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category: En primeur

8 December 2011All about fine wine funds and auctions

James Swann

by James Swann

In this latest piece we look at the emergence of new actors in fine wine markets, by way of wine funds and the increased prominence of fine wine auctions.

 

 

In a series of questions and answers Ella Lister, the Auctions and Secondary Market Correspondent for the World of Fine Wine Magazine (WFW) provides critical insight.

 

 

New routes to market for the collector and investor

Until James Miles, Director of Liv-ex (the London International Vintners Exchange), put a figure to it at the Hong Kong International Wine & Spirits fair, estimates of the value of the world-wide fine wine market saw swings by as much as 100%. The figure Miles arrived to was $4 billion and one that has been referred to since. As Miles pointed out, this is composed of merchants (90%) and auction houses (10%), but not other actors, such as wine funds or financial entities holding wine as an investment.

Importantly, private collectors and investors, with whom most stock resides and who may freely sell or broker their wines independently, are not included within this figure. Thus, the real value of the fine and rare wine market must be significantly higher.

 

In the 10 years since the trading platform began, the fine wine market has changed dramatically, to the point where fine wine is well on the way to being accepted as a credible alternative investment. The 2008 decision by the Hong Kong government to go from a closed to open market, by reducing its 50% tariff on wine to zero overnight, ushered in startling expansion and is the most disruptive event since the entrance of the US market in the 1970s or the arrival of the internet and transparency.

The historic fine wine trade structure – centred on the traditional merchant, collectors and auction houses – has changed too. London fine wine merchants successfully established broking divisions in the expansive environment of the early to mid-1990s, which saw Asian buyers enter for the first time. Trading platforms, led by Liv-ex, and price tools like wine-searcher.com followed and have brought transparency to a hitherto remarkably opaque market place.

We may not have given it due attention at the time, but this marked the first meaningful step in the little-by-little sophistication of fine wine markets. New actors – professionally managed wine funds and a freshly dynamic auction scene among them – mean there are now new routes to enter and exit the market for the private collector and investor.

A common feature of fast-growing, but immature markets is that a rush of new money can push up value beyond the line supported by the fundamentals. Moreover, where will this new capital go in the event of a stabilisation of stock markets; will it remain in fine wine or will it return to the traditional fold?

How important are these newly empowered actors to today’s fine wine markets?

Certainly, hammer prices and fund headlines suggest increasingly so. The former is a leading indicator of sentiment, albeit for the irrational luxury market, so important to that essential ingredient of economic prosperity, confidence. The latter? Well, we don’t know exactly. A large part of the challenge with wine funds is that, behind the headlines, facts would seem to be hard to come by. Yet, understanding the role of these new actors matters. Accurate and transparent figures, traceability and the human face are a pre-condition to the fine wine market taking the next step and becoming a mature and accepted form of investment as well as pleasure.

 

fine wine auction

 

 

Wine funds and fine wine auctions – behind the headlines with Ella Lister

DWT How important are fine wine auctions and wine funds to today’s fine wine market?

EL The wine auction market steals the headlines but represents no more than ten per cent of global fine wine revenues, at almost $400 million annually in 2010. Similarly, wine funds are on everybody’s lips, but total assets under management are no more than $400 million, and probably nearer to $300 million.

 

DWT Are fine wine auctions a good route to market for the private collector/investor?

EL They can be very lucrative, but the seller has less control over the final price, as you have to commit stock months before the actual sale, and auction houses will restrict the reserve price you can apply. Hence some wine funds steer clear of this riskier route to market.

 

 

DWT What is the current growth trend among auction houses and what is their regional spread?

EL The auction market is growing fast, but probably not considerably faster than the overall fine wine market. Revenue in the first three quarters of 2011 was up 44 per cent on the same period in 2010. Hong Kong now represents just over 50 per cent of global wine auction revenues.

 

DWT There has been a lot of talk about new funds being set up. Is this true or exaggerated? What is their impact and is this sustainable?

EL There has certainly been a flurry of announcements in 2010 and 2011, but the actual level of success is so far unclear. For example, Société Générale and Bordeaux Index have both announced funds that have yet to materialise. Despite bold aims to raise RMB 1 billion in its original statement in August, the much talked-about DeRouge fund has made no further noise. We don’t know whether it has succeeded in raising its initial target tranche of RMB 200 million.

 

DWT Do wine funds buy en primeur?

EL Some do; some don’t – see my series on funds in the WFW.

 

DWT Would buying into a fund outperform purchasing a basket as represented by the Liv-ex Investable index?

EL It’s likely to be a similar basket! You would like to think that the fund manager’s expertise and careful ongoing analysis would yield higher returns, but this is not always the case.

 

DWT Fast forward five years: what are your predictions?

EL Wine funds will continue to play a key role in the fine wine industry, as investors look increasingly to tangible assets. However, the limited size of the fine wine market means that it’s hard to imagine fine wine becoming a major investable commodity on a par with gold or even fine art. After all, the most expensive case of wine is nothing compared to the most expensive painting. The market will continue to become more sophisticated and transparent, but in five, or even ten years’ time, it still won’t be ready for large-scale investments or complex financial products. It is a niche investment product, best kept in the realm of the tangible.

 

The final instalment of Ella Lister’s three-part work, examining the pros and cons of funds vs. DIY wine investment, is in issue 34 of the World of Fine Wine Magazine, out now.

 

 Categories: InvestmentChinaBordeauxEn primeurBurgundy

15 November 2011dont be a victim of fraud

Mark Schuringa

by Mark Schuringa

The WSTA has published a "wine investment guide". It is "published and maintained by the Wine and Spirit Trade Association. Its contents were drafted in consultation with a number of reputable UK wine merchants, retailers, brokers and law enforcement agencies. It is aimed at consumers who are considering investing in fine wines. It provides tips on how to protect yourself against becoming the victim of fraud".

"Fine wines can make a good, relatively low risk long-term investment. However as with all types of business, there are rogue wine traders who are intent on conning people out of their money. Whether you are a wine enthusiast starting your own fine wine collection or someone looking to build up an investment portfolio, this guide provides some tips on how to protect yourself from becoming a victim of wine fraud".

We urge you to read this, to make sure you make the right decisions, because, as the WSTA says "fine wine can make a good, relatively low risk long term investment. However, as with all types of business, there are rogue traders who are intent on conning people out of their money". 

View the full wine investment guide here.

 Categories: InvestmentBordeauxEn primeur

7 September 2011Fine Wine Market update and outlook

Mark Schuringa

by Mark Schuringa

Now that what seems to have been a very long summer break is over, it’s time to catch up.

 

The Fine Wine Market

Immediately after the En Primeur campaign finished early July (!), activity dropped right off. July still saw relatively brisk trade, but August was very slow, slower than recent years. Partly due to the trade having had quite enough of the long drawn Bordeaux En Primeur season, partly because of the holiday season, but mostly because of the uncertainty on the financial markets, coming right in the holiday season. There was not much demand and, as some stock holders preferred cash over paper profits, there was a steady stream of supply. As a consequence, prices dropped (more on this to follow). Particularly because First Growths led the way, and because we haven’t seen any monthly price drops for quite some time now, questions were being asked as to whether this could be the correction that has been predicted by many. The high prices of 2010 Bordeaux seemed to further fuel this thought, not unlike boom before bust. Speaking of the 2010 vintage:

 

The 2010 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign

Was long. Very long. High quality wines, high prices, big ego’s, long waits. We have covered this subject quite a bit on the blog, so for details please check the blog archive. Our opinion is that it was a very badly managed campaign, with basically all players in this market bar the Chateaux feeling hung over, the consequences of which we might well feel in the years to come. Ultimately, the concept of selling future wines needs to work for all parties involved, something which was not the case in the 2010 campaign. A shame really, because quality wise this vintage deserved much better.

What is interesting to cover is whether the 2010 campaign was successful in terms of sales. The answer depends on who you ask. The Chateaux had a bumper year, no doubt. I believe the French Negociants did do ok, although they were faced with a high risk of being left with very expensive stock. Remember, the Negociants pretty much have to take their historical allocation off the Chateaux, so they bear the risk, not the Chateaux. They sold through relatively well, although remaining stock must be higher than in 2009.

