2-3 hours in advance. A thick, unctuously-textured wine with massive richness as well as abundant notes of black fruits, truffles, creosote, scorched earth, smoke, and camphor, a colossal mouthfeel, a layered texture, incredible depth of fruit and glycerin, and copious, but well-integrated tannins that are largely concealed by the incredible amount of fruit. An old school La Mission, it is a tour de force that should continue to age effortlessly for another 40+ years. A monumental wine! Release price: ($245.00/case)
Eglise Clinet	1995	12×75cl	£2,000	1	96
One of the vintage’s most awesome wines, L’Eglise-Clinet’s 1995 has been fabulous from both cask and bottle. The color is opaque purple. The wine is closed aromatically, but it does offer a concoction of black raspberries, kirsch, smoke, cherries, and truffles. Full-bodied and rich, with high tannin, but profound levels of fruit and richness, this dense, exceptionally well-delineated, layered, multidimensional L’Eglise-Clinet only hints at its ultimate potential. This looks to be a legend in the making. I could not get over the extraordinary texture of this wine in the mouth. Intensity and richness without heaviness – a tour de force in winemaking! Anticipated maturity: 2008-2030.
Malartic Lagraviére (Pessac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£285	2	87-88
The structured, austere 2011 Malartic Lagraviere was produced from small yields (32 hectoliters per hectare) and the final blend was 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 37% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Slightly tannic, rigid and spicy, it exhibits notes of black currants, bay leaf and loamy soil. In the mouth, the wine is mid-weight with moderate body and a structured mouthfeel.
Dame de MontroseEP	2011	12×75cl	£235	9	87-90
The 2011 La Dame de Montrose also benefitted from a strict selection as well as top-notch winemaking. Composed of 72% Merlot and 28% Cabernet Sauvignon, it is a spicy, ripe 2011 with lots of fat as well as abundant notes of blueberries and black currants in addition to a sexy, open-knit, mid-weight personality. Drink this seductive effort over the next decade. The harvest at Montrose was held between September 2-27, and only a tiny parcel in the southern sector of the vineyard was touched by the hail storm that swept through the Pauillac / St.-Estephe border on September 1.
Canon la GaffeliéreEP	2011	12×75cl	£415	6	90-92
From the flagship estate of visionary Stephan von Neipperg, I noticed some sample variations on the four occasions I had this wine. Cropped at 33 hectoliters per hectare with a final blend of 60% Merlot, 32% Cabernet Franc and 8% Cabernet Sauvignon, this is generally a fruit-forward style of wine with an exotic, perfumed personality. The 2011 reveals a soft, sexy style with lots of Christmas fruitcake notes intermixed with cedarwood, spice box, black currants and kirsch. Fleshy and fat with impressive purity, texture and length, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-14 years.
CamensacEP	2011	12×75cl	£170	10	84-86
A solid, charmless but competent wine, the dark plum/ruby-colored 2011 Camensac reveals sweet, herbal, red and black currant fruit, medium body and a lightly tannic finish.
Domaine de Chevalier (Pessac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£315	3	87-89
A very good effort from this estate located in the southern sector of Pessac-Leognan, the 2011 Domaine de Chevalier is a blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and the rest Petit Verdot that achieved 13% natural alcohol. It offers medium body, attractive sweet red and black currant fruit, a round, supple texture, and hints of roasted herbs and damp earth. Drink this pretty, elegant effort during its first 10-15 years of life.
Haut BaillyEP	2011	12×75cl	£560	5	91-93
While the elegant, stylish 2011 Haut-Bailly does not possess the density and concentration of the three vintages that preceded it, this is still outstanding wine as well as a tribute to the impeccable work done by proprietor Robert Wilmers and his manager, Veronique Sanders. Classic red and black currant aromas interspersed with notions of wet stones/crushed rocks, tobacco leaf and spice box are followed by a medium-bodied, well-balanced, impressively pure wine built on finesse and understatement. This beauty is capable of drinking well young or over the next 15+ years.
Fleur CardinaleEP	2011	12×75cl	£220	3	92-94
Another top-notch success, the 2011 (70% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) hit 15% natural alcohol. Yields were a low 30 hectoliters per hectare, and the harvest occurred quite late. The result is a dense purple-colored wine with a stunning bouquet of blackberry jam, graphite, charcoal and blueberries. With superb density and purity as well as a multidimensional mouthfeel, this intense St.-Emilion is a sleeper of the vintage, although consumers are catching on to the exquisite quality emerging from La Fleur Cardinale. The 2011 should drink well for 15+ years. This property has been on a qualitative hot streak since it was acquired by the Decoster family nearly a decade ago. Consultants are the impressive Jean-Philippe Fort (from Michel Rolland’s laboratory) and Jean-Luc Thunevin.
La Parde de Haut BaillyEP	2011	12×75cl	£170	2	87-89
The La Parde de Haut-Bailly represents 40% of the crop and is a blend of 65% Merlot and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon (Merlot more than usual as the yields were higher.) It has a very fine, quite minerally bouquet with good delineation, a hint of chalk and graphite in the background. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chewy tannins, a little brusque and structured although that will soften by the time of bottling. The finish shows more fleshiness and it has good length. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
Lagrange (St Julien 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£285	4	85-87
Extracted and oaky with dry, astringent tannins, the 2011 Lagrange is disjointed and not totally harmonious at present.
La Mission Haut Brion F EP	2011	12×75cl	£2,250	3	93-95
The production of the 2011 La Mission-Haut-Brion (55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 34% Merlot and 11% Cabernet Franc) was a tiny 4,100 cases, compared to 6,000 cases in 2009 and 5,100 cases in 2010. The 2011 is a big, sexy, smoky, classic La Mission displaying lots of road tar, graphite, barbecue, meats, mulberry, black currant and blueberry notes. It is full-bodied with sweet tannin as well as an expansive, fleshy style. The harvest was late in 2011 despite the fact that this micro-climate is one of the warmest and most precocious in all of Bordeaux since it is essentially in the city of Bordeaux. This brilliant wine, one of the vintage-s superstars, should drink reasonably well in 3-4 years and keep for 25 or more. I can-t say enough good things about the job Jean-Philippe Delmas has done after taking over for his well-known father at La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion. As long-time readers know, I am an addict for both of these wines.
Soutard (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£230	2	88-90
A big, backstrapping, masculine style of wine, the 2011 Soutard exhibits a healthy blue/purple color along with notes of damp earth, blackberries, plums and hints of toasty oak, forest floor and underbrush. This attractive, deep, chewy St.-Emilion possesses moderately high tannins and good acidity. It will require 3-5 years of cellaring after its release, and should keep for two decades.
Ferriére (Margaux 3rd Growth)EP	2011	12×75cl	£210	10	90-92
A blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc and aged in 35% new oak, the Ferriere has a very pure bouquet that is so elegant and refined. The palate is very well balanced with a pleasant fleshy entry. It has an effervescent red fruit profile with hints of orange zest towards the bright, perky finish. I hope it is as delicious as this after bottling. Tasted April 2012. Neal Martin
La Pointe (Pomerol)EP	2011	12×75cl	£210	1	90-92
The La Pointe 2011 has a focused bouquet with fresh dark berry fruit that is totally in tune with the new oak. There is a nice touch of oyster shell developing with time. The palate is succulent and supple on the entry with lifted dark berries, fine minerality and quite a dense finish that does not exhibit any of the greenness that an old La Pointe would have in such a vintage. Very fine from Eric Monnoret and his team. Tasted April 2012
Du TertreEP	2011	12×75cl	£220	10	85-87
This blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Cabernet Franc, 10% Merlot and 10% Petit Verdot is somewhat closed, with high acidity and noticeable austerity. The color is a healthy dark ruby/purple and the wine exhibits notes of damp earth, tobacco leaf, sweet and sour cherries and loamy soil undertones. Drink it over the next decade.
