Ditton Wine Traders’ fine wine blog

Whilst I'm nibbling away at a belated lunch in St Emilion, I'd like to share my impressions on the 2009 vintage, after having visited many Negociants and tasted across the appellations.

It will be a very good vintage. It lives up to the hype. The left bank is consistently very, very good and it's definitely a Cabernet Sauvignon/ Cabernet Franc vintage. Very homogeneous with very few disappointments. Even, or even especially the Cru Bourgeouis are buys. Pretty much all St Estephes are buys, with Montrose potentially the best ever made (i.e. 100 points.) Pauillac is great (Pontet Canet!!!), St Julien and Margaux are right up there as well. Graves is spectacular at the top level, my personal value for money favourite being Domaine de Chevalier. Sauternes, or all stickies for that matter are awesome. At least on par with 2001! Will this finally be the vintage where Sauternes will take off? It should, IMHO. The only warning I'd like to sound is for the Right Bank: top Chateaux are spectacular, but it's not a Merlot favoured vintage – select well as some are high alcohol "soup".

Above is not just my opinion, it's derived from my own tastings as well as scores by James Suckling as well as all the Twitter feedback during the tastings from more accomplished tasters than myself. See also Jancis Robinson for Sauternes: she adores it! If you like more tasting notes, just check out the websites of BBR, Farr, Bindex etc.

The annoying thing about this praise is of course that it will encourage the Chateaux to hike up their prices. The quality does merit higher prices than 2008 for sure, but how much so? I will spend more time on that issue later on. For now, let's just hope that the Chateaux will understand that exchange rates, unemployment and the general, uncertain state of the economy should prevent prices to go nuts. As compared to the previous most expensive vintage – 2005 – the world is a totally different place. Even with new demand from Asia. Don't think that new demand will soak up prices at or above 2005 release prices. The "pain level" for my customers does not go beyond 2005 release prices!

So, now that us mere mortals have cast our votes, how will the campaign progress? It will likely be a "play the age-old game" campaign: nothing happens until Parker releases (end of April), except some chateaux that can't afford to release amidst a host of other names. The first growths will be last to release. The Vinexpo at the end of May will see a pause. So my best guess is we will only see the 1st Growths release mid June or even later.

First tranche is expected to be very small, alas. Second tranche will be much bigger and also much more expensive. There is talk of a third and even fourth tranche, although I think this will not go down well unless the 2nd tranche is priced sharply. Bottom line: allocation is key and those who have "played the game" in the past will be reaping the reward. For newcomers: expect to pay 2nd or 3rd tranche levels and be tied in with other wines. That's what the chateaux do, the Negociants do and therefore, the Trade has to do as well..I t's an aweful practice and we will try and avoid it as much as we can, but only to a certain extent.

On the upside, there are loads of non-first growths that are awesome and relatively affordable. Some even with investment potential but all fab to drink. And, if release prices are reasonable, all wines will be buys.

To be continued...