Because, overall,  consumers were not nearly as excited about 2010 as they were about 2009, it was the “secondary” trade (merchants around the world) that was left holding much more stock than wanted. Or, if not, at the price of reduced future allocations. The consensus seems to be that 2010 sold about 40% of 2009 (which admittedly was an incredibly successful year). Importantly, sales were at a historically very low margin. There was lots of discounting going on, anything to sell the allocations one wanted to keep.

Up until the last 2 weeks of the campaign (until Vinexpo), Ditton Wine Traders were actually up on 2009, by a whopping 60%. Early on in the campaign, there were great wines to be had, at decent prices, something we did much more successfully than in 2009. Over the whole campaign, we sold 20% more different wines than in 2009. The last 2 weeks, when the 1st Growths and most super seconds were released, were not as successful as 2009 though, resulting in the end in a turnover of 78% as compared to 2009. When compared to most other UK merchants, we did extremely well. Although I don’t think this justifies being occupied with En Primeur Bordeaux for 2 months… Something to think about for 2011.

 

Fine wine prices

Starting in July and accelerating in August, most prices have come down. As measured by the Liv-ex 100 index, prices have decreased by about 6% in July and August. First growths, as measured by the Liv-ex Investables index, have done slightly worse, printing a fall of 7%. This was mainly caused by Lafite (see Liv-ex article), another major contributor being Parker’s downgrading of 2008.

 

First Growths drop in price in summer of 2011

 

What has caused this drop in prices? In our humble opinion, 3 main reasons.

Firstly, it seemed a natural moment for people to cash in on the profits they made over the last years. Well before the Primeur campaign, there was already lots of talk about price rises being unsustainable. It’s quite natural that people want to cash in on very handsome profits as they sense that the market might have reached a peak. Consequently, a lot of stock came onto the market.

Secondly, this boost in supply coincided with the holiday season and, importantly, the fact that the international fine wine trade was still holding a lot of stock, bought at cheaper prices. In particular the Chinese traders – we believe – held a lot of stock, bought when prices were going up ferociously. Note though this weak demand does not necessarily have anything to do with demand of the final customer (be it drinkers or investors).

Finally, the timing coincided with a general feeling of uncertainty, generated by another looming recession, continued systemic problems in the EU and resulting, massive falls on the financial markets.

 

Fine wine as alternative investment

First of all, we have to see this price drop in perspective. During the same period (July-August), the FTSE has lost 10% of its value, the German DAX even 17%. The financial markets have seen turmoil reminiscent of post Lehmann in 2008, with some very fundamental issues that have so far proven to be impossible to solve adequately. Given that Fine Wine is now, to a significant extent, an investment vehicle, it’s actually a remarkable resilient performance. From first hand experience, it’s clear that a lot of money is being swapped out of bonds and shares, into alternative investments like Fine Wine.

Secondly, no market can keep going up. If it would, there would be the mother of all corrections at some point. It is actually very healthy that prices have come off a bit. It allows for a period of consolidation, reflection and normalization. Which ultimately avoids boom/bust scenario’s.

As for demand of the final customer, September sees more activity again. UK investors are once again keen to invest in wine. Our customers in Asia are definitely back to buying, albeit more selectively than early in the year. We don’t see any indication that there could be a fundamental shift in the total level of demand, which – if true – will keep in force the age old adagium that demand outstrips supply.

 

Movers

Stock picking is very important and even more so now that there's a distinct gap in performance between several "classes" of wine. At the moment, there is a trend towards super seconds and "flying fifths" as well as cheaper Grand Cru Classees. It’s no longer anything 1st Growth and their 2nd wines. 

Super Seconds performance

 

As predicted on our blog a few months ago, customers are more aware of value for money. Although, at the same time, the truly iconic wines and vintages keep on doing well (as always). 

At the same time, investment money is still flowing in. Wine investment funds and, to a slightly lesser extent, investment brokers make sure their portfolio’s are constituted of at least 50% 1st Growths, in some cases even 100%.  These companies need to buy stock, there’s only limited supply, so we expect the current fall in 1st Growth prices to be reversed in the very near future.

On a final note, we do see growing demand from Asia for super Italians, as well as for Burgundy and indeed some New World regions. As this fabulous part of the world gets more acquainted with fine wine, and as prices of their first choice (often most iconic) wines go up and up, it’s natural and healthy that the eye is being cast on other wine regions that make great wine.

 

Our Picks

Not everything has come down in price. Some wines are actually up (Lynch Bages, Cos Estournel, Montrose, Pontet Canet). La Mission Haut Brion has had an incredible run. There's a lot of coverage on the performance of the "super seconds" and "flying fifths" as well as some of the cheaper GCC. The common factor with these wines and the reason behind their succes is that they are all well known brands, that they have made stunning wines in 2009 and 2010 as well as in some older vintages, and that their prices do not (yet) reflect the quality. We'd be very happy to advise on them, so if that strikes a cord, do get in touch.

Worth an extra mention is that Robert Parker has recently conducted an extensive vertical tasting of Lynch Bages, spanning 1981 – 2010, re-rating the wines accordingly. The market has already reacted, but it's likely that some vintages of what's arguably the strongest brand behind the 1st Growths will continue to do very well. We will cover this in our next blog post.

Lynch Bages labellabel Cos Estournel

Finallly, something else to take notice of, is the "Magical 20" as selected by, again, Robert Parker. On November 8, he will conduct a tasting of "estates that produce wines of "first growth quality" although technically not first growths...and because of that are under-valued and very smart acquisitions". This might well have some effect on prices. Here's his list:

1. Ch. Cos D'Estournel,
2. Ch. Pontet Canet,
3. Ch. Pichon Lalande,
4. Ch. Leoville Poyferre,
5. Ch. Leoville Las Cases,
6. Ch. Palmer,
7. Ch. Malescot St.Exupéry,
8. Ch. Pape Clement,
9. Ch. Haut Bailly,
10. Ch. Angelus,
11. Ch. Trotanoy,
12. Ch. La Conseillante,
13. Ch. Pichon Baron,
14. Ch. Lynch-Bages,
15. Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte,
16. Ch. La Fleur-Petrus,
17. Ch. Clos Fourtet,
18. Ch. Rauzan-Ségla,
19. Ch. Brane-Cantenac,
20. Ch. Le Gay

So, enough reason to expect this trend for value to continue. Go for well known, non 1st Growth names with high scores. And don’t forget to stock up on 1st Growths before they go back up again.

 

 

 

 

 

 Categories: InvestmentChinaBordeauxEn primeur

5 September 2011The 2010 primeur campaign and China

Mark Schuringa

by Mark Schuringa

We found this interesting article on Wine Spectator: "Did China really save Bordeaux?" It gives some further insight into the success or lack thereof of the 2010 Bordeaux En Primeur campaign, and the role of Chinese /HK buyers:

 

Throughout this summer's sales campaign for 2010 Bordeaux futures, as châteaus released their wines at record prices and a number of loyal customers in America decided to pass, most analysts believed China would make up the difference. Thirst for high-end Bordeaux among China's wealthy has been growing for five years. This was supposed to be the year China came through for Bordeaux, leading to one of the most lucrative futures campaigns ever. If only it were that simple.

“We had a really good campaign,” said Jean-Pierre Rousseau, managing director of the négociant Diva. "We did as well as last year [value-wise]. But overall, we sold much less wine—fewer brands and less volume of each brand. And we also kept less wine than last year."

Several sources told Wine Spectator that yes, this was the most profitable futures campaign ever and China deserves a large amount of the credit. But the campaign was not the blockbuster many had hoped it would be.

Bordeaux’s top producers released the 2010 vintage at record prices, but the châteaus’ pricing strategy backfired in several ways. Merchants said that while some top names sold easily, other past bestsellers were not in demand. To move the wines, négociants would only give clients the top wines if they also took the others. Clients refused to hold onto “grossly overpriced” wine, and there was widespread discounting to quickly move the “toxic” brands out the door.