Haut Brion F EP	2011	12×75cl	£3,700	2	92-95
Like its stablemate La Mission-Haut-Brion, Haut-Brion’s 2011 production was small, only 7,600 cases, which is nearly 3,000 fewer cases than in 2009. A blend of 46% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 19% Cabernet Franc, it is interesting to taste the 2011 Haut-Brion next to the more open-knit, seductive 2011 La Mission Haut-Brion. The former wine is more firm, backward and earthy with a more formidably structured style. Undeniably elegant, distinctive and original, it exhibits notes of mulberries, plums, blueberries and raspberries. Jean-Philippe Delmas told me that in many ways the 2011 reminds him of the 2008 from an aromatic and structural profile. There is plenty of tannin, and the 2011 has 25-30 years of aging potential. It may be more reminiscent of a vintage such as 1988, but it is better made as well as being the product of a far stricter selection process.
Rayne VigneauEP	2011	12×75cl	£280	5	93-95
The Rayne-Vigneau has a seductive nose with tropical fruit, vanilla and coconut aromas that seek to entrance from first acquaintance. At the moment, the oak is noticeable but it should assimilate by the time of bottling. The palate is very precise with fine minerality and tension on the entry. It has outstanding focus and linearity before fanning out with a peacock’s tail of quince and marmalade on the long, viscous finish. This is an excellent wine that gets better and better in the glass. Drink 2014-2035. Neal Martin
Rol ValentinEP	2011	12×75cl	£225	5	89-91
I experienced serious sample variation with the 2011 Rol Valentin and the following notes represent a synthesis of the better examples I tasted. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by notes of black raspberries, black currants, graphite and licorice. The wine possesses lots of intensity, a rustic but medium to full-bodied mouthfeel, and a long finish. It should drink well for 15 or more years.
Chantegrive Cuvée Caroline (Blanc)EP	2011	12×75cl	£115	10	–
(Notes not available)
CoutetEP	2011	12×75cl	£435	2	94-96
To be honest, I expected the 2011 Coutet to come rushing out of the blocks like Doisy-Daene; however it is not playing that game. Instead, it is almost Zen-like upon first acquaintance before revealing its life-affirming mineral aromas and traces of apricot and white peach that remain very subtle and yet tangibly there. The palate is medium-bodied with exceptional balance. There is a real sense of synergy between component parts; nothing out of place, everything focused and succinctly composed, with its trademark sense of thrilling tension on the finish. This is sheer class and a classic Coutet to add to the canon of great recent vintages. Drink 2014-2035. Neal Martin
CantemerleEP	2011	12×75cl	£200	15	88-90
This is a traditional, authentic example of Cantemerle’s vineyard as well as its general winemaking style. Elegant and mid-weight with a finesse-filled style, the 2011 exhibits a dark ruby hue with purple nuances in addition to a bouquet of mulberries, cranberries and black cherries intermixed with flowers and forest floor. Medium-bodied and soft as well as crunchy and vibrant, it can be enjoyed over the next 10-12 years.
SiranEP	2011	12×75cl	£179	5	87-89
A potential sleeper of the vintage, the attractive, elegant, fruit-driven 2011 Siran offers up scents of licorice, camphor and black as well as red currants. It is medium-bodied and endearing, with soft tannins and good acidity in an attractive, up-front style. Enjoy it over the next decade.
Broustet (Barsac)EP	2011	12×75cl	£142	2	87-89
The 2011 Broustet is rather subdued on the nose with light honey and grapefruit aromas. The palate is medium-bodied with a crisp, orange rind-tinged entry and a harmonious mid-palate. It is very taut, like many Barsacs in 2011, but there is impressive focus and tension, while the finish offers satisfying length and minerality. Drink 2013-2025. Neal Martin
Péby Faugéres (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£635	2	92-94
The estate’s luxury cuvee, the 2011 Peby Faugeres comes from the oldest (averaging 45 years) sector of the vineyard and is essentially 100% Merlot. Yields were 26 hectoliters per hectare and the fruit was harvested at the end of September. The wine is packaged in a spectacularly beautiful engraved glass bottle. Opaque purple in color, the 2011 is one of the most intense, full and rich wines of the vintage. Notes of ink, graphite, blueberries, black raspberries, toasty oak, white chocolate and mocha are all present in this full-throttle, expansive, savory St.-Emilion. It should drink well for two decades or more. One of the up-and-coming stars of St.-Emilion, Faugeres is owned by Swiss entrepreneur, Silvio Benz (also the owner of the Lalique crystal company).(92-94+ points)
CaillouEP	2011	12×75cl	£195	5	90-92
The 2011 Caillou has a light nose of lime cordial and freshly cut Satsumas, and it grows in stature with aeration to reveal subtle tropical notes. The palate is medium-bodied with a viscous entry that is cut through by a silver thread of acidity, rendering the residual sugar barely perceptible. It is extremely taut and focused with a very precise finish. This Barsac second growth has good potential and should drink well over twenty years. Drink 2013-2030. Neal Martin
Croizet BagesEP	2011	12×75cl	£215	5	86-88
A healthy dense ruby/purple color is followed by straightforward, plump, black and red currant, licorice, tobacco leaf and spice box characteristics. Medium-bodied and soft, this 2011 is best consumed in its first ten years of life.
La Mission Haut Brion BlancEP	2011	12×75cl	£6,250	3	95-98
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
FonplegadeEP	2011	12×75cl	£225	10	92-94
Since this estate was acquired by the Adams family of America, who hired consulting oenologist Michel Rolland, the quality has soared. The 2011 Fonplegade is another tour de force. It boasts an inky/blue/purple colour in addition to copious notes of charcoal, camphor, blackberries, blueberries and spring flowers. Opulent, fleshy, deep and impressively built, it will be drinkable in 3-4 years or can be cellared for two decades or more. Kudos to Fonplegade!
Haut Brion BlancEP	2011	12×75cl	£6,250	2	96-98
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Clarence Haut BrionEP	2011	12×75cl	£740	10	89-91
The 2011 Le Clarence de Haut-Brion is more mineral-based than La Mission’s second wine, La Chapelle. The Clarence de Haut-Brion possesses a deep ruby/purple color along with copious notes of black cherries and black currants intermixed with hints of crushed rocks and wet gravel. It’s easy to tell it is from the Haut-Brion vineyard. Drink it over the next 10-15 years.
La Chapelle de la Mission Haut BrionEP	2011	12×75cl	£495	10	90-92
The second wine is also a great success, revealing much of the character of its bigger brother, although not the weight or richness. The open-knit, plush, opulent, fresh, lively 2011 La Chapelle de la Mission is ideal for drinking in its first 10-15 years of life. I can-t say enough good things about the job Jean-Philippe Delmas has done after taking over for his well-known father at La Mission-Haut-Brion and Haut-Brion. As long-time readers know, I am an addict for both of these wines.
Faugéres (St Emilion GC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£199	4	91-93
The impressively endowed 2011 Faugeres is a big wine for the vintage, boasting an opaque ruby/purple color as well as notes of creosote, black currants, blueberries, coffee beans and toasty oak. This modern-styled, full-bodied, pure, textured, long St.-Emilion’s zesty acidity gives freshness and vibrancy to this big wine. It tips the scales at 14% natural alcohol, and is a blend of 85% Merlot with the rest primarily Cabernet Franc and a tiny bit of Cabernet Sauvignon. It should evolve for 15-20 years. One of the up-and-coming stars of St.-Emilion, Faugeres is owned by Swiss entrepreneur, Silvio Benz (also the owner of the Lalique crystal company).
Grand Mayne (St Emilion GCC)EP	2011	12×75cl	£230	5	90-92
A big time sleeper of the vintage from one of my favorite go-to estates in St.-Emilion, Grand-Mayne’s 2011 reveals a dense blue/purple color in addition to abundant aromas of raspberries, black currants, licorice and toasty oak. With moderate, sweet, well-integrated tannin, decent acidity and a heady, long finish, it can be drunk over the next 10-15 years. I do not know what the natural alcohol is, but I suspect it’s pushing 14% plus.
