|Winston Churchill, Pol Roger||2004||Champagne/Sparkling||6 x 75cl||£575||10||94 VM|
The flagship 2004 Brut Sir Winston Churchill is creamy, ample and highly expressive, but it is also a bit more forward than I expected for the vintage. Apricot jam, honey, spice, smoke, brioche and lovely hints of toastiness all add to the wine's considerable appeal, while there is no shortage of density or volume. All that said, the wine's balance is not as fine as I had hoped it would be. Perhaps a bit more time in bottle will do the trick. To be sure, the 2004 Churchill is more advanced than most other tête de cuvées in this vintage.
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