As for China, many châteaus priced themselves out of America and Europe and failed to attract the Chinese. “It would be wrong to say that Chinese customers have jumped at buying everything. That is not true,” said négociant Philippe Laqueche, general manager of Yvon Mau, whose 2010 campaign profits topped the 2009 campaign. “I think the campaign showed the strength of brands.” Pontet-Canet, Pichon-Baron, Beychevelle and Grand-Puy-Lacoste flew out the door. Smith-Haut-Lafitte, Rauzan-Ségla and Figeac, not so much, according to leading merchants in London and Hong Kong.

According to one broker’s report, 365 wines were released as futures during the 2010 campaign, with 89 percent of the allocated cases finding buyers. That’s the same clearance rate as the 2009 campaign, but fewer wines—403 wines sold during ‘09—and a far cry from the 93 percent clearance rate on 436 wines sold during the 2005 campaign.

Some merchants did well. ASC Greater China, a leading fine wine importer with 23 offices in China, increased its purchases but still only took a fraction of the offer. “We bought about 70 labels, of which 30 to 40 were for China and the rest were for Hong Kong,” said Don St. Pierre, Jr., CEO of ASC. “In total we purchased 90 percent more by value than we did last year and our total quantity was up by at least 70 percent. We took all the normal allocations and tried to get more allocations for the key wines that have demand and recognition in China.”

Demand for those key wines is fierce, and prices aren’t likely to come down unless the Chinese suddenly stop giving wine to business partners and high-ranking government officials. “The wine used for these purposes has to be famous and well-known in China [such as Lafite Rothschild]. Otherwise the gift giver or host may lose face,” explained Hong Kong businessman George Tong, whose own 2010 shopping list included the first-growths, second-growths, Le Pin and Pétrus. “If someone presents a bottle of Penfolds Grange or Harlan Estate as a gift or hosts a dinner serving them, he will lose face. They are very fine wines, but few people in China know them.”

But ongoing Chinese demand for other wines is less certain, particularly since China's nouveau riche were forced to take wines they didn’t particularly want in order to get their hands on the Lafite and other must-have gift items.

Nor did Chinese companies appreciate the disorganized tempo of the campaign—snail-paced at first, then frantic at the end, with 35 estates releasing in a single day. Pricing and tempo left private investors, a growing segment in China, disenchanted. “If prices drop later, everybody will be upset,” said Bandy Choi, a Macau and Hong Kong retailer who provides wine investment training to Bank of China executives.

Speculators are also muddying the waters. “We see quite a few wines that are not selling so well yet in China, but because of demand in Hong Kong the perception is they are very popular in China,” said St. Pierre. “We think most of the speculation is coming from brokers in Hong Kong and the U.K., betting on the next big thing. But since none of these companies have much of a presence in China, they are really very far away from reality.”

Aside from the seasoned importers with strong distribution networks like ASC and Aussino, most of the Chinese buyers, many of whom are large corporations who would just as happily import scrap leather, are worried about the next step: turning a profit. “They bought in '09 and haven’t seen any profit and now with 2010 they question if they will see profit again, so they are right to be cautious,” said Doug Rumsam, managing director of Bordeaux Index (HK). “Time will tell as to how these corporations offload these wines and the success of their long-term strategy.”

At its essence, the futures game is one of opportunism, nowhere more so than China. “If the Chinese cannot make big money in the primeur business, they will quit,” said Laqueche. That is particularly worrisome, because a large amount of Bordeaux’s grand cru classé now goes to China and Hong Kong. “The new concern over the long term is the geopolitical balance of wine,” said Laqueche. “Shifting from loyal customers to new customers—that’s an upside-down way of thinking. Perhaps it’s a historic move but it’s a dangerous one. We need to maintain traditional markets.”

Some négociants hope that Americans will begin buying petit châteaus priced between $15 to $35. But those wines aren't well-known in the U.S. “There really is not much of a petit [château] market,” said James Gunter, senior vice president at Glazer's, a major U.S. distributor. “Négociants want to sell them, but do nothing to promote them or help sell them and build in the marketplace. Estate owners really don’t get marketing and promotion in the U.S.”

Which means Bordeaux may be putting all its eggs in China's basket before it truly knows—or understands—the Chinese market.

Unquote. Now that the holiday season is finally over, we will shortly give our take on the campaign as well as the current market. Watch this space.

 

 Categories: InvestmentChinaBordeauxEn primeur

6 June 2011Is there anybody out there?

Mark Schuringa

by Mark Schuringa

I find it slightly bizar that the whole wine trade is occupied with Bordeaux En Primeur during nearly 3 months. The tastings were done in April and the last of the reviews (Parker) were released at the end of April. Yet, a month and a half  later, we’re all still waiting for the campaign to get serious. Frustration in the trade mounts and customer interest is waning. An esteemed fellow trader dubbed the campaign “operation Escargot”. And rightly so. Can we please please get on with it?

Some thought Chateaux were waiting for the Latour auction in Hong Kong.That auction has happened but still no sign of live from Bordeaux. Perhaps the reason for the wait is hope that the euro will crash? If so, the gamble didn’t work: over the past 2 weeks, the single currency has only got significantly stronger against the dollar and sterling.

Operation Escargot

There are still roughly 200 wines to be released. With 9 working days left until Vinexpo (starting June 19th), it’s highly unlikely the big guns will release in the next 2 weeks. We were hoping that today would finally see some bigger releases but no: today is a bank holiday in China and Hong Kong.

Andrew Jefford posted an article on decanter.com last week, Bordeaux 2010 – The Titanic campaign, which he starts by saying “…I’m thinking of a magnificent vintage of unsinkable quality leaving port, buoyed by a nation’s pride – and heading for a rendez-vous with a very large iceberg”. According to Jane Anson, the Bordeaux based journalist, this article has received a lot of attention in Bordeaux.

Jefford mentions that, according to Farr Vintners, “demand is about 20% of what it was last year”. Not all agree and speaking to Bordeaux Negociants, I found it very much depends on the wine. Some have done really well – notably Beychevelle but also Cantemerle who got their timing spot on. Everybody seems to agree though that prices are being pushed to the limit and arguably over the limit of what customers can and will stomach. Very few chateaux so far have released below their 09 prices and fears mount that “without significantly lowered prices, “the whole process will stutter and stall”.

Mind you, the UK trade has always been very vocal during the en primeur campaign, pushing for speed and lower prices. Fact of the matter is though, we all want to sell wine and to do so, there has to be some momentum. Which there isn’t at the moment. Fingers crossed some brave Chateau owner with a big reputation will release tomorrow, at -10% on 2009 prices- and will resuscitate the near comatose patient.

 Categories: BordeauxEn primeur

19 May 2011Bordeaux 2010 offers fantastic value for money

James Swann

by James Swann

The quality of Bordeaux 2010, across the region, is very high.  A raft of lesser known Cru Bourgeois and Petit Chateaux have produced beautiful wines, at accessible prices. Wines that have something to say about the place in which they are grown. As money chases the big guns, such chateaux have been widely hailed as offering some of the best value to be found in the fine wine market.

‘Nearly 100 wines are reviewed below, few of them likely to be fought over en primeur. You may wonder therefore why I am even bothering to publish such detailed notes. The reason is that from the point of view of us consumers, many of these wines are likely to represent some of Bordeaux's finest value in the 2010 vintage.  And from the point of view of the producers, many of them have made such progress and taken such expensive steps to improve quality, that I think these wines deserve as much publicity as they can get. The 2010 vintage with its just-ripe fruit, high alcohol, fresh acidity and high tannic charge seems particularly eloquent throughout the Médoc.’ Jancis Robinson MW

 

A classic vintage? 

In our tastings and reviews a number of chateaux stood out for their elegant cassis perfume, freshness and attractive cedar wood tannins, exceptionally ripe in historical terms yes, but nonetheless reminiscent of the best vintages of classic claret.

Bordeaux expert Stephen Spurrier compares vintages:

‘As with great vintages, which 2010 undoubtedly is, comparisons are made with previous years and at this level of quality, there are few contenders. Only 2005, and to a lesser extent 2000, were mentioned from the past decade. 1998 was referred to as a benchmark on the Right Bank, 1996 and 1995 mentioned in passing on the Left, 1990 certainly, 1986 for the Médocs, 1970 (the first vintage when many of the classed growths made a profit, following the washouts of 1963, 1965 and 1968 and the under-ripe 1967 and 1969) and, for those with longer memories, 1949, 1945 and 1929.’