LabegorceEP	2011	12×75cl	£145	10	88-90
Made from a blend of 53% Cabernet Sauvignon, 36% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that hit 14% natural alcohol, the excellent 2011 is a sleeper of the vintage. Textured, with soft tannins, lots of black currant and black cherry fruit, surprising density and a velvety finish, it should drink well for a decade or more. This property has come on fabulously well now that well-known oenologist Claude Gros is the consultant.
Montrose F EP	2011	12×75cl	£740	5	91-93
A strong effort, the 2011 Montrose exhibits a dense ruby/purple color in addition to abundant black currant and boysenberry fruit notes intermixed with white chocolate, damp earth, truffle and camphor. Medium to full-bodied with sweet tannin and impressive concentration, this blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 22% Merlot, 12% Cabernet Franc and 4% Petit Verdot hit nearly 13% natural alcohol (relatively high in Bordeaux, but lower than the 13.2% in 2009 and 13.8% in 2010). The 2011 should drink well for 15 or more years. The harvest at Montrose was held between September 2-27, and only a tiny parcel in the southern sector of the vineyard was touched by the hail storm that swept through the Pauillac / St.-Estephe border on September 1.
ClimensEP	2011	12×75cl	£725	5	95-97
Tasting through individual lots, I was struck by their purity and tautness, developing engaging floral aromas with aeration, with occasional notes of yellow plum and ginger. On the palate, once again there is a common theme of purity and crisp acidity, although they alternated between a lighter and a more mellifluous style. One or two significant lots demonstrated enticing spicy notes that define great Climens. There is certainly enormous potential here, one that beckons an intense, vivacious Barsac underpinned by freshness and focus. The 2011 was picked over five tries in two phases, the first from September 8 to the 21st representing a whopping 82% of the harvest over two tries; the second from September 26 until the 28th comprising over three smaller tries. Although the weather played a critical factor, Berenice Lurton attributed the success of her wine to her limestone soils. Neal Martin

Burgundy
					hover or click for more
Rousseau Chambertin	1990	1×75cl	£1,150	1	93
Burghound: Perfumed and now fully mature aromas offering a stunningly complex mélange of spice, leather, earth and dark fruits introduce very rich and forward medium weight flavors of exceptional length. While there is still some tannic structure in evidence but the fruit provides more than adequate balance and there is better than average acidity in the context of the vintage as well though just a hint of it now sticks out on the finish. A lovely wine in its own right that is now drinking well though it can certainly be held with confidence. Multiple, and consistent, notes.
Comtes Lafon Montrachet	2008	1×75cl	£650	6	93-96
The nose is troubled from the very late malo and thus quite difficult to fairly judge but the broad-shouldered and overtly muscular flavors possess serious power and imposing weight while carrying seemingly buckets of dry extract that really coat and stain the palate on the explosive and hugely long finish. It’s clear that this is much, much less evolved than the other wines in the range and I suspect that it will develop equally slowly in bottle too. Allen Meadows, Burghound
DRC Montrachet	2008	1×75cl	£2,450	1	97
An exceptionally ripe and overtly exotic nose of genuinely mind-boggling complexity displays botrytis notes, pineapple, apricot, mango, spice, white peach and citrus aromas. The broad-shouldered and extremely concentrated flavors are plush and opulent before culminating in an incredibly intense finish that is given lift and shape by the very firm acid spine. This is a massive Montrachet with superb power and the balance and mid-palate concentration will permit it to live for decades. A knockout. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Louis Carillon Bienvenues Batard Montrachet	2005	1×75cl	£300	2	94
A distinctly different aromatic profile of slightly mentholated notes accompanied by honeysuckle, citrus and white rose petal aromas trimmed in a deft touch of wood toast that merge into rich, full and unusually powerful broad-shouldered flavors that are also on the understated side despite the size and weight. This is a seriously impressive effort and one of the stars of the vintage. Don’t miss it! Allen Meadows, Burghound
Rousseau Gevrey Chambertin Clos Saint Jacques	2008	1×75cl	£180	4	93
Burghound: A discreet touch of wood frames an aromatically fresh, ultra elegant, spicy and bright nose of intense pure pinot fruit, cherry and raspberry notes where both the spice and earth notes continue onto the delicious, rich and full-bodied flavors built on a base of concentrated minerality and stunning length. This is one classy wine that offers impeccable balance and a Zen-like poise.
Meo-Camuzet Vosne Romanee les Brulees	1996	1×75cl	£245	6	92
The bottle in the tasting was not completely clean on the nose so the note that follows is substituted from another recent example. An airy, spicy, lacy and still very fresh nose reveals almost no secondary development slides into linear and direct flavors that display much better fruit/acid/tannin balance than do many ‘96s culminate in a clean, bright and vibrant finish. I like the solid sense of mid-palate concentration and as such, there is no "hole in the middle" the way some of the less concentrated ‘96s carry themselves. A lovely if not truly brilliant effort. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Meo-Camuzet Clos Vougeot	2005	1×75cl	£240	4	94
A very ripe black cherry, pepper and crushed herb nose is trimmed in discreet wood spice that can also be found on the rich to the point of opulent broad-scaled flavors that are strikingly concentrated and oozing with dry extract yet retain a fine sense of precision on the explosively long finish. Méo has been generally looking for a bit more weight and punch with this wine and over the last few vintages and he certainly has achieved it here without sacrificing the elegance that has always characterized the Méo Clos de Vougeot. This most recent bottle seems even slightly more promising than I originally thought and I have upgraded it by one point as well as extended the expected initial drinking window. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Ponsot Clos De La Roche	2007	6×75cl	£750	3	94
A magnificently complex nose offers up a mix of both high and medium-toned aromas of mostly red berries but with a panoply of background nuances including leather, tea, underbrush, spice hints, jerky and smoke, most of which transfer to the textured, intense and precise full-bodied flavors that are, somewhat surprisingly, not quite as dense as those of the Clos St. Denis but actually finer (normally it’s the reverse), all wrapped in a hugely long and explosive finish that completely coats the palate with extract, indeed so much of it that this does not seem all that structured yet it will clearly need at least 15 years to be at its best. Note that there was a hair of backend dryness in evidence that I am attributing to the recent bottling. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Faiveley J, Mazis Chambertin	2007	6×75cl	£470	4	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Prieur J, Clos Vougeot	2006	6×75cl	£310	5	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Bouchard Pere & Fils Chambertin	2009	6×75cl	£850	2	–
(Notes not available)
Faiveley J, Corton Clos Cortons	2008	6×75cl	£380	8	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Ponsot Chambertin Clos de Beze	2009	6×75cl	£2,555	2	95
An exuberantly spicy nose also features ripe red berry liqueur and earth nuances that are also reflected by the detailed, complex and mineral-suffused big-bodied flavors that possess fine power and real muscle on the focused, balanced, explosive and exceptionally persistent finish. This is really a lovely but extremely firm effort with impeccably well-integrated tannins. Considerable patience required. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Marquis d’Angerville Volnay Champans	2009	6×75cl	£595	6	93-95
An incredibly complex, fresh and seductively perfumed nose offers up a wonderfully layered set of ripe red berry fruit, cassis, mineral and spice aromas that introduce sappy and lacy yet serious middle weight flavors that possess both excellent power and fine volume, all wrapped in a magnificently long finish. The tannins are quite firm yet they’re also well-integrated as the abundant dry extract pushes them to the background. In a word, sensational. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Comte de Vogue Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru	2001	6×75cl	£790	4	91
This is slowing transforming itself into a really lovely wine of weight, depth and intensity with a richly detailed, expressive nose and impressively pure and harmonious flavors that offer superb clarity of expression. This is a classical Burgundy lover’s dream with linearity, purity, harmony and simply knock out delineation plus a subtle complexity that is finesse personified. Consistent notes and this is one of those wine that has such balance that it can easily be enjoyed now or held for further development. Personally, I would advise holding it for a few more years but as I note, it can certainly be drunk now with pleasure. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Dujac Bonnes Mares	2008	6×75cl	£1,400	6	94
