|Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg TBA, C. Von Schubert||2010||Germany||12 x 37.5cl||£3250||1||96 WA|
Almost painfully penetrating in its concentration, the 2010 Maximin Grunhauser Abtsberg Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese highlights fresh lime juice mingled with quince jelly and studded with candied lime rind, crystallized ginger, and white raisin. There is a productive sense of tension here between Eiswein-like nerve and acidity on the one hand and pure, advanced botrytis richness on the other, such as one too seldom encounters among nobly sweet 2010s. Even more than in the corresponding Beerenauslese, a Chartreuse-like sense of herbal and floral essences at distilled strength and with liqueur-like unctuousness plays a striking part in the dense layering of this almost ethereally buoyant elixir. The finish here is like a long, dense, many-stranded and beautifully proportioned braid. Follow its trail for a half century and I doubt that its seductive luster or fascination will have unraveled. Sadly, after vinification in a micro-tank and filtration, only 20 half bottles resulted from foraging for many days across most of the Abtsberg.
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