‘So, not just in my opinion’, he continues, ‘2010 is looking like THE greatest Bordeaux vintage, so far, and, contrary to expectations, not tiring to taste.’
 

So what should we be drinking?

Let's focus on that for a change, drinking. Honest, delicious Bordeaux without breaking the bank. Take your pick because 2010 has produced lots of wines that fit into that category. The Médoc is certainly the most consistent overall. However, prepared to hand-pick, the experience of quality-conscious Right Bank growers’ shines through in many a chateaux with the best ones having succeeded in the delicate interplay of picking times and extraction.  Such chateaux are likely to provide the most enjoyable – and affordable – drinking in the short and medium term.

Here is a sample of our favourites, watch this space for prices. The Chateaux that have already released have done so at reasonable prices, similar to 2009 whilst 2010 in our opinion provides better value at this level, Don't forget to request your allocation in advance, to avoid disappointment.

 

Haut Medoc RP JR
Beaumont    16.5
Cantemerle 91-93 16
Petit Bocq   16
Capbern Gasqueton 87-89 16.5
Belgrave 90-93 16.5
Bernadotte 87-89 17
Belle – Vue 87-89 17
Cambon La Pelouse 89-92 16
Camensac 89-91 15.5
La Lagune 93-96 16.5
d'Aurilhac 88-90 16
     
Medoc    
d'Escurac 86-88 15.5
Greysac 87-88 16
Caronne Ste Gemme   16.5
Goulee 90-92 16.5
La Tour de By   16.5
Labegorce 89-90 16.5
Ferriere 85-87 16.5
Tour St Bonnet 87-88 16
     
Haut-Medoc Cru Bourgois      
Sociando Mallet 91-93 16.5
De Pez 90-92 17
Du Boscq 86-88 16.5
Le Crock 90-92 16.5
Les Ormes de Pez 87-90 17
Senejac 87-90 16
Poujeaux 90-92 16.5
Chasse-Spleen 88-90 16
     
Medoc Cru Bourgois    
Potensac 87-89 16
Labadie   16
Labat   16.5
     
Pessac-Léognan    
de Fieuzal 90-92 17
Haut Bergey 92-94 16
     
Premieres Cotes de Bordeaux    
Reynon 87-88 16
     
Fronsac    
Villars 90-92 15.5
     
St Emilion    
Fonbel 85-87 16
La Dominique 92-94 17.5
Teyssier 89-91 16.5
Bellevue 92-94 15.5
     

 

Apart from requesting your allocation in advance, one of the best ways to stay abreast of releases is to follow us on Twitter. It's the quickest way to see what's being released and at what price. Not just by following us, do check out other "Twitterati" as well.

By James Swann

 Categories: BordeauxEn primeur

4 May 2011Bordeaux en primeur 2010: the verdict

by Gavin Quinney

Guest blog by Gavin Quinney (@GavinQuinney)

This report was also posted on the Liv-ex blog. Gavin has kindly allowed us to post this follow up on his excellent report Bordeaux en primeur 2010: the wines and previously Bordeaux en primeur 2010: the weather. Gavin is a local winegrower in Bordeaux. He has been writing the annual Bordeaux "en primeur report" for Harpers Wine & Spirit magazine. Gavin has also tasted all the top wines from Bordeaux en primeur for 10 years and has been following these up in bottle. Do check out his blog for lots of excellent, factual information. 

There was something different in the air this year, and it wasn’t just the constant tweeting of what the 2010s tasted like.
 
En primeur attendances were higher than ever at the top estates, according to Paul Pontallier of Chateau Margaux. Much in evidence there, and at all the Firsts, were the Chinese translations of the brochures, to add to the long-standing piles of English and French versions. Based on visits to the leading properties the week after the UGCs, these were still being snapped up by Bordeaux’s new best friends.

Perhaps that’s what’s changed. Opinions about many of the great wines no longer matter. For the top chateaux, even huge Parker points or double asterisks won’t be required to sell the iconic brands and for most of us, some of the tastings were academic.

A pity, because the First Growths made belters this year, with all four Médoc Firsts coming close to perfection. What is unusual is the varying levels of alcohol between these four Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated wines: Lafite and Margaux at 13.5%, Mouton at 14% and Latour at 14.5%. Note that Cabernet Sauvignon comes in at lower potential alcohol than Merlot, so it’s no wonder that second and third wines for many estates, with higher percentages of Merlot, pack quite a punch. Chateau Margaux is typical in this respect (13.5%, 14% and 14.5%). Refreshing acidity – much touted by all the chateaux – provides the balance.

July-aug-2010 (2)

St-Julien and Pauillac: strong performances

Moving on, St-Julien and Pauillac were incredibly strong across the board. The Cabernet Sauvignons of the top appellations of the Médoc – for me, the best that Bordeaux has to offer in 2010 in any volume – are ‘über-classic’. The Bordelais prefer to use words like elegance, balance and freshness but I’m not sure that these words adequately convey the feeling of power that these wines have. And be prepared to be patient.

The two great spots of Pauillac and St-Julien have their fair share of ‘Parker hopefuls’ – those estates looking for an outstanding good score to maintain or improve their standing amongst their peers. If the prices are not pushed too far, these great 2010s will sell very easily. Pichon Longueville Baron (with arguably their best wine to date), Leoville Las Cases and Leoville Poyferre just edged it for me amongst the Super Seconds, with Pontet Canet once again right up there.

 

Pontet Canet

And who wouldn’t want a cellar full of St-Juliens like Gruaud Larose, St-Pierre and Langoa Barton, the latter with much less Merlot than usual. A lot of Merlot on both banks – especially on older vines – suffered from coulure and millerandage, or ‘shatter’ and poor fruit set. This reduced the crop, as did the small berry size of all the grapes. But what the Merlot lacked in quantity (and sometimes quality), the Cabernet Sauvignon made up for in quality. We can pray that it doesn’t come at too high a price.

Rest of the Left

St-Estephe has to be viewed on a case-by-case basis. I might have caught Cos on a slightly off day, while Calon Segur showed a lovely wine, despite losing some of the crop to a localised hail storm in May: almost half the number of bottles from 2009 there. Nearby, Montrose, with 20 additional hectares bought from Phelan Segur, was untouched: 50% more bottles of the (brilliant) Grand Vin in 2010. Will it be cheaper than the 100 pointer in waiting, the 2009?

The appellation of Margaux, beyond the very top wines, is a source of values for drinking: 20 chateaux produced 90+ point wines in my book. Issan is right back on form after hail struck in 2008 and 2009, and I’m looking for value from the likes of du Tertre, Ferriere and Labegorce – the latter two not being RP favourites.

Nearby, there are some values from Moulis, Listrac and the southern end of the Haut-Médoc. The Haut-Médoc and the Médoc to the north of St-Estephe produced some very good wines – however, I don’t think it’s a case of fill yer boots with any old Cru Bourgeois. Amongst the winners are rather too many wines with a lack of ripeness and fairly coarse tannins.

South of Bordeaux, the evenly mixed Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot blends of Pessac-Léognan will provide sumptuous drinking. While the top chateaux – Haut-Brion, La Mission, Haut Bailly and Smith Haut Lafitte – made glorious wines, prices haven’t caught up yet for estates on the up like de Fieuzal and Haut-Bergey.

It’s a super vintage for the dry whites of Pessac-Léognan and the Graves, and I’m probably alone in preferring 2010 Sauternes and Barsac to 2009, with the possible exception of Yquem. But that’s another story.

On the Right Bank

It may be small but all eyes are usually on Pomerol. That little bit of rain at key moments in September really helped these precocious vineyards, which once again turned in some wonderful wines. Jacques Thienpont prefers 2010 Le Pin to his 2009 (like his brilliant 2001 to 2000) but I wouldn’t say that this was true across the board here. Mixed flowering in the Merlot, hydric stress and small berries certainly had an impact on the character of the wines, as well as the yields (just 31hl/ha at L’Evangile, compared to 38hl/ha average). Petrus, L’Evangile, L’Eglise Clinet, Vieux Chateau Certan, Clinet, Hosanna – no surprises, just not enough wine.