A cool, stony and reserved nose features spice, dark and red berry fruit, obvious earth and smoked game influences, all of which continue onto the intensely mineral-infused big-bodied flavors that for all the size and power remain beautifully detailed on the focused, powerful and moderately austere finish. This has wonderful potential and should be one of the longest-lived wines among the Dujac ‘08s. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Comte Armand, Pommard Clos Epeneaux	2008	12×75cl	£600	5	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Arnoux Lachaux, NSG	2008	12×75cl	£325	12	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Jadot L, Beaune Clos Couchereaux	2002	12×75cl	£300	1	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche	2006	12×75cl	£1,600	2	91
Here too there is a mildly macerated nose but with better overall complexity as the layering is impressive and it carries over to the rich, full and very serious flavors that possess excellent mid-palate concentration and focused power that is underpinned by very firm tannins that are bigger and slightly more rustic than those of the Charmes but there is also more buffering material. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Jayer-Gilles Exchezeaux du Dessus	2009	12×75cl	£1,900	2	92-95
A ripe, spicy and exceptionally fresh nose trimmed in subtle wood speaks of red currant and cassis before merging into impressively intense and powerful flavors brimming in dry extract that confers a seductive texture on the focused and muscular finish that is balanced and hugely long. Indeed, there is so much sap that this will be approachable in its youth but should age into a spectacular wine. Allen Meadows, Burghound
DRC Richebourg	2007	12×75cl	£7,750	1	93
A much more restrained, even taciturn nose that is actually quite ripe, spicy, fresh and diaphanous features primarily floral infused red berry, mineral and Asian spice aromas that merge gracefully into supple, round and tautly muscled broad-shouldered flavors that are almost as pure as those of the RSV, all wrapped in a detailed, focused and almost painfully intense finish brimming with minerality and striking length. This is a karate champion of a wine that isn’t especially big but the power and authority of the punch is hard to believe. I suspect that despite the fact that the ‘07 Riche will not be a long distance runner by the standards that are typical here, this will be a late bloomer in terms of permitting a true assessment of its character and potential, meaning at least a decade. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Roty J, Gevrey Chamb Fontenys	2008	12×75cl	£560	3	–
Below 70 is a D or F, depending on where you went to school. For wine, it is a sign of an imbalanced, flawed, or terribly dull or diluted product that will be of little interest to the discriminating consumer
Comtes Lafon Meursault les Genevrieres	2007	12×75cl	£1,590	1	93
By contrast with the expressiveness of the Goutte d’Or, this is much more reserved and with a different aromatic profile more given to seductive and slightly exotic spices, citrus blossom and orange peel that leads to classy, rich, full and naturally sweet palate coating flavors as the dry extract is every bit as impressive. Like all of the Lafon ‘07s, it is the impeccable balance that really sets these wines apart and the Genevrières is a wine of perfect harmony, particularly on the linear and explosive finish. Allen Meadows, Burghound
Dujac Clos de la Roche	2007	12×375cl	£975	3	92
This is discreetly floral with an elegant, refined and dense nose of red berry fruit, earth and wisps of anise and clove that precede textured, fresh and mouth coating medium plus weight flavors that possess good richness and solid power, punch, depth and length. Though it would not be my recommendation, this is sufficiently forward that it could actually be drunk now with sufficient aeration. Allen Meadows, Burghound

Champagne
					hover or click for more
Louis Roederer Cristal – giftbox	2004	6×75cl	£580	10	–
(Notes not available)
Dom Perignon	1999	6×75cl	£480	4	–
(Notes not available)
Barons de Rothschild Champagne Blanc de Blancs	NV	6×75cl	£220	5	–
(Notes not available)
Nyetimber Blanc de Blancs	1998	6×75cl	£190	2	–
the wine served at the G20 in London.
Dom Perignon	2002	6×75cl	£480	6	–
(Notes not available)

Italy
					hover or click for more
Ornellaia	1990	1×150cl	£375	1	94
The 1990 Ornellaia (magnum) foreshadows an opulent style that would become the norm in future years. A rich, dense Ornellaia, the 1990 offers exceptional balance in its expressive bouquet, ripe fruit and beautifully balanced acidity. Earthiness, licorice, smoke and menthol linger on the elegant finish. In 1990 temperatures were unusually warm toward the end of the growing season, which comes through in the wine’s generous, open personality. The 1990 Ornellaia is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Merlot and 4% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 15 months in French oak, 40% of which was new. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	2000	1×150cl	£575	3	91
Readers looking for a more mature Masseto might want to consider the 2000. It presents a more evolved set of earth, tobacco and roasted coffee bean aromas and flavors along with ripe dark fruit. Although it displays plenty of concentration and length on the palate its slightly coarse tannins are those of a merely good, but not great vintage. 91/Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. The 100% Merlot Masseto, on the other hand, has proven to be a wine of greater singularity. Its unique, unmistakable personality always comes through, especially in a set of widely diverse vintages, as this vertical attests. The Masseto vineyard measures roughly 7 hectares. Set on a gently sloping hill, the vineyard is divided into three sections which contain different clay-based soil types. The structure of Masseto comes from the central portion of the vineyard (Masseto Centrale), where the terrain is most compact. Towards the upper part of the hillside (Masseto Alto) the soils contain a higher percentage of rocks and thus yield wines that are more aromatic. The lower stretch of the vineyard, known as “Masseto Junior,” is also the most recent to be planted. According to Raspini the fruit from these vines bridges the qualities of the wines from the central and upper portions of the vineyard and thus serves to give Masseto its finesse and balance. There is also a small amount of fruit that comes from the “Vigna Vecchia” plot which is the source of the Merlot that is used for Ornellaia. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration typically last around 25 days, give or take, depending on the quality of the fruit, after which the wines are moved into 100% new French oak barrels for the malolactic fermentations. The wines spend 12 months in oak prior to being assembled, after which the final blend spends an additional 12 months in oak prior to being bottled. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	1999	1×150cl	£775	3	95
With the 1999 vintage Masseto returns to another powerful, fresh and vibrant expression of this wine. Conveying an impression of youth, the 1999 Masseto reveals layers of dark fruit that open in the glass with much persistence on the palate and terrific overall balance. It is stunning vintage for this wine. 95/ Anticipated maturity: 2009-2019. The 100% Merlot Masseto, on the other hand, has proven to be a wine of greater singularity. Its unique, unmistakable personality always comes through, especially in a set of widely diverse vintages, as this vertical attests. The Masseto vineyard measures roughly 7 hectares. Set on a gently sloping hill, the vineyard is divided into three sections which contain different clay-based soil types. The structure of Masseto comes from the central portion of the vineyard (Masseto Centrale), where the terrain is most compact. Towards the upper part of the hillside (Masseto Alto) the soils contain a higher percentage of rocks and thus yield wines that are more aromatic. The lower stretch of the vineyard, known as “Masseto Junior,” is also the most recent to be planted. According to Raspini the fruit from these vines bridges the qualities of the wines from the central and upper portions of the vineyard and thus serves to give Masseto its finesse and balance. There is also a small amount of fruit that comes from the “Vigna Vecchia” plot which is the source of the Merlot that is used for Ornellaia. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration typically last around 25 days, give or take, depending on the quality of the fruit, after which the wines are moved into 100% new French oak barrels for the malolactic fermentations. The wines spend 12 months in oak prior to being assembled, after which the final blend spends an additional 12 months in oak prior to being bottled. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	2003	1×150cl	£780	1	93