I tasted scores of St-Emilions and scored many of them very highly. But it was tough going, with many having rigorous tannic frames and a sense that the drought conditions contributed to the dryness of the wines. Still, plenty of super values to be had for those who choose well, with numerous 90+ pointers. Choose carefully: it’s a big place but not one for the faint hearted, with many super-concentrated wines topping 15.5% alcohol. At the top level, Clos Fourtet, Pavie Macquin and Beausejour Duffau impressed again. The Cabernet Franc excelled, not least at Cheval Blanc and Ausone, of course.

Bring on the campaign. And if you want to pick up a relative bargain sooner, take a look at some 2008s, right now.  

 

 

 Categories: InvestmentBordeauxEn primeur

29 April 2011Bordeaux en primeur 2010: what and how to buy

Mark Schuringa

by Mark Schuringa


James Swann

and James Swann

 The Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur campaign has finally started. The tastings are done and reviews have been coming out thick and fast. The first wines have been released and once Robert Parker will release his scores (expected on the 3rd of May), we will see Chateaux step up the pace of releases.

 

Is it a good vintage?

‘I find it hard to imagine that I will ever again encounter such successful consecutive vintages in Bordeaux as 2009 and the infant 2010s I have just been tasting’ - Jancis Robinson MW, in her weekly slot for the Financial Times. 

Meanwhile, Decanter Consultant Editor, Stephen Spurrier and Right Bank colleague, James Lawther MW, who tasted the Medoc and Graves together, coincide, with Spurrier’s experience shining through; ‘As with great vintages, which 2010 undoubtedly is, comparisons are made with previous years and at this level of quality, there are few contenders. Only 2005, and to a lesser extent 2000, were mentioned from the past decade. 1998 was referred to as a benchmark on the Right Bank, 1996 and 1995 mentioned in passing on the Left, 1990 certainly, 1986 for the Médocs, 1970 (the first vintage when many of the classed growths made a profit, following the washouts of 1963, 1965 and 1968 and the under-ripe 1967 and 1969) and, for those with longer memories, 1949, 1945 and 1929.’

‘So, not just in my opinion’, he continues, ‘2010 is looking like THE greatest Bordeaux vintage, so far, and, contrary to expectations, not tiring to taste.’

In the meantime, a tweet from wine critic Robert Parker, gave the final touches; “2010 is another top vintage for the Bordelaise region – was Bob Dylan singing about them in the mid 60s ("With God on our side").

cellars of lafite.jpg

 

Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur

Ditton Wine Traders will be offering 2010 Bordeaux En Primeur. Hard to believe after the great 2009, but we (and more importantly, all of the influential critics) think it’s a fantastic vintage. It offers real good value for money for the “lesser” wines. Wines that you can buy for between £10 and £20 a bottle and offer quality that surpasses most recent and older vintages.

There is a number of chateaux in the classed growth category, below 1st Growth, that have surpassed themselves. According to some of the reviews, these chateaux have made wines that are far superior to 2009 and possibly the best they ever made. Watch this space to find out which wines I’m referring to. Prices will be higher, in some cases quite a lot higher than 2009, but given the quality, they will likely sell very fast.
 

We also think Bordeaux 2010 offers opportunities for investment, although pricing will be even more important than in 2009. In that respect, we feel 2010 en primeur can be an excellent buy if you can get hold of it at first or second “tranche” and you buy the right names. Some of the chateaux have made wines of staggering quality. Think Cheval Blanc 1990, Haut Brion 1989 – wines that surpass the 100 points category. However, if you can’t get in early on, then there are alternative strategies that might serve you better.

Therefore, we will be covering the campaign right from the beginning until the very end. From easy, affordable and delicious drinking wines to top flight, modern classics with a matching price tag. We will send out offers by email – sign up for them here – and will post analyses on the blog. We will also keep you up to date on En Primeur news in our news section.
 
 

So which wines should you buy?

There are excellent wines to be found here at every level. The best terroirs have dealt remarkably well with the draught conditions as soils retained water deep-down. Second wines are of vastly superior quality with leading chateaux continuing their re-definition of this style as a noble wine in its own right.

At entry level and mid-priced range, a raft of lesser known chateaux has produced wines of great, even outstanding quality. Prices overall will like be slightly higher than 2009, yet quality is higher.  Cru Bourgeois and Petit Chateaux have produced fine claret that have something to say about the place in which they are grown and will quite possibly provide the most enjoyable – and affordable – drinking in the short and medium term.

No one commune stands out, however, quality is not blanket-wide and there are some heavy-handed wines to be found in both the Left and Right Banks, with the Right Bank being the less consistent of the two.  As with 2009, harvest dates for comparable terroirs varied considerably from chateau to chateau, thus, the style being determined largely by choice rather than prevailing conditions.  2010, above all is a vintage where under-extraction not over-extraction is the order of the day.

Full list of 2010 En Primeur wines (populated on release of those wines we can recommend)

cellars of cos estournel.jpg

 

Why buy from us? Two very good reasons. Firstly, we are better priced than all of the big, well known merchants. Secondly, we have allocations to give to you. We are growing quickly and as such, our allocations from Bordeaux grow as well. Even though overall there will be less available from the chateaux. We are primarily wholesalers – dealing with the majority of the UK wine trade. As such, we don’t have a database of thousands of private customers. Therefore, we might well be able to offer you an allocation of the sought after wines – an allocation that you can then keep throughout the years. A fantastic opportunity that you won’t easily find with other fine wine traders.

 

Is it safe? Apart from price and availability, this is the most important aspect in selecting your En Primeur merchant. Make sure you buy from a reputable company and do your homework. Ditton Wine Traders only buy from very well known, reputable Negociants. We sell to the majority of the trade in London, including En Primeur, and have never failed to deliver. We are middle sized, financially sound fine wine traders that have been trading since 2004. Ask for references, they will confirm that buying En Primeur from us is safe. And if you can rest assured that your order will be delivered to you, why pay more than necessary?

 

How to buy? Please send your wish list to mark@dittonwinetraders.co.uk. It helps us secure what you want and you will be the first we offer to. Otherwise, subscribe to our blog and email offers so we can help you to select and purchase. Or just go to the Full list of 2010 En Primeur wines.

 

Storage? We advise to have your wine professionally stored, in a bonded warehouse, unless you intend to drink them in the short term. There are various options. It is quite straightforward to open up your own account in a bonded warehouse. See here for some that we work with and can recommend. Rates do vary so shop around. Alternatively, we are happy to assist you with your own, personal account at London City Bond. We can offer trade rates which are basically half of what you would pay for a private account. Please get in touch if you would like to know more.

Our en primeur prices include delivery from France, insurance and warehouse receiving charges. They are under bond prices, excluding duty and VAT which will be payable only if wines are later taken out of bond. There are NO storage charges for en primeur wines. Storage charges will be charged only on wines that have physically arrived in the spring of 2013. We will contact all our customers on arrival of wines in the UK to obtain storage or delivery instructions.

If you think you might buy during the campaign, do sign up for our email offers – it’s the best way to closely follow the campaign, spot the best deals and secure an allocation. Don’t forget to follow our blog and news. You can of course also phone us:

020 833 99 112.
 
By Mark Schuringa and James Swann

 Categories: InvestmentBordeauxEn primeur

12 April 2011Bordeaux en primeur 2010 interim report

James Swann

by James Swann


Mark Schuringa

and Mark Schuringa

Bordeaux 2010, as with Bordeaux 2009 before it, is a vintage born out of extremity. In opposition to the no less extreme but regular cycle of 2009, 2010 is the fruit of exceptional meteorological conditions that tested the vine to its limits. 2010 is an extreme vintage which, in this instance, went the right way.

2010 as compared to 2009

Both 2009 and 2010 are big vintages; powerful, concentrated, of high alcohol and weight. 2009 are by comparison, opulent, softer wines that saw gradual concentration over a perfect ripening season followed by a perfect autumn.

2010 meanwhile are potent wines born of irregular and altogether more aggressive conditions, in particular drought and cooler August-September minimum temperatures followed by a cooler autumn leading to enhanced aroma, pigmentation and acidity. Drought-induced grape shrinkage combined to further exaggerate this acidity, being, along with tannic structure, the vintage’s most arresting feature.

As with 2009, harvest dates for comparable terroirs varied considerably from chateau to chateau, with the style being determined largely by choice rather than prevailing conditions.

2010, above all is a vintage where under-extraction not over-extraction is the order of the day, so as not to overplay robust tannins. High sugars once again have produced wines comparatively high in alcohol – broadly 13-14% for the Left Bank and 14-15% for the Right Bank – in the main a little less than 2009 although sometimes, in particular, the Right Bank and Pessac-Léognan, more so.

Left bank

There are excellent wines to be found here at every level, the best terroirs have dealt remarkably well with the draught conditions as soils retained water deep-down from the unusually heavy rains of the previous winter (which, although with no way of telling at the time, turned out to be the saviour of the vintage).

Second wines are of notable quality as leading chateaux continue their re-definition of this style as a noble wine in its own right.

No one commune stands out, however, quality is not blanket-wide and there are some over-extracted wines to be found. 

In 2010, it is a question of individual chateau over its village or district.

Graves

Despite in some instances record alcohol levels, experts (Spurrier, Laws, Decanter et al) believe these to be quite possibly the wines of the vintage. Cabernet Sauvignon and Franc have retained very good acidity levels at full ripeness, whereas the white wines are excellent and of an extremely high standard.

Right bank

Less consistent overall, where some chateaux have struggled to contain alcohol levels or produced over-extracted wines. Nonetheless, if one is prepared to hand-pick, there exists a wide-ranging offer of elegant and well-crafted wines to be found.

Sweet whites

A fine vintage for Sauternes and Barsac and in contrast to the other communes and districts an abundant yield. Crisp aromatic power is the hallmark of this vintage.

Trade

Some 5,000 members of the international wine trade representing close to 70 different countries have arrived to Bordeaux for the annual week of tasting barrel samples. Notably, the US trade is in attendance, after largely staying away in 2009. There are also reports that Asian buyers, in particular China but also Japan, have yet increased their interest again. Further, perhaps as a portent to future trends, KBR School of Wine, an Indian wine educator, is also taking part.

The market and pricing

By consensus, prices for the 2010 vintage are expected to be similar to slightly higher as compared to 2009.

A series of week fronts led to many flowers becoming infertile (coulure) whilst bunches that at first appeared successful ceased to develop and aborted (millerandage) with early-ripening Merlot, in particular effected. Moreover, green harvesting, begun on the assumption of what appeared to be a full crop and significant weight loss during the drought conditions led to an ever-lower yield. Whereas full bunches have been reported among petit chateaux, top growers with typically stringent selection processes, in the Merlot-dominated Right Bank above all, report a drop of up to 30% on 2009.

Chateaux and Negociants are well-capitalised after record prices for a string of high-quality high-scoring recent vintages and soaring international demand, notably from new markets in Asia. There is therefore no immediate financial pressure to lower prices.   

The re-entry, albeit a little more modestly by historical standards, of US merchants, the ever-stronger presence of Asian buyers and continuous strong demand from UK investors all point to demand being similar to 2009. Having said that, there is certainly less hype amongst private customers when compared to this time last year.

Finally, in line with recent performance, we may see certain chateaux out-perform their critic ratings against the backdrop of brand-led demand from China. But, there is some way to go yet, and we shall maintain our analysis of this in the coming days and weeks as the all-important ratings begin to emerge in full. Particularly from Robert Parker, who will release his scores at the end of this month. Interestingly, he has twittered that 2010 is a great vintage but not greater than 2005 or 2009.

On a final note, when we say prices are expected to be similar or slightly higher than 2009, that is measured in euro’s. For buyers who pay in sterling that’s bad news as sterling has dropped 6% against the euro since this time last year.

By James Swann and Mark Schuringa

 Categories: InvestmentBordeauxEn primeur

30 March 2011Back vintages to outperform en primeur 2010?

The record-priced Bordeaux 2009 vintage currently trades at -2% off its London release price and so far has failed to produce growth in accordance to expectations. We look into alternative fine wine investment strategies that – albeit with hindsight –  would have netted a better return.

Bordeaux 2010 would seem set to bring another high-quality and highly priced vintage. But will this make for a good wine investment? If 2009 is anything to go by, possibly not. But if – and it's a big if – that’s the case, 2010 will likely open the door to other, more lucrative strategies to pursue.

So what and how to buy?

On current trends, exceptionally high prices for top-performing vintages (2005, 2008, 2009) become the new price ceiling by which prior vintages are measured.

In this context, the emphasis on brand over vintage, and increasingly brand over score together with the apparent search for value would look set to continue. If that’s the case, lesser scoring vintages and chateaux outperform their higher-rated equivalents as they move towards the new price ceiling. Moreover, some studies suggest that buying into recent top performing chateaux can outperform the market over the short-term, a so-called momentum approach. We have commented on these phenomena here in the blog before.

We have compiled a list of 10 wines from 2006, 2007 and 2008 that fit into the categories “brand over vintage and score” and/or have been on the move and thereby would be candidates for the “momentum-based approach”. We have compared prices from June 2010 with the current market prices and calculated the % increase in price:

 

Wine
%
Lynch Bages
85%
Beychevelle
97%
Pontet-Canet
55%
Pichon Lalande
70%
Cos d'Estournel
66%
Haut-Brion
80%
Mouton Rothschild
58%
Margaux
52%
Latour
74%
La Mission Haut-Brion
39%
Average
68%

Source: www.wine-searcher.com and Liv-ex.

Of course, with hindsight it's easy to come up with a list of outperforming wines. However, chances are that anybody who, at the time, wanted to pursue a strategy of "hot names in back vintages" would have come up with a similar list Moreover, the returns do speak for themselves. Measured over the past year, this strategy would have been far superior to buying 2009 Bordeaux en primeur.
 
Could you repeat this with the 2010 vintage coming up? Who knows. A lot of wines and vintages have already closed a substantial part of the gap to their more expensive peers, be it vintages or other brands. What will – even more so than in 2009 – be extremely important is at what point in the campaign you are able to buy. If you get the top wines at 1st or 2nd tranche, you stand a good chance of doing well. If you need to buy at the "open market" prices, we would like to point out that – at least in the short run – history might repeat itself. 

Some remarks in general – a new investment order?

Where will prices go and what may be the implications for the wider market?

As luxury goods reach new audiences with different values, familiar dynamics begin to change. A buy and hold strategy may well produce strong returns over the long-term, but how much more effective could your investment be if you were to combine this strategy with trying to catch shorter-term trends, with profits re-invested in similar opportunities.

Furthermore, a new investment order of sorts is emerging within the blue chip (First Growths) segment of the market in the apparent catch-up of the other First Growths with Lafite. All have seen steady price rises as Lafite appears to be treading water at the moment. This is most evident with Haut-Brion, which appears to represent a secular mini-trend as it looks increasing undervalued in comparison to its First Growth peers.

Scores (Parker) will continue to account for major price differentials between vintages and chateaux on aggregate. However, we will likely see the continued emergence of exceptions to this rule, evident among those wines where (Chinese) demand is strongest; representing a differentiation within the classed growths market as some chateaux become less sensitive to (Parker) scores and brand-led demand becomes their chief driver of price.

Risk is higher too; price formation would appear to have a higher correlation with emerging market GDP and industrial production indicators than traditional fine wine supply-side economics, raising the risk of a price shock in the event of a sudden drop in demand in these countries. Major merchants, moreover, may depend on China for as much as 50% of their turnover. En primeur too, increasingly presents irregular prices and diminishing returns for considerably higher risk.

Finally, after a year where almost everything went up, the near future looks set to be more discriminating. It will be more important to pick the right stock at the right time. Seeking advice on your wine investment strategies, always a good idea – will be more important going forward. Make sure you ask your favorite fine wine merchant.