The 2003 Masseto opens with a huge, expressive super-ripe nose. Ample and expansive on the palate, it displays much opulence in its generous fruit, with awesome concentration, outstanding length and a lovely vein of minerality which provides a level of freshness that is surprising for the vintage. A lingering note of sweetness punctuates the long finish. It should drink well for at least another decade, although it is absolutely irresistible today. It is a stunning wine. Owing to the challenging nature of the vintage, in 2003 Masseto was made only from the central part of the vineyard which is planted with the oldest vines. 93/Anticipated maturity: 2007-2017. The 100% Merlot Masseto, on the other hand, has proven to be a wine of greater singularity. Its unique, unmistakable personality always comes through, especially in a set of widely diverse vintages, as this vertical attests. The Masseto vineyard measures roughly 7 hectares. Set on a gently sloping hill, the vineyard is divided into three sections which contain different clay-based soil types. The structure of Masseto comes from the central portion of the vineyard (Masseto Centrale), where the terrain is most compact. Towards the upper part of the hillside (Masseto Alto) the soils contain a higher percentage of rocks and thus yield wines that are more aromatic. The lower stretch of the vineyard, known as “Masseto Junior,” is also the most recent to be planted. According to Raspini the fruit from these vines bridges the qualities of the wines from the central and upper portions of the vineyard and thus serves to give Masseto its finesse and balance. There is also a small amount of fruit that comes from the “Vigna Vecchia” plot which is the source of the Merlot that is used for Ornellaia. Each parcel is harvested and vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration typically last around 25 days, give or take, depending on the quality of the fruit, after which the wines are moved into 100% new French oak barrels for the malolactic fermentations. The wines spend 12 months in oak prior to being assembled, after which the final blend spends an additional 12 months in oak prior to being bottled. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Costa Russi	1988	1×300cl	£895	1	90
The full-bodied 1988 Costa Russi reveals a purple tinge to its color, as well as a straightforward, rich nose of black fruits and new oak. At present it is more monolithic than the other single vineyard Barbarescos. All of Gaja’s 1988 Barbarescos are backward, reserved wines. Even after sitting four days with the corks pulled they exhibited no signs of oxidation. While they should be uncommonly long-lived, I did not see quite the flesh and richness possessed by such vintages as 1985 and 1982. Robert Parker
Gaja Sperss	2004	6×75cl	£725	2	96
Gaja’s 2004 Langhe Sperss is an infant. Still incredibly primary, it exudes the essence of Serralunga black fruits, smoke and tar. The new oak is still very evident here and the wine seems to be at an awkward phase of its development. Still, it offers stunning concentration as well as length, with soft, caressing tannins that frame the fruit all the way to the long finish. This wine is in need of serious bottle age and may very well merit a higher score once it emerges from its temporary period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029.
Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Ris	2004	6×75cl	£1,025	2	98
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Giacosa Barbaresco Asili Riserva Red Label	2007	6×75cl	£975	5	97
The 2007 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is sweet, perfumed and totally gorgeous in its round, sensual fruit. Silky, elegant tannins frame the long, harmonious finish. Stylistically the 2007 is most similar to the 2004, although it seems to have more exuberant, opulent fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2037. My annual tasting with Bruno Giacosa encompassed all his 2008s and 2009s, plus the 2000 Baroli and Barbareschi, which will be covered in a subsequent article. Vintage 2008 and 2009 are both interesting, but don’t look to be as consistent across the board as 2007. Never one to say much, Giacosa is quite reserved and even severe with his own wines, with the exception of the occasional wine that crosses his lips and elicits a ‘this is good.’
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£200	1	–
(Notes not available)
Ornellaia	2000	6×75cl	£700	1	93
The 2000 Ornellaia (magnum) is a pretty, well-balanced offering with good concentration and complexity. The 2000 lacks some of the visceral thrill of top vintages, but it is an excellent choice for near-term drinking. In 2000 Ornellaia is 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 18 months in French oak (70% new) and was lightly fined prior to being bottled. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2020. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino Schiena d’Asino	2007	6×75cl	£275	2	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino Vigna Loreto	2007	6×75cl	£195	3	92
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Pian del Orino Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£240	4	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Salicutti Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione	2007	6×75cl	£220	4	92
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£165	5	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£330	1	–
(Notes not available)
Lisini Brunello di Montalcino Ugolaia	2006	6×75cl	£259	2	95
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
San Polino Brunello di Montalcino Helichrysum	2007	6×75cl	£275	1	–
(Notes not available)
Sassetti L Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£250	1	–
(Notes not available)
Sassetti L Pertimali Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£170	1	–
(Notes not available)
Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£750	2	–
(Notes not available)
Soldera Case Basse Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£825	5	–
(Notes not available)
Talenti Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£165	3	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Salvioni Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£360	2	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Costanti Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£195	5	95
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£190	3	93
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Caprili Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£150	2	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino Tenuta Nuova	2007	6×75cl	£235	5	95
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£485	4	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Fontelontano	2006	6×75cl	£220	1	88
80-89 is equivalent to a B in school and such a wine, particularly in the 85-89 range, is very, very good; many of the wines that fall into this range often are great values as well. I have many of these wines in my personal collection
Mastrojanni Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£160	5	93
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Costanti Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£300	3	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino Riserva	2006	6×75cl	£350	5	95
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£210	3	95
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£150	5	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Il Marroneto Brunello di Montalcino Madonna Del Grazie	2007	6×75cl	£198	3	96
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Paganelli	2006	6×75cl	£250	2	97
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Il Poggione Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£140	4	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Le Potazzine Gorelli Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£170	5	93
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Collemattoni Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£155	2	92
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Masseto	1996	6×75cl	£2,000	1	–
(Notes not available)
Tignanello	2001	6×75cl	£475	10	93
The 2001 Tignanello is an object lesson in how to make Cabernet work with Sangiovese, the two varieties balancing and enhancing one another in admirable symbiosis. (The percentage of Cabernet, in fact, was reduced from the previous 20% to 15% in this vintage, an important sign – I hope – of how the wind is blowing.) A blackish ruby, its perfectly focused plum and cassis fruit, given an additional complexity by notes of sweet herbs and saddle leather, is fully and completely shaped in flavors of impeccable volume, roundness, and depth, caressing and powerful and with an additional power on the close which promises another 15 years of gratifying drinking. Daniel Tomasses, the Wine Advocate
Tignanello	2009	6×75cl	£240	10	–
(Notes not available)
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£180	1	93
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Asili is sweet, sensual and perfumed. Today the wine remains extremely reticent, but the tannins show extraordinary purity and silkiness, suggesting the only thing missing is time. For now the 2005 Asili shows great integrity in its dark red fruit, with notable persistence on the palate and a round, powerful close. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Ornellaia	1997	6×75cl	£1,100	1	94
Probably the finest (and most sumptuous) Ornellaia yet produced, the 1997 has it all. A dense purple color offers up smoky espresso and jammy black cherry aromas wrapped in new oak. Full-bodied, opulent, thick, and juicy, this low acid, seamless classic can be drunk now and over the next 15+ years. Robert Parker
Gaja Sperss	2006	6×75cl	£675	4	97