By James Swann and Mark Schuringa
 
 

 Categories: InvestmentBordeauxEn primeur

24 March 2011Buying en primeur reviewed

Is buying en primeur actually a good deal? It certainly can be, but much depends on the vintage, your allocations and on available alternative wine investment strategies.

With what appears set to be another high-priced – high-quality vintage in the ensuing Bordeaux 2010 en primeur campaign, we take a look at the evolving wine investment market. In particular, in the light of the low-priced but high-performing 2008 vintage becoming physical and record release prices for the slower-moving, still at chateaux Bordeaux 2009.

En primeur is the French term for wine sold as a futures offering prior to it being bottled. This advance sale, while long available to the trade, only became popular with wine investors and collectors in the late C20th amid the scramble for a succession of good vintages, a broadly prosperous economic environment and the emergence of vintage reports and ratings from 3rd parties, such as wine writers and (one) wine critics. It has become a – relatively recent – specialty of Bordeaux classed growth chateaux.

The theory is that by buying wine early, the public not only secures sought-after wines, he or she also pays less. This early-release frees up much needed cash-flow for the chateaux, funds they can use to fund the next crop.

However, financial benefit to the wine collector, drinker or investor is by no means invariably the case. We look at some of the phenomena becoming apparent in a string of high-performing recent vintages against the backdrop of a significantly changing China-demand led wine investment market.

So, is buying en primeur actually a good deal?

It all depends. Bordeaux 2009 currently languishes at an average -2% off its record London release price one year ago. However, some of the other vintages – notably the 2008 – have posted much better returns (albeit over a longer time period):

2009
2008
2007
2006
2005
-2%
90%
17%
24%
59%

Source Liv-ex.com

Yet, has anyone ever lost money on a stellar Bordeaux vintage? In the long-term probably not. For the collector/investor holding wine rather than trading it matters. Bordeaux 2005, the last pre-2009 top vintage currently trades at a premium of 59% off its 2007 London release price. Moreover, anyone holding the underrated 2002 would now be looking at a whopping 800% return since release!

In his seminal work, ‘Wine Investment for Portfolio Diversification’ (the Wine Appreciation Guild 2006), finance academic, Mahesh Kumar, concludes there are 3 stages at which wine typically returns a profit; the first 6-18 months after its purchase en primeur; when the wine has matured is more valuable and there is less of it; or, after an event that triggers sudden price appreciation such as the re-rating of a vintage or an increase in scarcity (a favoured strategy among wine funds). For 2009, the first opportunity seems to be lost. 

Timing is of the essence

With buying en primeur, when you buy matters. See below for the evolution of 2009 release prices by tranche as compared to the respective 2008 release prices:

Prior to 14/06
14/06-18/06
21/06-25/06
+44%
+88%
+196%
Source Liv-ex.com

This is extremely important. The above quoted return for 2009 up to now of -2% compares the London release price with the current market price. The London release price is the price at which a wine was first traded on the secondary market. This is not necessarily the price you can get it at if you have a relationship with your merchant.

For example, Lafite 2009 was first sold by the Negociants at €550 per bottle, which at the time equated to roughly £5,500 per case. London release price was £13,500….. Hardly anybody had any at this first price though. The second tranche was around £7,500 and there was some volume of that, but still not nearly enough to even satisfy loyal customers, let alone offer it on the secondary market. 

So, you can vastly improve your return if you can secure an allocation early on. For those who can’t, money invested in 2009 so far might have been put to better use.

Then what to buy if not en primeur?

We are not saying buying en primeur doesn’t make sense. What we are suggesting is that top quality vintages that are highly priced en primeur leave the door open to alternative, potentially more profitable strategies.

One could argue that very high prices for stellar vintages (2005, 2009) will be the new price ceiling against which previous vintages are measured. Should the brand-led/value vintage buying continue apace among a new wine public (China, but possibly also India, Brazil, Russia, Indonesia), then we can expect to see the appreciation of lesser scoring, physically available recent back-vintages and lesser scoring chateaux towards this new ceiling.

Next time we will look at this strategy in more detail.

By James Swann and Mark Schuringa

 Categories: InvestmentEn primeur

19 February 2011Bordeaux en primeur 2010: the wines

Guest blog by Gavin Quinney (@GavinQuinney). 

 

This report was originally posted on the Liv-ex blog. Gavin has kindly allowed us to post this follow up on his excellent report on the Bordeaux 2010 weather. Gavin is a local winegrower in Bordeaux. He has been writing the annual Bordeaux "en primeur report" for Harpers Wine & Spirit magazine. Gavin has also tasted all the top wines from Bordeaux en primeur for 10 years and has been following these up in bottle. Do check out his blog for lots of excellent, factual information.

----

There’s an embarrassment of riches in the best barrel cellars of Bordeaux right now. The relatively inexpensive 2008s are being shipped out (the first tranche offer of 100€ ex-cellars for First Growths in April 2009 seems a long time ago), leaving row upon row of French oak barriques bearing the precious, pre-paid 2009 vintage. And, currently being assembled in the ‘first year’ cellars, there’s another great vintage waiting in line.
 
Time will tell if Lilian Barton Sartorius was right when she said at the start of the harvest, “However well the 2010s turn out, they are going to be cheaper than the 2009s.” At the time I nodded sagely in agreement, but now, following an outstanding harvest and with more names being touted as the next big thing in China, I’m not so sure. Meanwhile, a few wise old heads are keeping shtum about 2010 as they want their wines to do the talking in the spring. Nobody wants to hear about another vintage of the century. At least, not just yet.
 
After concerns that he would be unable to travel following knee surgery, Robert Parker has indicated that he will be coming to taste the new vintage next month. Significantly, his friend Michel Rolland, the renowned consultant oenologist, believes that most estates that he works with have made, er, better wines in 2010 than in 2009. And for those who prefer wines at the other end of the structure spectrum, Denis Dubourdieu quietly agrees – for reds and dry whites anyway.
Margaux harvest 
Chateau Margaux, Harvest 2010
 
I tasted the 2009s again recently at many of the top estates on the Left Bank, and if 2010 is at the same quality level as 2009, it’s a hard act to follow. The 2009s are exuberant, opulent and delicious to taste even now, but what of the other side of the cellar of l’embarras des richesses - the 2010s? The 2010s appear to be more classically Bordeaux-like, but with tremendous power and intensity. I’d call them über-classic, for want of a better expression. The buzz word for the 2009s at this same stage last year was ‘exceptional’ – see my 2009 harvest report. We’ll probably hear a lot more of ‘classic’, ‘intense’, extraordinary’ and ‘balanced’ in reference to 2010.
 
Jean Guillaume Prats of Cos d’Estournel explains: “Speaking for Cos and not for the others in the Medoc, the 2010 is in the same league as the 2009 but in a completely opposite and different style. 2010 is an extraordinary classic Medoc vintage. A year of drought, of course, and the driest in the last ten years, but nothing like 2003 when there was exposure to so much heat. It was a late vintage and rain on the 4th October in the north of the Medoc helped the Cabernet Sauvignon to extraordinary phenolic ripeness. Beautiful weather followed for picking the Cabernet.”
Jean Guillaume Prats, Cos 
Jean Guillaume Prats, Cos
 
Jean René Matignon, the technical director of Pichon Baron, agrees, summing up 2010 as ‘un grand millésime de garde par excellence’. He believes yields are generally around ten per cent lower than in 2009 around Pauillac (i.e. in St-Julien and St-Estephe also), in part due to poor flowering in older Merlot vines, as well as smaller berries with less juice from the near-drought conditions. Lilian Barton told me that they only made four tanks of Merlot, compared to six the previous year, for the same reason. The quality of the Merlot, though, is ‘magnifique’, according to Matignon, whose final blend will be 77 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 23 per cent Merlot – compared to 67 per cent and 33 per cent in 2009. That’s a significant shift, and if that doesn’t suggest a wine for longer ageing, then the near-record levels of tannin, however ripe, certainly do.
 