The first thing I noticed about the 2006 Langhe Sperss is the finish, which literally lasts an eternity. It, too, is more overtly structured, powerful and less fruit-forward than the 2007, but its focus and drive are commendable. The wine seems to hover on the palate with an ethereal expression of dark fruit, smoke, licorice, tar and menthol, all of which are backed up with substantial heft and sheer muscle. This is a marvelous effort from Gaja and will appeal most to readers with a preference for sturdy, age-worthy wines. Anticipated maturity: 2021-2041. My most recent visit to Gaja was quite an experience, as I tasted all of the estate’s 1989s, 1990s and 2007s. The 1989s and 1990s are reviewed in this issue’s What About Now feature. Angelo Gaja, always loquacious on a wide range of subjects, says virtually nothing about his wines, an approach I have increasingly come to appreciate in an era where so many producers are constantly in pitch mode. Then again, Gaja doesn’t really need to say anything, the wines speak for themselves. I tasted the 2007s at the winery in November 2009 and then again in New York in January 2010. Both times they were spectacular. Stylistically the 2007s remind me of the 1997s in terms of their opulence. Gaja’s wines are often immensely appealing when young – which is certainly the case with the 2007s – but then close down in bottle for a number of years, sometimes many years. My impression is that the Costa Russi and Conteisa are the most likely of these 2007s to offer the widest drinking windows throughout their lives with a minimum of cellaring. Fermentation and malolactic fermentation take place in steel. The wines then spend approximately one year in French oak and a second year in cask prior to being bottled. As has been the case for a number of years now, Gaja’s Langhe wines incorporate a small percentage of Barbera. On a final note, it’s great to see Gaja’s daughters Gaia and Rossana increasingly involved in the winery. They, and their younger brother Giovanni, have big shoes to fill, but couldn’t have asked for better teachers than Angelo and Lucia Gaja.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco	2005	6×75cl	£135	3	91
Once again, the Produttori have turned out a gem in their 2005 Barbaresco. A beautiful, perfumed Nebbiolo, the wine flows effortlessly from the glass with captivating notes of crushed flowers, raspberries, sweet herbs and spices. This classic, mid-weight Barbaresco possesses plenty of clean, bright fruit framed by elegant tannins, showing notable harmony. Simply put, this is a classic wine Piedmont lovers won’t want to miss. Ideally, the wine should be cellared for a few years, but readers will have a hard time exercising such patience. This is Lot 8.115. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2025. Managing Director Aldo Vacca had some interesting things to say about the 2005 vintage in Barbaresco. “I wasn’t initially convinced about the quality of the vintage until I had the wines fermenting in the cellar, something I also experienced in 1978,” says Vacca. “ The summer wasn’t especially hot, but the Fall was gorgeous, and our harvest took place during the second half of October. Given that yields were on the high side, I felt we needed to be especially selective in the cellar, so we produced roughly 30% less of some of our Riservas by using only the best individual lots for wines like our Ovello, Montestefano and Moccagatta Riservas. Any lots we weren’t thrilled about went into our non-Riserva Barbaresco. In 2004 vineyard exposures were a huge factor in determining maturity, while 2005 was perhaps a touch more consistent throughout, but without the complexity and structure of the 2004s.” Readers who have a hard time finding the 2004s, shouldn’t fret, as the Produttori will also release Riservas for the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages, so there will be plenty of wine in the pipeline over the next few years. Given the weakness in the US dollar, readers may want to quickly snap up any remaining stocks of the 2001 Riservas as well.
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Paje	2005	6×75cl	£200	1	91
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Paje opens with a blast of tar, menthol and smoke that leads to dark cherries, plums, leather and licorice. This is an especially powerful, shut-down Barbaresco at this stage, but with time in bottle the layers should fill out quite nicely. Today it remains compact and in need of further time in bottle. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Ovello	2005	6×75cl	£200	1	92
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Ovello is usually one of the more reticent of the estate’s Riservas, but in 2005 it is especially unyielding. Still firm and tightly wound, the wine possesses notable detail and clarity in its fruit in a focused, compact style. Based on previous experience, I may very well be underestimating this wine, but only time will tell for sure. After several hours the Ovello opened up nicely and my impression is it will develop into a splendid Barbaresco?with time. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines.
Sandrone Barolo le Vigne	2004	6×75cl	£425	1	96
The 2004 Barolo Le Vigne is a phenomenal effort. Sweet, long and pure, it reveals an expansive core of perfumed ripe red fruit, flowers and spices. Despite its notable concentration it is made in a restrained style, showing remarkable elegance as well as harmony, with superb length and finessed tannins on the close. Le Vigne is made from the Ceretta, Vignane, Merli and Conterni vineyards. I have tasted the wines from these plots separately on many occasions. Curiously, I have never been particularly impressed by any of the wines on their own, yet when they are blended the results can be extraordinary, as is the case with the sublime 2004 Le Vigne. Anticipated maturity: 2008-2019. Luciano Sandrone has been ecstatic about the quality of his 2004s since I first tasted the wines with him in the winter of that year. While 2004 is a superb vintage overall, Sandrone’s wines stand out, most notably for their extraordinary elegance. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabaja	2005	6×75cl	£200	1	–
(Notes not available)
Ornellaia	2008	6×75cl	£520	2	96
The 2008 Ornellaia has really come together beautifully over the last few months. Up until fairly recently it was a tightly wound, inaccessible wine, but it has begun to blossom quite nicely. The 2008 is a cool, inward Ornellaia graced with exquisite finesse in its dark fruit, mocha, licorice, tar and spices. I especially like the minerality and focus. There is a fabulous balance between the tannins of this structured, powerful vintage, but with gorgeous fleshiness and pliancy that makes the wine very attractive, even at this early stage. It will be fascinating to watch the 2008 develop over the coming years and decades. The 2008 growing season was marked by a rainy, wet spring which resulted in an irregular flowering and naturally low yields. The summer was hot, but temperatures cooled towards the end of the summer, particularly at night, so important for the development of color, aromatics and full phenolic ripeness in varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon. The result is a big, massively structured Ornellaia built for the cellar. In 2008 the blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc and 3% Petit Verdot. The 2008 Ornellaia spent about 20 months in French oak barrels, 70% new. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2028. This is another strong set of wines from Tenuta dell’Ornellaia. The 2008 Ornellaia is back to its usual high level after a slightly perplexing 2007, while the 2008 Masseto is another in a fine line of vintages for this Tuscan icon. Readers should be on the lookout for a complete vertical of Masseto, back to the inaugural 1986 Il Merlot dell’Ornellaia, which will be posted on www.erobertparker.com in the coming weeks. Needless to say, it was an amazing tasting. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Talenti Brunello Riserva Pian di Conte	2006	6×75cl	£190	2	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Valdicava Brunello Madonna Del Piano	2004	6×75cl	£435	3	96
The 2004 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Madonna del Piano continues to develop very positively. This huge, concentrated Madonna del Piano dazzles for the richness of its fruit and the delineation of its aromas. The clean, vibrant finish suggests many years of cellaring potential. The Valdicava Brunellos are often misunderstood when young because they possess so much richness, but with time in bottle the wines turn more delicate and complete. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Vincenzo Abbruzzese is one of the most outspoken, passionate growers in Montalcino. His beautifully tended vineyards yield some of the richest wines in the region; and that’s where most of the focus is – on the vineyards. The winery itself is unremarkable and is equipped with just the bare essentials. All of the wines are aged in large, neutral oak; what comes through is Abbruzzese’s commitment to low yields, sustainable farming and non-interventionalist winemaking. Unfortunately I was not able to taste the 2008 Rosso in bottle, but several samples tasted from tank and cask seemed quite promising. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Uccelliera Brunello di Montalcino	2007	6×75cl	£320	3	94
90-100 is equivalent to an A and is given only for an outstanding or special effort. Wines in this category are the very best produced of their type. There is a big difference between a 90 and 99, but both are top marks. As you will note through the text, there are few wines that actually make it into this top category because there are not many great wines
Guidalberto Tenuta San Guido	2007	6×75cl	£130	6	92
The 2007 Guidalberto is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, with most of the fruit coming from a property adjacent to the vineyards used for Sassicaia. About 20% of the wine consists of declassified barrels of Sassicaia. The 2007 Guidalberto is another sexy, ripe offering from Tenuta San Guido. The wine reveals gorgeous inner perfume and endless layers of fruit that coat the palate all the way through to the long finish. The 2007 is not likely to be as long-lived as the 2006, but I doubt that will be much of a problem as these bottles are likely to be long gone by the time ageability becomes an issue. Readers will have a very hard time keeping their hands off this irresistible, sensual, opulent wine. The 2007 is another blockbuster Guidalberto! Anticipated maturity: 2010-2020. This is a superb set of releases from Tenuta San Guido, the estate that put Maremma on the map as a terroir for world-class wine. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Barbaresco	2004	6×75cl	£700	4	93