There will undoubtedly be concerns, as in 2009, over the high levels of alcohol on both banks – especially for the Merlot, so it’s a bigger issue on the Right Bank. What is noticeable, though, is the higher acidity than in 2009, giving the wines freshness and balance. The 2010s are very deeply coloured, which is no surprise given the dry conditions and levels of concentration. (I wouldn’t be surprised if some malolactic fermentations struggle to be complete in time for Parker’s visit.)
 
Steve Blais, who works with Michel Rolland and has clients around the world, believes that 2010 – being a later harvest than 2009 – plays to the strengths of Bordeaux. He works with Malescot St-Exupery in Margaux and many chateaux in Pomerol and St-Emilion.
 
It works best here when there’s a slow, even maturity of the grapes. In theory, not too hot and longer is good, but the problem with later vintages is that we get autumn rain. The weather we had over the harvest in 2010 was almost perfect, so we could wait.
 
“Maybe we’ll see that some estates have terroirs that were just too dry, but many chateaux, like those with clay over limestone, should have made great wines. The 2010s have lower PH (higher acidity), less jammy fruit and incredible freshness. The more samples we taste in the lab, the better I think it is than 2009. Sorry, but it’s true. Don’t forget the vineyards that ripen later either – I have clients in places like Blaye where the wines are tasting extremely good.”
 
This is the clear message from many of the 'lesser' appellations. Yorick Lavaud, who sources the wine for Rothschild's Mouton Cadet brand and manages 1,200 hectares of vines, was adamant that 2010 is a better vintage than 2009, especially for Merlot.
Mouton Rothschild, 13th Oct 2010 
Mouton Rothschild, 13th Oct 2010
 
2010 is also an excellent vintage for dry whites and for Sauternes, so if you’re planning on coming to the April trade tastings, make sure you fit them in to your schedule. On that note, I’d suggest you don’t try to cram too much in, too quickly. There’s a lot to take in, and the wines will be quite demanding.
 
Let’s hope the proprietors aren’t.

 

 Categories: BordeauxEn primeur

16 February 2011Bordeaux en primeur 2010: the weather

Guest blog by Gavin Quinney (@GavinQuinney). 

This report was originally posted on the Liv-ex blog. Gavin has kindly allowed us to post this excellent report on the 2010 weather. Gavin is a local winegrower in Bordeaux. He has been writing the annual Bordeaux "en primeur report" for Harpers Wine & Spirit magazine. Gavin has also tasted all the top wines from Bordeaux en primeur for 10 years and has been following these up in bottle. Do check out his blog for lots of excellent, factual information.

The en primeur tasting week will be the first week of April. It is still a good 3 months away before the campaign really starts going and as such, it may be a tat early to start writing about 2010. On the other hand, media coverage is likely to be hotting up and invariably, there will be a lot of speculation on the quality of the vintage. So that you can form your own opinion on this matter, we wanted to share Gavin's findings. Based on facts, with lots of graphs (I love graphs).

 

As wine merchants and critics make their travel arrangements for the En Primeur barrel tastings in late March and early April, here are some early conclusions that can be drawn about 2010 – with the help of a few weather charts.
 
As a grower in Bordeaux – and being British - the weather is something I keep an eye on. I also visited scores of leading chateaux during the growing season and throughout the harvest.
In summary:
  • 2010 was a very dry year.
  • 2010 was sunny...
  • ...but not too hot.
  • Uneven flowering, lower yields?
  • Top terroirs shine, again.
  • Rain in the nick of time.
  • A later harvest (than 2009 and 2005).
  • Harvest ‘à la carte’.

2010 was a very dry year

Rain_2010

I live 15 miles east of Bordeaux and 15 miles south-west of St-Emilion, between the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Bordeaux is a vast wine region and the weather can vary significantly from one end to the other. It’s fair to say, though, that 2010 was a dry year across all areas. 

Rainfall_2005_2010_LIVEX 
Throughout the growing season, from April to October, we had less than half the rainfall than in 2009 – itself a dry year. 2010 was an exceptionally dry year, and not just at the business end of the season from June through to the harvest. There was less rain in March compared to the average, then very low rainfall in April and May, leaving a shortage of water reserves before the summer had even begun.

 

2010 was sunny...

 Sun_2005_2010_LIVEX 
2010 saw a fairly similar return to 2009 and 2005 from July to September (when the fruit ripens) and the sunshine continued into October, which was when most of the top reds were picked. Note the differences between these great years and other recent vintages – differences which are reflected in the wines.
 

But not too hot

Temp_2005_2010_LIVEX 
There was plenty of sunshine in 2010 but it wasn’t particularly hot which, given the near drought conditions, was a relief. May was much cooler than the 30-year average (14.2ËšC  v 15.4ËšC), June warmer (18.6ËšC v 18.3ËšC), and July warmer still (21.7ËšC v 21ËšC), while August was a shade cooler (20ËšC v 21ËšC), as was September.
 
It’s been said that Bordeaux will become too hot for Merlot and Cabernet with the changing climate. These graphs seem to show that it’s not rising temperatures, but a shortage of rainfall that could be more of a concern for the vast majority of growers that don’t have perfect terroirs.
 

Late start, then uneven flowering

The graphs above tell half the story. To have a better feeling for how the weather affects the vines, some day-to-day tracking can be helpful. March was cold, with much colder soils than normal until the 20th of March, leading to a later budburst than usual in April.
May-june-2010 (2) 
A sunny April, then a hot streak in late May, followed by a cold snap, probably confused the vines. Rain in the first half of June didn’t help at this critical time, so the flowering was mixed. The Merlot, which is more vulnerable to poor fruit set, was inconsistent from one parcel to another, and often from one vine to another – a result of coulure and millerandage. This was evident on both banks. Old timers also said that as there were many larger bunches, the flowering was poor – ‘the bigger the bunches the lower the yield’.
 
Many of the top estates saw lower yields through a combination of poor flowering and uneven fruit set; fewer bunches; green harvesting later on; strict selection; smaller berries; and less juice from the very dry weather. But I saw many vineyards, often in the so-called lesser appellations, positively groaning with bunches, so general claims of low yields might be misleading.
 

Top terroirs shine, again

July-aug-2010 (2) 
After rain in mid-June, it was a dry old time in the vines throughout the summer. By the end of August, there were clear signs of stress in many vineyards through lack of water. Merlot leaves in many parcels from Margaux to Pomerol were wilting, and younger vines suffered.
 
The great terroirs showed extraordinary resilience to the drought conditions by providing just enough sustenance to the vines. Some of the Cabernet Sauvignon on the gravelly knolls at Lafite and Mouton and other top sites in Pauillac, St-Julien and St-Estephe looked extraordinarily healthy – as did Merlot on the best clay-limestone terroirs around St-Emilion and Castillon. The Cabernet Franc at Cheval Blanc and Angélus also looked in perfect shape.
 

Rain in the nick of time

Sept-oct-2010 
Light rain in early September provided welcome moisture (the ‘before and after’ effect on the leaves in vineyards like Le Pin was clear) and further showers around the 24th and the 29th had a positive effect, as did quite heavy rain on the 4th of October. In between, and on into mid-October, it was clear and sunny. 
 
Too much rain, coupled with a later harvest, and there’s a risk of rot. But the weather held and I saw no rot whatsoever on any red grapes until mid-October (and those were mine).
 

A later harvest (than 2009 and 2005)

The later budburst  at the start of the season was reflected in the later harvest dates than 2009 – some four to ten days - despite the very dry, sunny summer. Later and greater don’t normally go hand in hand, but 2010 is an exception.
 

Harvest ‘à la carte’

Pierre Lurton claimed at Yquem on the 28th of September that it was another harvest during which chateaux could pick when they wanted to, or ‘à la carte’. I was somewhat sceptical, given that the red harvest had only just begun. Nine days later, they were cheerily picking Cabernet Franc in bright sunshine at Cheval Blanc in St-Emilion (which he also manages). The week after that, they were leisurely picking Cabernet Sauvignon at Margaux, Lafite and Mouton – again in bright sunshine. Back on the Right Bank, they were still bringing in the Merlot, in lovely condition, at Troplong Mondot on the 15th of October.
 
I have to admit, Monsieur Lurton might just have been right.

 

 

 Categories: BordeauxEn primeur

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