The 2004 Barbaresco reveals fresh, perfumed aromatics that lead to layers of crushed flowers, spices and sweet raspberries. This is a wine of rare class, elegance and pure breed. It offers outstanding length and silky, elegant tannins to round out the inviting finish. Anticipated maturity: 2009-2024. Angelo Gaja and long-time oenologist Guido Rivella produced some of the most monumental wines of their long, storied partnership in 2004. Although I admire Gaja’s wines, especially for their consistency, I rarely find them this emotionally moving and utterly profound. The stable weather and cool, tempering evenings towards the end of the growing season allowed Gaja and Rivella to harvest fairly late in 2004. I remember passing by Gaja’s Barbaresco vineyards in October of that year and seeing fruit still waiting to be picked long after most producers had already brought the fruit in. Gaja’s 2004s from Barbaresco are especially breathtaking for their clarity and precision. The wines also seem less internationally-styled than in the past. Readers fortunate enough to possess the means to acquire these wines won’t want to miss them! The 2003s from the Barolo zones of La Morra and Serralunga are also strong efforts considering the vintage. “Historically in Piedmont there has been an inverse relationship between quality and quantity. Great vintages like 1961 and 1989 were characterized by low yields,” says Gaja. “2004 is one of those rare vintages like 1964 and 1990 where quality is high even though yields were generous as well. I think 2004 is a very elegant vintage. It is much easier to achieve opulence in the wines, but finesse is always much more elusive.” Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Masseto	1995	6×75cl	£2,200	3	–
(Notes not available)
Produttori del Barbaresco Moccagatta Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£205	2	90
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Moccagatta is one of the more compact, linear wines in this vintage. The Moccagatta offers up sensations of bright red fruits, flowers, spices and vanilla in a rather unyielding style. The wine should improve in bottle but the tannins will likely always remain somewhat firm. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Montefico Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£205	1	93
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Montefico is simply beautiful in the way it combines elements of florality and structure, which makes it one of the more complex, multi-faceted wines in 2005. Sweet roses blossom on the palate, followed by succulent ripe raspberries, mint and baking spices. As the wine sits in the glass the layers continue to fill out, revealing a wine of first-class pedigree. This is an exceptional effort from the Produttori! Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Pora Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£145	2	92
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Pora is wonderfully layered in its dark cherries, spices, menthol, licorice and minerals. The medium-bodied Pora is one of the firmer and more linear Riservas in 2005. Still, it shows exceptional balance in a powerful style that will require a measure of patience. Here, too, the finish is wonderfully elegant. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Rio Sordo Riserva	2005	6×75cl	£205	2	92
The 2005 Barbaresco Riserva Rio Sordo jumps from the glass with an exciting array of freshly cut roses, spices and raspberries. The 2005 is an especially dense, rich Rio Sordo endowed with superb depth and great overall balance. Floral notes accompany the wine from start to finish in an irresistible display of the perfume that makes Barbaresco such a sexy wine. In 2005 the Rio Sordo is not to be missed. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2025. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Sperss	1998	6×75cl	£745	4	–
(Notes not available)
Guidalberto Tenuta San Guido	2009	6×75cl	£120	7	92
The 2009 Guidalberto flows across the palate with layers of radiant red fruit. This is another striking, supple Guidalberto loaded with personality. Stylistically it is quite close to the 2007, but with perhaps a touch less body but equally silky, polished tannins. Freshly cut roses, spices and a burst of pure red berries add nuance on the finish. Guidalberto is no longer the stunning value it once was, but it is quite gorgeous in this vintage just the same. This is easily one of the best vintages I can recall tasting. Guidalberto is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Tenuta San Guido is on a roll these days. Over the last few years, the estate has released a number of hugely delicious wines. These new releases are nicely aligned with their respective vintages. The entry-level Le Difese and Guidalberto both capture the essence of a sunny year that made wines well suited to near-term drinking, while the 2008 Sassicaia captures the potential of a powerful vintage characterized by low yields and a late harvest. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Ornellaia	1998	6×75cl	£800	5	91
The 1998 is a decidedly slender Ornellaia. More advanced than the 1999, it shows notes of tobacco, herbs and ripe fruit on a medium-bodied frame with good length on the palate and slightly less polished tannins than is usually the case. The final blend in 1998 was 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 35% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc. 91/Anticipated maturity: 2008-2018. Tenuta dell’Ornellaia is without question one of Italy’s blue-chip properties. The gorgeous, sprawling estate is located in Bolgheri in Tuscany’s Maremma. On a recent visit I had the opportunity to taste a number of the estate’s wines with General Manager/Agronomist Leonardo Raspini and Oenologist Axel Heinz, including verticals of the estate’s top bottlings Ornellaia and Masseto. Ornellaia is a Bordeaux-inspired blend consisting principally of Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Merlot. In 2003 a small percentage of Petit Verdot was introduced. The use of several varietals gives the winemaking team the luxury of being able to tailor the exact proportion of the blend to the specific strengths of a given vintage. Because the blend tends to vary from year to year in a vertical tasting Ornellaia shows many different facets of its personality. After harvest the varietals are vinified separately. Fermentation and maceration lasts between 25-30 days after which the wines are moved into French oak barrels where they age for 12 months. The wines are then racked and assembled into the final blend, which spends an additional six months in barrel prior to being bottled. The percentage of new oak has risen from 50%, which was used for vintages 1997 and 1998, to 60% used in 1999, to the 70% the estate has employed since 2000. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Gaja Sperss	1997	12×75cl	£3,000	1	99
A virtually perfect effort is the 1997 Sperss (30,000 bottles), which represents the essence of truffles, earth, and black cherries in its striking aromatics and multidimensional, opulent, full-bodied palate. The acidity seems low because of the huge glycerin levels and prodigious concentration of fruit, but I suspect it is normal in the scheme of oenological measurement. This profound wine requires 3-4 years of cellaring, and should age well for 30-35 years. A genius for sure, Angelo Gaja can not be faulted for what he puts in the bottle. This work of art is worth every cent it will fetch. Importer: Paterno Imports, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604-89000
Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco	2006	12×75cl	£175	5	92
The 2006 Barbaresco is a gorgeous, generous Barbaresco loaded with ripe dark fruit. This is an especially harmonious, refined Barbaresco from the Produttori that is also somewhat unusual for its dark, brooding personality. Licorice, leather and tar linger on the powerful finish. Today the wine is remarkable for its depth and concentration, while the aromatic complexity will develop in bottle. If the regular Barbaresco holds this much power, I can only wonder what the Riservas might have in store. Simply put, this is a marvelous effort. This is Lot 9.125 Anticipated maturity: 2011-2031. The Produttori del Barbaresco have another set of wonderful wines on their hands with these new releases. The Produttori have long made delicious, ageworthy Barbarescos, but in the last few years the overall level of quality and consistency has gone up several notches. Best of all, prices have remained exceedingly fair. The 2005 Riservas are worthy successors to the magical 2004s. The 2005 have more overt fruit than the 2004s but lack the explosive, layered quality that defines so many of the wines of that magical harvest. Still, these fine, traditionally built Barbarescos deserve serious attention. The estate’s fans will be delighted to learn that Riservas are planned for the 2006, 2007 and 2008 vintages. Readers who want to learn more about the Produttori may want to revisit my article on www.erobertparker.com for notes on a number of the estate’s legendary, benchmark wines. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio	2006	12×75cl	£1,145	3	97
The 2006 Barolo Cerequio opens with an utterly beguiling, captivating bouquet that leads to ripe red fruit, flowers, minerals and spices, all framed by sweet, silky tannins. Aromatics, textural elegance and freshness come together in this energetic, vivid Barolo. The finish is exceptionally long, pure and fresh, which suggests the wine will age gracefully for many years. The 2006 Barolo Cerequio is emerging as one of the finest wines in this important vintage. Simply put, it is awesome! Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026.
Sassicaia	2006	12×75cl	£1,550	2	97
The 2006 Sassicaia may very well go down as one of the all-time great recent vintages for this Tuscan thoroughbred. The year started off very warm but by August evening temperatures had moderated, leaving the fruit with a stunning combination of ripeness, perfume, acidity and tannin. The wine is simply glorious, that’s all there is to it. Layers of dark fruit meld into smoke, leather, violets, menthol, earthiness and tar as this profound wine opens up in the glass. The creamy, silky finish lasts an eternity, as waves of fruit caress the tannins with breathtaking elegance. Everything is in the right place in this magical Sassicaia. This is one for the ages. In a word: Awesome. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2031. This is a superb set of releases from Tenuta San Guido, the estate that put Maremma on the map as a terroir for world-class wine. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2007	12×75cl	£860	4	96
The 2007 Barolo Cascina Francia is an unusual version of this benchmark wine. In 2007 Conterno decided against bottling his Monfortino. Conterno believes Nebbiolo can handle rain and humidity (hence his decision to make Monfortino in rainy years such as 1987 and 2002), but not drought. The result is a Cascina Francia that is unusually dark, rich and powerful. The floral, herbal notes that are typical in young Cascina Francia have been replaced by deeper notes of tar, smoke and licorice to match the layers of intense dark fruit. The 2007 is powerful and imposing from start to finish. It is going to be a fascinating Barolo to follow over the coming years and decades. Cascina Francia is often accessible for the first year or two after it has been bottled. That has not been my experience with the 2007. It seems already headed for a period of dormancy. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2037.
Sassicaia	2007	12×75cl	£1,325	5	95
The 2007 Sassicaia (Cabernet Sauvignon) explodes onto the palate with masses of rich, opulent fruit that caress the palate with gorgeous length and a seamless beauty that is hard to fully capture. Dark wild cherries, plums, spices, minerals and herbs develop in the glass. This is an especially bold, perhaps slightly uncharacteristic Sassicaia in its extroverted personality, but it is beautiful all the same. The inner perfume and sweetness carries through the long finish, where the sheer weight and glycerol of the fruit leaves a lasting impression. The 2007 is more than a worthy follow-up to the profound 2006. While it may lack that wine’s freshness, structure and potential longevity, the 2007 is immensely appealing today, and should drink beautifully pretty much out of the gate. That said, Sassicaia is always the most restrained of Bolgheri’s heavy hitters. This is a superb effort from Tenuta San Guido. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2037. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Produttori del Barbaresco Langhe Nebbiolo	2009	12×75cl	£150	2	89
The 2009 Langhe Nebbiolo is made from the coop’s youngest vines and given a relatively short six months in large neutral oak. This mid-weight, juicy Nebbiolo is sleek and refined in its floral red fruit and spices, with good intensity and terrific overall balance. It is an excellent choice for drinking over the next few years. Anticipated maturity: 2010-2014. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Sassicaia	2008	12×75cl	£1,095	2	96
The 2008 Sassicaia is a rich, deep wine imbued with notable class in its black cherries, plums, grilled herbs, minerals and smoke. The 2008 is a decidedly buttoned-up, firm Sassicaia that is currently holding back much of its potential, unlike the 2006 and 2007, both of which were far more obvious wines. Readers who can afford to wait will be treated to a sublime wine once this settles down in bottle. Muscular, firm tannins frame the exquisite finish in this dark, implosive Sassicaia. The 2008 Sassicaia is 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc. The wine spent 24 months in French oak barrels. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2038. Tenuta San Guido is on a roll these days. Over the last few years, the estate has released a number of hugely delicious wines. These new releases are nicely aligned with their respective vintages. The entry-level Le Difese and Guidalberto both capture the essence of a sunny year that made wines well suited to near-term drinking, while the 2008 Sassicaia captures the potential of a powerful vintage characterized by low yields and a late harvest. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Montfortino Riserva	2004	12×75cl	£4,750	2	100
The 2004 Barolo Riserva Monfortino is drop-dead gorgeous. I have tasted the wine multiple times from barrel and three times from bottle and never been anything less than blown away. The 2004 is a subtle, layered Monfortino that captures the sheer elegance and finesse of this great vintage. It is sweet, perfumed, silky and utterly mind-blowing. From barrel it has always been a 100 point wine, but it has just been bottled and naturally a bit closed in on itself. Still, with some time in the glass its silky, perfumed fruit and dazzling class come to life. The 2004 is remarkably harmonious for such a young wine. Readers will have much fun debating which is the greatest Monfortino of recent years. Could it be the 1996, 1999 or 2002 for their huge structure and classicism? Or, is it the 1997 for its opulence? What if the dark horse 1998 and 2000 steal the show? Personally, I adore the 2001 and 2004 for their completeness, but the 2004 is the sexiest of them all. Sadly, 2004 is also the year Giovanni Conterno passed away, but one can’t escape the feeling his spirit lives in this wine. Kudos to Roberto Conterno and his team for this magnificent, thrilling Barolo. Anticipated maturity: 2019-2044. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate
Giacomo Conterno Barolo Cascina Francia	2006	12×75cl	£985	2	96
The 2006 Barolo Cascina Francia is a deep, muscular wine endowed with superb richness, inner perfume and structure. From cask this has always been an intense, inward Barolo and now that it is in bottle, those qualities seem even more prominent. Over time, the classic Cascina Francia bouquet of roses, tar, herbs and licorice comes forward, but only reluctantly. A massive wall of tannins prevents the fruit from emerging, but every now and then the wine shows hints of its ultimate potential. The finish alone is breathtakingly beautiful for its balance and inner sense of harmony. The 2006 is not as showy young as other recent great vintages such as 2001 or 2004, so I will not be surprised if it is overlooked, but it is a magnificent Barolo that only needs time, and lots of it. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2046. Few properties are so closely linked with a single site as Giacomo Conterno. Since 1978 the Cascina Francia vineyard in Serralunga, a monopole holding, has been the source of all of the estate’s wines, including the Baroli Cascina Francia and Monfortino, rightly considered by most observers as among the most profound wines in the world. Needless to say, it was big news when proprietor Roberto Conterno purchased three hectares in Ceretta, also in Serralunga, in 2008. Would the new wines reflect the same house aesthetic as the wines from Cascina Francia, or would the terroir of Ceretta be the dominant factor? Could Ceretta yield wines of similar importance as those of Cascina Francia? After all, Cascina Francia was a cornfield with a few old vines from a past life when the Conternos purchased it in 1974. These were some of the questions Barolo lovers asked, and now, two years later some answers have begun to emerge. The first, and most obvious, is that the new wines are loaded with the Conterno house style. That said, they are works in progress. Roberto Conterno took over his parcels in Cerretta in mid-2008, after which he had the misfortune of suffering through several hailstorms. When I visited the new vineyards in the summer of 2008 Conterno told me he thought it would take two to three years for the vines to respond to his methods of viticulture. Clearly 2008 is not the optimal vintage by which to measure the ultimate potential of these wines, but there appears to be much to look forward to based on the 2009s I tasted from barrel recently. All of that said, the star among these new releases is without question the 2002 Monfortino, a wine that is destined to carve a place for itself as one of the greatest wines ever made. That it is the product of a vintage that was disastrous for nearly every other producer in Piedmont will only add to the shroud of mystique that has surrounded this wine since its birth. Antonio Galloni, the Wine Advocate

En primeur wine list

Download

Parker Score

Wine & Champagne

list dated 17 May 2012

Bordeaux

Burgundy

Champagne

Italy